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      05-11-2016, 07:44 AM   #1
frankenm
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Reduced Power Engine Malfunction - Diagnosis Thread

Decided I'm going to start a thread on this to hopefully help myself and others with the dreaded limp mode/engine malfunction that randomly happens

I've been getting a Engine Malfunction/Reduced power message every once in a while for no apparent reason, seems to usually happen on the highway during soft acceleration ...

I've replaced the following so far in an attempt to remedy this problem,

Bank 2 Injectors
Bank 1 & 2 HPFP's
All Crankcase vent lines
Spark Plugs
Coils
Bank 2 Turbo Diverter valve
Bank 1 & 2 Air Intakes
Probably a few other things I can't remember right now ...

My truck does not throw any kind of check engine light when this happens, just goes into limp mode and turning the truck off and on again makes it go away.

It only happens on the highway, usually when I'm going to pass or getting on the on-ramp and slowly accelerating ... It could be that the truck doesn't like to be driving slowly like this so it goes into limp mode as a way to get back!!??!

I think this is a software issue with the car itself, I haven't hooked up my computer to the car yet when it goes into limp mode but I'm not even sure if it will register since it doesn't throw a CEL.

I know others have similar issues with this and hopefully we can come together and figure out what it is and help each other out here.

Just an FYI I have not had BMW diagnosis this and giving the only dealer in my area is a major crook and I DIY it is not worth it for me to waste my money on it for them to tell me everything is fine.
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Last edited by frankenm; 11-13-2016 at 06:52 PM..
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      05-11-2016, 07:51 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankenm View Post
Decided I'm going to start a thread on this to hopefully help myself and others with the dreaded limp mode/engine malfunction that randomly happens

I've been getting a Engine Malfunction/Reduced power message every once in a while for no apparent reason, seems to usually happen on the highway during soft acceleration ...

I've replaced the following so far in an attempt to remedy this problem,

Bank 2 Injectors
Bank 1 & 2 HPFP's
All Crankcase vent lines
Spark Plugs
Coils
Bank 2 Turbo Diverter valve
Bank 1 & 2 Air Intakes
Probably a few other things I can't remember right now ...

My truck does not throw any kind of check engine light when this happens, just goes into limp mode and turning the truck off and on again makes it go away.

It only happens on the highway, usually when I'm going to pass or getting on the on-ramp and slowly accelerating ... It could be that the truck doesn't like to be driving slowly like this so it goes into limp mode as a way to get back!!??!

I think this is a software issue with the car itself, I haven't hooked up my computer to the car yet when it goes into limp mode but I'm not even sure if it will register since it doesn't throw a CEL.

I know others have similar issues with this and hopefully we can come together and figure out what it is and help each other out here.

Just an FYI I have not had BMW diagnosis this and giving the only dealer in my area is a major crook and I DIY it is not worth it for me to waste my money on it for them to tell me everything is fine.
I got this problem RIGHT after I got my exhaust done, like pulling out of the shops parking lot. That's the only reason I started my diagnosis there. Looked under the vehicle and noticed that the two rubber hoses for the valves from the stock muffler were just hanging. After plugging them up the problem was gone.

Granted, mine was flashing the warning on somewhat harder acceleration runs (by no means WOT). I also noticed that it would reduce the power but would not go into limp mode, per se. Warning would be gone upon restart, like yours.

If you have an aftermarket muffler, that's where I'd check next.

Hopes this helps, good luck.
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      05-11-2016, 08:02 AM   #3
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It may not throw a CEL, but the code could still be stored. You need to get a copy of Rheingold and read the codes
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      05-11-2016, 08:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirob View Post
I got this problem RIGHT after I got my exhaust done, like pulling out of the shops parking lot. That's the only reason I started my diagnosis there. Looked under the vehicle and noticed that the two rubber hoses for the valves from the stock muffler were just hanging. After plugging them up the problem was gone.

Granted, mine was flashing the warning on somewhat harder acceleration runs (by no means WOT). I also noticed that it would reduce the power but would not go into limp mode, per se. Warning would be gone upon restart, like yours.

If you have an aftermarket muffler, that's where I'd check next.

Hopes this helps, good luck.
I do but I put it on myself and made sure to plug these.

If you leave them unplugged you loose power
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      05-11-2016, 08:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue dragon View Post
It may not throw a CEL, but the code could still be stored. You need to get a copy of Rheingold and read the codes
I've got a laptop dedicated to this and no codes are stored for this, only thing I haven't done is hookup to the truck when it is active.
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      05-11-2016, 09:14 AM   #6
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Had the same problem and had engine malfunction errors on slow take offs and highway driving while wanting to pass, found it to be the pressure converter and a vacuum leak from a tube going into the unit. Their was a hairline crack in the tube.


Basically what was happening was at slow take offs the vacuum was not strong enough because of the hairline crack and the error was thrown, on hard take offs the vacuum was strong enough that it was registered and l the engine malfunction error didn't happen


Part number for my 2012 was 11747626351

Once the tube was trimmed and reapplied the code and engine malfunction disappears. Yay!

Not sure as it could be countless issues but I found what your Origanal issues you explained where exactly what I was experiencing and what fixed it for me.

Dealers where telling me it was my vanos and a laundry list of much more expensive things and all it was, was a simple tube trim.

I replaced the pressure converter just because it was cheap and figured it wouldn't hurt.
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      05-11-2016, 09:35 AM   #7
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Explanation above but This is what the part looks like the two tubes plug into it, check for crakes in the tubes
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      05-11-2016, 09:36 AM   #8
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engine malfunction

It happened to me once. I started then did harder acceleration and the light came up. Turn off then back on and the light went away. i realize with the turbos it need time so the oil can circulate. before i take off i let the RPM drop below 1
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      05-11-2016, 10:02 AM   #9
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Diagram showing part "11747626351" and all the hosing that goes with it

It is #2 pictured

There is quite a bit of vacuum hosing here will investigate this most likely replace the hosing.
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      05-11-2016, 11:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankenm


Diagram showing part "11747626351" and all the hosing that goes with it

It is #2 pictured

There is quite a bit of vacuum hosing here will investigate this most likely replace the hosing.
Yep that's the little bugger, just check the hoses that connect to the unit and follow it to where it ends or just replace the hoses as their cheap and it's getting to the age where they are starting to dry out. Think of it as preventative maintenance.
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      05-11-2016, 01:10 PM   #11
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Great thread! I've replaced injectors, spark plugs, vacuum pump, LPFP fuel line with the updated sensor, and everything in the right picture, stuff in the left picture is sitting on my counter.

The PO had removed and replaced the stock muffler which I noticed because the tips were spotless where the valves were closed, so I ziptied them open but I can't find the vacuum lines to save my life.

I swear the power changes by the moment, sometimes it sounds like a Subaru right before I get the reduced power warning, other moments it's a scalded ape...no rhyme or reason. I'll check that vacuum hose mentioned in the above pics because it looks easy until I can find more time this weekend.

Travis1807 created a custom intake and CCV lines that'll delete the BMW plastic lines in the top picture, I bought everything from him, but that doesn't solve the rubber vacuum lines. I've looked on eBay for heat resistant silicone vacuum lines, sounds like it's something we should all do regardless since these random issues keep happening to many others.
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      05-11-2016, 03:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
Great thread! I've replaced injectors, spark plugs, vacuum pump, LPFP fuel line with the updated sensor, and everything in the right picture, stuff in the left picture is sitting on my counter.

The PO had removed and replaced the stock muffler which I noticed because the tips were spotless where the valves were closed, so I ziptied them open but I can't find the vacuum lines to save my life.

I swear the power changes by the moment, sometimes it sounds like a Subaru right before I get the reduced power warning, other moments it's a scalded ape...no rhyme or reason. I'll check that vacuum hose mentioned in the above pics because it looks easy until I can find more time this weekend.

Travis1807 created a custom intake and CCV lines that'll delete the BMW plastic lines in the top picture, I bought everything from him, but that doesn't solve the rubber vacuum lines. I've looked on eBay for heat resistant silicone vacuum lines, sounds like it's something we should all do regardless since these random issues keep happening to many others.
I left you a couple of pictures of where the lines are in correlation to the muffler in the other thread. Bottom of first page.

http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1222381

If you get underneath the vehicle and don't see the lines by the bumper then they may have been removed by the shop that installed your muffler.

Not sure if that's the solution to your problem, but...
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      05-11-2016, 03:52 PM   #13
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I saved your picture from last time, but I've got no lines hanging down at all, so I still need to remove the interior pieces to gain access to where there's supposedly some pump.
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      05-11-2016, 04:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
I saved your picture from last time, but I've got no lines hanging down at all, so I still need to remove the interior pieces to gain access to where there's supposedly some pump.
If those lines are left unplugged the truck loses acceleration completely 100% of the time ... I tested this on mine when installing my exhaust.
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      05-11-2016, 05:02 PM   #15
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Mines hit or miss, it's never 100% which leads me to believe it's something like a hairline vacuum line mentioned above.
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      05-11-2016, 07:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james
Mines hit or miss, it's never 100% which leads me to believe it's something like a hairline vacuum line mentioned above.
Mine was also hit and miss so I bet it's something similar
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      05-12-2016, 06:50 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
Mines hit or miss, it's never 100% which leads me to believe it's something like a hairline vacuum line mentioned above.
I agree, that sounds more like a minor leak somewhere else.
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      05-12-2016, 10:19 AM   #18
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I'll be installing this tomorrow, so I'll look closer then. In the meantime, anyone know what size vacuum line we need because I'd rather just replace it all at this point.
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      05-15-2016, 02:06 PM   #19
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Bumping for feedback m5james ....

How is the intake install and vacuum line replacement faired?
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      05-15-2016, 02:51 PM   #20
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I'm at the BMW 100th Centennial right now, but I'll update more soon. Intake sounds awesome....whoooshhhhh, doo doo doo doo :-)
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Last edited by m5james; 05-16-2016 at 11:03 AM..
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      05-16-2016, 02:17 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
I'll be installing this tomorrow, so I'll look closer then. In the meantime, anyone know what size vacuum line we need because I'd rather just replace it all at this point.
Link for the grilles? Interested in picking up a set.
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      05-16-2016, 11:05 AM   #22
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The picture with the grills and CF hood aren't mine, but they're just F15 X5M grills you can find on eBay or wherever.

Last edited by m5james; 05-17-2016 at 05:50 PM..
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