Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck
Slow upshifts (some shifts would take a second+ to engage even in sport mode), horrific down shifts in some gears, slow torque converter clutch disengagement, and a NASTY coast-down clunk. I could tell by the adaptation values it was mainly solenoid issues but at the time (about this time last year) finding new solenoids for the 8HP was pretty much impossible so I did the zip kit just for the hell of it. I will say that some of the shifts greatly improved, some not changed at all but thats a solenoid issue, and over all a nice improvement and well worth the money. I did it at 130K, have over 150k on the transmission now and finally located new solenoids and will be installing them in a few weeks.
Since you have covered that, you may very well have bad accumulators, valve body leaks, leaky end plugs, etc. The Zip will solve all of those. One thing I HIGHLY recommend is getting a borescope so while you have it apart, you can inspect the internals of the valve body for wear. If you have never done a valve body before, make sure to take pictures of everything as you pull it apart. The check balls and one-way valves can differ greatly from version to version so document everything and dont be temped to reuse the separator plate even if it looks like the gasket surface is ok. Its a pretty simply job as long as you are meticulous and only takes about an hour to install the in the valve body
|
So, another twist to the story. Pulled the mechatronic yesterday to prepare for the zip kit and found A TON of sizeable metal shavings in the pan and oil. Oil is really dark and milky - probably has ~100 miles on it. So this thing is shot. Going to do the zip kit, put some new oil in, and have it towed to a specialist for a rebuild.