Help!- Turbo Aux Collant pump, Oil Level Sensor not working after replacing imjectors

[OllieX5M]

Hi All,

Replaced all 8 injectors to index 12. I left the shop and i noticed my tempratures were higher then normal when just crusiing on the highway bakc home got as high as 250. I then scaned the car with carly and get 2E7C for bit serial data interface signal, 2EAA for turbocharger coolant pump control, 2F4A for interface EWS-DME. When I clear codes they all clear except for 2E7C and the 2EAA. I also check my oil level and it’s says it’s inactive but was working perfectly fine prior to injectors being replaced. After I shut the car off i noticed the collant running to the turbos is not doing anythign felt with my hand not hot at all and no liquid running through. Let me know if any of you have run into this before. I appreciate it.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by OllieX5M

Hi All,

Replaced all 8 injectors to index 12. I left the shop and i noticed my tempratures were higher then normal when just crusiing on the highway bakc home got as high as 250. I then scaned the car with carly and get 2E7C for bit serial data interface signal, 2EAA for turbocharger coolant pump control, 2F4A for interface EWS-DME. When I clear codes they all clear except for 2E7C and the 2EAA. I also check my oil level and it’s says it’s inactive but was working perfectly fine prior to injectors being replaced. After I shut the car off i noticed the collant running to the turbos is not doing anythign felt with my hand not hot at all and no liquid running through. Let me know if any of you have run into this before. I appreciate it.

Sounds like not everything was connected correctly plus for some reason they drained the coolant to do the injectors and didn't fill it back up properly (you have to vacuum you fill to do it right). I would call them back immediately and have it towed there, I would not take a chance on driving it anymore. If you decide to work on it yourself let us know for more tips and what to do next.

[OllieX5M]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Sounds like not everything was connected correctly plus for some reason they drained the coolant to do the injectors and didn't fill it back up properly (you have to vacuum you fill to do it right). I would call them back immediately and have it towed there, I would not take a chance on driving it anymore. If you decide to work on it yourself let us know for more tips and what to do next.

I confirmed with the mechanic he didnt touch the coolant to do this repair. My main concern is i dont see the coolant running after turning the car off to cool the turbos. Im going to do a bleed procedure to see if i even see anythign moving in the coolant tank... I'm also thinking it could be a DME issue with the bit serial data code im getting

[pearlpower]

Originally Posted by OllieX5M

I confirmed with the mechanic he didnt touch the coolant to do this repair. My main concern is i dont see the coolant running after turning the car off to cool the turbos. Im going to do a bleed procedure to see if i even see anythign moving in the coolant tank... I'm also thinking it could be a DME issue with the bit serial data code im getting

Pop the two torx screws at the top with engine running and warm to bleed (do not remove, just turn to open). FYI, air in the system will burn out that pump very quickly. I went through 3 of them before I properly bled the system.

[OllieX5M]

Originally Posted by pearlpower

Pop the two torx screws at the top with engine running and warm to bleed (do not remove, just turn to open). FYI, air in the system will burn out that pump very quickly. I went through 3 of them before I properly bled the system.

Thanks bud I'm about to do the bleed procedure right now. What about the bit serial data code im getting would this be due to the IBS on the battery by any chance?

[OllieX5M]

So I got a diagnoses yesterday at my mechanics shop using Autologics scanner. We were able to successfully run a coolant bleed procedure through Autologics which means my Turbo Aux coolant pump is working properly both coolant tanks were squirting just fine. He then scanned for codes and we got a alternator communication error code 2ECC. Next check was the Battery which was never registered properly by previous owner. Previous owner installed a Duralast AGM. The alternator and car were on factory coding still for a normal lead acid battery 106AH. This explains the failure as the alternator/DME are taking down the bds/ibs bus. I have order a brand new factory bmw battery and Brandee new alternator with new factory serpentine belt. I’ll keep you posted wen it’s swapped if issues are fixed. I also got the oil level sensor to work again. The signal is just shorting our due to alternator and battery failure. If anyone else has run in to this please share. I’ll follow up once all is replaced.

[bmwpower603]

The drivers side coolant line that runs from the heater core, to the expansion tank, to the aux water pump is required to be removed to get the injectors out, along with the expansion tank.

The Turbo coolant reservoir and coolant lines to to be disconnected in order to access the injectors. I wonder that kind of tools this guy used to remove/ torque the high pressure fuel lines.

[OllieX5M]

One of the best mechanics in the area just so you know... Regardless if he took the expansion tank out or not It’s working when doing a bleed procedure and no signs of it being broken although I’m also replacing since it a $90 part. Anyhow. I just turned the car on and got a high battery drain which leads me to believe the alternator is not charging the battery anymore while the cars on and I drove a lot yesterday.