a/c issue e70 x5d 3rd row

MikeDNJBMW · 09-19-2022, 03:46 PM

A/c issue with 2012 e70 3row. I am getting cold air only on passenger side. Warm air on driver. After reading a bunch of threads, i wanted to believe that i just needed some refrigerant.Hooked up a auto zone can with guage, it was within the lower part of the guage. Added the can and nothing. It would seem like something was cycling and the guage would jump slightly into the yellow and back down. So i evacuated some , and seems to hold steady.

I checked protool for errors and am getting 9C5D(ventilation temperature sensor right).
Not much info on it anywhere. Seems like it is a pressure sensor.

Could this be the issue of only getting cold air out of one zone?? Has anyone had a similar issue?

Will the sensor cause this issue?? Or is it on bc it needs even more refrigerant?? I dont want to fire the parts cannon any further lol

zoom750 · 09-20-2022, 01:56 PM

Check your heater control valve. There are youtube videos that show how.

MikeDNJBMW · 09-20-2022, 02:04 PM

Thanks, i will order one as soon as i fogure out if the pressure switch code has anything to do with it, or is the heater control valve causing the pressure switch code to come up.

Ellie13 · 07-13-2023, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeDNJBMW

Thanks, i will order one as soon as i fogure out if the pressure switch code has anything to do with it, or is the heater control valve causing the pressure switch code to come up.

Mike, did you ever discover/confirm this issue? Our 2013 X5 35i is having a similar problem - regardless of the temperature controls / max ac setting / auto setting - we will occasionally get VERY hot air blowing out of one side of the rear passenger vents. We cannot determine the cause as it is intermittent and never seems to be one side or the other. Sometimes it blows ice cold AC on the driver side rear, while also blowing blazing hot out of the passenger side rear (or vice versa)

One time we even noticed the VERY HOT air blowing only in the driver side footwell, while all other vents (Dashboard: left, center, right and Rear passenger both sides) still blowing cold.

It feels like we are just randomly get this where we turn on the AC and when the car gets up to temp we will just have 1 or 2 random vents start blowing super hot.

We have taken it to a local mechanic that specializes in BMW, and he said that they scanned it, there are no codes or faults, but he also mentioned that they could not replicate the issue, even when the car got up to temp. He said it COULD be the blend door actuator but he was not sure.

P.S. we have the "2 zone" climate control, as there are no controls for the rear passenger 2nd row.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks

Dekero · 07-14-2023, 02:47 PM

Sound alike a heater control valve to me...

Ellie13 · 10-25-2023, 09:26 AM

Update: FIXED the heat/ac issue:

We first tried topping off the refrigerant for the AC system since it was a little bit low. This made the ac colder, but we still had the issue with hot air blowing our of some vents.
I decided to try to replace the heater control valve - as many others do this when they have heat / AC issues.
For us it fixed the issue! No more random heat blowing through vents. I think over time (10 years and about 96K miles in our case) the rubber seals in the control valves just wear out and stop making a seal for the heating loop.

We choose to go with the genuine BMW part from FCP Euro ... I believe its SKU# 64116910544 which was about $200

I have also heard that the Bosch brand version of this part is good quality, but I would avoid going with other off-brands as ive read about other cheaper versions failing prematurely.

The only "special" tool I needed to complete this job was a set of "plastic hose clamp pliers" to gently clamp shut the 3 coolant hoses that connect to the heater control valve.
I bought a set of "6 pack hose clamp pliers" from Amazon for about $14 and these helped tremendously. If you dont use these hose clamps you WILL spill a ton of coolant everywhere once you disconnect the old heater control valve. Also may be a good idea to put a catch pan under the car to capture any small coolant spills while you do this part swap.

Once swapped, just make sure you top off your coolant reservoir once you have a chance to get the car up to temp and cycle the heat/ac a few times.

I hope this all helps!
M

Diesel Driver · 01-02-2024, 07:49 PM

Great advice. I am having the same problem and my mechanic believed that because no codes were being thrown, the problem was in the plastic gear for some of the front actuators were stripped (actuator spindle was moving but gear wasn't closing/opening door). He said he'd have to take apart most of the dash to get to it and I should just let it be.

09-19-2022, 03:46 PM	#1
MikeDNJBMW Lieutenant 16 Rep 420 Posts Drives: 2011 e90 335 ix, 08 335i e92 6 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: bergen county, nj iTrader: (6) Garage List 2012 bmw x5d [0.00]	a/c issue e70 x5d 3rd row A/c issue with 2012 e70 3row. I am getting cold air only on passenger side. Warm air on driver. After reading a bunch of threads, i wanted to believe that i just needed some refrigerant.Hooked up a auto zone can with guage, it was within the lower part of the guage. Added the can and nothing. It would seem like something was cycling and the guage would jump slightly into the yellow and back down. So i evacuated some , and seems to hold steady. I checked protool for errors and am getting 9C5D(ventilation temperature sensor right). Not much info on it anywhere. Seems like it is a pressure sensor. Could this be the issue of only getting cold air out of one zone?? Has anyone had a similar issue? Will the sensor cause this issue?? Or is it on bc it needs even more refrigerant?? I dont want to fire the parts cannon any further lol
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09-20-2022, 01:56 PM	#2
zoom750 Private 10 Rep 60 Posts Drives: 2013 X5M Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: NJ iTrader: (0)	Check your heater control valve. There are youtube videos that show how.
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09-20-2022, 02:04 PM	#3
MikeDNJBMW Lieutenant 16 Rep 420 Posts Drives: 2011 e90 335 ix, 08 335i e92 6 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: bergen county, nj iTrader: (6) Garage List 2012 bmw x5d [0.00]	Thanks, i will order one as soon as i fogure out if the pressure switch code has anything to do with it, or is the heater control valve causing the pressure switch code to come up.
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07-14-2023, 02:47 PM	#5
Dekero Private First Class 36 Rep 114 Posts Drives: 2013 BMW X5 35I Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: Memphis TN iTrader: (0)	Sound alike a heater control valve to me...
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10-25-2023, 09:26 AM	#6
Ellie13 New Member 16 Rep 7 Posts Drives: 2013 BMW X5 35i Join Date: Jul 2023 Location: Little Rock, AR iTrader: (0) Garage List 2013 BMW X5 35i [0.00]	Update: FIXED the heat/ac issue: We first tried topping off the refrigerant for the AC system since it was a little bit low. This made the ac colder, but we still had the issue with hot air blowing our of some vents. I decided to try to replace the heater control valve - as many others do this when they have heat / AC issues. For us it fixed the issue! No more random heat blowing through vents. I think over time (10 years and about 96K miles in our case) the rubber seals in the control valves just wear out and stop making a seal for the heating loop. We choose to go with the genuine BMW part from FCP Euro ... I believe its SKU# 64116910544 which was about $200 I have also heard that the Bosch brand version of this part is good quality, but I would avoid going with other off-brands as ive read about other cheaper versions failing prematurely. The only "special" tool I needed to complete this job was a set of "plastic hose clamp pliers" to gently clamp shut the 3 coolant hoses that connect to the heater control valve. I bought a set of "6 pack hose clamp pliers" from Amazon for about $14 and these helped tremendously. If you dont use these hose clamps you WILL spill a ton of coolant everywhere once you disconnect the old heater control valve. Also may be a good idea to put a catch pan under the car to capture any small coolant spills while you do this part swap. Once swapped, just make sure you top off your coolant reservoir once you have a chance to get the car up to temp and cycle the heat/ac a few times. I hope this all helps! M
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01-02-2024, 07:49 PM	#7
Diesel Driver Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: X35d Join Date: Dec 2023 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (0)	Great advice. I am having the same problem and my mechanic believed that because no codes were being thrown, the problem was in the plastic gear for some of the front actuators were stripped (actuator spindle was moving but gear wasn't closing/opening door). He said he'd have to take apart most of the dash to get to it and I should just let it be.
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