Buy or lease

[UAxDEATH(NYC)]

I know its very old question:

But I was thinking to buy new X6M instead of leasing.

I lease right now.

[doeboy]

depends on your use and whether or not you plan to keep it a long time. I am going to buy cause I can take it as a tax deduction when I buy it ($25K the first year) and I drive too much to make the lease payment plus paying for extra miles make sense. if you dont't plan to keep it a long time then leasing may make sense as you have a defined exit strategy even if gas keeps going up. good luck

[Jess///M]

If you're thinking of keeping it or really driving it at all, and if you're considering any mods, I recommend buying. It's a great car!

[UAxDEATH(NYC)]

Only 1 thing is scares the shit out of me is NYC roads. Who lives here, knows what I'm talking about. My current car is half way dead. When I hit a bump car feels like a buckets of bolts. Not even mentioning the rattling noise.

[AndreyATC]

I commuted brooklyn-manhattan daily for 8 years
Two of my 3-er bimmers survived it
Never required alignment either and did not turn into rattle box
X6 will do fine, just dont buy aftermarket wheels with rubber bands

[UAxDEATH(NYC)]

Originally Posted by AndreyATC

I commuted brooklyn-manhattan daily for 8 years
Two of my 3-er bimmers survived it
Never required alignment either and did not turn into rattle box
X6 will do fine, just dont buy aftermarket wheels with rubber bands

Well then I'll call myself unlucky one. Be cause my bmw x6 5.0, every 3 months requires the tire balancing. Alignment was done already by dealership.

And no I don't buy anything aftermarket for BWM, learned that lesson from others. Very nasty lessons.

[sinsima]

if you the kinda person who likes to switch cars every couple of years, and have the latest and greatest, lease.

[UAxDEATH(NYC)]

I actually learned that I don't want any other car besides the x6

[Southernbelle]

Originally Posted by UAxDEATH(NYC)

I actually learned that I don't want any other car besides the x6

Me neither! I've been in love with the X6 for years now. I test drove the MB GL and the Audi Q7, I didn't feel the same excitement as when I drove the X6. I had to have one. Now the wait is on.

[Mike van D]

Originally Posted by Jess///M

If you're thinking of keeping it or really driving it at all, and if you're considering any mods, I recommend buying. It's a great car!

+1

[djosephs]

Did the same as doeboy. You can accelerate the depreciation for a nice first year tax break. Need to buy, can't lease for this. I squeezed my X6M in on the 2011 tax year.

[doug_999]

Last I checked (last year), the residuals on the X6M were terrible. Based on that I would purchase because the X6Ms seem to hold their value a lot better than BMW thinks they do.

[Werkz12]

Leased my 2011 X5M for 1250/month.
The dealer told me he never leased one for under 1600. I told him to plug in the money factor and residual that were clearly posted publicly by BMW.
1200/month. After one year I can walk back into the dealer and trade it in and just walk away if I wanted to roll into something else. I owe 68k to get out and the car is worth that on a trade today.
If you dont keep cars for 5 years (I dont) and you are leasing the car "right" not overpaying- it can be a nice way to avoid the early depreciation and in my case you can walk away from the lease after one year if you choose. 36 month lease can be broken at 12 months - walk away clean.

I;ve done this with Rover Sports as well. Make the stealership use the best money factor and get the purchse price to be $200 over invoice.

[Werkz12]

Sell privately you can get out of the lease and put a couple $$ in your pocket. If you're buying say a new M5 the dealer will handle all the paperwork for a private sell. I;ve dont this once or twice with a private buyer and walked away from a lease.

[doug_999]

Originally Posted by das144

Leased my 2011 X5M for 1250/month.
The dealer told me he never leased one for under 1600. I told him to plug in the money factor and residual that were clearly posted publicly by BMW.
1200/month. After one year I can walk back into the dealer and trade it in and just walk away if I wanted to roll into something else. I owe 68k to get out and the car is worth that on a trade today.
If you dont keep cars for 5 years (I dont) and you are leasing the car "right" not overpaying- it can be a nice way to avoid the early depreciation and in my case you can walk away from the lease after one year if you choose. 36 month lease can be broken at 12 months - walk away clean.

I;ve done this with Rover Sports as well. Make the stealership use the best money factor and get the purchse price to be $200 over invoice.

I'm not saying it is impossible, but rarely can you get out of a 3 year lease at the 1 year mark cleanly. I've never seen it happen, but depending on the car, the state, and the options, it might be possible.

Many states (IL included) charge tax on the full purchase price of the vehicle (I bet yours doesn't - because that's a screaming deal you got on the X5M). This tax gets spread out across the payment schedule making it even more impossible to get out easily.

Next, vehicles tend to depreciate the most in the first year, but the lease acts like a loan so you actually pay much more interest in the first year compared to future years.

Last but not least, if you option up the car, the options become worthless at time of trade. I had a 2006 550 that I wanted to sell and found out that black book on the 550 looked at three things 1) Auto Trans, 2) NAV, 3) Sports package. Each and every option I had on top of that were worthless on the trade. Leasing hides this (you are guaranteed your residual on each and every option, no matter how silly) - until you try to get out of your lease early.

I personally think leases are great because they allow me to get the car I want (lots of options) and get a guaranteed residual on the car after X number of years. But I've found out twice (at least for me) that it was not possible to get out early without significant damage (basically making the remaining payments).

[Werkz12]

I never go nuts with options. like you said the options become worthless at trade in time. I order the car with only what I really need. $4500 for a ski bag and rear sun shade- I'll pass.

[Stargunz]

i've bought many cars (finance) and leased... overall lease is the better option and i'll tell you my reason why i think so.

with a buy even if it is your dream car the fact is were on the X6 forums so we are fans of latest greatest, early adopters of new and different things

with a buy should the feeling ever change and i have no doubt it will (think 2016 X6 or BMW i8 just for examples) you have to worry about now its no longer amazing in the consumer world just like trying to sell an ipad2 after ipad3 already came out.

with a lease you test the waters if you truthfully love it you will extend the lease or intent to buy it at which point you've already payed for 50% of the car if it was a 3 year lease so your buy payments will be lower

i went with a 3 year lease on my new x6 i had a lexus gs 430 before that and i paid it off owned it for 3 1/2 years felt it was THE car but you know how it goes, we are way to cool and bleeding edge to stick to just 1 car eventually something cooler comes its way

just my 2 cents hope it helps

[UAxDEATH(NYC)]

Thank your all for input.

Major question, is where will I save more money on lease or buy in lets say 4 years of ownership ?

[doug_999]

These days, BMW residuals are targeted to make the 3 year lease the most attractive. Most people (myself included) do not want a BMW out of warranty, so the residuals at the 4 year mark are terrible. But they are based on BMW's real world guess, so they may be correct.

If you are going to get out of the car at the 4 year mark (FOR SURE), then leasing will lower your out of pocket expenses at the cost of not having a trade at the end of 4 years.

One other thing to remember - leasing protects you. So if gas prices are at $10 a gallon in 4 years and you have gas guzzler (and let's be honest, none of the X5/X6 vehicles get great mileage) you are going to get killed on your trade, but be fine on your lease.

Your dealer can run the numbers for you to help you determine what is the better choice.

[Werkz12]

Originally Posted by doug_999

Your dealer can run the numbers for you to help you determine what is the better choice.

From my experience Id say do not trust the dealers numbers.
Do your homework and know the current money factor and residuals for a 36month lease. You'll be amazed how you can save $300 a month just by plugging in the programs BMW is running. The dealer will get you for as much $$ as you are willing to pay. Thats why you see one guy paying 1200 a month and another paying 1800 for the exact same optioned car.
Also make sure the price of the car is close to invoice. Ask for $200 or $500 over invoice. If your dealer wont play ball walk away- lots of dealers will- just make some phone calls.

[macd1995]

Originally Posted by das144

From my experience Id say do not trust the dealers numbers.
Do your homework and know the current money factor and residuals for a 36month lease. You'll be amazed how you can save $300 a month just by plugging in the programs BMW is running. The dealer will get you for as much $$ as you are willing to pay. Thats why you see one guy paying 1200 a month and another paying 1800 for the exact same optioned car.
Also make sure the price of the car is close to invoice. Ask for $200 or $500 over invoice. If your dealer wont play ball walk away- lots of dealers will- just make some phone calls.

I am planning on leasing-- own my '08 328CI, and i am getting quotes from three different Dealerships so far. One has offered me $3,300 over Invoice (still have to double check his invoice numbers) on the 50i. Is it really possible to get to $500 over invoice on this model? It only equates to ~$50 a month savings (1.88MF & 64% residual), but $1,800 after three years adds up.

Thoughts?

[doug_999]

Originally Posted by macd1995

I am planning on leasing-- own my '08 328CI, and i am getting quotes from three different Dealerships so far. One has offered me $3,300 over Invoice (still have to double check his invoice numbers) on the 50i. Is it really possible to get to $500 over invoice on this model? It only equates to ~$50 a month savings (1.88MF & 64% residual), but $1,800 after three years adds up.

Thoughts?

Apparently das144 is able to

But most people report back that the X6 is in short supply and $2,500-$3K is norm for the 2013s(my dealer had to trade an order slot with another dealer last year). I also disagree with das144 that the dealer will always try to get the most $ from you. Yes, there are plenty of bad ones out there and yes, MOST will mark up the money factor, but each and everyone I have ever dealt with has never marked it up the lease by $300,$400, $500, or $600.

I find it funny (or maybe less so) that dealers are not allowed to make any money on these cars. That you "should" be able to get the car for $200 or $500 over invoice along with no markup on the money factor. There is no "holdback" for BMW dealers, so the markup they make on the car along with the increase on the money factor is how they make their money on new cars.

Me personally? I like to work with a professional dealer who tells me how much they are making on the car - including the markup on the money factor (if they do that). My sales person at Autohaus BMW (Brett Midgley) told me exactly how much he was charging me over invoice and how much he wanted to mark up the money factor (I asked him to lower this). They still probably made money on the tire and wheel insurance but I sort of expect that they should.

If you are going to do PDC or heck, don't even want to deal with your dealer, give Brett a call.

edit: Current money factors and lease rates here
http://www.ridewithg.com/