N63 engine correct placement on the engine stand (HF 2k lb model)

JohnelP · 09-05-2021, 02:14 AM

Took the engine out of the car and now it is sitting in the engine hoist. Next i need to put it on the engine stand. Got the 1 ton engine stand from Harbor Freight.

Now I am trying to figure out the correct position of the bracket that holds the securing bolts to the engine. So far I see three positions to bolt the bracket arms to the engine. Took two pictures. Attached.

In the first one, the bracket sits somehow more in the middle of the securing arms. It sits slightly above the crakshaft. Not a lot. What i do not like it will be off-center a lot, given I will take the oil sump out, but I hope to keep the cyl heads and turbochargers in the engine.

The second option is to have the bracket more upwards. It gets more centered for my plans, but the position of the arms are even worse balanced in relation with the bracket and stand articulation point. I am afraid the uneven loads in the securing bolts not to damage the block, given it is aluminum.

Third option is to anchor the upper arms to the top two bolts. However, those bolts are smaller (M8) compared to the remaining bolts that are thicker (M10). The channels for the mount bracket bolts have 16mm diameter, and M8 is too loose in the channel. M10 sits slightly better in the bore of the channel. Because of this, I am not a fan of this approach. Did not take a picture o this.

I was hoping to get more instructions, but they are way too brief...

Advices?

m5james · 02-22-2022, 08:48 PM

Where are you located and what came of this?

Movado750 · 03-02-2022, 06:58 PM

I don't have any say in the bracket/bolt location, but you must know what you are doing to drop a engine.

Are you rebuilding the engine?

Bengineer330 · 03-02-2022, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Movado750

I don't have any say in the bracket/bolt location, but you must know what you are doing to drop a engine.

Are you rebuilding the engine?

Lol I was thinking the same thing! Got the damn engine out don’t worry about the stand!

Honestly, whenever I use my engine stand I just bolt it up however convenient. Nothing special going on there but to allow the best orientation to work on it. But if I was doing my N63 I’d bolt it up like the second picture because unless you really torque the bolts it’ll probably relax to that position anyway if you have it one there for while.

JohnelP · 03-22-2022, 03:16 AM

In the end, i have chosen to link the upper stand bolts to the topmost block holes. Not like in the pictures above. Initially, when i posted the pictures, i did not want to put pressure on the upper part, because top holes in block do not reach depth in the block and the top screws were thinner (M8) compared to the rest that are M10; and i was concerned the aluminum block would be too weak to hold the force. Block survived. Now, agree, i would be a bit more relaxed on this topic. When i started this thread, it was my first time when i took apart an aluminum block, so i wanted to be cautious.

Yes, I had the engine rebuilt. Timing chain guides started to break, so i was on countdown to an engine fail. Given how brittle they were, they were guaranteed to mess my engine sooner rather than later.

As a side note, I suspect the n63 is a non interference engine. I measured the maximum extent of the valves when open, and according to my measurements, they would not reach the piston even if out of synch. Possibly due to lower compression ratio, the piston does not travel that far up to touch the valve. But again, it is my suspicion, not a fact.

>>Where are you located and what came of this?
DFW area. Now the car drives. Bit nicer than before, but the difference is not significant. The whole show cost me 4k in parts -used only genuine parts - and a continuous noise from my wife complaining the garage was a mess for many months.....

Would I do it again? Yes! By all means, yes! It is intimidating- admit I was scared of it - , but i took pictures of every bolt, so I could have the assembly steps reversed to finally match up. Especially wire and hoses routings. Did I make mistakes? Absolutely, and quite many; - even for my taste. Practically, I had the engine assembled and torn apart 3 times; not completely, but deep enough.

Colodano · 03-27-2022, 02:54 PM

Sounds like you ended up doing what I was thinking would be the best weight distribution, instead of just having them all in an almost straight line there to either side.

09-05-2021, 02:14 AM	#1
JohnelP Enlisted Member 4 Rep 35 Posts Drives: 5 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: T iTrader: (0)	N63 engine correct placement on the engine stand (HF 2k lb model) Took the engine out of the car and now it is sitting in the engine hoist. Next i need to put it on the engine stand. Got the 1 ton engine stand from Harbor Freight. Now I am trying to figure out the correct position of the bracket that holds the securing bolts to the engine. So far I see three positions to bolt the bracket arms to the engine. Took two pictures. Attached. In the first one, the bracket sits somehow more in the middle of the securing arms. It sits slightly above the crakshaft. Not a lot. What i do not like it will be off-center a lot, given I will take the oil sump out, but I hope to keep the cyl heads and turbochargers in the engine. The second option is to have the bracket more upwards. It gets more centered for my plans, but the position of the arms are even worse balanced in relation with the bracket and stand articulation point. I am afraid the uneven loads in the securing bolts not to damage the block, given it is aluminum. Third option is to anchor the upper arms to the top two bolts. However, those bolts are smaller (M8) compared to the remaining bolts that are thicker (M10). The channels for the mount bracket bolts have 16mm diameter, and M8 is too loose in the channel. M10 sits slightly better in the bore of the channel. Because of this, I am not a fan of this approach. Did not take a picture o this. I was hoping to get more instructions, but they are way too brief... Advices? Attached Images
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02-22-2022, 08:48 PM	#2
m5james Colonel 431 Rep 2,062 Posts Drives: '10 X5M Alpine White on Sakhir Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Marysville, WA iTrader: (0)	Where are you located and what came of this? __________________ '10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - JB4 w/ HCP Stage 2 BEF, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS tubing & BMC filters, gutted cats, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2" '98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's '97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch & L/W flywheel, Z4///M 18's
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03-02-2022, 06:58 PM	#3
Movado750 Private First Class 21 Rep 166 Posts Drives: 2012 X5 M Sport Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Minnesota iTrader: (0)	I don't have any say in the bracket/bolt location, but you must know what you are doing to drop a engine. Are you rebuilding the engine?
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03-22-2022, 03:16 AM	#5
JohnelP Enlisted Member 4 Rep 35 Posts Drives: 5 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: T iTrader: (0)	I have bolted the upper stand bolts to the top block - Not like in the pictures In the end, i have chosen to link the upper stand bolts to the topmost block holes. Not like in the pictures above. Initially, when i posted the pictures, i did not want to put pressure on the upper part, because top holes in block do not reach depth in the block and the top screws were thinner (M8) compared to the rest that are M10; and i was concerned the aluminum block would be too weak to hold the force. Block survived. Now, agree, i would be a bit more relaxed on this topic. When i started this thread, it was my first time when i took apart an aluminum block, so i wanted to be cautious. Yes, I had the engine rebuilt. Timing chain guides started to break, so i was on countdown to an engine fail. Given how brittle they were, they were guaranteed to mess my engine sooner rather than later. As a side note, I suspect the n63 is a non interference engine. I measured the maximum extent of the valves when open, and according to my measurements, they would not reach the piston even if out of synch. Possibly due to lower compression ratio, the piston does not travel that far up to touch the valve. But again, it is my suspicion, not a fact. >>Where are you located and what came of this? DFW area. Now the car drives. Bit nicer than before, but the difference is not significant. The whole show cost me 4k in parts -used only genuine parts - and a continuous noise from my wife complaining the garage was a mess for many months..... Would I do it again? Yes! By all means, yes! It is intimidating- admit I was scared of it - , but i took pictures of every bolt, so I could have the assembly steps reversed to finally match up. Especially wire and hoses routings. Did I make mistakes? Absolutely, and quite many; - even for my taste. Practically, I had the engine assembled and torn apart 3 times; not completely, but deep enough.
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03-27-2022, 02:54 PM	#6
Colodano First Lieutenant 131 Rep 310 Posts Drives: 2010 X5M Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Co iTrader: (0)	Sounds like you ended up doing what I was thinking would be the best weight distribution, instead of just having them all in an almost straight line there to either side.
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