S63 - Vacuum Pump 11668649747 vs 11668605976

[frankenm]

Anyone have experience replacing their vacuum pump?

I'm currently looking online and have found two different parts that look identical but HUGE price differences.

Part # 11668605976 - Costs around $450...
Part # 11668649747 - Costs around $45...

I found part # 747 in various forums and I can't find it anywhere on realoem.com.

ECS has photos of both and they are identical, the BMW dealers I occasionally purchase from also list it for sale but none actually list compatibility.

Anyone have actual experience in replacing their pump and using this part?

Strange it doesn't show up on realoem and it costs 10x less... but looks like an identical part.

[jcm3]

Ive used 11 66 8 649 747 with no issues. Looks exactly the same. Price went down connsiderable cause when i bought mine it was ~100.

[GregWX5]

What are the symptoms of the vacuum pump going out?

[jcm3]

Rear oil leak by the passenger downpipes

[frankenm]

Originally Posted by jcm3

Ive used 11 66 8 649 747 with no issues. Looks exactly the same. Price went down connsiderable cause when i bought mine it was ~100.

Thank you sir

[mirob]

Originally Posted by frankenm

Thank you sir

Did you end up going with #747? Thoughts?

[TwinSnailz]

I just recently replace mine with 747 . All is good.

[Molez93]

My apologies for the thread resurrection, but it's exactly what I would like to better understand.
I just had a bunch of preventive drivetrain fluid maintenance done and the tech observed what appeared to be a leaky vacuum pump on the tranny. Replacement quote was $1850, which I'd assume includes the ~$500 pump and not the $50 version (referenced in the early part of this thread)
So...
Does the S63 engine have only a single vacuum pump?
Anyone with more details on when we might need to chose the pricy pump over the cheap one (they seem to be OE BMW for both).
Or better yet... anyone tried rebuilding one with those $25 kits?
Does ~5hrs as a DIY repair seem right?

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by Molez93

My apologies for the thread resurrection, but it's exactly what I would like to better understand.
I just had a bunch of preventive drivetrain fluid maintenance done and the tech observed what appeared to be a leaky vacuum pump on the tranny. Replacement quote was $1850, which I'd assume includes the ~$500 pump and not the $50 version (referenced in the early part of this thread)
So...
Does the S63 engine have only a single vacuum pump?
Anyone with more details on when we might need to chose the pricy pump over the cheap one (they seem to be OE BMW for both).
Or better yet... anyone tried rebuilding one with those $25 kits?
Does ~5hrs as a DIY repair seem right?

There is only one vacuum pump on the engine. There is not one on the transmission itself. Did he mean that the engine vacuum pump was leaking onto the transmission? Otherwise he may be referring to the solenoid on the transfer case? I know there is a thread on here where M5James talks about how he replaced the pump. I think he only had to pull the passenger downpipe, and everything that needs to be pulled to get there obviously...

Instructions:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-pump/ByROwExy

Aftermarket Part (Same manufacturer who builds them for BMW):
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/166...ump-724807350/

It took me 6 hrs to swap both my downpipes the first time. I imagine this would probably take 4-5hrs. You'll need to kneel/squat on the forward engine brace to reach back there and it will be a little tight. If you pull the downpipe you should technically replace the turbo to downpipe gaskets and the downpipe to midpipe gasket. Will need long extensions for the nuts. http://www.hotcarparts.de/bilder/Akrapovic/EBA/X5M.pdf

[jandref321]

Here is a discussion where they say you only have to remove the heat shield...way faster:
https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...1067620&page=2

[Molez93]

Originally Posted by jandref321

Here is a discussion where they say you only have to remove the heat shield...way faster:
https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...1067620&page=2

Thanks to all!
That thread above (previously bookmarked) is pretty much why I thought I could do this myself. Key piece of info right now (I think) would be hearing from anyone who has actually tried to rebuild the pump.

The service advisor seems to be a little inexperienced with BMWs having spent most of his career with GM dealers. The only parts of the vacuum pump problem I have which he seemed to be clear on were
1) Wet condition on/near it
2) If it gets worse, it will start dripping on the exhaust
3) The pump is on or near the tranny

I tried pressing for clarification asking "are you telling me it's THE vacuum pump or there's a separate pump which is leaking" but that's where his information now seems to divert from reality or at least get fuzzy.

I know these fail. At 107k miles, it would make sense mine is in need of replacement/rebuilding.

[pearlpower]

Another confirmation on the 11668649747 fitting on my 2010 X5M. No issues. Paid under $60. The original did have two different sized hex bolts, T8 and T10. The replacement were all T8. I did mine while installing the downpipes so it was a no-brainer. Still a PITA to line up the pump 'key' to the engine, but with a mirror and carefully removing the old pump, I was able to get the old one off and new installed in under 30 minutes. I did not have any issues with my old unit, just one of those, "while I'm in there" moments.

[cannan]

This is good to know, thanks for posting the confirmation. I was literally shopping these last night on the ECS website.

Now just need to decide if I want to go ahead and do aftermarket downpipes and the vacuum pump at the same time or just go in from the top and do the vacuum pump on it's own.

[pearlpower]

OEM on right, new 11668649747 on the left.

[iansanderson]

Just a huge thank you for this post! Not only did I save about $450 buying 11668649747 vs. 1668605976, I can also confirm there is no need to remove bank 1 catalytic converter. Cost for the vacuum pump was about $55 from ECS Tuning and I laughed when I looked at the new pump. It literally has part number 8605976 stamped on it. Oh, BMW.

You'll need a deep 22mm oxygen sensor socket for the S63's sensors and I recommend buying a set of 1/4 drive deep-well E torx sockets to clear the down pipe for the buried screw on the pump. I found a set by Gearwrench on Amazon for about $20. Not sure how else I could have gotten that bastard out. A BMW tech let me borrow his E8 swivel, but it was too big. I used the deep-well E8 with a U-joint, and it was a perfect fit.

The one exhaust shield fastener you have to remove from underneath is a breeze and I ended up just sliding under the car to put it back in vs. driving back on ramps. You don't have to remove any under ride protection or shields.

Would also recommend cutting back the small vacuum line 1/2 inch or so as they can tend to split at the end from the heat.

Bonus: I managed to only break one plastic clip for an O2 sensor plug which is a miracle.

Thanks again and on to the next!

[handcn]

Originally Posted by iansanderson

Just a huge thank you for this post! Not only did I save about $450 buying 11668649747 vs. 1668605976, I can also confirm there is no need to remove bank 1 catalytic converter. Cost for the vacuum pump was about $55 from ECS Tuning and I laughed when I looked at the new pump. It literally has part number 8605976 stamped on it. Oh, BMW.

You'll need a deep 22mm oxygen sensor socket for the S63's sensors and I recommend buying a set of 1/4 drive deep-well E torx sockets to clear the down pipe for the buried screw on the pump. I found a set by Gearwrench on Amazon for about $20. Not sure how else I could have gotten that bastard out. A BMW tech let me borrow his E8 swivel, but it was too big. I used the deep-well E8 with a U-joint, and it was a perfect fit.

The one exhaust shield fastener you have to remove from underneath is a breeze and I ended up just sliding under the car to put it back in vs. driving back on ramps. You don't have to remove any under ride protection or shields.

Would also recommend cutting back the small vacuum line 1/2 inch or so as they can tend to split at the end from the heat.

Bonus: I managed to only break one plastic clip for an O2 sensor plug which is a miracle.

Thanks again and on to the next!

Nice job! I'm going to do the same thing