03-04-2018, 05:58 PM | #1 |
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Fair price for an E70 in good shape?
Hey, so I'm looking to pick up my first E70 for some medium-distance commuting.
Goals are: 2012-2013, 30-50k miles, Certified Preowned, under $30k. CPO warranty on the 2013s is up in a few months, so I’m shopping intensely now. I'm looking at one now - certified pre-owned (thru 7/20/18) 2013, 30k miles, 1-owner, clean carfax, looks clean - convenience package, standard seats, BSM and black interior - that the dealer refuses to bring below $29k. How does that sound? It looks like I could go a few thousand bucks less if I take a car with 50k miles, or get a longer warranty adding a few thousand bucks and getting a 2014. I could go to a random non-BMW dealer, but I'd get zero warranty. |
03-04-2018, 09:06 PM | #2 |
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As a Certified AST, I’m not buying that CPO Bullshit. As a personnel who have been working on not only my own but couple other E70 and a 2017. I will strongly recommend a Diesel over any gas truck for couple reason, 1. Your water pump won’t go bad since it’s a mechanical one not a electronic one 2. Nothing can go wrong with your hydraulic steering rack 3. 6 speed box is robust. If you have any concern of those EPA crap to go wrong then your are really thinking too much. Your commute is medium distance means probably you won’t turn you car off before your engine warm up, this will make sure your DPF gets regenerate all the time. DEF isnt that bad since this is not a power stroke it won’t blow up. There isn’t any reason to go with a 35i except cheaper. I personally will go with a private seller who’s car has a minor accident history, like a front bumper or rear bumper. As long as no suspension parts has been replaced, engine isn’t shifted and rear quarter panel or windshield frame section hasn’t been replaced, and frame rail is perfectly straight you are good to go. Mileage wise I wouldn’t go with a ultra low mileage vehicle, those vehicle either been driven in town most of the time, or has been some sort of issue that prevent owner from driving it. 2012-2013 MY is the best one to go with and those minor accident will give you 3000-6000 dollar discount as long as you know what to look for when purchase the vehicle. CPO is a completely bull shit I won’t pay for that much premium for those parts that I can get for cheap and put it in by myself or an individual shop.
Oh my 35d has been driven pretty hard by me, I have it in DSC off and DS all the time. As long as you keep driving it and over maintain it, nothing can go wrong. BMW ain’t that money pit like a Mercedes. If you have any further question about a specific vehicle I’m happy to help you out and look at it. Try to save you some extra bucks and don’t get scammed by delalership. |
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03-04-2018, 11:30 PM | #3 | |
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I'd be curious to see the VIN on this 2013 you're looking at to see the full configuration, but given what you've posted, it's sounds pretty stripped of options for a $29K asking price. I'd keep shopping. |
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03-05-2018, 04:27 AM | #4 | |
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And carfax: https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistor...ZV4C56D0G53561 Buying CPO, since there are a few available still covered, I thought might take out some of the risk of buying used - I'd at least have a few months to find and repair any significant problems. |
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03-05-2018, 10:27 AM | #5 | |
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You might find a later 2013 build that still has a year or so left of CPO? If it's being sold as CPO, it should be well sorted out and not need much of anything in the first few months of ownership. Obviously just need to determine the in-service date to know when CPO expires. I see 80 2013 35i's on BMWUSA.com - only 4 are CPO, including the one you're looking at. Not much of a selection, but if you see one you like that's all that matters. |
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