e36bmer's... e70bmer - X5M

[e36bmer]

Originally Posted by frankenm

Beautiful truck you have ... terrible this happened.

If you haven't already I would talk to an attorney right away since that is quite a bit of water damage no reason they shouldn't cover the cost to replace the entire dash and iDrive interface since it is completely ruined and waterlogged, especially if you have before/after photos.

Things like this is why I get don't like anyone touching my cars.

I agree, I never let anyone else work on my car, aside from tint. That may change now though. It is just that I have tinted a few cars and it never comes out well. It just takes more patience than I have... kinda like painting.

My gf and I were talking. She thinks I just have terrible luck with cars. After going through it, nearly every car I've had has had some form of serious or catastrophic damage that was not directly my fault. This is spanning about 10 cars and 15 years. Including the loaner I just got from taking my X5M in for recalls. http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=20585592

So, on to my experience at the dealer. I went to BMW Houston North, to avoid BMW Midtown, as I've had poor experiences there and so did another forum member recently. They did have a loaner, only a week out and didn't argue about any of the recalls on the car. Skipping the whole loaner sunroof incident: when I got the car back, they said they did the injector replacement and crank case vent tube. They said that the recall only covered the center vent tube, but my side tubes were leaking and they recommend I replace them for a low sum of $1499. I said, "no thanks" I'll pay a hundred and do them myself. However, while driving home I noticed that the car was pretty low on power and making significantly more turbo boost noise than before.

Fast forward to a few days later, I get the chance to have a look in there. They didn't replace the screw on the drivers turbo inlet... so that had backed off. Also, the driver side vent hose was completely broken in half and just hanging there. It was sitting in a spot that made it very obvious that someone just stuck it down there after breaking it. Long story short, I can tell with 99.9% certainty that the way the intake hose clamps were positioned, they would have needed to remove only the driver turbo inlet and it would have been a pain to put back in... so they must have just said F-it. Oh yeah.. they also left some blue tape on the injector lines, which I guess shows me that they were paying attention to that part of the install. However, something tells me that is not supposed to be left on there permanently.

[racermp]

darn dude that sux. dealers suk

[frankenm]

To be fair those inlet bolts are a fucking impossible squeeze to get to

$1500 to replace these not even $100 worth parts ... I just don't get why they charge so much damn money.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11157589992/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...989/ES1304955/

I'm surprised ur truck was even running with the broken vent pipe like that ... such a shame this kind of crap happens at BMW dealerships

[e36bmer]

Originally Posted by frankenm

To be fair those inlet bolts are a fucking impossible squeeze to get to

$1500 to replace these not even $100 worth parts ... I just don't get why they charge so much damn money.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11157589992/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...989/ES1304955/

I'm surprised ur truck was even running with the broken vent pipe like that ... such a shame this kind of crap happens at BMW dealerships

Yeah, I've already ordered that, along with the intake ducts, which are awfully expensive. I also ordered some accessory belts and those don't look fun to replace at all. Looks like I'll be breaking the engine bay down while I replace all of this, pull the downpipes, etc.

[e36bmer]

I did a little work over the weekend, fixed some things that the dealership broke and changed out spark plugs. While putting the downpipes back in, I went ahead and tried to do a little exhaust wrap and turbo blanket on. The turbine housings are so small that one of the smallest turbo blankets I had pretty much wraps around both. It's a tight fit once I put the OEM heat shield on, but it doesn't look like anything binds up in there.

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by e36bmer

I did a little work over the weekend, fixed some things that the dealership broke and changed out spark plugs. While putting the downpipes back in, I went ahead and tried to do a little exhaust wrap and turbo blanket on. The turbine housings are so small that one of the smallest turbo blankets I had pretty much wraps around both. It's a tight fit once I put the OEM heat shield on, but it doesn't look like anything binds up in there.

What size turbo blanket is that? The turbos are MGT22. The only company I've found that sells t22 blankets is DEI and they're $170 each. I went with the thermal zero t25 blankets but they look massive out of the box. I'm certain the inside diameter/width is appropriate but the exterior doesn't appear as though it will fit in the space. I need to grab a lambda wrench before actually trying it out since I can't measure the turbos with the heat shield on.

Using some photoshop measuring at scale the turbine housing is 4.25" diameter so 13.35" circumference. Exterior space available for a blanket is 5.25" diameter x 3" width with a 1.5" tail to fit around the wastegate actuator. This would be a 16.5" circumference. The smallest I can squeeze the T25 blanket is 5.75" diameter x 3" width with a 2" tail and 20" circumference. Doesn't look like it will work, but may try to just fit one of the blankets over the whole thing like you did. Can't return test fitted blankets so will do the actual measurements first this evening.

PTP does the full blanket to cover everything, but at 2.5 times the cost of 2 normal blankets I'm not sure if it's worth it.

[e36bmer]

Originally Posted by jandref321

What size turbo blanket is that? The turbos are MGT22. The only company I've found that sells t22 blankets is DEI and they're $170 each. I went with the thermal zero t25 blankets but they look massive out of the box. I'm certain the inside diameter/width is appropriate but the exterior doesn't appear as though it will fit in the space. I need to grab a lambda wrench before actually trying it out since I can't measure the turbos with the heat shield on.

Using some photoshop measuring at scale the turbine housing is 4.25" diameter so 13.35" circumference. Exterior space available for a blanket is 5.25" diameter x 3" width with a 1.5" tail to fit around the wastegate actuator. This would be a 16.5" circumference. The smallest I can squeeze the T25 blanket is 5.75" diameter x 3" width with a 2" tail and 20" circumference. Doesn't look like it will work, but may try to just fit one of the blankets over the whole thing like you did. Can't return test fitted blankets so will do the actual measurements first this evening.

PTP does the full blanket to cover everything, but at 2.5 times the cost of 2 normal blankets I'm not sure if it's worth it.

I picked up some generic ones off ebay. The title was "GT25/GT28/GT35 SM/MEDIUM TURBO TURBOCHARGER STEEL MESH HEAT SHIELD WRAP BLANKET" I thought I'd use them both, but ended up cutting one up a little to more lay on top of the turbos and wrap around slightly. This kept the shield away from the wastegates and should help keep the heat from getting into the engine bay. I had thought I would take temperature samples before and after, but I'm lazy and never did. However, with the downpipes de-catted, I can now lay my hand on the engine cover, it was wayyyy too hot before.

[e36bmer]

Hmm... What else have I done recently?

BOV Sound Mod! haha, after thinking about it, there are no sensors requiring a recirculating BOV. So, I capped the hoses and unplugged them to see if it would sound cool. Confirmed, it sounds like an open air BOV would sound, even though it may look a little unrefined.







I also bought a can of touch up paint and clear from eBay. I painted my door handles that had been rubbed dry of paint and did the front reflectors and side markers. Looks great in person, though my pic of the front marker may look a little off.





I ordered those Kinugawa compressor wheels and they look good enough and all. I've rebuilt turbos before, so the process is easy enough. It's the getting to the turbos that I'm just waiting for a time to do it. I don't have a 2nd car to drive around right now while the X is under the knife, so who knows if I'll ever get to it.

[JoeyBimX5din]

Nice M. I feel the same way about Cayenne's also. Ugly, but the specs are nice. My wife likes them, so maybe in the future, she'll get one

I feel like you may be one of the only people here that is roll on my level of cheapness.

I do have the leg up of being an actual paid vehicle technician though. I am not sure how many folks rolling in X5's fit that category, but I bet its not many. I could be wrong.

[m5james]

Originally Posted by e36bmer

Hmm... What else have I done recently?

BOV Sound Mod! haha, after thinking about it, there are no sensors requiring a recirculating BOV. So, I capped the hoses and unplugged them to see if it would sound cool. Confirmed, it sounds like an open air BOV would sound, even though it may look a little unrefined.

Someone posted a YouTube video of how they did this. I've read that the vehicle expects to see the air coming in from the recirc and would cause a momentary lean condition but who knows for sure. I've wanted to try it anyways since I wanna hear the sound more than I do already due to having an intake.

Originally Posted by e36bmer

I ordered those Kinugawa compressor wheels and they look good enough and all. I've rebuilt turbos before, so the process is easy enough. It's the getting to the turbos that I'm just waiting for a time to do it. I don't have a 2nd car to drive around right now while the X is under the knife, so who knows if I'll ever get to it.

Once again me and the YouTube videos...I've watched ones where dudes swapped them out in their F350, Duramaxs, etc and made it look stupid easy using just an impact gun to knock the bolt loose and not even needing to remove the turbo itself. I've looked at those wheels myself, there's even a thread about them. I've written Turbo Labs of America about them doing a stage 2 rebuild because yet again the YouTube, but they've got TONS of rebuild videos. I don't know what Pure is doing different than anyone else, but if TLOA is doing both wheels and machining for $1200 vs Pure being like $6k, are we really getting $4800 worth of additional performance? Seeing as you've done this before, I'm very curious how these work out for you.

[m5james]

Found video. I've got JB4 installed so maybe I should run a log with the BOV's disconnected and confirm if it messes with the AFR or driveability. Have you noticed anything?

[e36bmer]

Originally Posted by m5james

Found video. I've got JB4 installed so maybe I should run a log with the BOV's disconnected and confirm if it messes with the AGE or driveability. Have you noticed anything?

I haven't noticed any issue or anything different. On a vehicle with a MAF sensor, you'd see a temporary rich spot, but there is no sensing of the air mass until after it goes through the intercoolers. I'd put my certainty of this having no ill affect at around 99%.

Also, since automatics stay in boost through shifts, you really only get any noise when you get on throttle and let off quickly. I found in my normal driving, I typically don't hear anything.

[e36bmer]

My rear hatch and B-Pillars have been creaking so bad, I have no idea what took me so long to get to this. I adjusted the rear hatch bump stops out a turn and it got rid of about 80% of the creaking from my rear. Then, I pulled my B-Pillars out to put some felt tape around them and see if that would fix those from making constant cracking noises while driving.

So, first, I went to the back hatch


Pryed this little rubber cover off


Then, unscrewed this about a turn. Boom, 80% of the rattling from the rear hatch: gone.





Next, my B-Pillars make a single cracking sound every time I enter, exit, start or stop motion. I found that if I gave it a good elbow, it would stop for 20min or so. Pretty much like what my wife does to me when I'm snoring.


With your hands, pull from the outside in and the vent surround comes off. This reveals 3 screws, those will be removed next.



The lower part comes out first and a plastic pry-tool helps here. There are two tabs on the very edges of this piece on both sides, so it may help to pull the rubber surround and give that a little leverage as well, but I just pulled straight out and nothing broke.


This is what comes off. You can see the top has tabs that slide under the upper piece. I've used some felt tape around what I hope are some key rubbing areas. Also, take note of the little tab at the very bottom, on both sides. I can see this potentially breaking on an older vehicle. So, take care to pry this out some when snapping the bottom off.


Also, for some strange reason my vents were messed up. This made it really easy to see the issue and fix that right up.


A final bit of felt tape on both sides as the vent goes back in.


Slide it in, top side first, then line up the bottom and give it a pound with your hand.


Got it in place and then, just need to clean up the rubber trim surround and make sure those tabs on the outside/bottom of the trim are in place.


And in only a few minutes, I got rid of about 90% of the random sounds from my E70 X5 when driving around.

[boneca]

how did u figure out where the creaking sounds is coming from? I have some noise as well, I was thinking it was due to rear shocks but I ruled that out already

[e36bmer]

Originally Posted by boneca

how did u figure out where the creaking sounds is coming from? I have some noise as well, I was thinking it was due to rear shocks but I ruled that out already

I had a friend climb around, listening and holding different panels as I drove through town and one specific road that is a nightmare.

[boneca]

Originally Posted by e36bmer

I had a friend climb around, listening and holding different panels as I drove through town and one specific road that is a nightmare.

thanks for suggestion
I just need to find a friend who'll be willing to do this for me

[socale39]

I've noticed a lot of plastic like freaking when making a turn. Almost sound like the tailgate plastic. I've been meaning to get into it and felt tape a bunch of areas. Were you having a similar sound?

[m5james]

Bump for getting those compressor wheels installed :-)

[e36bmer]

Originally Posted by m5james

Bump for getting those compressor wheels installed :-)

haha... Ok, ok. The struts for my M5 should be here today. I'll throw those on tomorrow and get to the compressor wheels soon, maybe next week. I wanted to get a dyno before and after, but went to the street with one of those phone dyno apps. It really isn't consistent though. Decisions...decisions


images of up

[m5james]

Agreed, I'm just not willing to pony up $800 for the Racelogic that I might use a handful of times. I posted on Facebook about seeing if I could borrow one locally but got no replies.

[e36bmer]

I decided to go ahead and get to the dyno. I couldn't figure out where to find a spot to get a boost reading. I do plan to have methanol injection eventually, so I tapped a couple spots on the charge pipe and put a nipple to get some boost readings during the dyno. Here is that process.

I took off all of the hose clamps, unplugged the BPVs and took off the one 10mm bolt that holds the chargepipe on. This whole process probably took 1hr from start to finish.




I decided to drill right here, as it should be out of the way of the normal flow of the turbo and it looked like a good flat spot, not obstructing anything. Also, easy to get to when the charge pipe is mounted on the engine.




Buttoned up with some new hose clamps and ready to go. Plug in one side and nipple for boost reading on the other.





So far, I have a Velos Tune, K&N Filters and de-kitty'd. It was probably pulling some timing,. When it gets into boost, there are fluctuations of about 40ft-lb and a little fluctuation in boost. Maybe the tune is a bit aggressive. I was actually impressed that boost (Green Line) seems to keep increasing nearly through redline.

[boneca]

^ that's pretty cool, I'm planning to do dyno on my as well!
unless I'm reading the chart wrong I was expecting to see higher numbers with Velos!