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      11-17-2013, 01:07 PM   #1
akashyap
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X5M/X6M/S63 Oil Change DIY

Hey Guys just got the oil changed on my X5M. Just wanted to make a DIY since I didnt see one.

Difficulty: 1/10 Ultra easy if you can put gas in your car and can turn a wrench you can do this.

Tools:
18mm Hex bit Socket
86mm 16 flute oil filter wrench.
Torque Wrench
9 bottles of oil
1 oilfilter kit.

First Things First. Drive your car for a bit until your oil temp gauge is at least at the first dot. If you need to ask how to do this stop and go to the dealer.

Next get your car on some ramps, like so:


Now go under your car, be careful of hot components.
And locate where you see something like this: Should be at the front of the car maybe 2 feet back from the bumper.


If you cant find this stop right here and go to the dealer.

The bolt inside the blue circle if the drain bolt (18mm hex)
The black cylinder looking thing inside the red circle is the oil filter housing.
Closeup of oil filter housing


Get whatever you are going to catch your oil in and remove the drain bolt. Oil should start pouring out.

After it slows down remove the oil filter housing (86mm 16 flute)
there will be some oil in the housing so be careful try to catch as much of it as possible.

The oil filter is "snapped" into the housing. Just pry up it will come off eventually. Now clean the inside of the housing out. Use a papertowl or whatever you want, doesnt matter too much.

Now look inside your new oil filter kit. You should have a package of seals. You should see a large rubber ring inside your package. Replace the seal at the bottom of the threads on your oil filter housing with this new one. Make sure you wet the seal really well with new oil before replacing it. You should also see a large copper washer. This is the crush washer for the drain bolt. Make sure you remove the old one from the drain bolt, sometimes they get stuck on, and replace it with the new one.

Now "snap" the new filter back onto the housing. This side down:


Make sure it snaps. It will make a sound when it does. Its obvious.

Now put the drain bolt back in. The torque is 40nm.

You want to saturate the new filter a bit so there is less oil starvation when you first start the engine. This is easy just pour about a half bottle around the oil filter in between the edge of the filter and the housing itself. NOT DOWN THE MIDDLE.

Put the filter housing back into the car. Torque on this is 30nm initial back 180deg final torque 40nm. Or just use your hands and get it back on as tight as you can get it. It should tighten a bit when it heats up anyway.

Now you already have .5qt in the car because you poured some into the oil filter housing. Now fill another 8qt in through the top.

Take the car off the ramps and idle it at around 1500RPM's for about 5 mins. Check the engine oil level in iDrive. If it shows up as half way between the min and max lines. Add the rest of the .5qt after you turn the car off otherwise if it is already at max. You're all done. Take it out for a spin and come back and check for leaks.
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      11-19-2013, 12:05 AM   #2
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THANKS, What oil did you use?
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      11-19-2013, 12:54 PM   #3
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Nice write up! How did you reset the oil change interval reminder in Idrive?
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      11-19-2013, 03:37 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardH View Post
THANKS, What oil did you use?
BMW 5w-30


Quote:
Originally Posted by Toneaero View Post
Nice write up! How did you reset the oil change interval reminder in Idrive?

Turn on the ignition

Press the trip odometer reset button for about 10 secs until the first service job appears in the cluster

Press the button again to scroll through the different jobs

Once you find the one you want, oil, press the button again for about 3 secs, then reset should appear and then press it again for another 3 secs. Should be all done now.
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      04-12-2014, 12:43 PM   #5
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Thanks

Nice post. Not sure if there is a typo on the oil drain plug hex size, but just did oil change and found that the plug on my 2010 X5M was 8mm, rather than 18mm.
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      04-13-2014, 08:04 AM   #6
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Question on the filter, so no twisting on a threaded hub? It just friction fits over rubber washers ?
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      04-13-2014, 12:53 PM   #7
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A couple of points. The 35Diesel engine would need less quarts of oil. Check your manual though cause I am not certain if its 5 or 6 quarts. Also, on the 35d their is no temp gauge at least none on the 2010 models.
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      04-13-2014, 11:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydavey View Post
Nice post. Not sure if there is a typo on the oil drain plug hex size, but just did oil change and found that the plug on my 2010 X5M was 8mm, rather than 18mm.
Hmm 8MM for a hex is REALLY small. Dont think its a typo. Take a pic of the bolt next time?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Do328j View Post
Question on the filter, so no twisting on a threaded hub? It just friction fits over rubber washers ?
Not sure I understand your question
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      04-14-2014, 07:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akashyap View Post

Not sure I understand your question
I think he asking if you need to screw off/on the filter. The answer would be yes the filter screws off and on.
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      10-16-2014, 10:12 PM   #10
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Excellent Post, I just changed mine.

Thank you,

Oil filter tool: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XML6DU/...332200_TE_item

Moderators can we get a Sticky on this DIY?
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Last edited by WallyM5; 10-16-2014 at 10:23 PM..
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      12-17-2014, 05:09 PM   #11
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Going to do it this weekend!
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      12-18-2014, 09:45 PM   #12
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Great thread OP. Recently started to DIY oil changes for all my cars. Nice to get your hands dirty once in a while!
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      12-20-2014, 07:23 PM   #13
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Great thread. Thanks for posting.
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      01-15-2015, 05:40 PM   #14
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Is there not enough workable room under the car if you don't use ramps?
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      01-22-2015, 10:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Ace View Post
Is there not enough workable room under the car if you don't use ramps?
With out ramps it's going to be very tight. If you have long arms you could make it work.
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      04-12-2015, 11:30 PM   #16
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Did mine this weekend/today. Got it done. Post and pics were helpful. Used ramps which helped along with a creeper. Used incline of the driveway to help.
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      04-13-2015, 12:02 AM   #17
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Awesome thread, thanks for the pics and tutorial. Got it done in 30 min super easy. Much appreciated
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      04-13-2015, 12:22 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrobc13
Did mine this weekend/today. Got it done. Post and pics were helpful. Used ramps which helped along with a creeper. Used incline of the driveway to help.
Ops forgot pics. Here you go!
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      02-25-2018, 05:15 PM   #19
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Had an Oil change done, oil is black within 4 days??

Hey all! I took my X5 M E70 in to get an oil change, before seeing this thread. And, I realized that the mechanic could actually scam you out of an oil change, since there's no dipstick to check right away if the oil's clean or not. So, 4 days after the oil change, I got nervous, so I found the oil drain plug underneath, and drained a very small amount onto a white egg container, lol. The oil to my surprise was very dark brown, almost black! Did I get scammed? Or is the oil supposed to get black right away (4 days later). They supposedly put in a new filter and 8.5 Liters of new synthetic oil. The motor is a 4.4L twin turbo gasoline, NOT diesel. I know I should have checked it right away, but my other car which has a 2L turbo engine, doesn't get black within 4 days. Thanks!!
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      03-17-2018, 06:43 PM   #20
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I think you’re good. The sides of the carton looks clean and not thick and goopy like 7-14k oil change.

4 Days is a lot and it IS a V8
Next time put some nail polish across the filter cap and housing. If they change it, the line should be broke
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      11-19-2018, 11:55 AM   #21
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Thanks OP for the guide, as a way of paying it forward, I put a video together for those that are more motion picture sensitive.

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      12-20-2018, 07:31 PM   #22
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I didn't see it in cncmastr's video, but I'm curious about a design element of the filter housing...
My latest X5M has a piece of plastic in the center of the filter housing where the 2010 I had previously didn't (I was the 3rd owner). On the current vehicle, that plastic piece holds the filter in the housing. The weird thing for me was how that piece stayed attached to the old filter (and the filter to the engine) while removing the filter housing from the vehicle. For clarity, as you "work away" from the engine block it goes: filter>plastic center hub>filter cap.

In various DIY posts and a couple X5 videos, I don't recall any reference to that thing I called a plastic center hub.

Given how much effort it took to install it on a new OE, BMW M branded filter, I wonder how the heck these plastic things don't get more mention.
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