I've been working (very slowly) on installing
Sophisticated Redneck pressure gauge kit because my work on the catch cans hit a snag. Not all NPT fittings use the same standards. The ones I purchased do not easily thread into the filtered air duct components. Luckily I had purchased a separate set of filtered air ducts to create an assembly for install. I'm going to have to use a 3/8-18 NPT tap to clear it out to install the fitting, so parts on order.
The pressure gauge kit is pretty impressive, I'll go into detail in a DIY after install. I spent the weekend testing fuses as I want to cleanly connect all the wiring needed. I visited my dashcam DIY last weekend and realized it was far from succinct, lol...and in some cases not 100% accurate. I've since updated it to be a little clearer and corrected based on testing this past weekend.
SCOPE:===========>
Most, including myself in the past, prefer to just tap into existing OEM wires that are perceived or found to be constant or switched power. This was pretty easy on older bmw models. In my E36 retrofitting cruise, 18OBC, rear vent windows, euro alarm, etc. filled the car with quick splice snap connectors. I recently moved to fuse adapters because 1) I'm not adding so many new systems to the E70, 2) Fuse adapters are so clean...it makes any electrical install easily reversible, 3) It makes electrical troubleshooting much easier b/c you can pop off the fuse for the aftermarket system to entirely disconnect. True, it's a little more effort and my dealer claims he saw a code and tracked it down to my fuse adapters for the dashcam that were tied to parking brake and HUD, but reported they caused no real issues. Because of the latter, my testing attempted to target minor system fuses irrespective of fusebox location, IE: charging sockets, lighter, etc.
NOTE: There may be other solutions than what I present below.
GIVEN:===========>
12V CONSTANT aka: HOT, BATTERY, +12VDC, etc. - A connection that provides continuous power that is not cut off by the vehicle's sleep mode or arming of the alarm.
ACC aka: ACCESSORY, SWITCHED, etc. - A connection that provides power only when the vehicle is switched into ACC mode (pressing OFF/ON button) with or without engine ON. Vehicle does enter ACC mode when key is pressed into dash key socket providing media with power, however does
not provide power to 12VDC Power Outlets.
GROUND - Preferably a connection to one of the vehicles existing ground distribution blocks or an existing screw in the chassis that is grounded. All ground wires are brown in the E70.
FOOTWELL MODULE - Avoid any fuses tied to this module, as we all know it's fragile. Digging through schematics I noted the following fuses: F23, F33, F34, F96
SLEEP MODE - If the vehicle is armed (or not) and left alone for 30m+, then it goes into sleep mode which is disengaged when the alarm is disarmed or the doors handles are pulled. At that time, the vehicle shuts down and disconnects power to some fuses that are not CONSTANT power. You can hear a click noise when this occurs. These
SLEEP-SWITCH fuses can be used as switched power to a degree, however they are usually switched ON when the vehicle is disarmed or the door handle is pulled. They switch off after 30m of inactivity. I used one of these as the 'switched' connection in my dashcam DIY successfully.
JUNCTION A4010 - Passenger Under Dash Fusebox. Located under passenger side left air vent. This covers fuses 1-44. Constant power can be found here (F10). Sleep-Switch Power can be found here (F6, F17, F18). ACC power not yet found here.
JUNCTION A42 - Luggage Area Fusebox. Located behind right removable panel. This covers fuses 91-150. Constant power can be found here. ACC power found here (F111).
CONCLUSIONS TO DATE:===========>
NOTE: I plan to route all my aftermarket equipment wiring (constant, switch, ground) to the passenger side fusebox so that there is effectively one location to disconnect any equipment. I also plan to route Switch power and Ground from the rear fusebox to the passenger side fusebox for distribution to any equipment.
CONSTANT POWER - While you can always get constant power from the battery in the luggage compartment, an alternative is Fuse F10 (5A) under the passenger side dash which appears to fit the bill. I tested and it remains powered at 12V+ after the vehicle enters Sleep Mode. I use this as constant power for my dashcam with success. A dashcam requires constant power especially if it has a Night Mode feature, intended to record when vehicle is parked overnight.
ACC POWER - According to the fuse diagrams for my vehicle, F97, F111, F113, F115, and F118 are for 12VDC Power Outlets like lighter, armrest and rear console charging, glovebox charging, luggage charging socket. I physically tested these locations and they are
only powered ON or OFF when the ON/OFF button is pressed making them ideal for switched connection applications. I confirmed these results by measuring voltage at F111 under the various modes. However, all these fuses are in the luggage compartment fusebox. It turns out routing cable from the luggage compartment fusebox, under the lower foot trim to the passenger side fusebox is fairly painless and all you have to remove is: Rear fusebox cover (friction fit), right side rear seat bolster (clip fit), passenger side lower dash panel (3 screws). The remaining wire can be tucked beneath foot level trim.
GROUND - In my dashcam DIY I identify a screw behind the passenger side air vent that is ground to the chassis. However, if your running cable from the luggage compartment to the passenger side lower dash, you may consider running a ground cable as well. To the left of the luggage fusebox is an easily accessible OEM ground distribution block. Connecting to that point with a ring connector is easy, then route to the front passenger side fusebox with switch wiring.
SLEEP-SWITCH POWER - If you choose not to route Switched power to the front passenger fusebox, nor route your equipment wire to the luggage fusebox, you can try using one of the (what I call) sleep-switch fuses in the front passenger fusebox. I've succesfully used F6 and F18 for this application with the switch wiring for my dashcam. However, note that power is switched ON when the vehicle is disarmed or when the door handle is pulled and power is switched OFF after 30m when the vehicle enters Sleep Mode. I plan to stop using F6 or F18 in lieu of the ACC switched power I plan to route to the passenger fusebox, FWIW.
REFERENCE PIX: ===========>
Reference:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/n...mbols.1278630/
2013 X5M Fuse Diagram:
Passenger Side Dash Fusebox shown w fuse adapters in F10, F6:
Luggage Compartment Fusebox:
