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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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What to watch for, when buying a high mileage 3 Series (2006-2008)?
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06-20-2018, 03:34 AM | #1 |
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What to watch for, when buying a high mileage 3 Series (2006-2008)?
So, due to a change in my daily driving requirements and miles driven....
I've been looking at swapping my '17 Outback out for a 2006 328i w/ sub 150k miles. While, I'd prefer the xi and AWD they're a little hard to come by. Anyhow, anything I should check or watch out for? Last edited by Durlaker One; 06-20-2018 at 01:36 PM.. |
06-20-2018, 10:18 AM | #2 |
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Generally speaking BMWs are high maintenance. If you stay on top of maintenance, their reliability is average which is not bad for a performance brand.
Inside N52 engine is pretty reliable if maintained well. on the outside, water pump,starter and gaskets are prone to failure. Check these gaskets carefully before buying: VCG, OFHG and OPG. |
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06-20-2018, 10:24 AM | #3 |
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Hi,
Welcome. I don’t think year 2006 had 328i. I believe it’s 325i ( it’s basically same displacement except valve cover design). A well sorted car (w/service history) vs “needs work” car is the price. Here is what I would look for in order: 1. Strong engine 2. Condition of body/paint (fixing body on major panel cost $$$. Nothing worst driving beat up car) 3. Water pump/thermostat (history) 4. Transmission (not slipping or code) 5. VCG leak 6. OFHG leak 7. Serpentine belt (known as drive belt)/tensioner condition 8. Then so on....battery, tires, suspensions,etc. This forum has so much resources you can search just about everything here.. Last edited by bkwld; 06-20-2018 at 10:33 AM.. |
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06-20-2018, 12:11 PM | #4 |
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Thanks guys, yep I meant a 325i.
It seems if I can do some diy work it isn't too bad. The local BMW dealership charges over $100 for an oil change apparently so.... I guess I'll do it myself (worst part is getting under the car).... Has anyone used a fumto valve? Any unique reason it won't work? I'll do a test drive and take a look under the hood. Appreciate the help! It'll suck leaving the outback forums but there seems to be a decent community here! |
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06-20-2018, 12:29 PM | #5 |
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PM me if you'd like me to send you the complete service history of my 2007 328xi with 280,000 kms (180k miles).
It's a good snapshot of what a well-maintained N52 E90 looks like, and should give you an accurate idea of what you might be in for/what to look for in terms of already-completed maintenance. Haven't used Fumoto valve myself, but it does look cool. My only concern would be its impact on ground clearance. My car on OE springs is already low enough that I get scraping in the winter when the ruts are very bad. |
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06-20-2018, 01:16 PM | #6 |
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I know you probably want an XI, but if the fluids in the transfer case haven’t been changed routinely I might avoid the XI based on the number of extra parts there are to fail.
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06-20-2018, 01:23 PM | #7 | |
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and I'll send a PM now, appreciate it pal. |
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06-20-2018, 01:26 PM | #8 | |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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06-20-2018, 01:27 PM | #9 | |
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06-20-2018, 03:22 PM | #10 |
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So, interested in an '06 325i, good for you! I've got one and can tell you no more than you've already read. I can attest that they're good cars, so long as you do your part. A car, ANY car is only as good as its owner wants it to be. Granted, they can be finicky, but nowhere near as bad as its higher tech siblings. If you can find someone with a comprehensive service history for the car, get a close look at it, it might be a winner.
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06-20-2018, 03:51 PM | #11 |
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06-20-2018, 07:13 PM | #13 | |
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9. Transmission fluid - the automatic transmission fluid has no official interval, because BMW considers 100k to be a "lifetime." 10. Differential fluid - similar to the transmission fluid, it should be changed by 100k miles. |
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06-20-2018, 07:58 PM | #14 | ||
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You being from Minnesota, I can see why you would want AWD. AWD is harder to work on... all things considered, I'd rather work on a RWD car any day. My advice would be to get an 08' 328i with the N52 motor. Try and find one with less than 100k on it. They are out there. N52's that have been maintained are very good motors. BkWld above has some good advice. I agree with everything he said. I'd only add suspension. The cost of Shocks & Struts & surrounding hardware is only around $600.00 for parts. Bilstein B4's are a very good, if not the best replacement set for that car. The OEM shocks & struts, on a BMW, are probably only good for around 75,000 miles . Maybe 100,000 miles, if you have pristine roads. You start getting over 125,000 miles and now you are worrying about control arms, subframe bushings, differential bushings and so on. |
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