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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > What to watch for, when buying a high mileage 3 Series (2006-2008)?



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      06-20-2018, 03:34 AM   #1
Durlaker One
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What to watch for, when buying a high mileage 3 Series (2006-2008)?

So, due to a change in my daily driving requirements and miles driven....

I've been looking at swapping my '17 Outback out for a 2006 328i w/ sub 150k miles. While, I'd prefer the xi and AWD they're a little hard to come by.

Anyhow, anything I should check or watch out for?

Last edited by Durlaker One; 06-20-2018 at 01:36 PM..
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      06-20-2018, 10:18 AM   #2
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Generally speaking BMWs are high maintenance. If you stay on top of maintenance, their reliability is average which is not bad for a performance brand.

Inside N52 engine is pretty reliable if maintained well. on the outside, water pump,starter and gaskets are prone to failure. Check these gaskets carefully before buying: VCG, OFHG and OPG.
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      06-20-2018, 10:24 AM   #3
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Hi,
Welcome. I don’t think year 2006 had 328i. I believe it’s 325i ( it’s basically same displacement except valve cover design). A well sorted car (w/service history) vs “needs work” car is the price. Here is what I would look for in order:
1. Strong engine
2. Condition of body/paint (fixing body on major panel cost $$$. Nothing worst driving beat up car)
3. Water pump/thermostat (history)
4. Transmission (not slipping or code)
5. VCG leak
6. OFHG leak
7. Serpentine belt (known as drive belt)/tensioner condition
8. Then so on....battery, tires, suspensions,etc.
This forum has so much resources you can search just about everything here..

Last edited by bkwld; 06-20-2018 at 10:33 AM..
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      06-20-2018, 12:11 PM   #4
Durlaker One
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Thanks guys, yep I meant a 325i.

It seems if I can do some diy work it isn't too bad. The local BMW dealership charges over $100 for an oil change apparently so.... I guess I'll do it myself (worst part is getting under the car)....

Has anyone used a fumto valve? Any unique reason it won't work?

I'll do a test drive and take a look under the hood.

Appreciate the help! It'll suck leaving the outback forums but there seems to be a decent community here!
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      06-20-2018, 12:29 PM   #5
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PM me if you'd like me to send you the complete service history of my 2007 328xi with 280,000 kms (180k miles).

It's a good snapshot of what a well-maintained N52 E90 looks like, and should give you an accurate idea of what you might be in for/what to look for in terms of already-completed maintenance.

Haven't used Fumoto valve myself, but it does look cool. My only concern would be its impact on ground clearance. My car on OE springs is already low enough that I get scraping in the winter when the ruts are very bad.
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      06-20-2018, 01:16 PM   #6
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I know you probably want an XI, but if the fluids in the transfer case haven’t been changed routinely I might avoid the XI based on the number of extra parts there are to fail.
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      06-20-2018, 01:23 PM   #7
Durlaker One
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90yyc View Post
PM me if you'd like me to send you the complete service history of my 2007 328xi with 280,000 kms (180k miles).

It's a good snapshot of what a well-maintained N52 E90 looks like, and should give you an accurate idea of what you might be in for/what to look for in terms of already-completed maintenance.

Haven't used Fumoto valve myself, but it does look cool. My only concern would be its impact on ground clearance. My car on OE springs is already low enough that I get scraping in the winter when the ruts are very bad.
Yeah, it seems to be a problem. That's too bad, as it really speeds/cleans up an oil-change.



and I'll send a PM now, appreciate it pal.
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      06-20-2018, 01:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durlaker One View Post
So, due to a change in my daily driving requirements and miles driven....

I've been looking at swapping my Outback out for a 2006 328i w/ sub 150k miles. While, I'd prefer the xi and AWD there a little hard to come by.

Anyhow, anything I should check or watch out for?
Why do you want/ need AWD?
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      06-20-2018, 01:27 PM   #9
Durlaker One
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
I know you probably want an XI, but if the fluids in the transfer case haven’t been changed routinely I might avoid the XI based on the number of extra parts there are to fail.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Why do you want/ need AWD?
That's a good take. Yeah, I don't really drive rough terrain anymore (city streets and the interstate). So, no AWD really needed. RWD will suck in the snow but having moved to Iowa from Duluth, MN it could be worse. That said the Iowa Department of Transportation is inferior in every way to what I've come to expect, in regards to keeping the roads serviceable during winter.
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      06-20-2018, 03:22 PM   #10
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So, interested in an '06 325i, good for you! I've got one and can tell you no more than you've already read. I can attest that they're good cars, so long as you do your part. A car, ANY car is only as good as its owner wants it to be. Granted, they can be finicky, but nowhere near as bad as its higher tech siblings. If you can find someone with a comprehensive service history for the car, get a close look at it, it might be a winner.
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      06-20-2018, 03:51 PM   #11
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Sludge

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=627435
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      06-20-2018, 05:15 PM   #12
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Watch everything....and what everyone else above and below said.
Remember B.M.W=Broken.More than.Working.
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      06-20-2018, 07:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkwld View Post
Hi,
Welcome. I don’t think year 2006 had 328i. I believe it’s 325i ( it’s basically same displacement except valve cover design). A well sorted car (w/service history) vs “needs work” car is the price. Here is what I would look for in order:
1. Strong engine
2. Condition of body/paint (fixing body on major panel cost $$$. Nothing worst driving beat up car)
3. Water pump/thermostat (history)
4. Transmission (not slipping or code)
5. VCG leak
6. OFHG leak
7. Serpentine belt (known as drive belt)/tensioner condition
8. Then so on....battery, tires, suspensions,etc.
This forum has so much resources you can search just about everything here..
Bought a E91 wagon in June 2017, with 92k miles. I chose that mileage because several things need to be done around 100k. If you can do basic work on cars, you can change the VCG (Valve Cover Gasket), OFHG (Oil Filter Housing Gasket), Serpentine belt, and probably the water pump and thermostat. In addition to the list above:

9. Transmission fluid - the automatic transmission fluid has no official interval, because BMW considers 100k to be a "lifetime."
10. Differential fluid - similar to the transmission fluid, it should be changed by 100k miles.
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      06-20-2018, 07:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durlaker One View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
I know you probably want an XI, but if the fluids in the transfer case haven't been changed routinely I might avoid the XI based on the number of extra parts there are to fail.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Why do you want/ need AWD?
That's a good take. Yeah, I don't really drive rough terrain anymore (city streets and the interstate). So, no AWD really needed. RWD will suck in the snow but having moved to Iowa from Duluth, MN it could be worse. That said the Iowa Department of Transportation is inferior in every way to what I've come to expect, in regards to keeping the roads serviceable during winter.
If you invest into a great set of snow tires and separate rims, you should not have too much to worry about. I have the 335i with the N54 motor. I drive mine all winter long in Michigan winters, and I don't worry too much. If it's really bad out, you ain't going out anyhow....

You being from Minnesota, I can see why you would want AWD.

AWD is harder to work on... all things considered, I'd rather work on a RWD car any day.

My advice would be to get an 08' 328i with the N52 motor.

Try and find one with less than 100k on it. They are out there. N52's that have been maintained are very good motors.

BkWld above has some good advice. I agree with everything he said. I'd only add suspension. The cost of Shocks & Struts & surrounding hardware is only around $600.00 for parts. Bilstein B4's are a very good, if not the best replacement set for that car. The OEM shocks & struts, on a BMW, are probably only good for around 75,000 miles . Maybe 100,000 miles, if you have pristine roads. You start getting over 125,000 miles and now you are worrying about control arms, subframe bushings, differential bushings and so on.
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