X5M Ownership Difficulty: Reduced Power Engine Malfunction

[TwinSnailz]

Originally Posted by Dave00

Don't understand why you want to put the air intakes/filters there as the heat soak that close to the turbos is gong to be horrible. I don't see how that will help anything performance wise???

I was thinking of the same as well. He lives in Nevada and summer heat is coming. Heat from ambient air, heat from the car in front, heat from the radiator fan, I can already see the ecu backing off the timing 180 degree btc. 😂

[frankenm]

Ever touch that big oem intake box on the front of the engine bay after driving and notice how hot it is?

Heat soak isn’t much of an issue at least never was for me, I only noticed an issue when sitting in extreme stop and go traffic and it was a very slight temp increase from idle in hot traffic.

When moving intake air temps are roughly the same

[frankenm]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Ill be doing something similar to your set up today with these air filters.

I was curious did you need any special rubber boots (going into turbo secured by 10m nut) or have any fitment issues?

OR did you use OEM ones with the air filter. Curious to see how you routed it and if it was just plug and play with those worm clamps on the rubber boot

I use the OEM boots as adapters for these on the OEM E70 intake

[Dave00]

Originally Posted by frankenm

Ever touch that big oem intake box on the front of the engine bay after driving and notice how hot it is?

Heat soak isn’t much of an issue at least never was for me, I only noticed an issue when sitting in extreme stop and go traffic and it was a very slight temp increase from idle in hot traffic.

When moving intake air temps are roughly the same

It's not the temperature of the OEM box that is the concern. It's the location of where the Air is being drawn from. The OEM box pulls in cooler air from infront of the radiator, however those direct cone filters draw in the hot air that surround the engine bay that has all ready passed the Radiator, AC Condensor, Oil Cooler and Turbo Intercoolers and not to mention the radiant heat in the engine bay already. I agree with the statement above, and bet you see a significant difference in IAT temps from the OEM setup to the cone filter setup. Not ideal for turbo setups, where they are already dealing with cooling the charge before it enters the motor. Why do you think most aftermarket intake boxes or cold air setups, have a lid on the box that isolates them from the heat of the engine bay??

[frankenm]

Originally Posted by Dave00

It's not the temperature of the OEM box that is the concern. It's the location of where the Air is being drawn from. The OEM box pulls in cooler air from infront of the radiator, however those direct cone filters draw in the hot air that surround the engine bay that has all ready passed the Radiator, AC Condensor, Oil Cooler and Turbo Intercoolers and not to mention the radiant heat in the engine bay already. I agree with the statement above, and bet you see a significant difference in IAT temps from the OEM setup to the cone filter setup. Not ideal for turbo setups, where they are already dealing with cooling the charge before it enters the motor. Why do you think most aftermarket intake boxes or cold air setups, have a lid on the box that isolates them from the heat of the engine bay??

Ok sir

[mr____p]

Turbos are in.

Not bad for 2k right? Brand new and sealed. $400 core deposit as well.

Noticed my power steering pump is whining when warm, fluid looks ok. That will be next.....



Praying these turbos fix my smoking issue a bit, at least help it a bit.

Will update you guys soon

[mr____p]

Dropped the car off at the Indy for the turbo install.

Really excited to see how the car performes after.

& dude a power steering pump for an x5m is $1500?!!! That's almost as much both the turbos!

Absolutely crazy!

What are my options for pump?

Found one on Ali express brand new for $630.

Bunch of used ones on eBay for $150-500

Tough call. But can't stand the whining!

Again, I'm really praying new turbos cut down on the mild smoke after long idle.

Is it possible that the turbo can be leaking oil past the seals into the exhaust very similar to how the valve seals do ?

I already confirmed the left bank turbo inlet seal to be compromised in an above YouTube video. Smoke is literally coming out of the the inlet if I remove intake box. Just one one side. Not on other.

My fingers are crossed. If the valve seals are toast it'll most likely buy a new motor.

Also was going to do an oil change with liquimoly 10w-60 for the oncoming Vegas heat. Any thoughts ?

[TwinSnailz]

The smoke in your video is from the passenger side valve cover which the pcv hose is connected to. The smoke comes out and is drawn back into the turbo intake which is what the pcv is design to do in the first place but without the smoke. But at least you now have a nice set of turbos.
Worst comes to worst as a last ditch effort, get some at-205 reseal and see if that’ll buy you some time. Those thing works great. My 250k miles 4runner was smoking at cold start but now it doesn’t do it any more.

[mr____p]

Turbos are out and we found some more leaks at the valley pan.

I was expecting that with the mileage. We are going to go ahead and remove the exhaust manifold, cats, and get all that cleaned up down there with new gaskets.


Cooling hose leaking, As well down there under exhaust manifold is a turbo adapter cover. It started leaking oil, since we are here I'll replace it now.

Should be done tommorw, will let you know how she rides.

[mr____p]

Valley is now nice and clean!

[mr____p]

Here is a link for the failed waste gates on the old turbos vs the new turbos. Sorry for the bad quality

[Dave00]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Valley is now nice and clean!

WOW - Nice Job!!!!! I bet that took a ton of elbow grease

[mr____p]

Assembling back now!

[frankenm]

My turbo wastegates failed the same way as well, the pin on the arm fails same thing happens on the n54 - there are kits available to weld a new arm in place from a number of places it would probably work as a fix and is much cheaper than new turbos .... should do this on my old turbos ....

Have fun with the new turbos

[3g_bishi]

Originally Posted by Dave00

Don't understand why you want to put the air intakes/filters there as the heat soak that close to the turbos is gong to be horrible. I don't see how that will help anything performance wise???

Man oh man i went thru the same issue with my 2014 x6m

So the white smoke is valve seals. Don't worry about that for now.

The boost problem your having is going to be the TMAP Sensors located on the intercoolers.
You have one on each side. And about $140 from BMW.
Replace those and test drive ( as long as your vacum lines are routes correctly and your ccv lines aren't broke ) you should be good to go.
It took me forever to chase down this problem,
I went thru the vacum pump, solenoids, vacum Lines, wastegate,diverter valves, in the end said fuck it I change those sensors and it has been running like a dream ever since.
I had to rebuild my engine when I first got it. Had spun bearings so I redid the valve seals while it was apart. Good luck

[mr____p]

Just got the car back from the shop!

FINALLY! NO MORE CEL. Its almost unbelievable not seeing that light come on.

Car drives great. I can hear the turbos spooling. Just over all sounds good. It's pretty hot today in Vegas, going to let her cool down a bit and then take out from a cold start to see how she runs in lower outside temps.

Unfortunately, I still got smoke from the exhaust after long idle...

I did put new oil in it. Shop told me that they wouldn't suggest running 10w-60 in it because of the rod bearing clearance doing better less thick oils. So I took the advice.

I have tried atp-205 with no luck. I'm guessing I can try it again and see what happens.

I won't do the valve stems. That's easily 4-5k job. I would more likely spend the money on a new motor. Much more bang for your buck.

Most likely will get the motor replaced by the end of the year.

I know the power steering pump will be next.
Just trying to find a good deal on one.

[mr____p]

Just installed new license plate light bulbs. One was out and the other was a dim yellow.

Picked these LED bulbs up from auto zone

But.... Got the license plate malfunction light ?

Weird. Is it possible these auto zone bulbs aren't error free ?

How would I know? Anyone experience this before ?

Is their a all in one unit that's is error free ?

[mr____p]

Getting the rebuild done.

Will keep you Guys updated.

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Getting the rebuild done.

Will keep you Guys updated.

Oh wow...who's doing the build? What's being upgraded?

[mr____p]

Got a guy in Orange County doing the rebuild.

Just met him over the week and his garage has some really insane builds.

Just got these downpipes in from VRSF.

redoing all my vacuum lines with high temp
Silicone and installing an oil catch can.

Trying to get right what bmw engineers couldn't.

[BMW-SRT]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Got a guy in Orange County doing the rebuild.

Just met him over the week and his garage has some really insane builds.

Just got these downpipes in from VRSF.

redoing all my vacuum lines with high temp
Silicone and installing an oil catch can.

Trying to get right what bmw engineers couldn't.

How much is he charging for the rebuild?
right now i have no issues with my 13 X5M but its at 90K miles and with all the horror stories of rod bearing and valve seals junking the S63 motors I figure I might as well get quotes for replacing them, but a motor rebuild would be smarter...

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by BMW-SRT

How much is he charging for the rebuild?
right now i have no issues with my 13 X5M but its at 90K miles and with all the horror stories of rod bearing and valve seals junking the S63 motors I figure I might as well get quotes for replacing them, but if a motor rebuild would be smarter...

$7-8k total depending on parts