Attachment 1906169Some Helpful Hints on this EXCELLENT DIY!
I have the exact same vehicle and engine (2012 BMW X550 e70 n63). I performed this service last night and this DIY is spot on, but I thought a couple comments could be made to help others.
1) *Warning* on the Housing Removal tool:
I purchased the filter housing removal tool/wrench at the dealer with the filter since it was only ~$15 with the discount. The part number is
83 30 0 493 936 and they double checked the application for the tool to make sure it matched my vehicle.
HOWEVER this tool is not the right fit! It's a hair too large. I didn't notice when removing the housing since there is a wiring harness pressing against the tool when you apply it on to the housing, which makes it seem like a snug fit that stays on when you let go. I think it would have fallen off if those wires were not firmly pressing on the side of the tool.
It DID remove the filter, but upon re-installation the now slightly oily tool slipped on the housing making it a challenge to get it snug again. I tried putting cardboard inside the tool and managed to get it j-u-s-t tight enough, but am worried that I rounded the housing edges, though it looked fine upon inspection. (I also made sure no dripping once I started the engine)
I measured this tool vs the one used in the writeup. This one is over 87mm, vs the 86.4mm in the writeup.
See gap / imperfect fit. I will be taking it back to the dealer and ask them what THEIR mechanics use for this job, because this can't be it.
2) Just to point out - The 19mm socket mentioned for the housing removal tool is specific to the tool used in THIS DIY. There are at least 5 diff brands of removal tools and they are likely all different. The one used here looks nice as it allows you multiple ways to connect/turn it. (the one the dealer sold me ONLY can be used with a 26mm socket. Or a large 1 1/16 box wrench like I did
)
3) *WARNING - install filter element correctly*
When removing the dirty filter element, note the orientation of the inside of the filter. There is what appears to be a valve inside the element and the new one must be re-installed correctly the same way. I think it would be possible to put it in the housing BACKWARDS, but then it might not screw into the engine pan correctly - but once you have a wrench on it, it might not be noticeable and you could possibly destroy the internal valve/whatever in the filter as you torqued it down.
4) When doing the Oil Service Reset procedure, SHUT YOUR DOOR. I tried it 5 times and never got to the service menu but instead was seeing a large exclamation point (!) and got extremely frustrated. This was accompanied by a message on the iDrive screen "Warning - ignition switched on". Duh, I knew that.
Later I went back out to try again and this time closed my driver door and it instantly worked as described above. So that warning message was to let you know your ignition is switched on WHILE YOUR DOOR WAS OPEN.
Hoping I can save someone some frustration on this.
And a final note - I was short 1 qt of oil when I filled it, I had 8 on hand instead of 9. I figured this would be fine and I could pick up some more the next day. But when I measured the oil level in the iDrive this morning, it said exactly FULL. Go figure!
I do think their software buffers any shortage until it gets to a certain amount, then triggers a Low Oil Level warning all at once. I do not believe the gauge is completely accurate to see a 1/4 qt low, for instance. That said, it doesn't explain why adding only 8 qts doesn't show as low...