N63 Catch Can Install

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Parts List:

MUST HAVE'S:
(2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

(2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now if you want to do it on the cheap, just pick up some 5/8" and 1/2" heater hose and hose clamps and go to town. Will work just fine but wont be pretty...

To do it right with the -AN fittings, you will need the following:

(8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(4) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(1) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(1) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(1) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will do a full write up when time permits but basically look at the pics above and you can see how you must cut the original fittings and then screw in the 3/8 NPT to -8An adapters (it will self thread, just lube up with some oil, fitment is super tight and perfect. You will need to drill and tap the inlet on the pressure value and screw in the 1/8" npt to -6an. Then assemble the hoses the proper length to wherever you want to have the cans at. They are super small so multiple mounting locations. Oh and say goodbye to you engine cover, wont fit with these hoses on NOBODY should have the heat-retaining POS on anyway.... BTW, ebay has better prices on everything, I just ordered from Amazon because #iamanimpatientbastard

[Sophisticated Redneck]

One more thing, I recommend taping the oil fill cap (notice two holes drilled in underside of cap so vacuum can reach gauge) to read the CC pressures and hook up a Vacuum/boost gauge and adjust your valves so your around -8 -10 psi (anymore then that and your engine will start sucking air through its front crank seal and sound like a slipping belt being murdered plus when you get around -14psi, shit gets weird, like oil winding up around the crank due to lack of air resistance so keep it -10 to -8psi is the happy spot at Idle. then just pull off the gauge and cap it with a rubber vacuum cap when your done.

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

One more thing, I recommend taping the oil fill cap (notice two holes drilled in underside of cap so vacuum can reach gauge) to read the CC pressures and hook up a Vacuum/boost gauge and adjust your valves so your around -8 -10 psi (anymore then that and your engine will start sucking air through its front crank seal and sound like a slipping belt being murdered plus when you get around -14psi, shit gets weird, like oil winding up around the crank due to lack of air resistance so keep it -10 to -8psi is the happy spot at Idle. then just pull off the gauge and cap it with a rubber vacuum cap when your done.

Nice I have a second oil cap that I will enlist just for that. Please start a thread for the S63 if you can, I know you don't have one, but sounds like you know your way around it as well? I'm still lost on where to tap for the intake parts and what to do with the crosspipe.

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Hmmm, guess its for the secondary stage of the CCV system, did they do away with the flapper valve in it? Also the port hole is HUGE, the reduction in air velocity over such a gap would decrease the scavenging effect one would think.

I didn't notice them doing away with the flapper, but I saw Vargas has a billet replacement. It says it's for the N54, but the flapper looks the same on the N54. Think we can use it?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vargas-t...-flapper-dele/

Also, I'm hoping to find all billet parts, and ideas for a billet pressure valve vs brass?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Here is where I would cut and insert the 3/8NPT to -8AN. This allows you to keep the crossover pipe. This is assuming the internal tube dimension is perfect for threading in 3/8" NPT as it is on the N63. So if when you are threading them in they are not super tight and perfect like the N63 let me know and will find suitable replacement. I am betting its the same though.

I know you have the adapters for the intake manifold tube but I put the cutline in there for those that dont. Hook up the Vacuum valve to the center port on the Catch Can, then the intake manifold connection to the Vacuum valve, your Valve cover connection to one of the side ports on the Catch can and the second stage scavenger/crossover tube connection to the other side port and you are good to go!

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

I didn't notice them doing away with the flapper, but I saw Vargas has a billet replacement. It says it's for the N54, but the flapper looks the same on the N54. Think we can use it?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vargas-t...-flapper-dele/

Also, I'm hoping to find all billet parts, and ideas for a billet pressure valve vs brass?

Unfortunately we have to have the flapper, without it the vacuum generated from the intake manifold connection will just pull air from the secondary scavenging connection and not put the crankcase under vacuum. Honestly the Flapper is just a really freaking ugly one-way check valve. I bet there is a one-way check valve out there with an -AN connection on it already. Then you could use the Vargas Flapper delete along with the one-way check valve.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Found one! This would work: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/150023/10002/-1

You would need to tweak its spring so its bascally just sitting there, stock it doesnt open until 5psi and the Scavenging system at best does -1 to -2 psi

This has got me thinking about doing it to mine. Those flappers are so damn ugly and honestly probably why BMW tries to hide it with the engine cover

[9vapors]

So those cylinders that have the check valves in them, we don't need those anymore?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

So those cylinders that have the check valves in them, we don't need those anymore?

Not quite sure I understand. The only stock check-valve we are taking out is the one located in the PCV tree right in the connection to the Intake Manifold tube because it sucks and is set to limit the CC vacuum to -.8 yes -0.8 PSI and thus why everyone's car smokes as soon as there is a little wear on the valve guides. This is replaced by the adjustable vacuum valve so we can set it to a proper -8 to -10psi that also serves as a one-way check valve (I've tested it to 120PSI so it will handle anything we throw at it).

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Not quite sure I understand. The only stock check-valve we are taking out is the one located in the PCV tree right in the connection to the Intake Manifold tube because it sucks and is set to limit the CC vacuum to -.8 yes -0.8 PSI and thus why everyone's car smokes as soon as there is a little wear on the valve guides. This is replaced by the adjustable vacuum valve so we can set it to a proper -8 to -10psi that also serves as a one-way check valve (I've tested it to 120PSI so it will handle anything we throw at it).

Cool, yeah that's what I meant, I thought there were two in the tree, like in this pic...

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

Cool, yeah that's what I meant, I thought there were two in the tree, like in this pic...

Oh wow, interesting, I didnt know the passenger side had a different setup, I assumed they where identical...I will have to study this more and will get back to you. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for some parts, I'll ask them for the S63 version of the CCV tubes so I can study them in person and get back to you...I'm curious as to why BMW did it this way...

[9vapors]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Oh wow, interesting, I didnt know the passenger side had a different setup, I assumed they where identical...I will have to study this more and will get back to you. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for some parts, I'll ask them for the S63 version of the CCV tubes so I can study them in person and get back to you...I'm curious as to why BMW did it this way...

I vaguely remember reading because it had a check valve for regular running pressure and then the second covered for boost? I'll see what I can research as well. I wish I was near you and could just come over and check it out. I'm hoping to eventually have a kit like yours.

I think the passenger side is mostly just pass through... the thing is because vacuum only comes from one side of the engine, it seems like the two cans would need to connect, like the crosspipe line. Or we need one can with 4 lines in...

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

I vaguely remember reading because it had a check valve for regular running pressure and then the second covered for boost? I'll see what I can research as well. I wish I was near you and could just come over and check it out. I'm hoping to eventually have a kit like yours.

I think the passenger side is mostly just pass through... the thing is because vacuum only comes from one side of the engine, it seems like the two cans would need to connect, like the crosspipe line. Or we need one can with 4 lines in...

It looks like there is two intake hoses so there should be two sources of vacuum just like the n63. The crossover tube connection on th passenger side is what is throwing me off a bit. I'll be at the dealer today and study it and come up with a solution for ya. I'm going to have to study the S63 some more, it was my understanding that it was nearly identical to the n63 except for upgraded pistons/connecting rods and turbos/intake. I don't quite understand what the purpose of the crossover tube would do since we are only talking less then a -1 psi of stock CC pressure unless the S63 is set lower then the N63. If you could hook up a vacuum gauge to your engine that would be facinating to see what the stock S63 Crankcase pressure is. I've assumed it was less then a psi like the N63 but perhaps it's set lower for racing purposes....would explain why th s63s don't usually smoke as bad as the Ns

[Dave00]

Any update on this for the S63 motor? I'm very curious on the implementation of a catch can setup as I've got very low mileage on my 13' X5M (10K miles) and want to keep the oil out of the intake to keep the intake valve deposits at bay now and not have to worry about the buildup down the road. Any advise or write-ups would be wonderful.

[RichardH]

Originally Posted by Dave00

Any update on this for the S63 motor? I'm very curious on the implementation of a catch can setup as I've got very low mileage on my 13' X5M (10K miles) and want to keep the oil out of the intake to keep the intake valve deposits at bay now and not have to worry about the buildup down the road. Any advise or write-ups would be wonderful.

Interested in the S63 motor setup as well

[TheWick113]

This thread has been super helpful!
Any chance you have a write up?
I'm making plans to do this over a weekend, but would to see how you did the intake manifold side.

I just installed the CPG Performance CAI and used some heater hose to connect the forward facing inlets to the CCV system... I'm embarrassed to look at it and to make it worse, I have that horrible whine at idle, like a belt is slipping! Not the bets look for a 750Li!!!

[_Olek_]

Hi Everyone,
I appreciate the work you've done!
I was researching creating a catch can for my 2013 550i.
From your posts, everything sounds straightforward. The only part that confused me was adjusting the one-way valve. The way I understand it the valve should have zero resistance(of course it will always be some) when air goes one way and should block any air trying to go the opposite direction. I didn't get the point about "limiting the back pressure to -8 to -10psi." Could someone clarify this moment, please?

[JellyStyle]

Originally Posted by OLekBMW

Hi Everyone,
I appreciate the work you've done!
I was researching creating a catch can for my 2013 550i.
From your posts, everything sounds straightforward. The only part that confused me was adjusting the one-way valve. The way I understand it the valve should have zero resistance(of course it will always be some) when air goes one way and should block any air trying to go the opposite direction. I didn't get the point about "limiting the back pressure to -8 to -10psi." Could someone clarify this moment, please?

Troy is making a new CCV kit, should be out in a week or two, once its out, i would get those missing items from him or the whole kit, whatever suits you.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Update to this:

After I complete my intake manifold production (will be wrapped up by Mid October) I am going to produce a complete plug and play catch can solution for the E70 that anyone can install. Below are pics of its development and install on a F02. The E70 version will look nearly identical save for a updated base mount. The ugly brass pressure valve is now incorporated into the adapter for the lower CCV line for a much cleaner installation.

Logo and anodizing colors can be changed be request. Cost will not be cheap, approx. 290 as machining and making these expensive and labor intensive. As mentioned before, it will come pre-made and plug- and play install nearly anyone can do. More updates to come next month after intake production is complete.

[_Olek_]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

I set mine so it actually opens at less then 1psi negative back pressure by cutting the spring and making it a bit shorter and thenadjusted the spring tension (you do this by how far you turn the valve to seat the spring in it) to limit the back pressure to -8 to -10psi. Anymore then -10 psi and the front engine crank seal will start sucking air and sound like a slipping belt, plus -8 to -10 is a safe bet anyway. When you start closing in on -14psi and more, strange things can happen since there will be virtually no air resistance inside the engine , like oil getting wound up in the crank if there are not crank scrappers and actually lose HP so keeping it under 10 is a safe bet.

As for blocking boost, I have tested it to 120PSI on an air compressor with zero blowby so it will handle whatever we throw at it.

Please, correct me where I'm wrong. The check valve allows air to go in one direction, preventing air from going in the opposite direction. You are saying that your valve opens at -1 ps negative pressure. That allows air to go in one direction. What I didn't get is what you set to be at 8psi. Is it the pressure needed to open the valve and allow air to go? If so, what did you set to be 1 psi? Sorry, I'm confused. Could someone please explain?

[NoVA_X5M_98M3]

Sign me up, Troy!

[JellyStyle]

Latest update, cleaner more stronger CCV Flap Connections that Troy designed.
Troy can decide but some of you might have to send him your OEMs as the China copies do not work well; we tried them.. We can source OEM for

11157646086 Connecting Line 111060 $72.82 1 $72.82
11157646087 Connecting Line 111060 $72.82 1 $72.82

But if you want to have Troy send you the parts, and you make them yourself with cutting and tapping, that will likely be the best route.

In a week or so, Troy can finalize who wants the CCV kits etc. you will want to use new or rather new flaps so you don't have a failure.

Joe