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      04-03-2014, 11:32 AM   #1
mikew2069
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Anyone DIY H&R Springs?

I'm curious if its a straight forward install or if there is anything I need to know about? I did my F30's H&R springs and I've done a few other cars also in the past...
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      04-03-2014, 11:56 AM   #2
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Interested also. Subscribing to see if anyone chimes in. I've got a box of springs ready and the closest installer I've found is 3 hours away and he wants about $800 to do it. I thanked him for the "estimate" and hung up. Got his name from the local BMW CCA chapter bulletin by the way thinking they would be ok sources.
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      04-03-2014, 11:58 AM   #3
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I think the question is, what specialty tools are needed for the install? If none, then it's a standard install that any monkey can do. I've installed coilovers, springs, koni inserts, and more. Barring any special tools (e.g. special uber german special tools), I can do most any bolt-on in my garage.
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      04-03-2014, 12:32 PM   #4
troymi
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I was looking for a DIY video of the X5 but couldn't find one. Lots of them for 3 series and others on bavauto and others. Post if you get any other info please.
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      04-03-2014, 12:45 PM   #5
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I have the self leveling so I only need to worry about the fronts. If no one replies, I might just take a wheel off this weekend and start to take a corner apart.
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      04-03-2014, 12:53 PM   #6
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Spring compressor!
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      04-03-2014, 01:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upstateX5M View Post
Spring compressor!
Yes, that's always a given.
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      04-03-2014, 10:25 PM   #8
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You will have to remove the cabin filter covers that run along the top backside of the firewall to get to the top of the struts. I marked the top of the struts so they would go back in the same way. Three nuts on top of the strut and and one bolt for the sway bar link, one bolt on the bottom of the strut that it slips into and then i removed the upper control arm ball joint so the strut can be pulled out. Once all the top plastic covers and little screws are removed up top the struts are very easy to remove. Undo the two plugs for adaptive drive models and pull out the strut. Get your spring compressor and replace with your new spring. Then reinstall. Hope this helps.
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      04-04-2014, 06:42 AM   #9
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Thank you, then yes this should be a relatively easy install.
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      04-04-2014, 10:00 AM   #10
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I DIY'd my Eibachs. The install is identical. I rented some spring compressors from PepBoys and got it done easily enough. I have rear air, so only had to do the fronts. The rear I coded a matching drop.
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      04-04-2014, 04:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finagle69 View Post
I DIY'd my Eibachs. The install is identical. I rented some spring compressors from PepBoys and got it done easily enough. I have rear air, so only had to do the fronts. The rear I coded a matching drop.
You were able to code the rear? Care to share how?
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      04-04-2014, 07:51 PM   #12
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^ +1, please explain what you mean by coding the rear
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      04-05-2014, 02:44 AM   #13
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I did the install myself, Not anything crazy, just have to remove the air cabin filter panals to access the strut tops. The rear I used adjustable rear links since I have self leveling. You can code the rear ride height with edibas if I remember correctly but it seemed like a headache so I just used the links which took 10 min to install.
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      04-05-2014, 07:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunkd View Post
I did the install myself, Not anything crazy, just have to remove the air cabin filter panals to access the strut tops. The rear I used adjustable rear links since I have self leveling. You can code the rear ride height with edibas if I remember correctly but it seemed like a headache so I just used the links which took 10 min to install.
Yea it looks straight forward. The ball joint is something I've never done but seems simple enough.

I am curious about that coding the rear though. So if you can code, is it an easy code?
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      04-06-2014, 02:48 PM   #15
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skunkd is right on. Very easy install. The upper a arm is just one 16mm bolt that you loosen and pull out. The lower assembly will drop down. I kept a low profile floor jack underneath the brake rotor and lower it down. Make sure you have some wire support to keep brake lines from being pulled as the lower assembly hangs by itself. I used a coat hanger which is pretty strong. When done, double check everything is tight. Let us know how it goes.
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      04-09-2014, 11:57 PM   #16
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hey guys, can anyone help me with getting the torque specs of the bolts involved in doing this install? thanks in advance
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      02-24-2016, 08:42 PM   #17
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bump. Torque specs?
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      06-19-2016, 11:21 PM   #18
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bump torque specs
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      06-21-2016, 10:29 AM   #19
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Hey guys don't quote me on this but i know from the F85 X5M the torque values are as follows:

(The suspensions are extremely similar so hope this helps a little)

Front:

Strut tower bolts 30 ft/lbs
Upper control arm 43 ft/lbs
Clamp holding shock to fork 54 ft/lbs
Fork to lower control arm 166 ft/lbs

Rear:
Top Shock nuts 33 ft/lbs
lower shock bolt 118 ft/lbs
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      06-21-2016, 11:27 AM   #20
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Thanks Kenny!!
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      06-28-2016, 02:35 PM   #21
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The install was easy... but the issue im having is the REAR passenger is about 1 inch higher then the driver.

The x5M is self leveling sensors. I believe they measure the front springs then level the rear. im off somewhere because one side sits higher then the other in back.

I used the links provided.
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      06-28-2016, 05:40 PM   #22
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There not adjusted to Same length, I had same issue and got a vernier caliper and one side was set 2.5 longer as I originally used a measuring tape, recheck your links it takes no time!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaM3 View Post
The install was easy... but the issue im having is the REAR passenger is about 1 inch higher then the driver.

The x5M is self leveling sensors. I believe they measure the front springs then level the rear. im off somewhere because one side sits higher then the other in back.

I used the links provided.
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