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      05-24-2016, 02:37 PM   #1
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      05-24-2016, 05:44 PM   #2
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You're the second person selling one of these used for $350...it's been over a month and his hasn't sold either.
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      05-24-2016, 08:32 PM   #3
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Thanks for the feedback.
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      05-31-2016, 01:36 PM   #4
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      06-04-2016, 03:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
You're the second person selling one of these used for $350...it's been over a month and his hasn't sold either.
No joke....
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      06-06-2016, 09:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc GTO View Post
No joke....
people are free to send offers.
I am fully aware of your for sale thread, and did not feel it was in good character to just undercut your price and steal any interest away from yours, nor devalue the product.
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      06-06-2016, 04:21 PM   #7
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Bump for you!

I don't know why these aren't selling. I love mine and the info it provides is great, plus the whole kit integrates nicely with the interior and looks oem.
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      06-17-2016, 01:51 PM   #8
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      06-20-2016, 03:22 PM   #9
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      06-27-2016, 04:38 PM   #10
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      07-03-2016, 08:37 AM   #11
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Does this include the analog boost sensor option? Not sure if the 'boost sensor' option from P3 new just includes some line or if there's actually a difference on the gauge itself.
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      07-03-2016, 05:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGas32
Does this include the analog boost sensor option? Not sure if the 'boost sensor' option from P3 new just includes some line or if there's actually a difference on the gauge itself.
No analog boost sensor. All p3 gauges have an auxiliary Input for a analog gauge to attach. So you could buy the p3 kit or any other analog boost sensor to attach.
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      07-11-2016, 11:04 AM   #13
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      07-13-2016, 12:53 AM   #14
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would this work well for a non turbo vehicle?
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      07-13-2016, 07:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyny
would this work well for a non turbo vehicle?
Besides boost it does all these other functions.
Coolant: Coolant temp. Unlike the needle on your dash, this will show you exactly the temp that your engine is currently running at, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit.

Air: Air intake temperature. This is the reading of the temperature of the air entering the engine, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit. On most vehicles, this reading is taken from the T-MAP sensor on the charge pipe, before the throttle.

IGNTN: Ignition timing. This mode will show you the spark timing of your engine in real-time.

EGT: Exhaust Gas Temperature. This is the temp of the exhaust gas as calculated by your ECU. (canbus vehicles only)

Throttle: Actual throttle plate position. Use this mode to see how your car changes the actual drive by wire throttle blade in relation to what your foot tells it to do.

rp-Shift: RPM readout. It can be handy to use this mode to see an exact RPM or to record/playback and see your shifts.

Speed: Actual road speed direct from VSS. This is the actual road speed value of the car, uncorrected. This is the raw value; therefore it may not match your cluster which tends to read high in many cars. This value is taken from the left rear wheel on most vehicles.

0-60: Performance Timer, 0-60 timer with auto start / stop.

Batt: Battery Voltage. This is the voltage of your cars power system, anything between 13-14.5 volts while running is normal.

Code Reading: Read and Clear diagnostic codes, this happens automatically at startup. On K-Line vehicles this is disabled by default because it delays startup.
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      07-18-2016, 09:54 AM   #16
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      07-19-2016, 05:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceTruk View Post
Besides boost it does all these other functions.
Coolant: Coolant temp. Unlike the needle on your dash, this will show you exactly the temp that your engine is currently running at, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit.

Air: Air intake temperature. This is the reading of the temperature of the air entering the engine, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit. On most vehicles, this reading is taken from the T-MAP sensor on the charge pipe, before the throttle.

IGNTN: Ignition timing. This mode will show you the spark timing of your engine in real-time.

EGT: Exhaust Gas Temperature. This is the temp of the exhaust gas as calculated by your ECU. (canbus vehicles only)

Throttle: Actual throttle plate position. Use this mode to see how your car changes the actual drive by wire throttle blade in relation to what your foot tells it to do.

rp-Shift: RPM readout. It can be handy to use this mode to see an exact RPM or to record/playback and see your shifts.

Speed: Actual road speed direct from VSS. This is the actual road speed value of the car, uncorrected. This is the raw value; therefore it may not match your cluster which tends to read high in many cars. This value is taken from the left rear wheel on most vehicles.

0-60: Performance Timer, 0-60 timer with auto start / stop.

Batt: Battery Voltage. This is the voltage of your cars power system, anything between 13-14.5 volts while running is normal.

Code Reading: Read and Clear diagnostic codes, this happens automatically at startup. On K-Line vehicles this is disabled by default because it delays startup.
Excuse my lack of knowledge but what is the difference between this and a Carly Bluetooth device linked to a small tablet or cell phone?
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      07-19-2016, 06:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyny
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceTruk View Post
Besides boost it does all these other functions.
Coolant: Coolant temp. Unlike the needle on your dash, this will show you exactly the temp that your engine is currently running at, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit.

Air: Air intake temperature. This is the reading of the temperature of the air entering the engine, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit. On most vehicles, this reading is taken from the T-MAP sensor on the charge pipe, before the throttle.

IGNTN: Ignition timing. This mode will show you the spark timing of your engine in real-time.

EGT: Exhaust Gas Temperature. This is the temp of the exhaust gas as calculated by your ECU. (canbus vehicles only)

Throttle: Actual throttle plate position. Use this mode to see how your car changes the actual drive by wire throttle blade in relation to what your foot tells it to do.

rp-Shift: RPM readout. It can be handy to use this mode to see an exact RPM or to record/playback and see your shifts.

Speed: Actual road speed direct from VSS. This is the actual road speed value of the car, uncorrected. This is the raw value; therefore it may not match your cluster which tends to read high in many cars. This value is taken from the left rear wheel on most vehicles.

0-60: Performance Timer, 0-60 timer with auto start / stop.

Batt: Battery Voltage. This is the voltage of your cars power system, anything between 13-14.5 volts while running is normal.

Code Reading: Read and Clear diagnostic codes, this happens automatically at startup. On K-Line vehicles this is disabled by default because it delays startup.
Excuse my lack of knowledge but what is the difference between this and a Carly Bluetooth device linked to a small tablet or cell phone?
I am not familiar with the device you are talking about but it sounds like they so many of the same things but this is obviously a sleeker integrated design. The orange LED display perfectly matched the oem BMW cluster lights

Last edited by RaceTruk; 07-25-2016 at 10:14 AM..
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      07-19-2016, 06:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyny View Post
Excuse my lack of knowledge but what is the difference between this and a Carly Bluetooth device linked to a small tablet or cell phone?
iCarly can also do simple coding...euro flashers, windows up via remote, DVD in Motion, etc. I used Carista to do the same thing. Unless iCarly is different from using Torque, I haven't been able to get an accurate boost reading via my OBDII setup using a $50 tablet, $8 mount, $5 Bluetooth dongle and the Torque app.
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      07-25-2016, 10:15 AM   #20
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      08-20-2016, 04:34 PM   #21
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      08-23-2016, 10:38 AM   #22
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