Installing Catch Cans on N63 & S63 Engines

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by adamism

Thanks so much Sophisticated Redneck!

Bought all of the crap listed on page 1, waiting for these illusive CNC’d parts!

Been a while; any progress or eta update?

Sounds like a number of us are holding off until we learn more. Just want to make sure it’s still going to be a reality, or if something changed along the way?

Thanks for the effort on this!

im putting all this crap together now, lol.

i am noticing, since i have the s63 engine, that a 45 degree AN fitting out of both valve covers are much better than a straight fitting. on the passengers side, the 8AN is touching the aux water tank bracket and on the drivers side it is touching the fuel line (hard line).

[JUNe70m]

Wanted to see what’s going on with these catch cans. I have 2011 m s63 and would like to purchase this kit or if someone else has done something similar. Thanks

[TTV8M]

That project didn't come to production, so only option is to buy all the parts on page 1 and assemble your own. (Which I am presently doing and noticed you need 2 more of the 8AN 45 degree ends as the straight ends just don't feel right on my engine

[JUNe70m]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

That project didn't come to production, so only option is to buy all the parts on page 1 and assemble your own. (Which I am presently doing and noticed you need 2 more of the 8AN 45 degree ends as the straight ends just don't feel right on my engine

I seen you posted a vid on the old school way of doing the ccv valve to the exhaust. Seems interesting to find out if it works or not. But I think I’m going to go with trying to put together the catch cans instead. Thanks for the heads up on it dying lol

[TTV8M]

It seems with the old school way of venting to exhaust, you need a straight pipe exhaust, and then you also have a situation where if there's too much pressure then the flaps would close and you would not have any airflow.

I too am going the standard way via this thread. Still working out of I need the two smaller flaps on the tree on the driver's side or not as I am going the route of separating both banks and eliminating the cross over tube.

My primary concern is the two stages of vacuum. One stage is vacuum at idle and the other stage is vacuum under boost, hence why there are 4 check valves in the stock plumbing. (2 flapper check valves and 2 round pin sizes in the tree). I'm not an expert on this, just trying to work it out in my brain so it makes sense to me.

The 2 flappers are fine as we are keeping those. Then the two round stock ones are being replaced with the brass adjustables in the catch can. Just need to set that brass adjustment correctly and definitely install that pressure gauge to see what the crank case pressure is and adjust the brass to a max of -10 vacuum, as previously mentioned in this thread.

Originally Posted by JUNe70m

I seen you posted a vid on the old school way of doing the ccv valve to the exhaust. Seems interesting to find out if it works or not. But I think I’m going to go with trying to put together the catch cans instead. Thanks for the heads up on it dying lol

[TTV8M]

I wound up separating the left and right (no cross over tube and removed the drivers side tree on the PCV flapper.)

I have cut the spring as indicated by SR in previous posts but I have yet to install a temporary gauge on the oil cap to see what my crankcase vetilation vacuum is. I have to do that next and adjust the catch can valve springs accordingly.

[Dasky_spas]

Is it possible to post pics of these last steps and the 4 OEM pressure valves?

[TTV8M]

4 pressure values? Or do you mean those two mahle black flappers?

[brownah]

Quick question about the catch can.

I'll need to find an alternative as this one linked is no longer available.

Is it a 2 inlet and one outlet catch can? (The outlet is the vacuum control line) With 8an fittings?