Quote:
Originally Posted by drummr8
I just got a great deal on an X5 35d, but I don't have a ton of info about the service history and it's at 137k miles. I am very experienced with BMW's, but not diesels (yet). I plan to do 95% of any work myself, and I also have a 335i that I deleted and tuned with MHD. That being said, here are my questions:
What risk items should immediately be addressed?
When doing deletes, is there anything I should do first/immediately, or do it all at once? How much time should I allot for DIY delete?
For deletes, what exactly is required/recommended parts-wise? Is this everything below? What gaskets are necessary?
https://www.tunemyeuro.com/eco-bille...5d-and-x5-35d/
https://www.tunemyeuro.com/buzzken-b...-cat-delete-3/
https://www.tunemyeuro.com/swirl-fla...5d-and-x5-35d/
Intercooler upgrade necessary/recommended for tunes, like with N55/N54?
Transmission tune worth it?
Transmission "refresh" needed? Will definitely do fluid and filter, but do I need new solenoids, mechatronic sleeve, and the 4 rubber seals between the valve body and housing? (I've always owned manual trans)
Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer. And yes, I'm already reading every thread I can find on the diesels  |
I'd add swirl flap delete and egr cooler deletes are not strictly necessary, and if your wanting to save a few bucks can wait. You can buy a EGR cooler block kit, heck I have one still I think, and the swirl flaps won't make any real measurable difference, except at high power levels maybe. I did go with the race pipe to completely delete the cooler, but its not strictly necessary, unless you have high power goals.
Your going to need to spend a lot of money to turn this car into a performance monster. So economizing on things initially can save big bucks for things that make a bigger difference. I'd also expect your suspension is shot at 130K miles and will need probably new tension struts, bushings, shocks, and etc.
IC like on most cars will make a minor difference with certain tunes. Most of the upgrade people think they are getting is because of a lack of oil coating the inside of the new cooler improving its heat transfer efficiency. Going larger also can increase lag. Best bang for the buck is remove it and clean the oil out, then add a catch can to slow the oil fill up.
I wouldn't bother with the mech sleeve and solenoids unless you have a problem. The sleeve wasn't really a leak issue on this transmission. A fluid change is a good idea. There are plenty of kits, but you will need an accurate way to measure trans temps to achieve the correct fill.