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      01-04-2012, 04:44 PM   #23
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For those that were told to "drive longer distances", what distances are you driving now & what defines longer distance?
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      01-04-2012, 04:53 PM   #24
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Driving longer distances is a BS answer. The batteries are bad and this was confirmed with BMW replacing mine. Request a new battery and hope for the best.
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      01-04-2012, 11:32 PM   #25
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This article is quoted below:
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...t-drive-review

Fuel economy should get another small nudge northward from BMW’s brake energy regeneration, which pairs a deep-cycle battery with an alternator that only engages and charges it when the vehicle is coasting or braking, thereby reducing drag on the engine.
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      01-16-2012, 12:56 PM   #26
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Finally after complaining FIVE times about this issue, I have been told that my battery has been replaced. The old battery did not have any error codes and pasted the load test however when they tested it after a few hours it was confirmed that the battery was dropping its charge much faster than it should for no reason.

Hopefully the new battery is the last of this problem. The "you aren't driving enough" excuse really got on my nerves and I told them it's completely bullshit, if I wanted a car I had to trickle charge all the time I would have bought a Chevy Volt.
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      02-09-2012, 03:20 PM   #27
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I have the same problem, (35 K miles) but at least I have an extra GPS alarm system that pulls more than expected from the battery. I didn't drive the X last winter for a week, and it didn't start. Cabled the battery and it started in less than a minute. This 2012 winter, (minus 17 Centigrade here at night, for more than 2 weeks) I make sure I drive at least half an hour every night, but still get every day the warning with the spiral. Plus some weird sh. . like driver's window goes up by itself, the first day, then the passenger's open window goes up by itself.,. .same noise., tic, tic, tic. . like gremlins or some other creatures are fumbling with my door commands. Tonite, I got a tic, tic, tic (minus 16 Centigrade) from the dashboard, but the windows worked correctly.


Ooooh, guys, did you ever experienced this on your X6?! Driver's door, doesn't open, after turning engine off, or still running, or anything. .Door lock off, the door is jammed. Pretty embarassing, mostly in public spaces. . Once I had to jump over to get off the car through the passenger's door. Felt like an idiot (at 6' 4", 250 lbs.) ))))
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      02-13-2012, 03:46 AM   #28
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Couldn't start my X6. Pressed the Start button, lights on the dash came up and off. Engine no sound. Tried several times but each time it got worst. The last time no light at all. Called the BMW mobile service and they told me it is a battery problem. It went totally flat. Not even the external charger can help revived it. Need a new Bat. The moment that was done...it came up. ALIVE again. Was told that the Stock bat is a 70 amp BATT. Better to get 80 amp Batt since the car does require a lot of juices.
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      02-15-2012, 05:55 PM   #29
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Start getting problems with a second battery that was replaced last September (split the cost of battery with a dealer). Last time it was out of warranty couse it older than 2 years. This time my dealer blames my short distance trips(~28 km each way). Seems like an alternator problem (not powerful enough ?) to me
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      02-15-2012, 11:41 PM   #30
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Everyone with these cars should own a good 10 amp battery charger. If you notice the battery is a little low, such as during cranking, or if you get the low battery message, simply use your own personal battery charger to charge it over night. Yes at some point you may need a new battery. But it is not uncommon for these vehicles to need a manual charge from time to time due to the nature of how the battery is charged in these cars, which in turn depends on how you drive the vehicle. You get slightly better gas mileage and performance, because the alternator is not turning unless you are braking. It might be good to give it a good charge on a regular basis especially during the cold months.

I also think that BMW could modify the software to bring the alternator online sooner, than they currently do when the computer notices that the battery voltage is low. If the computer notices a low voltage it should modify the alternator on time to charge the battery as necessary.
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      02-25-2012, 04:00 PM   #31
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I read this on another board regarding the battery issue.........

Since BMW has noticed a very large number of X5 owners experiencing this issue, BMW believes they have a fix to help reduce or help eliminate this problem. I was told the fix entails a new program which reduces the amount of time that the X5 says awake once the car has been turned off. The current software keeps the computer system(not accessories) powered for 30 min after the car is turned off to speed up the "boot process" for people getting in and starting there cars. Since the X5 has close to 60 computers, it consumes a great deal of power when the car is off. The simplest fix would be to change the charging parameter to have the alternator start to charge the battery at a higher level, but BMW has to keep the alternator use to a minimum to help meet federal fuel guidelines and they do not want to have lower the MPG ratings on the X5. Instead, they have now reduced the awake time from 30 min to 20 min. They say this has reduced the number of reported Excessive Battery drain issues by more than 1/2.

Don't know how true this is,,,,only a dealer can tell you if BMW does have an answere to the problem!!
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      03-05-2012, 05:19 PM   #32
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I had this problem on my x5 which I took in 3 times before they fixed it.

Admittedly the SA was great as it was BMW that were being difficult and my SA went to bat for me. In the end I got a new AGM battery and they reprogrammed the alternator to come on earlier. By the way he was talking it sounded like our cars do not have AGM batteries as he said the battery was upgraded after he argued with BMW.

The problem with our cars is the high draw, car not going to sleep and alternator only charging when coasting or braking. One thing that helped a lot was to lock the car when in your garage. The car will go to sleep quicker if you lock the car. Many of us leave the car unlocked when in the garage but this increases draw as the car is awake for longer and the multiple computers are continuing to draw power.
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      03-24-2012, 02:52 PM   #33
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I had a lot of problems with this, I removed the LED puddle and luggage compartment lights and put back the OEM units and I've never had a problem since.
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      03-16-2013, 03:20 PM   #34
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2008 X6 5.0i

I have the same issue. Took it in and they claimed it was the alternator. Replace it and 4 weeks later, it's back. I only have 20k miles and my commute is very short. Drive less than 100 miles a week. Taking it back in Tuesday...
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      03-16-2013, 09:55 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJackal View Post
I had the same issue with my 2008 335xi. I got a battery tender to keep the batttery charged. It is an official bmw oem accessory so shouldn't affect your warranty (that they are apparently not honoring in the first place). $50 fix to avoid the $700 expense down the road. I was thinking about selling it but looks like I hang onto it just in case I need it for the X6. As for now, my X6 issues are oil related. My car is 7 months old and this is the second time the 'low engine oil' warning has come on. Doesn't seem right that I need to top off my oil twice in 7 months.
Do you just attach the clips to the jumper terminal under the hood vs. the battery in the trunk?
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      03-16-2013, 10:50 PM   #36
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same problem here with my x6 5.0i 35k miles, dealer said "working on solution"
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      03-21-2013, 01:54 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiep92657
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJackal View Post
I had the same issue with my 2008 335xi. I got a battery tender to keep the batttery charged. It is an official bmw oem accessory so shouldn't affect your warranty (that they are apparently not honoring in the first place). $50 fix to avoid the $700 expense down the road. I was thinking about selling it but looks like I hang onto it just in case I need it for the X6. As for now, my X6 issues are oil related. My car is 7 months old and this is the second time the 'low engine oil' warning has come on. Doesn't seem right that I need to top off my oil twice in 7 months.
Do you just attach the clips to the jumper terminal under the hood vs. the battery in the trunk?
I've been using the access posts in the engine bay - no problems...Also, I purchased a Bosche charger that has an AGM charge setting, since the pulse curve is slightly different (increased charge voltage initially) than a regular battery charger uses...regardless, get a quality charger on it overnight at least once a month...
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      03-21-2013, 09:50 AM   #38
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FWIW, I had the same issue with my 2011 x6 5.0 two months ago - I went to the dealer who told me they had to reprogram the way the car is set up to charge the battery. Apparently there is a separate profile that can be set up if you make frequent short trips to have the car battery charged right away as opposed to over time. It took them a day to run the profile and I haven't had any issues with the battery since then.
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      04-01-2013, 04:21 PM   #39
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2009 X6 same problem

I started having this issue when my 09 had 12000 miles. At first I was told that I wasn't driving it far enough, then there was a relay or a connection that wasn't functioning properly, then there was a recall on one of the fittings, blah blah blah. Finally, the electrical system totally crashed and went haywire. After 90 days in the shop, BMW bought it back from me. I am terrible sad about the whole affair. I LOVED that car! Hope your issues get resolved.
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      04-03-2013, 02:35 AM   #40
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Angry increased battery discharge, death to my car

so I've experienced this numerous times and it's brought hell upon my life to the point where I haven't driven my car for about a month...

I'm posting because I'm wondering why the hell my car door won't open when you insert the manual key into the keyhole located on the driver side door to open it. I understand that my battery is dead due to the issue but isn't the keyhole there for these reasons or is it just my car. The keyhole works just fine when there's a charged battery in the car but now, for the 3rd time, I'm locked out of my car and pretty much have to break into it, for the 3rd time. First time they drilled into my keyhole at BMW to unlock it (I had a keyhole cover mod and I'm thinking this may have to do with the problem, not sure tho...) Second time they used airbags of some sort which freaking scratched the inner portion of my car door which thank god isn't visible unless the door is opened.

This is a dreadful experience because it should have been fixed the first time around but my dealership refused to do so as they were pointing blame on my ESS software tune which ESS assured me had no possible correlation. Sorry for the vent but any advice would also be helpful. I have an appointment on Thursday with a different dealership since my service advisor won't even return my call. F M L
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      04-03-2013, 08:20 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrinceSmooth View Post
so I've experienced this numerous times and it's brought hell upon my life to the point where I haven't driven my car for about a month...

I'm posting because I'm wondering why the hell my car door won't open when you insert the manual key into the keyhole located on the driver side door to open it. I understand that my battery is dead due to the issue but isn't the keyhole there for these reasons or is it just my car. The keyhole works just fine when there's a charged battery in the car but now, for the 3rd time, I'm locked out of my car and pretty much have to break into it, for the 3rd time. First time they drilled into my keyhole at BMW to unlock it (I had a keyhole cover mod and I'm thinking this may have to do with the problem, not sure tho...) Second time they used airbags of some sort which freaking scratched the inner portion of my car door which thank god isn't visible unless the door is opened.

This is a dreadful experience because it should have been fixed the first time around but my dealership refused to do so as they were pointing blame on my ESS software tune which ESS assured me had no possible correlation. Sorry for the vent but any advice would also be helpful. I have an appointment on Thursday with a different dealership since my service advisor won't even return my call. F M L
Don't wait for Dealership, half of them are mentally retarded kids from friends family. Go straight to BMWNA. Its is an common issue, not just something that happened to you or me. In my case I got lucky, as I have get rid of the car. As it was for 6 days at the dealership who were trying to locate the issue.

As much as I love BMW its looks more and more like a 3rd world car manufacture, with all those things, that never being taking care of.
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      04-03-2013, 08:59 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrinceSmooth View Post
so I've experienced this numerous times and it's brought hell upon my life to the point where I haven't driven my car for about a month...

I'm posting because I'm wondering why the hell my car door won't open when you insert the manual key into the keyhole located on the driver side door to open it. I understand that my battery is dead due to the issue but isn't the keyhole there for these reasons or is it just my car. The keyhole works just fine when there's a charged battery in the car but now, for the 3rd time, I'm locked out of my car and pretty much have to break into it, for the 3rd time. First time they drilled into my keyhole at BMW to unlock it (I had a keyhole cover mod and I'm thinking this may have to do with the problem, not sure tho...) Second time they used airbags of some sort which freaking scratched the inner portion of my car door which thank god isn't visible unless the door is opened.

This is a dreadful experience because it should have been fixed the first time around but my dealership refused to do so as they were pointing blame on my ESS software tune which ESS assured me had no possible correlation. Sorry for the vent but any advice would also be helpful. I have an appointment on Thursday with a different dealership since my service advisor won't even return my call. F M L
How did the dealership know your car was ESS-tuned? Was it towed to the dealership with the tune (due to battery issue?) Or did they find it even when you de-tuned it for the dealership visit? I had considered the keyhole cover mod myself for security issues but realized I wouldn't be able to open the vehicle had my battery ever died so I didn't do it. And it so happens this winter (2 months ago) I got the Increased Battery Discharge issue too. Luckily the battery never completely die on me but it did die when the dealership had it to work on. They wouldve had to drill the cover if I had done the key cover mod. After the battery got replaced I haven't had any issue so far.

Sorry to hear about your on-going troubles. Good luck and hope you get resolution soon.
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      04-05-2013, 05:52 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybervinn View Post
How did the dealership know your car was ESS-tuned? Was it towed to the dealership with the tune (due to battery issue?) Or did they find it even when you de-tuned it for the dealership visit? I had considered the keyhole cover mod myself for security issues but realized I wouldn't be able to open the vehicle had my battery ever died so I didn't do it. And it so happens this winter (2 months ago) I got the Increased Battery Discharge issue too. Luckily the battery never completely die on me but it did die when the dealership had it to work on. They wouldve had to drill the cover if I had done the key cover mod. After the battery got replaced I haven't had any issue so far.

Sorry to hear about your on-going troubles. Good luck and hope you get resolution soon.
They didn't tow it with the problem I actually dropped it off. I've had the same SA for the last 10 years and thought I had a good relation with him and the GM but apparently that's faded away like a failed marriage. I'll definitely be loading stock maps for every service appointment from now on.

Well there is hope at the end of the tunnel. My car is in the process of getting a new battery and they're also fixing the keyhole that was screwed up from the first dealership I took it to. I explained carefully what was going on and they took care of me without question, Beverly Hills BMW servicing FTW. My car will be ready by Monday - I'll update everyone on how she's running.
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      04-05-2013, 09:49 PM   #44
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So that problem goes away once they upgrades your battery to 90 amps from 70amps, plus they have a new software which helps to charge the battery. Right now it doesnt matter what dinstances you driving
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