BMW N63 Engine replaced components new problems

[TTV8M]

Very niceb that there is no cam issue

[TTV8M]

There are companies that can clone your dme to a new one

[mp3_in]

Changed lambdas - did not help altho I didn't have errors regarding those in past 3 hr drive, altho I smell gas,

Next week going for ECU flush to origional one, then disable lambdas after cat again - if helps - tune for as much rsprs as it can safely provide

[mp3_in]

Performed an ECU flush to the origional, did not much changed except car now goes better in range 2K rmp+ steady throttle or full throttle,

When slowly accelerating it gets misfiring, I feel it but no error appears, only on gear change,

Boost setpoint is still 1bar and goes up to 1.81 on both turbos, interestingly, it for example goes 1 turbo 1.8bar and then to 1.5 and on turbo 2 to 1.8 bar delivering 712Nm of torque (616 on clutch), no boost error appear, car goes, tested up to 200km/h today as traffic allowed,
When in WOT it has knock values on the most botheting cylinder like 0.30 - 0.38, when I get my foot off throttle it goes to 1.12

What is wrong with this thing I don't know,
My plan is to sell the car in the winter only if Im be able to sell on my terms, if not, Im switching to basic car, send that X to some bmwBrained guy to fk with it for ages until root cause is found and wait for it and then sell for 25% more than will be asking now and I believe it will be sold for this kind of money cause feeling from that car is on another level, also thinking about all coil plugs change, not sure whether is OK to invest more by guessing, cause car iddling perfect, 2K rpm almost perfect, ideas? I been occasionally changing coil plugs when received "ignition error" but never full pack
,
I'll notify!

[TTV8M]

i dont remember if you said you changed your spark plugs. Did you change them? If you did, did you replace them with OEM plugs?

Did you measure the gap of the original plugs you pulled out? and did you measure the gap and adjust the new plugs if you installed new?

[mp3_in]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

i dont remember if you said you changed your spark plugs. Did you change them? If you did, did you replace them with OEM plugs?

Did you measure the gap of the original plugs you pulled out? and did you measure the gap and adjust the new plugs if you installed new?

I was and am using NGK iridium spark plugs, it was near first thing to replace after mods, I've read they replicate M performance spark plugs, link part# 97506
1-Step Colder BMW N63/S63, & N63TU/S63TU Spark Plugs
Info:
We recommend running these NGK 97506 1-step colder spark plugs on tuned or modified BMW N63 and S63 engines. These spark plugs should be changed every 20,000-30,000 miles on a modded N63/S63.

Old spark plugs were looking as new, I did not measure distance clearance, hm, may be I should swap back to origional part, which is like x2.5 times more expensive - may be this price is not out of nowhere

[TTV8M]

I'd recommend pulling out one, whatever one is easy to get to, and measuring the gap. I had to gap my brand new NGK 2 step colder plugs. Apparently it makes a difference.

Just get a decent feeler gauge and see what it's at. Also what about coils? Did you replace?

[mp3_in]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

I'd recommend pulling out one, whatever one is easy to get to, and measuring the gap. I had to gap my brand new NGK 2 step colder plugs. Apparently it makes a difference.

Just get a decent feeler gauge and see what it's at. Also what about coils? Did you replace?

So what measurment those should have? I also have 2 step colder,

Coils change when got ignition error, now debating whether is worrh to change from bosch to "Eldor coils" ..?

[TTV8M]

Gap to . 022 inch

[TTV8M]

Did you put the dielectric grease inside the coil..... On the spring. Just making sure all the variables are covered

[mp3_in]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

Gap to . 022 inch

Thank you, I'll do it somewhere in next 5 days myself,

Yes coils have proper working connector and harness connected,

So as ambient temperature goes down car drives better, if, for example there is +7 degrees outside and dry weather car performs great, if it's +15 dry it performs worser, if +20 and above it performs like shit, also, if heavy rain it also performs like shit,
At the same time, all air leaks were eliminated or were non existed, so Im again thinking of air charge coolers and that I just need to get new ones ...

[TTV8M]

And there's no codes or check engine light? Strange. I would think the sensors would go bad before the actual intercooler goes bad

[mp3_in]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

And there's no codes or check engine light? Strange. I would think the sensors would go bad before the actual intercooler goes bad

Thank you and thanks for bearing with me!, so here I go again, sometimes it drives great, sometimes is peace of garbage, regardless of weather except that turbos have to work more in wet weather.

So now I got 1 error message, it appeared on mega wet weather:
Ox2A28 low fuel pressure, working range.
IT APPEARED ONLY ONCE, never did and did not again, however, now Im convinced either HPFP fuel delivery is unable to get me right pressure on fuel rail, most likely because of "fuel pressure releave valve" could be faulty, so because is physical spring it can wear and cannot close and up in proper timing, me thinking is about it, now I'll look for someone to diagnose and replace either spring part or two HPFP, omg I feel like I almost there,
I got error code is misfire cyl #2 like 80% of time, sometimes couple random cylinders, most of the time it would misfire without throwing any code and while isling is perfect, I smell unburned fuel A LOT, injectors new 12 rev, sparks as well and coil is boach new on #2, compression is OK so last suspect it is (near last, camshafts abd mechanical vanos star is last resort) )))

[TTV8M]

High pressure fuel pump is expensive I think. I think this vehicle also has issue with low pressure fuel pump, I think that's cheaper for right now

[mp3_in]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

High pressure fuel pump is expensive I think. I think this vehicle also has issue with low pressure fuel pump, I think that's cheaper for right now

Hey, I ran that check again and saw interesting stuff:
When put key, there will be 5psi on both rails and immediately drop for bank 1 (cylinder #2 misfires a lot on there) from 5 psi to 4.60 - not a lot...but hey,

Then, when press ignition it goes to 7 bar on both, for bank 1 its immediately drops to ~6.50,
After 30 seconds it also drops for bank2 for 6.63 and for bank1 it goes to 6.33,
Then I start the car cold, (initially bump in RPM ~1500 to enrich with oil) it getting 99.91 for bank2 and 88.90 for bank1 - is it enough to misfire tho - Don't know, however, cyls 1 & 2 started having 0.98 and 1.76 knock signal, also, hear tickling sound a lot more from bank1 side, may be those are actually tired on both sides hence I create "wrong tests", anyway, I think is enlugh to try and swap, I'll update
LPFP is OK as I see that on the chart,

UPD:
So now I'm confident that this is HPFP issue:

When engine is fully warm up, there are strong indication of spring starting to fail on bank1 (so it creates needed pressure to deliver, however, it can stack in some position),
When fully warmed up, on restart (put key and ignition) bank1 shows value 60PSI!! - indication, that spring is just failing to decompress in timing manner, meanwhile on bank2 there is 22.11,
When start vehicle it shows ~90 on both,

Throughout normal drive bank1 rail always wants to put more fuel 135PSI vs 128PSI,
109PSI vs 101PSI,

Unfortunately I could not reproduce like mega stagger performance (and car ran better than usual) but another examples are (bank1 first, time, when I notice slight miafire but no error):
115 Vs 100
114 Vs 97
111 Vs 94

And when car was stopped, after 2 mins:
90 Vs 50

So I say is tired Spring, altho is able to create needed pressure when WOT, is unable to stay in flexible working range and can hang somewhere in decompressed or compressed state

[TTV8M]

Very good diagnosis

[mp3_in]

Okay I changed it myself cause I did diagnostics myself 😅,
Job Difficulty was 6/10, spent 2 hrs(I always have problems reinstalling those air ducts plus veryfying no leaks)
For example changing thermostat (installed cold termis as soon as I bought that X) was 10/10 job,

Car did start afterwards so that is great sign already!
It had difficult time starting and running for the first 30 seconds, as soon as I cleared errors on misfire engine went running smoothly, I did not test drove it yet, Im afraid to be honest, if it doesn't resolves then I'll have to prepare $$$ for camshaft inspection (((
I will test drive it today or tomorrow.

What I was able to see, new one extends a little bit further and springs are a lil bit thiker.

[mp3_in]

Originally Posted by mp3_in

Okay I changed it myself cause I did diagnostics myself 😅,
Job Difficulty was 6/10, spent 2 hrs(I always have problems reinstalling those air ducts plus veryfying no leaks)
For example changing thermostat (installed cold termis as soon as I bought that X) was 10/10 job,

Car did start afterwards so that is great sign already!
It had difficult time starting and running for the first 30 seconds, as soon as I cleared errors on misfire engine went running smoothly, I did not test drove it yet, Im afraid to be honest, if it doesn't resolves then I'll have to prepare $$$ for camshaft inspection (((
I will test drive it today or tomorrow.

What I was able to see, new one extends a little bit further and springs are a lil bit thiker.

I test drove it for around 30 mins a lot of gear switching mode, it is going better now, in the worst weather condition with 95% humidity very light rain, snow and fogue 😂and is called "moderate climate", yes is still shakes a bit from time to time but overall is x2 times better, I think on dry weather it be very pleasant drive plus I hope in the next 100km ECU will perform adaptations based on new HPFP performance, readings show exactly the same situation around pressure in rail tho, however, knock sensor showing 0.75 now in average and max 1 (very rare) instead of 1.0+ and max of 1.80 very often like it was before, let's see, I did maximum possible on my part for now, if doesn't fix I send that car to somewhere who understands complex engine or smthing, also, got to take of turbines and establish right pressure wastegate opening to open at 1.3 bars because, for some reason new ones won't open until, like, forever) keeps blowing like mtfk and I eventually get pressure too high error, I'll update,

Thanks for attention!

[TTV8M]

Were they expensive

[mp3_in]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

Were they expensive

I did order Bosch which is $130 , bmw is around $800

[///Marty]

[QUOTE=mp3_in;30646920]
I got error code is misfire cyl #2 like 80% of time, sometimes couple random cylinders, most of the time it would misfire without throwing any code and while isling is perfect,

Hello,
This sounds very similar problem I had with my car, although mine is the
///M version with the S63 engine.
I had the exact same problems plus other random errors driving me insane.
Have you inspected your DME?
Because that's what seemed to cause all of my problems, you can check my Thread here, I just posted recently:
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2020676

[mp3_in]

[QUOTE="///Marty;30756759"]

Originally Posted by mp3_in

I got error code is misfire cyl #2 like 80% of time, sometimes couple random cylinders, most of the time it would misfire without throwing any code and while isling is perfect,

Hello,
This sounds very similar problem I had with my car, although mine is the
///M version with the S63 engine.
I had the exact same problems plus other random errors driving me insane.
Have you inspected your DME?
Because that's what seemed to cause all of my problems, you can check my Thread here, I just posted recently:
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2020676

Thank you!
I did fill DME with the origional soft, it did not fix for me(
my X is almost ideal altho Im having "EKP speed is missing" - RKP responsible to controll LPFP, I found good electrician and he looking into it, meanwhile I bought classy bmw for daily use and as soon as X is fixed Im gonna sell it, there is nothing better than sound of V8 but hey, this car should have been bought new and only new, I will have fears driving it again) But before selling I intended to test drive M4 and see the difference, cause I don't think there are much difference in 80-140 km/h speed and cornering, I think difference starting to appear at 160+ and we don't even have place/track to go at that speed.