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      11-16-2015, 06:05 PM   #1
Da M3nace
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Has anyone tried gluing these broken partitions back on? All three of mine are broken and dealer quoted me $599 for replacements plus labor. I think Id rather try fixing myself. This is such a bad design from BMW for such an important part of the engine compartment. I have also fixed the leak in the tailgate light housing which lead to water in my trunk. Im annoyed by such poor craftsmanship to say the least. My truck is barely 5 years old. These things should not be occurring this early in the vehicles life.
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      11-16-2015, 06:35 PM   #2
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if you check the part numbers at realoem.com you can get these for fairly cheap from places like ECS Tuning. Maybe $40 each? Mine in the middle is cracked so it's something I've been meaning to do, too.
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      11-16-2015, 08:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Da M3nace View Post
Has anyone tried gluing these broken partitions back on? All three of mine are broken and dealer quoted me $599 for replacements plus labor. I think Id rather try fixing myself. This is such a bad design from BMW for such an important part of the engine compartment. I have also fixed the leak in the tailgate light housing which lead to water in my trunk. Im annoyed by such poor craftsmanship to say the least. My truck is barely 5 years old. These things should not be occurring this early in the vehicles life.
well known problem. Please see:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...lp+me+identify
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...light=bulkhead

Also, to buy parts, I'd highly recommend BMW Topeka's online store. Cheaper than any other place that I've seen (I bought it from getbmwparts, which was the cheapest before I was aware of Topeka).

HTH.
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      11-16-2015, 09:45 PM   #4
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Thanks for the links guys. Im trying the glue method first. Hopefully with some luck I report back a successful alternative to dropping $150 on three plastics pieces that are bound to break again.
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      11-17-2015, 01:25 AM   #5
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Gluing will be a temporary solution. Mine cracked and I replaced them myself. While removing the damaged parts they disintegrated into dust. It's inevitable. They will need to be replaced. Save yourself the aggravation and bite the bullet now.
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      11-17-2015, 03:14 AM   #6
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Wow. That means the plastic is crap material. Gotcha. Well I did glue it tonight so just for shit and giggles I will see how long it lasts.
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      11-17-2015, 11:12 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Da M3nace View Post
Thanks for the links guys. Im trying the glue method first. Hopefully with some luck I report back a successful alternative to dropping $150 on three plastics pieces that are bound to break again.
Being a different type of plastic,very few glues can be used.I tried different type of glues, but this was the only one that kept it together so far.Partition on my 35D was not separated but i could see that crack was started to develop and leaking water.Make sure you clean it with alcohol before applying the epoxy.I then sprayed black plastic paint on the epoxy joint and now it just looks like OEM part.

Also don't forget to use butyl tape to seal the joints between center and side sections.The factory applied foam is just not enough.I think there is SIB from bmw suggesting the use of butyl tape after removing the old foam.

Last edited by ninja_zx11; 11-17-2015 at 01:05 PM.
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      11-17-2015, 01:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Da M3nace View Post
Thanks for the links guys. Im trying the glue method first. Hopefully with some luck I report back a successful alternative to dropping $150 on three plastics pieces that are bound to break again.
The engine covers (center piece) from factory has a flaw, and causes water leaking into the injectors and damaging them. The newer parts fixes the design flaw. I'd recommend replacing them.
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      11-17-2015, 04:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja_zx11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Da M3nace View Post
Thanks for the links guys. Im trying the glue method first. Hopefully with some luck I report back a successful alternative to dropping $150 on three plastics pieces that are bound to break again.
Being a different type of plastic,very few glues can be used.I tried different type of glues, but this was the only one that kept it together so far.Partition on my 35D was not separated but i could see that crack was started to develop and leaking water.Make sure you clean it with alcohol before applying the epoxy.I then sprayed black plastic paint on the epoxy joint and now it just looks like OEM part.

Also don't forget to use butyl tape to seal the joints between center and side sections.The factory applied foam is just not enough.I think there is SIB from bmw suggesting the use of butyl tape after removing the old foam.
I used an epoxy glue as well and yes i cleaned it with alcohol first to rid of grime. All three of my partitions were detached except for both end corners. I will post pictures later.
Got any pictures?
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      11-28-2015, 07:17 PM   #10
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I just replaced mine $150.00 they are easy to replace. Dealer quoted me $550.00 dam crooks !
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      11-30-2015, 09:54 AM   #11
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I just replaced mine $150.00 they are easy to replace. Dealer quoted me $550.00 dam crooks !

This is a DIY job, its as simple as unbolting the broken pieces and installing the new ones.
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      10-05-2017, 01:44 PM   #12
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AGREE, DIY!!
and also the new revised OE parts (same part numbers as old ones) from dealer have more glass in them and better sealing between the center and side pieces.
The non-club member prices for the whole set was a bit over $200 at the BMW dealer, with CCA member club discount I paid $191.
Others have ordered cheaper parts from China but reported that they matched to the 'old' BMW OE parts, not the improved newer ones.

I have a Used Old passenger side piece for sale now, as I replaced the whole set and this one was not cracked:


BUT the larger plastic piece that the center partition attaches to on my vehicle failed on the 2 screw holes when I did my replacement. It is part #15 on this RealOEM diagram:
P/N: 51717169422
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_6430

Has anyone replaced this part? Does it pull out or is it more difficult than the top three pieces?
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      10-06-2017, 08:24 AM   #13
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Here's a video of the installation I made:
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      10-12-2017, 08:45 AM   #14
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I used a $12 roll of 2" butyl rubber tape. It's got a very aggressive glue once you peel off the backing paper, and molds nicely to the partition. It's a 5 minute job and has lasted well over 6 months so far. The tape I used was black so you really don't even see it unless you're looking for it.
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      10-12-2017, 03:27 PM   #15
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Thanks for the info guys, I replaced center partition about a year ago, now I need to replace both sides...
Does anyone know how to transfer the paint code label from one of the partitions?
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      10-12-2017, 09:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Thanks for the info guys, I replaced center partition about a year ago, now I need to replace both sides...
Does anyone know how to transfer the paint code label from one of the partitions?
Buy it from FCPEuro. When it starts deteriorating again, use their lifetime warranty.
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      10-12-2017, 09:53 PM   #17
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I replaced the whole set at once, as they were heavily deteriorated and crumbling when I bought the car. Cheap Chinese imitations work just fine.

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...69420&_sacat=0

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      10-12-2017, 10:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protecon View Post
I replaced the whole set at once, as they were heavily deteriorated and crumbling when I bought the car. Cheap Chinese imitations work just fine.

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...69420&_sacat=0

good to know Alex, thx for the info, I might as well try it for $40
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      10-12-2017, 10:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
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good to know Alex, thx for the info, I might as well try it for $40
They take a bit of massaging to get in, but will fit.
My eBay ones had sealing foam missing from some of the edges, so I just reused parts of the original factory foam. The heat reflective tape in the picture was added in an attempt to prolong the life somewhat, as I assume the material isn't really rated for high engine temperatures. I did the mod back in APR-17 and haven't had any issue with mine all through our wet winter.

ECS is probably the cheapest for OEM replacements, however the shipping was going to be around USD160 for me.
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      10-14-2017, 12:27 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protecon View Post
I replaced the whole set at once, as they were heavily deteriorated and crumbling when I bought the car. Cheap Chinese imitations work just fine.

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...69420&_sacat=0

Gold reflective tape, why didn't I think of that as well!! I need to get some of that stuff anyways.
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      10-14-2017, 12:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Da M3nace View Post
Has anyone tried gluing these broken partitions back on? All three of mine are broken and dealer quoted me $599 for replacements plus labor. I think Id rather try fixing myself. This is such a bad design from BMW for such an important part of the engine compartment. I have also fixed the leak in the tailgate light housing which lead to water in my trunk. Im annoyed by such poor craftsmanship to say the least. My truck is barely 5 years old. These things should not be occurring this early in the vehicles life.
I'm guilty of just leaning on mine.
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      10-17-2017, 09:03 AM   #22
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I replaced these on a previously owned 2010 4.8is,...the cost to purchase was no where near $500,...did the install myself! It was quite easy...

Hth
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