11-07-2021, 09:07 AM | #68 |
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It fired once with started fluid i wanted to narrow down fuel or spark. Obviously injectors not firing and that must be computer related due to the timing codes i assume...
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11-07-2021, 09:16 AM | #69 | |
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11-07-2021, 09:19 AM | #70 |
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Is the flywheel new? Just curious if it were a flywheel with the inductor ring not rivited in the right position causing all of this.
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11-07-2021, 09:33 AM | #73 | |
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Also I mentioned before, do you remember if you had the wiring harnesses for the injectors bolted firmly to the valve covers when you tested? A couple of those bolts on each side are the grounding points for the injectors. Wouldn't explain the timing codes but it's possible you might have multiple issues here. Last thing: Check the vanos solenoids wiring. I remember that being super easy to get mixed up as they sat right next to each other. |
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11-07-2021, 09:52 AM | #74 |
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I have specific pictures of the vanos wiring and they are correct. One plug is angled and one is straight. Im going to check compression to help verify if the crank is correct. I may pull the lower oil pan to try and see the oart number to verify. Ready to just dump car for whatever i can get for salvage
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11-07-2021, 11:59 AM | #75 |
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I remember reading from instructions that you should check whether cam gears are locked, but I never did. I just put them on without rotating them, no problems for me as the engine was also runing fine before disassembly.
I wonder if that could cause some problems, but probably not. |
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11-07-2021, 12:07 PM | #76 |
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I did originally have that issue and they moved out of time a little so i read how to turn them ccw to lock them and then lock the gears down. I took it back apart yesterday hoping to find they were out of time but was not the case. All 4 were perfect, so frustrating. I guess compression test will a answer a few questions...
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11-07-2021, 12:12 PM | #77 | |
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Next thing chceck piston 1 at timing position. If i remember correctly, it should be 150 degrees BTDC, but i might be wrong, better verify in instructions. But I personally belive all of this will be ok and prohlem will be at sensor/wiring/ecu ....since you said it fired with starting fluid .. |
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11-07-2021, 12:18 PM | #78 |
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Im really concerned it could be wrong crankshaft. Getting timing code 1 after another for all 4. Wish i could find another flywheel to try and see where the relucter ring is compared to the dowel pin. I have looked at quite a few crankshafts on ebay and they dont seem consistent as far as where dowel pin is in relation to keyway at the front for balancer...
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11-07-2021, 12:36 PM | #80 | |
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And wondering if your crankshaft could be from N63TU engine ? I'm not sure if they are exactly the same ? |
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11-07-2021, 01:13 PM | #82 |
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I didn't read every post and you problably already checked this but can you check engine rpm during cranking with starter ? I saw on another engines (not N63 through) that crank sensor went bad and only shows 0 rpm all the time and engine won't start
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11-07-2021, 04:12 PM | #84 | |
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Possible like other member mentioned you got a TU crank, which should work fine but the harmonic balancer or flywheel from a TU engine may need to be matched to it if BMW changed the position of the keyway or dowel pin on the newer cranks. |
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01-20-2022, 01:50 AM | #86 |
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Hi have you Resolved this issue? I got the same issue.
After rebuilt for N63, timing all is correct, checked 3 times, but car keep cranking and cannot start. If I remove the camshaft sensor, car can start and engine is running properly. I guess looking at the same issue aa yours. Any advices you resolved? |
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05-04-2022, 05:02 AM | #87 |
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when you installed the valve covers, did you position the central back bolt first?
manual mentions clearly to position the valve cover correctly so the camshaft sensors are positioned right. if i recall they say to align the rear valve cover center bolt first for the correct alignment
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10-24-2023, 11:06 PM | #88 |
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Drives: '23 AMG GLE53, '10 X6M
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: NJ 08805
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Did you ever resolve this issue?
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