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      01-27-2016, 07:17 PM   #21
m5james
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Drives: '10 X5M Alpine White on Sakhir
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Marysville, WA

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No special tools, just taking off a decent amount of stuff to get access to two hex bolts in a crappy location parallel to the valve covers. What initially started this whole removal was the gasket feeding from the intake tubing into the turbos themselves was loose, so see which ones fit the tightest for you based on the orange or black gaskets mentioned above.

- remove the airbox
- remove the two bolts (one on each side, bottom left pic from the collage above) feeding the intake tubes into the turbos (bottom right pic in the collage above) and be careful as the bolts drop easily nor is their a way to get a straight shot at them - use magnetic bits or throw some painters tape on the tip of your bit for a tighter fit
- remove the forward metal bridge (picture 1 below) over the turbos that holds a couple flex lines, careful not to break the plastic flexible one (corrugated one in top right corner of top right collage above) that connects left to right to each PCV/filtered air duct valve as it's a common failure item
- remove the two metal shields (picture 2 below) connecting to the valve covers, which are what ultimately limit access to the two last bolts (picture 3 below) before you can replace the PCV lines.
- reverse of remocal

If this site could auto adjust pics, I'd be able to show you. Admins...
__________________
'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - JB4 w/ HCP Stage 2 BEF, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS tubing & BMC filters, gutted cats, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch & L/W flywheel, Z4///M 18's

Last edited by m5james; 09-21-2017 at 04:49 PM..
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