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      12-16-2013, 09:47 AM   #1
nardoyno
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2007 4.8i fails to start when Cold

My vehicle is a 2007 X5 4.8i Sport package. It has a bizarre problem that my mechanic has yet to resolve. When the outside temperature drops below ~36F and I get a snow flake indicator on the dash, the car will not start. The car cranks and cranks and cranks but fails to start. After repeating the process for 5-6 times the car will intermittently try to start but idle rough and die. if I continue repeating the process for 10-15 minutes, sometimes the car will start and run perfect. The colder the temperature the worse the problem. In warm temperatures the vehicle has no problem starting or running at all. Mechanic replaced the fuel pump and the cam shaft position indicator and neither had any effect on the problem. After the last trip to the shop a new problem is now occurring in addition to the failure to start when cold. Now after driving a while I intermittently start getting 4X4 failure warning, ABS failure warning, etc. etc. And then lose all power. However, if the vehicle is jumped from the remote battery post in the engine compartment then the car starts again and runs fine for hours, days ,weeks once again. Any ideas what could be causing all these strange events. I'm thinking that a loose or corroded electrical ground connection somewhere? There is one more event that might be a contributor but I can't be certain. I left a soda in a paper cup in the drink holder for several days and part of the liquid ate through and leaked into the holder area. Later I discovered that there is an access plate to the transmission mechanical override located in the bottom of the drink holder. So, some of this liquid did run down that hole and it might be possible that it got on some electronics located below that access plate. Anyway, I only mention it because I found a post that someone else had experienced similar problems from spilling a drink in this area. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
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      12-17-2013, 06:53 PM   #2
rh71
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how old is your battery on an '07?

Multiple intermittent warnings is a sign it's starting to fail. And of course if it is then it may not be enough to start your car either.
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      12-18-2013, 03:01 PM   #3
nardoyno
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I'm not sure how old the battery is.

Maybe it is old. Maybe it's new. But, if it can supply enough energy to turn the engine over for 15-20 minutes, then surely the cold start issue is not related to reduced capacity of the battery. Mechanic has the car again and now says the alternator may have failed. He says there are some system relays though that can shut the alternator off. So, he is checking those first to make sure it isn't a relay shutting off the alternator. Why anyone would ever want to shut off the alternator is another question to ponder though. If the alternator wasn't charging then how stupid is the computer program that it can't light an "ALT" light on the dash, like every other car I have ever seen does. Instead, BMW prefers to just let you drive until the battery voltage drops to a point where computers and communications buses randomly begin to fail. I guess the German's see no value in deterministic behavior.

My old 2001 X5 had plenty of electrical issues with windows and locks and such but this 2007 model is like the Apollo 13 mission. I hate to see what happens when a window motor fails on this turd, who knows what other unintended consequence will be tied to that seemingly inconsequential event.
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      12-18-2013, 05:56 PM   #4
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My battery just died after 5 years in my X5. Happened to be in -15 F weather being outside while at work. So I went to Auto Zone and bought an ATG gold battery almost with OEM specs. All the things you are experiencing happened to me and eventually my car wouldn't even turn on. Completely dead. So I replaced it this morning and it started right up instantly like a brand new car. No lag or delay or anything. However I need to register it this week and I should be good to go. Looked all over Bimmerfest forums and they have a bunch of X5 E70 problems such as this. I knew my battery was going. lol Plus in extreme cold weather older batteries die faster. 36 is pretty warm. I wish it was that hot here.
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      12-19-2013, 11:42 AM   #5
nardoyno
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Well, the mechanic has now found a signal that isn't getting to the alternator and thinks he is close to resolving the mystery of why the car lost all electrical power. However, I'm not sure this is related to the failure to start at 36F and below problem. maybe the two issues are unrelated. I had him check the battery and he says the battery looks new and is in warranty and tests good out of the vehicle on a battery tester. So, I don't know what to think about this mess. I guess I will just wait and see if this fixes one or both problems. The failure to start at cold temp problem seems to be a lot more nebulous than the loss of electrical power problem. Seeing if an alternator and battery are functioning correctly is pretty straight forward, while the other issue has allot more variables to consider. Many things could cause the failure to start at cold, and when the engine is being cranked just fine and not firing, well it's either fuel, spark, or airflow that aren't happening. Otherwise, the vehicle would at least be misfiring and it isn't. I mean it's like zero fuel or zero spark is happening when 36F or below. Almost like the computer has decided to just shut down the engine and prevent starting deliberately. It's strange for sure.
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      01-14-2014, 08:48 AM   #6
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Still exhibiting failure to start when cold

Well, the system failures were apparently due to an intermittent alternator that was saturated with engine oil because of a failed valve cover gasket. So, the mechanic replaced the 3YO battery with a new one and replaced the defective alternator and valve cover gaskets and the vehicle no longer looses power after driving for 20 minutes.

However the original, apparently unrelated problem, of failing to start when cold still persists. I have been around and around on this problem and it still isn't resolved. The car has a new battery, new alternator, and new fuel pump and still just intermittently won't start. When the outside temperature drops to 36F it will crank for 10-20 times before sometimes starting. It's really perplexing.

Anyway, the vehicle is completely unreliable now because of this issue. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I'm probably going to switch mechanics now. My mechanic said that when the vehicle failed to start for him before replacing the battery the only codes being thrown were low voltage supply codes. These were thrown for every module. Well, now we have a new alternator and a new battery and the same problem is occurring. I guess the thing to do is put the computer back on it when the vehicle won't start and see if it is still throwing Low Supply Voltage codes. I really don't see how you can accurately measure battery voltage while simultaneously diverting ~100 amps to a starter to turn over a motor. So, I suspect that these codes are ambiguous at best and not the reason the car is failing to start.

Anyway, this problem has been incredibly discouraging and really undermined my opinion on BMW vehicles. I have always loved the way they drive and have owned various BMWs all my adult life. Anyone who owns a BMW knows that they are not known for being electrically sound systems. However, up until now those type problems were always with the creature comforts such as doors, windows, seat adjustments, heaters, etc. Anyway, apparently now BMW's electrical incompetence has found it's way into more critical systems.

Last edited by nardoyno; 01-14-2014 at 09:37 AM..
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      01-14-2014, 02:10 PM   #7
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I had the same problem but only once and at -20F. It started on the 4th try and gave an OBD code 100 (mass air flow sensor). It has not yet happened again. Maybe try looking at the air flow sensor. If it does not sense any air flow perhaps it will not add fuel.
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      02-11-2021, 07:31 AM   #8
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I have the exact problem with my e70 3.0si 2008, could you advise how you resolved the problem?

So if I drive 30 miles w the car, and stop. Starts, if tried immediately. After 30mins, tries to start w some cylinders or is rough, runs badly - after these 2-4 attempts does not even promise to start anymore (all this in cold weather).

If I try to start after cooling off 2 hours - does not start at all (in cold weather). But if I let it sit outside in this cold weather, the next day starts immediately.

No error codes in Carly, voltage normal in engine bay, new battery (made no difference)

During Summer after this longish drive (say 100 miles) still starts after 2-4 attempts running w partial cylinders/ rough.

Never stops if I get it running, so it is only the start. If it starts it runs.

If I drive short distances, like 1 mile to store and back - no problem. Only when the distance is long enough to overheat something

Drives me crazy. Any ideas?

(Some people hint to module Z11 problems in the discussion forums ab starting problems)

Last edited by jukkasm; 02-11-2021 at 07:37 AM..
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