Buying an E70 X5M? Need to knows...

[greddy91]

All,

Prior to purchasing my X5M I did a cursory views by Googling for X5M common problems which didn't yield much info. This lead me to purchase an X5M without the proper level of knowledge. This lead me to have a pretty terrible pucker factor as things began failing.

So in order to assist someone else on this journey I wanted to put together a short guide from my experiences thus far.

In order of failure now:

1. Driveshaft woes
26-20-7-556-020 - This worked for my 2010 $180 on eBay - $1350 from BMW proper
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=995198
Good thread on what build dates are and are not covered as well as experiences of people having their shafts swapped and not based on various factors.

2. Vacuum hoses
11-15-7-589-989 vent pipe
11-15-7-589-992 vent pipe
11-15-7-595-188 connecting line -$70 from local BMW -$55 from eBay (spare)
13-71-7-848-152 filtered air duct
13-71-7-848-152 filtered air duct
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=954887
I initially have only replaced the connecting line, but still seeing oil residue on top of the top hose bracket. More likely to follow.

3. Spark Plug Swap and Coil Change (Preventive maintenance)
Spark Plug OEM - 12 12 7 570 106 - NGK 95770 for me from Amazon $86 for 8
Coil OEM Numbers: 12131712219, 12131712223, 12137551260 - $20 on Amazon
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1080563
I began with a misfire on cyl 7 as diagnosed by my elm327. Pulled all the coils and replaced all the plugs - specifically tracking where I put coil 7 so that I could easily replace it if it was bad. After the plug swap - the cyl misfire moved to cyl 6 where I placed the coil for ease of replacement. Fixed that... then met a buddy for a cigar we decided to also go get some drinks so I drove. Wanting to show off my now functional behemoth I romped on it on a straight and boom cyl 7 misfire again. Got home, coil dance around again and yup - second coil bad in two days. Replaced all 7 instead of waiting for another to fail and put 6 in the trunk JIC a new one were to die.

4. Comfort Access causing high battery drain
I don't have a part number - sourcing painted part from eBay $60

5. Sticky Passenger Door Handle
OEM - 51 41 6 969 402 - Ebay purchase for $50

6. Coding out annoyances
Carly adapter bought via Amazon - App bought on Google Market

I had a ELM327 sitting around and while it would allow me to clear codes (NECESSITY) it wouldn't allow me to code some useful functions.
1. Disclaimer disable
2. Camera Warning
3. Couldn't close hatch via remote
4. Couldn't roll windows up via remote
5. No video in motion
This resolved all of the above, but wouldn't allow for some really cool functions on one module based on some known quirky firmware.
Can't recommend custom coding because I haven't done it personally, but to me it seems like it would have been a more worthwhile investment to get all of what I wanted. This cost just delivered some. (Roughly $175)

5. Melty plastics above the firewall
51-71-7-169-421
51-71-7-169-419
51-71-7-169-420
(Optional fix - Downpipes cause the cats are just giant heat collectors)
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=921680
The middle portion of these plastics melted big time and began dropping on my heat shield, which then lead to me seeing a random smoking coming from the engine bay on spirited drives. When I pulled off the engine cover (leaving the air filter assembly in place, just pull it up and move it out) I noticed right away a boiling pool of ABS plastic residue in a nice little puddle on a bolt holding the heat shield together in the rear by the firewall.
I elected to buy AP Downpipes to remove the massive heatsource and just deal with the plastics because I'm not going to be Dom Torreto'ing anytime soon.

That's it thus far... other owners feel free to chime in with your common issues you have combatted. This is such a fun platform... I almost let the gremlins make me turn it, but I powered through and am glad I have today. Looking forward to downpipe install this weekend and hunting for a great tune to match to put me in the 700-750hp realm as I originally intended for her.

Hope this can help someone!

GH

[jandref321]

Thanks for posting! If people actually search then this will help them.

[BMW-SRT]

good info, I didnt find much info before purchasing my 2013 X5M a little over a month ago either, I haven't had any issues so far but I think I will check my connecting line tomorrow.

On the door handle, ive read that the comfort access module doesn't go to sleep after the car is off so it causes the battery discharge error. Is this why you replaced your door handle?

I stopped using comfort access and just use my remote to open and close my doors and haven't had the battery discharge error since.

[askjeeves]

Awesome post! As someone in the process of buying a x5m this is much appreciated.

[badge1]

Awesome - thanks man!

[greddy91]

Originally Posted by BMW-SRT

good info, I didnt find much info before purchasing my 2013 X5M a little over a month ago either, I haven't had any issues so far but I think I will check my connecting line tomorrow.

On the door handle, ive read that the comfort access module doesn't go to sleep after the car is off so it causes the battery discharge error. Is this why you replaced your door handle?

I stopped using comfort access and just use my remote to open and close my doors and haven't had the battery discharge error since.

I still haven't bit down on the handle replacement, but the reason for investigating it is that the comfort access on the driver handle doesn't work at all. All the other doors are good to go, just the driver's door is dead. I too am 100% reliant on the remote for usage, that's honestly not a bad thing as the age of the battery on the remote is delivering terrible life and they only sold it with a single key. Thus - I have to charge it in the hole on each drive. Tough times to actually have to stick something in a slot to drive. heh.

[bmwx5er]

Hmm, if you have comfort access, the remote battery is non-rechargeable. Sticking it in the slot does not recharge it. You'll need to replace the battery - it's only $2 at Amazon.

[mirob]

Originally Posted by greddy91

I still haven't bit down on the handle replacement, but the reason for investigating it is that the comfort access on the driver handle doesn't work at all. All the other doors are good to go, just the driver's door is dead. I too am 100% reliant on the remote for usage, that's honestly not a bad thing as the age of the battery on the remote is delivering terrible life and they only sold it with a single key. Thus - I have to charge it in the hole on each drive. Tough times to actually have to stick something in a slot to drive. heh.

CAS remote battery has to be replaced, as noted. Also, I wouldn't wait too long to replace the door handle, eventually it will start draining your battery. I have also replied on your other thread regarding the subject.

Here is the trouble I went through with this, it's not a DIY but work is pretty simple and straight forward.

http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1372349

[greddy91]

Originally Posted by mirob

CAS remote battery has to be replaced, as noted. Also, I wouldn't wait too long to replace the door handle, eventually it will start draining your battery. I have also replied on your other thread regarding the subject.

Here is the trouble I went through with this, it's not a DIY but work is pretty simple and straight forward.

http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1372349

This is great info. Please clarify for me though... Were you saying the driver side front and rear door handles were interchangable? That didn't even dawn on me if so.

[mirob]

Originally Posted by greddy91

This is great info. Please clarify for me though... Were you saying the driver side front and rear door handles were interchangable? That didn't even dawn on me if so.

That is correct. You can swap the front and rear. SO, if you can live with the CA not working on one of the handles, you can swap them (that's what I did). However, if you do so, I recommend you leave the power cable disconnected once you do. This is to prevent the handle from drawing power constantly (that's why they get warm/hot and drain the battery). This doesn't always happen but it can. Mine were not working for a couple of years and never had issues until one of the dead ones started doing it recently, out of nowhere.

Leaving the power cable disconnected will will cause a setback, however. If you decide to replace the handle eventually, you'll likely have to take the door panel off to locate the cable as it will fall into the door. I really didn't find a way to secure the cable for easy access later but I didn't really try hard either. Didn't really plan on replacing them with working ones.

ALSO, be careful not to lose the bolt once you unscrew the handle. If it comes out it will get into the door...just more work trying to get it out (pulling door panel).

[greddy91]

Originally Posted by mirob

That is correct. You can swap the front and rear. SO, if you can live with the CA not working on one of the handles, you can swap them (that's what I did). However, if you do so, I recommend you leave the power cable disconnected once you do. This is to prevent the handle from drawing power constantly (that's why they get warm/hot and drain the battery). This doesn't always happen but it can. Mine were not working for a couple of years and never had issues until one of the dead ones started doing it recently, out of nowhere.

Leaving the power cable disconnected will will cause a setback, however. If you decide to replace the handle eventually, you'll likely have to take the door panel off to locate the cable as it will fall into the door. I really didn't find a way to secure the cable for easy access later but I didn't really try hard either. Didn't really plan on replacing them with working ones.

ALSO, be careful not to lose the bolt once you unscrew the handle. If it comes out it will get into the door...just more work trying to get it out (pulling door panel).

Awesome!

I already noted the screw problem when I removed the handle the first time. Magnetic bits and care highly recommended. Great addition here. Thanks again.

[project3328]

Great info in here!

[813X5M]

Originally Posted by greddy91

All,

Prior to purchasing my X5M I did a cursory views by Googling for X5M common problems which didn't yield much info. This lead me to purchase an X5M without the proper level of knowledge. This lead me to have a pretty terrible pucker factor as things began failing.

So in order to assist someone else on this journey I wanted to put together a short guide from my experiences thus far.

In order of failure now:

1. Driveshaft woes
26-20-7-556-020 - This worked for my 2010 $180 on eBay - $1350 from BMW proper
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=995198
Good thread on what build dates are and are not covered as well as experiences of people having their shafts swapped and not based on various factors.

2. Vacuum hoses
11-15-7-589-989 vent pipe
11-15-7-589-992 vent pipe
11-15-7-595-188 connecting line -$70 from local BMW -$55 from eBay (spare)
13-71-7-848-152 filtered air duct
13-71-7-848-152 filtered air duct
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=954887
I initially have only replaced the connecting line, but still seeing oil residue on top of the top hose bracket. More likely to follow.

3. Spark Plug Swap and Coil Change (Preventive maintenance)
Spark Plug OEM - 12 12 7 570 106 - NGK 95770 for me from Amazon $86 for 8
Coil OEM Numbers: 12131712219, 12131712223, 12137551260 - $20 on Amazon
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1080563
I began with a misfire on cyl 7 as diagnosed by my elm327. Pulled all the coils and replaced all the plugs - specifically tracking where I put coil 7 so that I could easily replace it if it was bad. After the plug swap - the cyl misfire moved to cyl 6 where I placed the coil for ease of replacement. Fixed that... then met a buddy for a cigar we decided to also go get some drinks so I drove. Wanting to show off my now functional behemoth I romped on it on a straight and boom cyl 7 misfire again. Got home, coil dance around again and yup - second coil bad in two days. Replaced all 7 instead of waiting for another to fail and put 6 in the trunk JIC a new one were to die.

4. Comfort Access causing high battery drain
I don't have a part number - sourcing painted part from eBay $60

5. Sticky Passenger Door Handle
OEM - 51 41 6 969 402 - Ebay purchase for $50

6. Coding out annoyances
Carly adapter bought via Amazon - App bought on Google Market

I had a ELM327 sitting around and while it would allow me to clear codes (NECESSITY) it wouldn't allow me to code some useful functions.
1. Disclaimer disable
2. Camera Warning
3. Couldn't close hatch via remote
4. Couldn't roll windows up via remote
5. No video in motion
This resolved all of the above, but wouldn't allow for some really cool functions on one module based on some known quirky firmware.
Can't recommend custom coding because I haven't done it personally, but to me it seems like it would have been a more worthwhile investment to get all of what I wanted. This cost just delivered some. (Roughly $175)

5. Melty plastics above the firewall
51-71-7-169-421
51-71-7-169-419
51-71-7-169-420
(Optional fix - Downpipes cause the cats are just giant heat collectors)
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=921680
The middle portion of these plastics melted big time and began dropping on my heat shield, which then lead to me seeing a random smoking coming from the engine bay on spirited drives. When I pulled off the engine cover (leaving the air filter assembly in place, just pull it up and move it out) I noticed right away a boiling pool of ABS plastic residue in a nice little puddle on a bolt holding the heat shield together in the rear by the firewall.
I elected to buy AP Downpipes to remove the massive heatsource and just deal with the plastics because I'm not going to be Dom Torreto'ing anytime soon.

That's it thus far... other owners feel free to chime in with your common issues you have combatted. This is such a fun platform... I almost let the gremlins make me turn it, but I powered through and am glad I have today. Looking forward to downpipe install this weekend and hunting for a great tune to match to put me in the 700-750hp realm as I originally intended for her.

Hope this can help someone!

GH

Thanks for this mate! This is my second M , next to my e46, and its my first suv, gonna baby her!