03-26-2014, 01:37 PM | #23 |
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sounds like a plan the +25 would look perfect with no spacers if you had flares.
I don't suggest a 10mm spacer 12 is the minimum that is safe over the lip of the front hubs on some bmw's without modification (hub lip needs to be shaved down in some cases with 10mm spacers). Then again with a 12mm spacer your pretty much at +25 (+28). Your call. |
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03-26-2014, 02:54 PM | #24 | |
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03-26-2014, 02:56 PM | #25 | |
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I don't think that is correct, Everyone is running 12 or 15 mm spacers I doubt they are running higher than 28 up front. That doesn't make any sense since most of the OEM fitments are around +40 so minus a 12-15mm spacer would equal 28-25 range (with fender flares that is). I'm at 28 and I like the way it sits but wouldn't mind going to +25. I'm still under the fender flares at +28 without the fender flares it will be too aggressive though. Last edited by skunkd; 03-26-2014 at 03:03 PM.. |
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03-26-2014, 03:03 PM | #26 | |
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03-26-2014, 03:12 PM | #27 |
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hubcentric spacers do not cause vibration.
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03-26-2014, 03:14 PM | #28 | |
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Go with H&R or Turner Motorsports spacers and make sure you get extended bolts to match the spacer width and you won't get any vibrations. Turner motorsports is a good source for these if your spacer doesn't come with extended bolts. Also use some White lithium grease spray on the hubs between the spacer and the hub so they don't stick or cease onto the hub from home depot or lowes. Thats a headache and a half I've spent hours beating stuck spacers before they've come off. The one I use is by liquid wrench but WD-40 also makes a white lithium grease whichever is cheaper at the time. I've been using spacers for over a decade on my cars and never had an issue. Just makes sure they are flush against the hub prior to you mounting the wheel onto the spacer. Sometimes you have to get the spacers on with a mallet if corrosion has started to form on the hub making it a tight fit over the lip. |
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03-26-2014, 04:31 PM | #29 |
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Cool, thanks man, you've been a big help!
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03-26-2014, 04:58 PM | #30 |
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Correct. hubcentric rings, center a rim onto the hub, so you can properly torque them down and the lugnuts will tighten the wheel to the hub. All load is there on the hub face to wheel face. The ring does not do anything at that point, other than center the wheel.
hubcentric spacer/adapters, again, it's hub face to wheel face where all load is placed. the hubcentric part is what centers the wheel, nothing more. Any vibrations can be attributed to improperly balanced wheel/tires, improper installation/prep work of spacers, or improper torque sequence of lugnuts (e.g. star pattern)
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04-15-2014, 03:51 PM | #31 |
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Hmmmmm.... Now I'm wondering if I'll have an issue with my 22x10.5 running an ET20 in the rear... Anybody have any feedback?? I figured I would run the most aggressive offset so that way not waste money on spacers.. I think the fronts are 35 I know for those ill need spacers..
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04-15-2014, 04:34 PM | #32 | |
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04-15-2014, 09:59 PM | #33 |
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Pretty much pair them up with the fender arches..... BTW I installed the lowering kit.. Are the rear links the same way you had them on your M? I left them as is I figured you played around with them already. The drop is real nice!!
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04-16-2014, 03:17 AM | #34 | |
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You will only poke out another 9mm over stock. To be flush with a 10.5" on the rear you'd be wanting to be in the ET10 or ET5 range. |
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04-16-2014, 08:54 AM | #35 | |
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As for offsets, if you are only going to run a 10.5 in the rear I would definitely get the 20 offset. My winter set is 10" wheels with a 35 offset, and even with a 25mm spacer i thought it was too tucked in the rear. I had a 40 mm spacer custom made to bring it out flush.
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04-16-2014, 10:07 AM | #36 | ||
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05-15-2014, 05:23 PM | #37 |
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Hey Sylvan,,,Thats the look i'm going for....where did you get the flares ? Did they need to be painted ? and if you use spacers do you need to change out the studs ? Thanx,,i'm new to the game,,,just picked up a 09 4.8 x5,,,,thanx again
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