Something every X5M and 50i owner should check.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

The N63, S63, N63TU, and S63TU used in the E70, F15, & F85 are unique in that they all share the same oil pump and drive chain design up to the 2018 model year. Unlike the S63 & S63TU used in the M5, this chain drive does not have a tensioner so it is very likely and almost certain the drive chain will eventually become loose and is something that should be checked every 80-100K miles. I recently checked mine after reading some stories of engine failure and was lucky I did, it was more then 10 times out of spec and about to fall off.

BMW made access to the oil pump and chain adjuster pretty straight forward. It will only add an extra hour or so to your normal oil change time. As a bonus, the lower pan gasket that is notorious for leaking as these engines age is replaced as part of the process. Below are instructions, parts and tools needed plus a short video on the adjustment procedure.



Parts Needed (parts are the same for all engines and all platforms):
(1) Lower Pan Gasket # 11137566808 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x5-11137566808
(25) Oil Pan Bolts # 07129909333 (you can save money and use Loctite 242 or other removable Loctite on old bolts) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mw-07129909333
(6) Reinforcement plate bolts (Do not reuse, these are one time use only) #33306772888 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-33306772888
Gasket Tack: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8006.../dp/B000HBNV9E



Tools Needed:

Torque Wrench
Torque Wrench Angle Gauge
Cordless Ratchet (highly recommended, 31 bolts to remove and reinstall)
3/8" extensions
8mm long reach hex socket
T45 Torx socket
E10 External Torx socket
16mm Socket

Instructions (short video below with more details on chain adjustment):


1 - Drive up on 4 ramps or jack up truck as level as possible.
2 - Drain Oil, Reinstall oil drain plug.
3 - Remove the Reinforcment plate.



4 - Remove Oil level sensor connector(Fig.1)
5- Remove the 25 E10 Torx bolts (Fig.2) holding on the lower engine pan (Fig.3).



6 - Remove the oil pump rear T45 torx bolt (Fig.2)



7 - Tighten chain adjuster using 8mm hex socket (see video for more info)
8 - Adjust to 10-12mm total (5-6mm side to side) chain movement.
9 - Reinstall Oil Pump T45 Torx bolt, tighten to 27Nm.
10 - Clean lower oil pan and Install new gasket, (ridged side faces towards engine), use gasket tack to keep in place.
11 - Replace 25 E10 Torx bolts with new or apply removable Loctite 242 to threads if reusing the old bolts and install lower pan. Tighten in standard crisscross pattern all bolts first to 10Nm, then 24Nm.
12 - Replace oil filter & refill oil.
13 - Install reinforcement plate and Tighten new bolts to 56Nm, then use Torque Angle Gauge and further tighten and additional 90 degrees.

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

The N63, S63, N63TU, and S63TU used in the E70, F15, & F85 are unique in that they all share the same oil pump and drive chain design up to the 2018 model year. Unlike the S63 & S63TU used in the M5, this chain drive does not have a tensioner so it is very likely and almost certain the drive chain will eventually become loose and is something that should be checked every 80-100K miles. I recently checked mine after reading some stories of engine failure and was lucky I did, it was more then 10 times out of spec and about to fall off.

BMW made access to the oil pump and chain adjuster pretty straight forward. It will only add an extra hour or so to your normal oil change time. As a bonus, the lower pan gasket that is notorious for leaking as these engines age is replaced as part of the process. Below are instructions, parts and tools needed plus a short video on the adjustment procedure.



Parts Needed (parts are the same for all engines and all platforms):
(1) Lower Pan Gasket # 11137566808 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x5-11137566808
(25) Oil Pan Bolts # 07129909333 (you can save money and use Loctite 242 or other removable Loctite on old bolts) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mw-07129909333
(6) Reinforcement plate bolts (Do not reuse, these are one time use only) #33306772888 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-33306772888
Gasket Tack: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8006.../dp/B000HBNV9E



Tools Needed:

Torque Wrench
Torque Wrench Angle Gauge
Cordless Ratchet (highly recommended, 31 bolts to remove and reinstall)
3/8" extensions
8mm long reach hex socket
T45 Torx socket
E10 External Torx socket
16mm Socket

Instructions (short video below with more details on chain adjustment):


1 - Drive up on 4 ramps or jack up truck as level as possible.
2 - Drain Oil, Reinstall oil drain plug.
3 - Remove the Reinforcment plate.



4 - Remove Oil level sensor connector(Fig.1)
5- Remove the 25 E10 Torx bolts (Fig.2) holding on the lower engine pan (Fig.3).



6 - Remove the oil pump rear T45 torx bolt (Fig.2)



7 - Tighten chain adjuster using 8mm hex socket (see video for more info)
8 - Adjust to 10-12mm total (5-6mm side to side) chain movement.
9 - Reinstall Oil Pump T45 Torx bolt, tighten to 27Nm.
10 - Clean lower oil pan and Install new gasket, (ridged side faces towards engine), use gasket tack to keep in place.
11 - Replace 25 E10 Torx bolts with new or apply removable Loctite 242 to threads if reusing the old bolts and install lower pan. Tighten in standard crisscross pattern all bolts first to 10Nm, then 24Nm.
12 - Replace oil filter & refill oil.
13 - Install reinforcement plate and Tighten new bolts to 56Nm, then use Torque Angle Gauge and further tighten and additional 90 degrees.

Great writeup!

Im wondering though, is it at all possible to retrofit the S63TU style updated Oil pump?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

Great writeup!

Im wondering though, is it at all possible to retrofit the S63TU style updated Oil pump?

Thanks =)

So for the S63TU used in the X5 (M5 gets completely different pump), BMW used this same style pump on the X5M all the way up to 2018. There were several internal changes and the latest pump part number is: 11417643256. It should bolt right in all previous gen S63 and N63 engines as it supersedes their part number.

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Thanks =)

So for the S63TU used in the X5 (M5 gets completely different pump), BMW used this same style pump on the X5M all the way up to 2018. There were several internal changes and the latest pump part number is: 11417643256. It should bolt right in all previous gen S63 and N63 engines as it supersedes their part number.

Sweet

[Autobacs]

FYI when I removed the oil pan the extension I had for the T45 socket was hitting one of the bolts for the timing gear, preventing inserting the socket to the T45 bolt. What I did was momentarily turned the engine over (MAKE SURE IT DOES NOT START) just to rotate it and got the timing gear bolt out of the way.


Great writeup, Thanks!

[pjfox23]

Bump - great advice. I just picked up a 2012 X5M with 80xxx miles on it. Ordered from parts list in this thread - all need parts stated. Check this chain today and it was way loose. What a terrible design. I don't suspect I'll have to check it but every 80000 miles, but...be ware. Thanks for the heads up.

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by Autobacs

FYI when I removed the oil pan the extension I had for the T45 socket was hitting one of the bolts for the timing gear, preventing inserting the socket to the T45 bolt. What I did was momentarily turned the engine over (MAKE SURE IT DOES NOT START) just to rotate it and got the timing gear bolt out of the way.


Great writeup, Thanks!

Would turning the crank with a big ass breaker bar be safer?

[TTV8M]

Thanks for this detail. Wish I had done this many years ago when my s63 engine blew. First thing I noticed when I dropped the oil pan was the gear shattered in 2 pieces from the oil pump

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

The N63, S63, N63TU, and S63TU used in the E70, F15, & F85 are unique in that they all share the same oil pump and drive chain design up to the 2018 model year. Unlike the S63 & S63TU used in the M5, this chain drive does not have a tensioner so it is very likely and almost certain the drive chain will eventually become loose and is something that should be checked every 80-100K miles. I recently checked mine after reading some stories of engine failure and was lucky I did, it was more then 10 times out of spec and about to fall off.

BMW made access to the oil pump and chain adjuster pretty straight forward. It will only add an extra hour or so to your normal oil change time. As a bonus, the lower pan gasket that is notorious for leaking as these engines age is replaced as part of the process. Below are instructions, parts and tools needed plus a short video on the adjustment procedure.



Parts Needed (parts are the same for all engines and all platforms):
(1) Lower Pan Gasket # 11137566808 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x5-11137566808
(25) Oil Pan Bolts # 07129909333 (you can save money and use Loctite 242 or other removable Loctite on old bolts) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mw-07129909333
(6) Reinforcement plate bolts (Do not reuse, these are one time use only) #33306772888 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-33306772888
Gasket Tack: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8006.../dp/B000HBNV9E



Tools Needed:

Torque Wrench
Torque Wrench Angle Gauge
Cordless Ratchet (highly recommended, 31 bolts to remove and reinstall)
3/8" extensions
8mm long reach hex socket
T45 Torx socket
E10 External Torx socket
16mm Socket

Instructions (short video below with more details on chain adjustment):


1 - Drive up on 4 ramps or jack up truck as level as possible.
2 - Drain Oil, Reinstall oil drain plug.
3 - Remove the Reinforcment plate.



4 - Remove Oil level sensor connector(Fig.1)
5- Remove the 25 E10 Torx bolts (Fig.2) holding on the lower engine pan (Fig.3).



6 - Remove the oil pump rear T45 torx bolt (Fig.2)



7 - Tighten chain adjuster using 8mm hex socket (see video for more info)
8 - Adjust to 10-12mm total (5-6mm side to side) chain movement.
9 - Reinstall Oil Pump T45 Torx bolt, tighten to 27Nm.
10 - Clean lower oil pan and Install new gasket, (ridged side faces towards engine), use gasket tack to keep in place.
11 - Replace 25 E10 Torx bolts with new or apply removable Loctite 242 to threads if reusing the old bolts and install lower pan. Tighten in standard crisscross pattern all bolts first to 10Nm, then 24Nm.
12 - Replace oil filter & refill oil.
13 - Install reinforcement plate and Tighten new bolts to 56Nm, then use Torque Angle Gauge and further tighten and additional 90 degrees.

[Autobacs]

Originally Posted by TTV8M

Would turning the crank with a big ass breaker bar be safer?

It would be in the sense that there would be absolutely no chance for the engine to fire up at all and run without oil. as much as that is unlikely to happen unless you kept on pressing the ignition button and kept pressure on the brake pedal.

[TTV8M]

I could see that happening to the average Joe or Jane. "Why isn't the car starting". As the keep pressing the button, and then I'm visualizing the Pistons scraping to a halt inside the block

[Lunker325]

Thanks for sharing this, had no idea this was a potential problem until I saw this post. I did mine this past weekend when changing the oil and it was as loose as in the video. Surprised it can stay on the oil pump gear being that loose. Had no issues getting it done, great write up!