X5d - Methanol Injection - Charge Air Line Question

[Hofzer]

I just finished going through the dreaded Carbon Build Up issue and routine with the dealer. The issue emerged for me at 90k miles. So I decided to add methanol injection primarily as a way of mitigating CBU. I've seen many claims that water/methanol injection will "clean" CBU, but little to back it up.

My question is: Does anyone have instructions or a procedure for removing the Charge Air Line? I'm happy to document the process for others but, despite much searching, have found no guidance on this step. Also, I've seen many examples of folks installing methanol/water injection on 335d's but, few if any on X5d's

I intend to remove the Charge Air Line so I have access to tap it, clean it up, and install the nozzles and line for boost sensor. All help is appreciated.

For those who are interested, after research, I intend on installing the Snow Performance "Universal" State 2 Kit with VC-50 Controller.
http://www.snowperformance.net/POWER...-p/sno-450.htm

I will swap out the reservoir for a 3 Quart model from ProMeth, which should fit in the side passenger rear removable panel area.

I also plan on swapping out the seals for the charge air line when I replace it, because it seems like good practice.

Thanks again for any help.

[fsd350]

Welcome to the forum. The link below should have all the information you need:
https://www.newtis.info/

[ryansbmw]

Interested in this. Let us know how the install goes. I'm toying with the idea of installing a kit like this and injecting thru the charge pipe, or picking up Twisted Tuning's direct port kit.

[Deftronix]

I have a torqbyte controller and will be installing soon. Reason for the delay being I'm trying to figure out a plan to re-purpose the passive def tank (almost 4.5gal capacity)for the reservoir, much more efficient use of space and already paid for it in the cost of the car. Have to create a block between the active and passive systems then tap into it somewhere else for a feed line. Will be nice filling it up under the hood instead of trying not to spill anything in the cargo area.

You think about doing an EGR race pipe instead of modifying your charge pipe? EGR delete is also another critical piece to reducing CBU, gives you two npt ports also. I will be putting another MAP sensor in the extra port (ahead of the nozzle).

[philly42]

Subscribed
I'm looking forward to seeing the install.

[Hofzer]

Originally Posted by fsd350

Welcome to the forum. The link below should have all the information you need:
https://www.newtis.info/

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ifold/8IT4WYud

Thanks! This is very helpful. The top is easy enough to scope out, but I haven't stuck my head underneath the engine bay. I wish the manual included a path out, as everything it tight and, I was scratching my head on how to snake the thing out, then back in with nozzles hanging off it. Trial and error it will be!

[Hofzer]

Originally Posted by ryansbmw

Interested in this. Let us know how the install goes. I'm toying with the idea of installing a kit like this and injecting thru the charge pipe, or picking up Twisted Tuning's direct port kit.

Do they make such a kit for the M57? I had been looking for a pre-throttle body plate, but never found one. I never looked for direct port.

My understanding, which could be corrected by someone more learned than I, is that direct port injection is best for cooling EGTs, but charge air line injection gives the charge air temperature sensor a chance to detect the lower temperature. In any event, I want the moist air flowing through the entirety of the intake/manifold to hopefully keep the CBU in check.

[Hofzer]

Originally Posted by Deftronix

You think about doing an EGR race pipe instead of modifying your charge pipe? EGR delete is also another critical piece to reducing CBU, gives you two npt ports also. I will be putting another MAP sensor in the extra port (ahead of the nozzle).

I have thought about it yes. But, It seemed to be another lever of expense that also required coding. I be interested in seeing specifically what products you are looking at.

[Hofzer]

Originally Posted by philly42

Subscribed
I'm looking forward to seeing the install.

I'll be sure to document and share. I'm currently gathering parts and information. I'm looking to install between Christmas and new years.

[Hofzer]

A couple more questions for the knowledge base:

What is "anti-friction agent" referenced in the service bulletin? Silicone based lube?

Also, any suggestions for a route through the fire wall? I plan on mostly following the service bulletin for installing the prodigy brake controller (which I'll be doing as well, what the hell, as long as I'm removing trim) for purposes of wire routing and giving me access to the cigarette lighter, which I'll be tapping to power the controller. But that doesn't get me into the engine bay. I'm debating mounting the controller in the center console or the glove box. I don't plan on staring at it whilst driving once I have the parameters to my liking.

[Deftronix]

Originally Posted by Hofzer

I have thought about it yes. But, It seemed to be another lever of expense that also required coding. I be interested in seeing specifically what products you are looking at.

If you take a look at the stock egr valve you will notice how much of the intake is blocked by it. Regardless where you put the nozzle (unless direct port) is going to screw with the atomization / distribution big time.

Direct port ups the points of failure quite a bit. I played with the idea of welding threaded bungs into a set of swirl flap deletes but decided against it due to the expense of all the extra components needed. Plus if one nozzle gets clogged now you have a cylinder getting quite a different mixture than the rest and not easily identifiable.

One or two nozzles intake side is much easier to monitor for overall performance but you dont want them so low to where it could start pooling fuel in your FMIC, which is why the egr race pipe is a nice compromise even though its after the intake air temp sensor.

The system I have put together so far consists of:

Torqbyte CM5 - Went with the full version over the "LT" since the Prometh pump can draw upto 13.5 Amps and the LT is rated @ 10A.
ProMeth DDP-5800 - Highest rated PSI pump in its class and one of the only with threaded npt ports and not push fittings.
ProMeth Pulse solenoid - Handles 300psi and one of the faster response times on the market.
ProMeth filtered nozzle 378ccpm - Starting low and distilled h2o only and will work my way up from there.
Aarodriguez EGR race pipe w/ 2 threaded npt ports.
3/8" NPT Inline filter to go between the tank and pump inlet.
Not pictured is a 300 PSI pressure sensor which I intend to hook up to the CM5 to get actual line pressures in "T" fitting between the solenoid & nozzle.

Also going to have a threaded bung welded onto the egr exhaust manifold block off plate for wideband sensor to verify AFR's.

Waiting on some aeroflow fittings and need to stop procrastinating coming up with plan to use the passive tank because I refuse to add another tank in the car!

[Hofzer]

Originally Posted by Deftronix

Waiting on some aeroflow fittings and need to stop procrastinating coming up with plan to use the passive tank because I refuse to add another tank in the car!

I hear you. Tank mounting options on the X5 are limited. Where are you mounting your pump? At least for the Snow pump, I was encouraged to mount it below the reservoir, if possible.

I like your approach, especially the ability to map injection based also off RPM. I've read that BMW's like to close the throttle body and spike the boost pressure in the charge air line. Your controller should be able to "read" the situation and inject accordingly, where as mine will just see "dumbly" see boost pressure and inject fully.

Actually, it looks like you're setup will be reading boost post-throttle, so that is not an issue in the first place. Now I'm going to scope out if there is somewhere post-throttle for me to tap for boost pressure.

I also went with the ProMeth filter. I plan on running windshield washer fluid, so that was a no-brainer.

I'm mostly married to my equipment and approach now and will save tackling the EGR delete and tune for another day, maybe.

I'd love to hear and see your progress!

[philly42]

Originally Posted by Hofzer

I'll be sure to document and share. I'm currently gathering parts and information. I'm looking to install between Christmas and new years.

Nice! I'm planning to purchase an injection kit this Christmas. Though it will be for the supercharged Z3M. The plan is to run 50/50.
If we decide to keep the X5M longterm, it'll be getting the injection mod too. Not only for the performance gains but like you mentioned, to help remove buildup.

[Hofzer]

The weather and my schedule finally coalesced the past couple weekends and I've made some progress. Here is a picture of the kit from Snow Performance and some other items I collected for the install.

[Hofzer]

The first order of business was to find a mounting location for the pump and filter. I put aluminum strips behind the plastic for support. None of the bends seem sharp enough to cause a kink. The routing is less than ideal, but should work.

[Hofzer]

Wiring back to from was definitely a PITA. I followed the instructions for the brake controller (which I installed at the same time because why not). I could not have done with without the attached removal instructions for the trim pieces that were uploaded by another user. Unfortunately I can remember the users name to give them credit and many thanks.

Use plastic tools and plan on buying half a dozen retaining clips, as they will break during the removal, but can be easily replaced. I had to wait until the next weekend to reinstall the trim, so I could pick up replacement clips from the dealer.

On the pic below, you can see the the ground post I used to ground the pump, the level sensor, and the controller. I'm a big fan of heat-shrink crimp connections.

One red 1/4" meth line heads forward, while the other one is connected to the reservoir, not pictured. I tapped into an unused fuse slot to power the controller. The trailer brake controller plug is just above the meth line on the right.

[Hofzer]

I wired both the meth controller and the trailer controller to the glove box.

The neodymium magnets are holding their counterparts on the other side of the trim while the glue sets. I'll bond magnets with the gauge pod for the VC-50 and the brake controller. When I want to see them, I'll open the glove compartment and set them, or one of them, on the edge. Even with the VC-50, once I have it set up how I want it, I don't plan staring at it while I drive. I'd rather have it hidden away and keep the stock look.

[Hofzer]

I was dreading finding a route through the firewall and wasn't finding much information on a good route. Thankfully, as I dug in the engine bay behind the glove box, I found the wire bundle from the cabin and a nearby conduit into the cabin. I don't really like having the pressurized meth line running by what appears to be a computer module, but the convenience was too good to pass up. Also, when you remove the light from the trim panel below the glove box, put it back in its housing. I left the incandescent light hang and it melted carpet wherever it dangled.

From there I drilled and grommeted my way into the main engine bay, coming out right by the washer fluid fill port.

That where I wait for now. I don't have enough time to pull the charge air pipe if something goes wrong, so I'll wait for another good weekend.

[Hofzer]

Here is the tank as installed. The level sensor is poking out the left side of the tank. I also put an LED in line (it came with the level switch from ProMeth), which you can see on the lower right mounting flange (green).

My goal was to install a tank that still allowed me to lift the floor up to access the storage there, where I keep my trailer hitch, bungees, etc. This tank worked perfect and I'm happy with the install. Hopefully I won't have to fill it more often than I fuel up.

I bought a half-dozen bottles of $1.58/gallon water/meth washer fluid from walmart and tested everything before I reinstalled the trim, and everything is good so far.

[protecon]

Umm.. you've routed your meth line through your DME.

[Hofzer]

Originally Posted by protecon

Umm.. you've routed your meth line through your DME.

I've routed my pressurized windshield washer fluid line adjacent to my DME. It's a risk I'm willing to take because 1) I'm using low meth fluid, which will avoid any Micheal-Bay-type consequences; 2) the DME is in its own baffle/container with the meth line lower than the top, which should offer some protection; 3) my controller has broken line protection; and 4) it was so darn easy and avoids risk of nicking something while drilling somewhere else.

[Hofzer]

Stupid question. How in the heck do these evil connectors come apart? Pictured below is a plug that is the same as the one for the sensor in the charge air line (but easier to photograph). BMW already replaced this sensor for me once, so the plugs been off and and on. The white piece was in the "out" position when i found it. I found another thread saying the white piece should be out to remove. But, no matter which position I put it in, the plug doesn't want to budge. Anyone?

I'm currently scoping out locations for the injectors and mounting the solenoid.