My Solution to the "High Battery Drain" Warning

[chaean]

Hi, I have had the same battery drain issue on my X5 35d (2012) that this original post by Mirob. I noticed that one of the comfort handle was warm to touch and so I followed the instructions posted in this forum and disconnected the wires to the handle. I didn't cut off the wires but just disconnected the handle from the socket after removing the handle. Then I tied the existing socket to the handle by a separate wire/string so that the socket does not fall into the door cavity. I will check if the battery drain message is gone when I start the car tomorrow. Thank you again for this post.

[chaean]

Just a note to say that my battery drain problem seems to be solved per my post above. It’s been more than a week and I have not had the High Drain Warning show up. Thank you, @mirob, again for the original post of the solution.

[fixingstill]

Would bad (or going bad) door handle give any code if scanned by capable scanner?

[tomjonesBT33]

Originally Posted by fixingstill

Would bad (or going bad) door handle give any code if scanned by capable scanner?

It did not in my case. Even after the handle failed, there was not error code other than the battery drain warning

I had the passenger rear door handle go bad and started getting the High Battery Drain warning. I checked each handle and found the bad handle to be very hot to the touch. Disconnected the wiring to the handle and no more warning error.

One more item to note: before the handle completely shorted out, I noticed that if I stood near that door (eg while filling the vehicle up with gas) and had the key in my pocket, the car would repeatedly lock and unlock over and over. Didn't happen when close to any other door. And doesn't happen now that I've disconnected that handle.

[mirob]

Originally Posted by chaean

Just a note to say that my battery drain problem seems to be solved per my post above. It’s been more than a week and I have not had the High Drain Warning show up. Thank you, @mirob, again for the original post of the solution.

You're welcome. Glad it helped!

Originally Posted by fixingstill

Would bad (or going bad) door handle give any code if scanned by capable scanner?

Not that I'm aware.

[shootermcgav1n]

after much digging i'm glad i found this thread. just picked up a new to me '12 x5d and the CA driver door handle doesn't work, worse still it blew my fuse 132 (and would continue to blow through any new ones i put in) causing other issues. i finally "disconnected" that handle for the time being.

my main question at this point is (as i'm looking to replace the door handle): are the CA door handles specific to their location on the car? as in do you have to replace driver side front for the like, or could you swap in a driver side rear handle?

thanks in advance.

[mirob]

Originally Posted by shootermcgav1n

after much digging i'm glad i found this thread. just picked up a new to me '12 x5d and the CA driver door handle doesn't work, worse still it blew my fuse 132 (and would continue to blow through any new ones i put in) causing other issues. i finally "disconnected" that handle for the time being.

my main question at this point is (as i'm looking to replace the door handle): are the CA door handles specific to their location on the car? as in do you have to replace driver side front for the like, or could you swap in a driver side rear handle?

thanks in advance.

I've mixed and matched without any issues as long as it's on the same side.

I will note this however; for some reason my passenger front door handle will unlock all the doors while my driver front door handle will only unlock the driver door. I don't know if this is a programming issue due to the fact that the handle came off of a rear door or something else.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Will add to this thread: Was chasing this bug for sometime when noticed a thread on the F15 forums where a member posted his door window lock button was making an erratic connection and causing his not to go into sleep mode. I took mine out and cleaned it up with compressed air and have not had a high drain battery warning since, been about 3 months now. Strange fix but something easy to try if its not the comfort access issue causing it.

[mechatony11]

I apologize for bringing up this old thread. I had a similar issue with my car, it turns out that I had a poor battery cable connection, the negative terminal was loose, so it caused the error message to appear. Cleaning the battery post from corrosion and re-tightening it made my car work properly. I did a lot of searches on this issue and came on in depth article which may be worth reading, search for " BMW Increased Battery Discharge on YOUCANIC" and you will see an article that goes over common causes and possible fixes, you can read about it yourself. I hope this information can assist someone else with a similar issue.

[alpctek]

I just removed all the comfort access connections from the doors and my battery is still draining. Has anyone experienced it being something else? I can hear something under the hood running. Maybe that's the sound of it not going to sleep. This is frustrating. Brand new battery, registered by BMW.

[mirob]

Originally Posted by alpctek

I just removed all the comfort access connections from the doors and my battery is still draining. Has anyone experienced it being something else? I can hear something under the hood running. Maybe that's the sound of it not going to sleep. This is frustrating. Brand new battery, registered by BMW.

This was strictly E70 related. The F generation might have a different issue I can't comment on.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by alpctek

I just removed all the comfort access connections from the doors and my battery is still draining. Has anyone experienced it being something else? I can hear something under the hood running. Maybe that's the sound of it not going to sleep. This is frustrating. Brand new battery, registered by BMW.

Check your roof drains. My rear drivers side was pinched off and dumping water into the little cubby in the trunk where the vents are.

[wcs531]

Got the yellow battery light in the dash while starting this morning and the glow plugs were doing their thing in the cold weather. Ended up taking a bit of a shortcut by using a $15 infrared thermometer that I had on hand.

It is possible the sun may have warmed the one door handle more than the others, but I feel like the snow would have melted nearby if so. Plus the same handle that was warmer than the others also acts a little funky in wet weather so I'm almost positive its the problem one. Disconnected it to hopefully confirm its the issue.

[owura143]

Having the same issue with 2014 X5. Left it at the mechanic shop for a whole week and they could not figure out what was wrong. Charged me for diagnostics. I am disappointed.

I suggested the comfort access but they said that wouldn't drain the battery that quickly. I will take it to another shop. After I fix this, I am getting rid of this car

[Jmnavarromd]

I have read this post and others like it. My 2013 X5 started having remote issues about a year ago. I tried changing the battery in the fobs thinking that was it. It sometimes worked but after changing batteries once a week, I figured this was not it.

comfort access worked sometimes, but i just wanted the key fob remote to work. Then comfort access stopped working. I just about gave up using this car. Proximity did not work either. If i want to push the button of the lift gate to unlock or raise the lift gate, nothing.

Then last month, I pushed the button from inside the dash to raise the tail gate. Afterwards, I noticed the key fob remote would work. However, it would not work when I returned. For instance, just going into a grocery store, the remote would not work. I had to use the physical key to unlock the car.

Other times the remote might work the next morning.

Last week I took all the door handles off and disconnected the harness, I left the wires free. I did not cut anything. I will say I did get error codes that all the CAS doors were a problem before doing this. Same problems. intermittent use of the key fob remote. Strange, all doors except the driver door still closed with assistance. Yesterday, I reattached all the harness. Comfort access worked except the drivers door. Had an early instance of no high battery drain. But it came back within an hour.

I did look at the diversity antenna. I removed it and checked the circuit board. there was no recall corrosion to note. I do notice that when the key fob remote is not working, just pushing the lift gate button from inside the car will allow the key fog to magically work. However, if i come back from leaving my car parked, the remote might not get recognized. Then I am back to unlocking with the physical key.

this morning everything seemed fine, but when i got to work and turned off the car, (key was in my pocket and car started without being in the slot), the car said it did not see a key. I pushed the tailgate button to open and then close and the remote worked again. Did not have to put in the slot.

My thoughts are the CAS is a problem but also something in the tailgate.

Any thoughts?

[mirob]

Originally Posted by Jmnavarromd

I have read this post and others like it. My 2013 X5 started having remote issues about a year ago. I tried changing the battery in the fobs thinking that was it. It sometimes worked but after changing batteries once a week, I figured this was not it.

comfort access worked sometimes, but i just wanted the key fob remote to work. Then comfort access stopped working. I just about gave up using this car. Proximity did not work either. If i want to push the button of the lift gate to unlock or raise the lift gate, nothing.

Then last month, I pushed the button from inside the dash to raise the tail gate. Afterwards, I noticed the key fob remote would work. However, it would not work when I returned. For instance, just going into a grocery store, the remote would not work. I had to use the physical key to unlock the car.

Other times the remote might work the next morning.

Last week I took all the door handles off and disconnected the harness, I left the wires free. I did not cut anything. I will say I did get error codes that all the CAS doors were a problem before doing this. Same problems. intermittent use of the key fob remote. Strange, all doors except the driver door still closed with assistance. Yesterday, I reattached all the harness. Comfort access worked except the drivers door. Had an early instance of no high battery drain. But it came back within an hour.

I did look at the diversity antenna. I removed it and checked the circuit board. there was no recall corrosion to note. I do notice that when the key fob remote is not working, just pushing the lift gate button from inside the car will allow the key fog to magically work. However, if i come back from leaving my car parked, the remote might not get recognized. Then I am back to unlocking with the physical key.

this morning everything seemed fine, but when i got to work and turned off the car, (key was in my pocket and car started without being in the slot), the car said it did not see a key. I pushed the tailgate button to open and then close and the remote worked again. Did not have to put in the slot.

My thoughts are the CAS is a problem but also something in the tailgate.

Any thoughts?

Do you have a second fob? Does it work or is it the same? Maybe the NFC in your fob is going out? I'm dealing with this right now in my G80.

[Jmnavarromd]

Originally Posted by mirob

Do you have a second fob? Does it work or is it the same? Maybe the NFC in your fob is going out? I'm dealing with this right now in my G80.

I do the other remote cut out too. But i used that one not very often. I will try using it more.

[mirob]

Originally Posted by Jmnavarromd

I do the other remote cut out too. But i used that one not very often. I will try using it more.

I feel your pain, man. These things can be a headache.

[Jmnavarromd]

Originally Posted by mirob

I feel your pain, man. These things can be a headache.

So still have battery drain, but figured out the key fob, comfort access, and liftgate issues. Turns out it is the wiring harness coming through the lift gate. That is why it worked sporadically. Adjusted the wiring harness so it wasn’t getting pinched. Also i did not see any broken or frayed wires. As of now, I am only having battery drain. I think it might be the alarm batteries being low. I thought they were in the rear bumper. I removed the right side and did not see them. Will check the left side. However it could be under the cowel under the front hood. I will replace the A123 batteries and hopefully this might solve the battery drain.

[jbash87]

Originally Posted by Jmnavarromd

So still have battery drain, but figured out the key fob, comfort access, and liftgate issues. Turns out it is the wiring harness coming through the lift gate. That is why it worked sporadically. Adjusted the wiring harness so it wasn’t getting pinched. Also i did not see any broken or frayed wires. As of now, I am only having battery drain. I think it might be the alarm batteries being low. I thought they were in the rear bumper. I removed the right side and did not see them. Will check the left side. However it could be under the cowel under the front hood. I will replace the A123 batteries and hopefully this might solve the battery drain.

Do you ever get a warning that the tailgate is open when it is actually shut?