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      07-14-2017, 06:52 PM   #1
askjeeves
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X5M multiple issues all at once

Seems like the x5m gremlins have attacked today. I purchased my x5m a couple months ago. It's a 2012 with around 49k miles. It has been flawless over the past two months and I've driven about 3k miles.

On my drive home today, just cruising on the highway around 65mph, a warning popped up for "Charging malfunction error" with the battery symbol. This was almost immediately followed up with an error for dynamic drive something or the other with the uneven car and arrow pointing both ways. I figured battery must be on its way out.

Kept driving. Soon after got a warning for engine warm, drive moderately. Car still was driving fine. Until eventually power steering stopped working. And car felt like it was losing power.

Pulled over to let car sit for a minute and take a look under the hood. Looks like power steering fluid must have overheated and boiled out, or cap for the reservoir has malfunctioned maybe.

Got back in the car and went on my way. Turned the heater up on full blast just in case engine was getting warm. Managed to make it home without any warm engine warning or loss of power. But lack of power steering fluid persisted. Not fun trying to pull into a parking garage without power steering!!

One pic includes of power steering reservoir with fluid around it.

Any ideas?
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      07-15-2017, 11:57 AM   #2
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Oil temp gauge never went above normal (slightly under the midway point)

Car is a little low on PS fluid and coolant, but not by much for either.

Haven't had a chance to do anything with the car yet today but will top those fluids up.

Possible I've broken a belt or pulley maybe? Could affect cooling/water pump, power steering pump, and alternator which would explain all the simultaneous issues.

If anyone else has had a similar issue, or has any other ideas feedback is more than appreciated. Otherwise will keep talking to myself..
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      07-15-2017, 01:13 PM   #3
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Getting any whining from the front-end?

Your power steering pump is likely toast and needs replacement.

I wouldn't drive until getting this fixed ... The PS fluid is highly flammable.

FYI They run about $1200 and something I would recommend taking to an indy shop for replacement ... will likely cost somewhere around $2k total for all new pump, hoses, reservoir, fluids and shop time since this isn't the easiest to replace.

The reservoir has an overflow that begins ejecting fluid once the pump beings going out and it will empty the entire bottle.

Really quite sad this happens at such an early age and the replacement being so fucking expensive .... mine started making noise at 60k miles until i eventually replaced it at 80k due to it shooting the PS fluid all over the engine bay.
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      07-16-2017, 07:59 PM   #4
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Looks like I may have lucked out and an correct with my theory of broken belt. Though I wonder if this could be a result of PS pump seizing or something like that?

Any advice for replacing the belt? Looks like there is a bunch of stuff in the way from the top and the bottom.
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      07-17-2017, 09:13 PM   #5
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Nice find and thanks for the follow up. I would replace the belt and go from there, cheap diagnosis for a bad PS pump if it breaks again! No idea how to get to the belts, I also looked at mine quickly and there is stuff in the way on both top and bottom. Good luck and keep us posted.
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      07-17-2017, 09:57 PM   #6
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It's actually not so hard to get to the belt. Think I'll post a diy with some pictures since I couldn't find one. Basically just need to pull the air intake box, the metal bar that runs across the top, and pull the fan out. 10 min of work tops. Looks like the serpentine belt should be easy to change. The a/c belt on the other hand seems like a big pain to replace. Thankfully that one still looks to be in good shape.
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      07-18-2017, 08:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by askjeeves View Post
It's actually not so hard to get to the belt. Think I'll post a diy with some pictures since I couldn't find one. Basically just need to pull the air intake box, the metal bar that runs across the top, and pull the fan out. 10 min of work tops. Looks like the serpentine belt should be easy to change. The a/c belt on the other hand seems like a big pain to replace. Thankfully that one still looks to be in good shape.
- It's going to take more than 10 minutes bro ...

You will need a T60 for the tensioner pulley - I'd also suggest a long breaker bar and eating your Wheaties

Broken belt at only 49k miles? Something likely seized causing it to break and if you ran it with a broken belt ( which it sounds like you did ) it will have caused serious damage like cracking a head gasket and you didn't luck out at all.

Not sure if you read my other post but I wouldn't just replace the belt because it broke for a reason figure out why it broke and fix it.

Good luck...
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      07-18-2017, 01:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankenm View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by askjeeves View Post
It's actually not so hard to get to the belt. Think I'll post a diy with some pictures since I couldn't find one. Basically just need to pull the air intake box, the metal bar that runs across the top, and pull the fan out. 10 min of work tops. Looks like the serpentine belt should be easy to change. The a/c belt on the other hand seems like a big pain to replace. Thankfully that one still looks to be in good shape.
- It's going to take more than 10 minutes bro ...

You will need a T60 for the tensioner pulley - I'd also suggest a long breaker bar and eating your Wheaties

Broken belt at only 49k miles? Something likely seized causing it to break and if you ran it with a broken belt ( which it sounds like you did ) it will have caused serious damage like cracking a head gasket and you didn't luck out at all.

Not sure if you read my other post but I wouldn't just replace the belt because it broke for a reason figure out why it broke and fix it.

Good luck...
10 minutes referring to getting stuff out of the way so there is access to the belt. Probably took me even less working in the dark with a flashlight in one hand. Just loosened the hose clamps to remove the intake portion, four bolts for the metal bracket, and two torx screws holding the fan baffle. All easily accessible fortunately.

None of the pulleys are seized fortunately! I was expecting to find the ps pump pulley seized per your info and other info showing these ps pumps can be a problem. And the tensioner pulley seems to be in good condition also. I agree, it seems unusual for a belt to break so early. My m3 has around 80k miles and I haven't bothered changing the belts because they look to be in such good condition. Will keep my fingers crossed it's just a result of the excessive heat put out by this engine.

I didn't have to use the tensioner pulley to remove the belt since it was shredded, so will see how tough that is when reinstalling a new belt today. Can't imagine it's any more difficult than any other car I've changed a belt in. Are you sure it's a T60? The service pictures showed a bolt head.

Thanks for the feedback.
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      07-18-2017, 01:32 PM   #9
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I've had my belt off a few times and used a T60 head on it each time could be something different but that is what worked for me.

Getting it over the alternator pulley is the hardest part ... Was a bit easier when I replaced my tensioner pulley but still a bitch really seems the belt needs to be about 2-3mm longer.
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      07-22-2017, 12:10 PM   #10
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For conclusion, I got the new belt on and all is back to normal.

Definitely takes some muscle to get the belt on this car! And yes it's a t60 for the tensioner pulley (of course my set only went up to t55).

For getting the new belt on I'd recommend routing around all pulleys but leaving the alternator for last. I thought it'd be easier to route around the water pump or tensioner pulley last but couldn't get that to work since it would just slide off those.
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