x35D Woes

[Inali]

Hi, new BMW owner here!

I recently bought a 2010 X5 XDrive 35D with what I thought was a vacuum leak putting it in limp mode. Great way to enter BMW ownership, I know. :P

Anyway, I eventually found out that the real issue was the SCR was clogged and made a lot of backpressure as a result. (Probably still has a vacuum leak, however!)

After finding out a replacement SCR was ~$3,500 USD plus labor to install, I decided to try and run a delete instead.

I paid tunemyeuro.com for a "Stage 2 Race" JR Auto tune with DPF/EGR/SCR/DEF delete. I sent off the ECU and got it back a bit later. Made the mistake of trying to start the car with the ECU plugs only partially connected due to my misunderstanding on how the connector latches work. Well it didn't start, no kidding. Reseated the ECU connectors and it fired up.

The codes I had after getting the ECU tuned: P2033, P20BD, P202A, P02CB.

I then had the SCR gutted rather than removed (can't afford a ~$1400 metal pipe), and the DPF "unplugged" according to my mechanic (OBD2 claims it's not unplugged...). Codes shown after this were: P2062, P242D, P2200, P0234. If I gave the vehicle some hard pulls, the dashboard claims the car goes into limp mode and to service it immediately, though it doesn't actually change how it drives, thus not actually limp mode.

I got annoyed with the tuner, assuming they did it wrong. They stated based on my ECU codes, maybe they gave me the Stage 2 non-delete rather than Stage 2 Race tune. I shipped off the ECU again. Got it back and they claimed they did nothing and only checked it, and it was fine. Made the mistake AGAIN of not fully seating the ECU plugs before trying to fire it up... Reseated the connections and turned it on. Now the FRM module was complaining it died. Seems this is a random issue with these older BMWs... Ugh.

Codes the ECU showed now, in BMW format: 480A, 4C8C, 4A27, 4121.

I removed the FRM and shipped it off for a repair to The-ECU-Pro.com. I drove the vehicle without the FRM during this process as I had to get to work. During this process I noticed that my check engine light never came on. It also now shows no pending or active codes. (OBD2 general scanner, I lost my access to my friends BMW scanner currently). This seems weird since I at minimum still have some sort of vacuum leak. I can tell since I can hear it, I get ~20.2MPG when barely pushing it, and it stutters sometimes like a vacuum leak. Why are there no more codes?

Got the FRM module back and it now seems to work, no more lighting issues. ECU now never shows any issues anymore even though the vehicle works like crap. What happened? My mechanic thinks I am crazy for assuming my check engine light and status is broken. Torque Pro on Android shows no codes and works fine for logging stats.

I downloaded BimmerCode and BimmerLink on Android using OBDLink LX and it shows my FRM has critical errors still, ugh!

I’m now at a loss. How do I find out what actually is wrong? How can my ECU no longer show me issues on scanning? Where do I go from here? I have a sneaking suspicion my mechanic I use doesn't know what he is talking about, is wrong about assuming I don't have a vacuum leak, and didn't actually properly unplug the correct sensors during the exhaust modification.

Please help!

[StradaRedlands]

Really sorry to read Inali :-(

I think you're at the point you need to find an BMW indy shop that does coding and knows their way around the M57. Maybe one near you, but you might need to go to the greater Boston area to find that unicorn of a shop. It's a specialty of a specialty, of a specialty.

[jbash87]

Sorry to hear about your experience. BMWs can be frustrating for even seasoned owners.

Unfortunately these issues are incredibly hard to diagnose over the internet. We're all mostly guessing from previous experience or googling your symptoms. A competent mechanic like StradaRedlands suggested is probably your best bet. BTW you have an M57 not an N57.

Sounds like you have multiple issues going on. You need to fix your vacuum leaks, clear codes, and see what comes back.

An SCR being clogged sounds suspect to me. DPFs can clog, for sure. Never heard of an SCR being clogged though.

What does "unplugged DPF" mean? If the DPF is clogged, which I suspect it is, then leaving it in place w/o gutting it will not fix anything.

[StradaRedlands]

Updated!!!

[Smonkbmw]

So I’m confused.

You’re running a delete tune but still have the DPF installed and I’m assuming all NOX, SCR sensors plugged in?

[wcs531]

So instead of repairing my FRM I just bought a used one and had to code it to my car with Protool using "Default Coding". I am not sure if Bimmerlink/Bimmercode has that capability but if it does I would probably try something like that on your current FRM even though its supposed to be your original FRM.

How old is the Battery in the car, and what voltage is the car showing in bimmerlink (off and running)? The FRM is very tempermental in these cars. I don't know if that would have anything to do with suppressing the check engine light, but troubleshooting with a bad battery is a wild goose chase.

I'm also confused on your DPF situation, is that gutted along with the SCR? If you have a tune for a delete, then your car wont be doing regens and I would assume the DPF will just become a plug. I believe you may be able to gut DPF and leave SCR but I doubt the opposite is possible.

[Inali]

Originally Posted by Smonkbmw

So I’m confused.

You’re running a delete tune but still have the DPF installed and I’m assuming all NOX, SCR sensors plugged in?

SCR is gutted and supposedly unplugged. SCR was clogged for sure, I saw it opened.

DPF is installed, not gutted, and supposedly the sensors are unplugged per the tune's requirements (but I think my mechanic is wrong and left some plugged in he didn't notice)

I couldn't afford a ~$1400 pipe to remove DPF and SCR. Seems WAY too expensive for a literal pipe. So I had my mechanic gut the SCR that was clogged and seal it back. Looks stock, no longer is clogged.

[Inali]

Originally Posted by Inali

SCR is gutted and supposedly unplugged. SCR was clogged for sure, I saw it opened.

DPF is installed, not gutted, and supposedly the sensors are unplugged per the tune's requirements (but I think my mechanic is wrong and left some plugged in he didn't notice)

I couldn't afford a ~$1400 pipe to remove DPF and SCR. Seems WAY too expensive for a literal pipe. So I had my mechanic gut the SCR that was clogged and seal it back. Looks stock, no longer is clogged.

Also I will be gutting the DPF as well down the road, soon, just I want the more annoying things like the vacuum leak and such resolved first. Stepping stones :P

[wcs531]

Also it would help to type out the descriptions from Bimmerlink along with the codes so people trying to help dont have to google everything. It looks like they are DPF and Battery related?

[wcs531]

Originally Posted by Inali

SCR is gutted and supposedly unplugged. SCR was clogged for sure, I saw it opened.

DPF is installed, not gutted, and supposedly the sensors are unplugged per the tune's requirements (but I think my mechanic is wrong and left some plugged in he didn't notice)

I couldn't afford a ~$1400 pipe to remove DPF and SCR. Seems WAY too expensive for a literal pipe. So I had my mechanic gut the SCR that was clogged and seal it back. Looks stock, no longer is clogged.

ATM kit is half that, and I think people have just gutted the factory DPF. Labor is another story.

I don't think the DPF sensors being plugged in or not are relevant to the tune, I think the tune would make the ECU/DDE just completely ignore the sensors whether they are plugged in or not.

The reason the DPF has sensors is because DPFs become clogged under normal operating conditions, and then the engine needs to "regen" or run at MUCH higher exhaust temperatures to burn off the diesel particulate that is clogging the the DPF. With your tune you've essentially removed the engines ability to regen(clear the DPF), which is just clogging itself more and more until it kills something else with the turbos probably being the first on the list.

[Inali]

Originally Posted by wcs531

Also it would help to type out the descriptions from Bimmerlink along with the codes so people trying to help dont have to google everything. It looks like they are DPF and Battery related?

Ah, good point.

Currently as of today, ECU still shows literally nothing over OBD2 on a normal scanner. Bimmerlink shows:

Transfer Box:
54C6: oil wear
55D0: CAN_MESSAGE_LENKRADWINKEL, C4
CF61: CAN_TIMEOUT_ENGINE_1, 1D0

Single-axle air suspension:
D704: K-CAN transceiver LOW

Car Access System:
D904: K_CAN_Leitungsfehler

Trunk Module:
E3C4: Physical bus error

Seat Module, Driver:
9E77: Error normalization SLV
E444: K-CAN: Bus line fault.

[wcs531]

Here is what I came up with for the codes you listed earlier.

480A - DPF blocked
4C8C - Exhaust back pressure sensor before turbine, plausibility
4A27 - Intelligenter Batterie Sensor
4121 - DDE Relay (?) If you do have low voltage this could just be something to do with that?

How many miles are on the car anyway? These cars need a decent amount of preventative maintenance and can get very expensive if not doing it yourself. I hate to say it but it may be best to cut your losses and sell the car, plenty of people buy project cars on the facebook group "North American BMW Diesel Owners Group"

[Inali]

Originally Posted by wcs531

Here is what I came up with for the codes you listed earlier.

480A - DPF blocked
4C8C - Exhaust back pressure sensor before turbine, plausibility
4A27 - Intelligenter Batterie Sensor
4121 - DDE Relay (?) If you do have low voltage this could just be something to do with that?

How many miles are on the car anyway? These cars need a decent amount of preventative maintenance and can get very expensive if not doing it yourself. I hate to say it but it may be best to cut your losses and sell the car, plenty of people buy project cars on the facebook group "North American BMW Diesel Owners Group"

133,000 miles. I am unsure if those codes are still feasible as I notated codes throughout the process and currently that doesn't show, but who knows... I have access to a shop level "Zeus" scanner tomorrow that should be able to read these codes again, I will update then.

[Inali]

I forgot to mention, I did have an old failing battery when I got the car. It has been replaced since. So I shouldn't have low voltage issues any longer.

[wcs531]

Originally Posted by Inali

I forgot to mention, I did have an old failing battery when I got the car. It has been replaced since. So I shouldn't have low voltage issues any longer.

It would still be smart to check voltages with engine off and on just to rule out issues. Bimmerlink should be able to do that.

Also was the new battery coded? I doubt it would cause issues, but could kill the new battery quicker. Bimmerlink/code can definitely do that.

[Inali]

Originally Posted by wcs531

It would still be smart to check voltages with engine off and on just to rule out issues. Bimmerlink should be able to do that.

Also was the new battery coded? I doubt it would cause issues, but could kill the new battery quicker. Bimmerlink/code can definitely do that.

It wasn't at first. I fixed it with BimmerCode/Link. My mechanic said he did it. I'm so done with him, clearly can't do anything right. Not only was the battery coded to the old size not the slightly larger replacement, it was still coded as lead acid instead of the AGM replacement. I love paying someone else to screw up...

[Smonkbmw]

Why do you think it has a vacuum leak? Are you sure you don’t have a boost leak? If the SCR was plugged, chances are the DPF is/was as well which can blow out seals and the problematic intercooler hoses.

But it is sounding more like you want answers about the FRM issue.

[RL18]

Why are you running a delete tune with a dpf?

You could very well need to refresh the entire vacuum system. You should not be running a dpf on a tune that codes out the dpf. If the dpf differential sensors are unplugged they would read 0 so obviously they are installed still. Plus if the mechanic didn’t pull the dpf then there is no way he would of been able to remove the sensors. If the scr is clogged then I wouldn’t be surprised if the dpf is also clogged also. Seems like you need a lot of maintenance done to this thing. Most mechanics are useless when it cones to these engines, you’re better of searching and reading through the threads on the m57.

Btw are you still running the egr?

[RL18]

Also the battery message is most likely from the battery install. You’re gonna need a new postive cable.

[Trainpilot]

I'm not trying to hijack this thread, rather I'm trying to avoid the bumps in the road that Inali hit. Is it possible to delete the DPF without paying for an expensive tune? Can I connect the delete pipe to the differential pressure sensor in a way that spoofs it in to thinking all is good? I started out planning on cleaning my DPF ('09 200+Kmi), but removing it was such a nasty job that I'm not sure I could get it back in. I have a delete pipe coming, and would like to avoid a costly tune. Plus in in Calif, so options are limited.