Non OEM Break Kit

[Bigtimekegger]

Can anyone recommend a non OEM replacement break kit.

Or a brand... I need to replace Front/Rear Rotors/Pads and sensors. I would like to keep the cost down.

I appreciate any recommendations.

[askari]

I took my car to MotorFabrik last month. Paid $890 tax in for all 4 corners (pads/rotors/sensors) installed.


highly recommend these guys, they are at Finch and 400 area.

brembo rotors
trw front pads
textar rear pads

[Crazy1323]

What kind of E70 do you have? If it is the M, your options are pretty limited. I do not know of any aftermarket rotors. EBC makes pads in both the RedStuff and YellowStuff

[mitch808]

Centric, one of the largest manufacturer of brake parts, also the owner of Stoptech, makes what you need.

I think I paid <$220 total for front pads, front sensor, and front rotors recently. The rear rotors when I need to, will be a bit more expensive, but not more than $300 total in the rear.

[Cattivo]

I buy brakes for my trucks from Zeckhausen Racing

[socale39]

If you want OEM parts but without the price tag get Textar pads and Zimmerman rotors.

[Bigtimekegger]

Thanks guys

[smyles]

Can't speak for Centric rotors for X5, but the Mini ones suck - they rusted within few months, and warped within a year.

[socale39]

Zimmerman zinc coated is the way to go. I've also got ECS zinc coated rotors on my E46 and they have been rock solid.

[mitch808]

Originally Posted by smyles

Can't speak for Centric rotors for X5, but the Mini ones suck - they rusted within few months, and warped within a year.

Rotors don't warp. try again. No seriously, I'm not being a dick.

And rust? Umm, they are cast iron, they crave rust.

[smyles]

Originally Posted by mitch808

Rotors don't warp...

[mitch808]

Originally Posted by smyles

Exactly what I said dawg.

Pad deposits are the most common culprit in the vast majority of cases. Usually some sand paper to scuff the rotor, and a proper bedding is all that is needed. That process alone can cure many issues with pads squeaking, pulsing in the brakes (feeling of warped rotors), soft initial grab, etc.

As for rust, pad choice does make a difference here too. some of my pads cause more surface rust after a single wet morning. Other times my car can sit for days on a different brand pad with little rust until about day 3-5 of rainy days.

http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/a...etails?id=1787
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

I've tracked a number of cars, cooked fluid and pads. never have I warped a cheap napa, autozone rotor on the track, and not use centric premium rotors exclusively on the track. (I do have a pair of two-piece DBA5000's on a subaru, that never sees track time )

[smyles]

... and I warped Centric rotors that also rusted all over the place, unlike oem and Zimmerman and - although only on the second year - Bosch. So yes, it never happened...

[mitch808]

Did you verify? How did you come to the conclusion it was "warped?" was it runout, or just a feeling/sound and came to the conclusion?

20+yrs of driving, countless track and autox courses, centric, stoptech, ebc, dba, and generic blank rotors installed; never a warped rotor. pad deposits, bad wheel bearings, improperly torqued lugs, yes; but never a warped rotor.

[socale39]

Warped is a common misconception with rotors however I think it's just a play on words. Most people saying warped are actually talking about excessive run-out though they actually think it's warped. As mentioned most of the issues arise when applying brakes at a stop after moderate to severe braking conditions have super heated the rotors. Also, proper brake bedding makes a huge difference.