N63 or S63 cam gear failure? (Update Semi-rebuild)

[1jwhite]

I will verify that, the lobes seem to point where they want them too with intake pointing down and exhaust up.

[1jwhite]

It fired once with started fluid i wanted to narrow down fuel or spark. Obviously injectors not firing and that must be computer related due to the timing codes i assume...

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by 1jwhite

Yes, the timing tool is lined up with the mark on the balancer which is aligned correctly by the keyway on the crank. Your right the no piston is at tdc during timing allowing free rotation. I have the cams facing the way they describe with the 3 flat sides basically up and lobes pointing as they describe ensuring cam placement...

Time to go old school. Compression, fuel, spark. If it were me I would run a leak down or compression test, then test spark, injectors are tricky but there are inexpensive hand held oscilloscopes on Amazon and many videos on YouTube for measuring the injectors pwm.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by 1jwhite

It fired once with started fluid i wanted to narrow down fuel or spark. Obviously injectors not firing and that must be computer related due to the timing codes i assume...

Is the flywheel new? Just curious if it were a flywheel with the inductor ring not rivited in the right position causing all of this.

[1jwhite]

I will certainly run those tests. I will remive spark plug and use a wooden dowel to see what #1 piston is doing too

[1jwhite]

No, same flywheel. I wish i would have compared crankshaft before returning the core.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by 1jwhite

I will certainly run those tests. I will remive spark plug and use a wooden dowel to see what #1 piston is doing too

It's interesting you said it fired with starter fluid. Really is looking like wiring/sensor issue. I would still do all the basic tests mentioned above, but I would also pull up ISTA's or TIS detailed wiring schematics for the cam sensors and trace each wire back to the ECU for all four sensors, making sure nothing is mixed up.

Also I mentioned before, do you remember if you had the wiring harnesses for the injectors bolted firmly to the valve covers when you tested? A couple of those bolts on each side are the grounding points for the injectors. Wouldn't explain the timing codes but it's possible you might have multiple issues here.

Last thing: Check the vanos solenoids wiring. I remember that being super easy to get mixed up as they sat right next to each other.

[1jwhite]

I have specific pictures of the vanos wiring and they are correct. One plug is angled and one is straight. Im going to check compression to help verify if the crank is correct. I may pull the lower oil pan to try and see the oart number to verify. Ready to just dump car for whatever i can get for salvage

[slovakE70]

Originally Posted by 1jwhite

them hand tight and rotated the gears ccw..

I remember reading from instructions that you should check whether cam gears are locked, but I never did. I just put them on without rotating them, no problems for me as the engine was also runing fine before disassembly.
I wonder if that could cause some problems, but probably not.

[1jwhite]

I did originally have that issue and they moved out of time a little so i read how to turn them ccw to lock them and then lock the gears down. I took it back apart yesterday hoping to find they were out of time but was not the case. All 4 were perfect, so frustrating. I guess compression test will a answer a few questions...

[slovakE70]

Originally Posted by 1jwhite

I will certainly run those tests. I will remive spark plug and use a wooden dowel to see what #1 piston is doing too

Do as Redneck said, chceck compression and spark (easy to do) and injectors wiring bolts !!
Next thing chceck piston 1 at timing position. If i remember correctly, it should be 150 degrees BTDC, but i might be wrong, better verify in instructions.

But I personally belive all of this will be ok and prohlem will be at sensor/wiring/ecu ....since you said it fired with starting fluid ..

[1jwhite]

Im really concerned it could be wrong crankshaft. Getting timing code 1 after another for all 4. Wish i could find another flywheel to try and see where the relucter ring is compared to the dowel pin. I have looked at quite a few crankshafts on ebay and they dont seem consistent as far as where dowel pin is in relation to keyway at the front for balancer...

[1jwhite]

I dont seem to feel harder spots when rotating the engine by hand, do you remember if yours did? Sounds nirmal when turning by starter. Very steady

[slovakE70]

Originally Posted by 1jwhite

I dont seem to feel harder spots when rotating the engine by hand, do you remember if yours did? Sounds nirmal when turning by starter. Very steady

By harder spots you mean compression ? Because I felt only piston compression when rotating by hand (spark plugs and injectors were in)
And wondering if your crankshaft could be from N63TU engine ? I'm not sure if they are exactly the same ?

[1jwhite]

I may drop the lower oil pan and try to get a part number to verify its correct

[slovakE70]

Originally Posted by 1jwhite

I may drop the lower oil pan and try to get a part number to verify its correct

I didn't read every post and you problably already checked this but can you check engine rpm during cranking with starter ? I saw on another engines (not N63 through) that crank sensor went bad and only shows 0 rpm all the time and engine won't start

[1jwhite]

Yes shows around 185 rpm, have one coming to make sure though its the only common denominator

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by 1jwhite

I dont seem to feel harder spots when rotating the engine by hand, do you remember if yours did? Sounds nirmal when turning by starter. Very steady

I would run down to auto parts place or harbor freight and grab a compression tester. You can definitely feel the compression stroke when turning by hand and hear the air slowly escaping around the piston rings.

Possible like other member mentioned you got a TU crank, which should work fine but the harmonic balancer or flywheel from a TU engine may need to be matched to it if BMW changed the position of the keyway or dowel pin on the newer cranks.

[1jwhite]

Im sure hoping I can make it work without pulling engine

[Guan]

Originally Posted by 1jwhite

Im sure hoping I can make it work without pulling engine

Hi have you Resolved this issue? I got the same issue.
After rebuilt for N63, timing all is correct, checked 3 times, but car keep cranking and cannot start. If I remove the camshaft sensor, car can start and engine is running properly. I guess looking at the same issue aa yours.
Any advices you resolved?

[JohnelP]

manual mentions clearly to position the valve cover correctly so the camshaft sensors are positioned right. if i recall they say to align the rear valve cover center bolt first for the correct alignment

[TTV8M]

Did you ever resolve this issue?