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      08-18-2020, 06:27 PM   #1
Usmcorpse
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2012 BMW X5 E70

Not sure what direction to go. Air started blowing warm while running an errand. Thought that maybe the refrigerant was low, I had a couple bottles of R134, connected the gauge to the low side pressure with vehicle and AC running, the pressure gauge registered all the way in the red, pegged out to the right.
I'm at a loss of what to do or where to troubleshoot.
*please understand that since this pandemic has hit I've lost over 50% of my income and taking it to an "expert" for $ 200 an hour isn't an option. The only reason I'm fixing it is because I have a 2 year old and we live in South Louisiana.*
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      08-18-2020, 08:29 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Usmcorpse View Post
2012 BMW X5 E70

Not sure what direction to go. Air started blowing warm while running an errand. Thought that maybe the refrigerant was low, I had a couple bottles of R134, connected the gauge to the low side pressure with vehicle and AC running, the pressure gauge registered all the way in the red, pegged out to the right.
I'm at a loss of what to do or where to troubleshoot.
*please understand that since this pandemic has hit I've lost over 50% of my income and taking it to an "expert" for $ 200 an hour isn't an option. The only reason I'm fixing it is because I have a 2 year old and we live in South Louisiana.*
Most likely fuse, snapped belt, or compressor clutch is shot. Pressure on low side will be pegged when compressor is not turning (or expansion valve is blocked but that is pretty rare). Visit the BMW newtis site for complete instructions on how to check/change each one for your submodel.
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      08-19-2020, 12:21 AM   #3
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there can be a leak in the system as well..
since you already tried adding refrigerant.. whats the pressure you read when the car is off?
you can start the car with AC on max and check the low pressure side should be like 30-40psi and high should ve above 200-250psi (not 100% sure though best to check the manual for certain numbers) it can vary on different cars less or more in the end.. if you see really low or 0 pressure and since you ve added refrigerant already it can be a clear sign for a leak in the system.. but if comp kicks in even for a second it is good cause if not those sort of problems can be expensive..
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      08-19-2020, 11:28 AM   #4
Usmcorpse
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there can be a leak in the system as well..
since you already tried adding refrigerant.. whats the pressure you read when the car is off?
you can start the car with AC on max and check the low pressure side should be like 30-40psi and high should ve above 200-250psi (not 100% sure though best to check the manual for certain numbers) it can vary on different cars less or more in the end.. if you see really low or 0 pressure and since you ve added refrigerant already it can be a clear sign for a leak in the system.. but if comp kicks in even for a second it is good cause if not those sort of problems can be expensive..
The low pressure reading when the motor is off is still maxed out. I do not have a gauge that fits the high pressure side to check that pressure. With the vehicle running the compressor does kick on. So with that it of information wouldn't that rule out the ac compressor and components?
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      08-19-2020, 11:57 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Usmcorpse View Post
The low pressure reading when the motor is off is still maxed out. I do not have a gauge that fits the high pressure side to check that pressure. With the vehicle running the compressor does kick on. So with that it of information wouldn't that rule out the ac compressor and components?
Low side maxxed out is normal when engine is off, like the other member said, when running and compressor engaged it should go down to 35-55psi depending on ambient temp, of it stays pegged and the compressor is for sure engaged and turning then you have possible shot compressor, blocked or failed expandlsion valve, or overcharged system. We need more info, have to know what the pressures are on both low and high side with the AC on full blast and engine running. Only way to do this is to get a A/C manifold gauge set, you can find these around 30-40 dollars on Amazon/harbor freight. You may be able to rent from Auto parts store too.

Watch videos on YouTube on how to use, it's pretty basic but some important safety tips to learn. (Basically one REALLY important one: Always make sure the highside valve is closed on the manifold when you hook up a freon can, or freon can goes boom)

Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 08-19-2020 at 12:04 PM..
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      08-19-2020, 06:00 PM   #6
Usmcorpse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Usmcorpse View Post
The low pressure reading when the motor is off is still maxed out. I do not have a gauge that fits the high pressure side to check that pressure. With the vehicle running the compressor does kick on. So with that it of information wouldn't that rule out the ac compressor and components?
Low side maxxed out is normal when engine is off, like the other member said, when running and compressor engaged it should go down to 35-55psi depending on ambient temp, of it stays pegged and the compressor is for sure engaged and turning then you have possible shot compressor, blocked or failed expandlsion valve, or overcharged system. We need more info, have to know what the pressures are on both low and high side with the AC on full blast and engine running. Only way to do this is to get a A/C manifold gauge set, you can find these around 30-40 dollars on Amazon/harbor freight. You may be able to rent from Auto parts store too.

Watch videos on YouTube on how to use, it's pretty basic but some important safety tips to learn. (Basically one REALLY important one: Always make sure the highside valve is closed on the manifold when you hook up a freon can, or freon can goes boom)
Thank you very much! And to make things more interesting, it just started working. Cold as ever. It was blowing hot in way to Harbor freight and started working and continued to work rest of way home
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