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      06-22-2021, 09:41 AM   #1
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Cooling Upgrades for x5m e70

Living in the desert is mostly riddled with cons, but the one con, in particular, that really sets things apart for turbocharged cars, is the heat.

As we all know, the S63 doesn't respond well to heat and lots of parts fail and need replacement in the process.

I'm looking for advice on the best way to mitigate that issue; whether it's aftermarket parts or home DIY stuff and I believe the forum is a good way to keep those things documented.

I've personally done the following:

1. switch the original thermostat to a 90C thermostat

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-...37586885-90c~/

2. turbo blanket

https://www.ptpturboblankets.com/col...5-m-x6-m-m5-m6

3. Removed the back engine cover and weather stripping


Share your thoughts and advice on what else can be done to help engine live longer and survive in horrible temps.

(I sincerely apologize if this topic has been previously discussed; I'm just looking to compile it all in one thread)
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      06-22-2021, 01:24 PM   #2
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Waterwetter has a new pre-mixed coolant. There are documented 10-20deg drops in temp, with this fluid alone.

If it meets the spec, I'd recommend it. Other wise, you can do more of a 70/30mix of water to coolant and waterwetter additive.
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      06-22-2021, 02:58 PM   #3
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There's also the lower temp oil cooler valve.
https://n63intake.com/collections/be...l-cooler-valve

You could also wrap/ceramic coat your cats.
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      06-22-2021, 04:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherArchitect View Post
Living in the desert is mostly riddled with cons, but the one con, in particular, that really sets things apart for turbocharged cars, is the heat.

As we all know, the S63 doesn't respond well to heat and lots of parts fail and need replacement in the process.

I'm looking for advice on the best way to mitigate that issue; whether it's aftermarket parts or home DIY stuff and I believe the forum is a good way to keep those things documented.

I've personally done the following:

1. switch the original thermostat to a 90C thermostat

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-...37586885-90c~/

2. turbo blanket

https://www.ptpturboblankets.com/col...5-m-x6-m-m5-m6

3. Removed the back engine cover and weather stripping


Share your thoughts and advice on what else can be done to help engine live longer and survive in horrible temps.

(I sincerely apologize if this topic has been previously discussed; I'm just looking to compile it all in one thread)
Being a fellow desert dweller, I know your pain (it was 118 here in Arizona just a few days ago). Both the N63 and S63 being nearly identical, have this same issue. Besides what you have already done, below is the heat shielding I added and it made a huge difference. All will apply to the S63, the only difference you will see is in the exhaust manifolds are different on the S63 vs N63 but should still be able to be wrapped. Links to everything I used below. I can't recommend the Titanium exhaust wrap enough, even after 40K miles it still looks and performs like new. Make sure to get the real stuff and not cheap knock offs.

1 - If you haven't already, trim rain gutters down 1/2" inch where is meets the hood, this allows for addition airflow and still allows proper water defection.

2 - Cut and Rivet heat shielding to to fit under factory turbo oil heat sheild.

3- Wrap Manifolds in 1" wrap.

4- Wrap Downpipes/cats in 2" wrap

5- Cut heat shielding to size to fit underneath stock oil catch pan/heat shield under turbos.

6 - Cut heat shielding to size to fit on top of turbo/cat main heat shield.

7 - This is also an excellent time to replace the head to head coolant line and wrap it in heat shielding (which always goes bad) and turbo/pressure converter vacuum lines and update the plastic T fittings on the turbo coolant lines to stainless steel.

Here is what you will need


2 x DEI 1" wrap (for manifolds): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R4XL2Q

2 x DEI 2" wrap (for downpipes/cats): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R4U72I

1 X Stainless steel ties: https://www.amazon.com/SunplusTrade-.../dp/B072WC1MXT

1 x Locking tie tool: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engine.../dp/*****U1UOI

1 x Heat Shielding for engine valley and turbo shield:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YJERW40
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      06-22-2021, 07:34 PM   #5
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Go Cat-less Downpipes if you can. The catalytic converter generates a large amount of the heat in the engine bay and going cat-less will significantly reduce under hood temperatures.
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      06-24-2021, 01:47 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitch808 View Post
Waterwetter has a new pre-mixed coolant. There are documented 10-20deg drops in temp, with this fluid alone.

If it meets the spec, I'd recommend it. Other wise, you can do more of a 70/30mix of water to coolant and waterwetter additive.
I will definitely check this out! I hadn't heard of it until now. 10-20 is a bit deal!
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      06-24-2021, 01:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoom750 View Post
There's also the lower temp oil cooler valve.
https://n63intake.com/collections/be...l-cooler-valve

You could also wrap/ceramic coat your cats.
Oil cooler valve seems legit! I'll order one ASAP.

I'm going with carless downpipes soon... So I guess 1" wrap will be a better option for that.
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      06-24-2021, 01:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
Being a fellow desert dweller, I know your pain (it was 118 here in Arizona just a few days ago). Both the N63 and S63 being nearly identical, have this same issue. Besides what you have already done, below is the heat shielding I added and it made a huge difference. All will apply to the S63, the only difference you will see is in the exhaust manifolds are different on the S63 vs N63 but should still be able to be wrapped. Links to everything I used below. I can't recommend the Titanium exhaust wrap enough, even after 40K miles it still looks and performs like new. Make sure to get the real stuff and not cheap knock offs.

1 - If you haven't already, trim rain gutters down 1/2" inch where is meets the hood, this allows for addition airflow and still allows proper water defection.

2 - Cut and Rivet heat shielding to to fit under factory turbo oil heat sheild.

3- Wrap Manifolds in 1" wrap.

4- Wrap Downpipes/cats in 2" wrap

5- Cut heat shielding to size to fit underneath stock oil catch pan/heat shield under turbos.

6 - Cut heat shielding to size to fit on top of turbo/cat main heat shield.

7 - This is also an excellent time to replace the head to head coolant line and wrap it in heat shielding (which always goes bad) and turbo/pressure converter vacuum lines and update the plastic T fittings on the turbo coolant lines to stainless steel.

Here is what you will need


2 x DEI 1" wrap (for manifolds): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R4XL2Q

2 x DEI 2" wrap (for downpipes/cats): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R4U72I

1 X Stainless steel ties: https://www.amazon.com/SunplusTrade-.../dp/B072WC1MXT

1 x Locking tie tool: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engine.../dp/*****U1UOI

1 x Heat Shielding for engine valley and turbo shield:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YJERW40

You are a blessing to this community! I've been through most of your posts and I can't thank you enough!

I'll definitely go through this list and follow all of this!
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      06-24-2021, 01:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobacs View Post
Go Cat-less Downpipes if you can. The catalytic converter generates a large amount of the heat in the engine bay and going cat-less will significantly reduce under hood temperatures.
I will! Placing the order on VRSF next month.
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      06-24-2021, 09:55 AM   #10
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I wouldn’t recommend removing the “back engine cover and weather stripping” if you mean the plastic engine partition. They serve a purpose to keep the rain out of the engine bay. The water does over time damage injectors and electrical components as well as corrode the engine bolts. Unless you plan to never drive it in the rain. I cant say if it lowers under hood temps a meaningful amount as I don’t recall anyone doing before and after measurements. Just some anecdotal reports. Unlike some of the other mods like hood louvres.

The lower temp oil cooler is fine in the summer. But could keep oil temps too low in the winter to burn off water/fuel. There are downsides to this mod.

No downsides on the low temp thermostat as far as I can tell.

No downsides on a turbo blanket

Catless dp, makes it hard to pass inspection if you have a state that requires it.

Personally I’ve done, low temp coolant thermostat, turbo blanket, and heat shielding on oil and coolant lines. I run mine in pretty extreme conditions most of the time and these mods seem to be fine. I tow in 100+ heat at full throttle for long stretches.
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      06-24-2021, 10:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherArchitect View Post
You are a blessing to this community! I've been through most of your posts and I can't thank you enough!

I'll definitely go through this list and follow all of this!
Thanks! Happy to help =)
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      06-24-2021, 11:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thecastle View Post
I wouldn’t recommend removing the “back engine cover and weather stripping” if you mean the plastic engine partition. They serve a purpose to keep the rain out of the engine bay. The water does over time damage injectors and electrical components as well as corrode the engine bolts. Unless you plan to never drive it in the rain. I cant say if it lowers under hood temps a meaningful amount as I don’t recall anyone doing before and after measurements. Just some anecdotal reports. Unlike some of the other mods like hood louvres.
I spent many hours testing what made a difference, the back partition is appears to be mainly for sound and engine bay odor suppression, the plastic rain gutters even with 1/2" trimmed off the top still keeps nearly all of the rain off the engine. What little does make it is quickly evaporated off.

I also used wireless thermal probes to conduct highway, city, and parked temps. I recorded a 20 degree drop on average in city driving, highway would run cooler partition-less much sooner, but the biggest difference is actually in parked temps. It shaves 30-40 degrees depending on the location in the engine compartment. When I conducted the tests it was 116 out. With the partitions in place and the engine bay reached 220-240 degrees after 15min parked and stayed in that range for hours. With the back partition removed and the gutters trimmed, peak temps were 167-190 degrees in the engine compartment. It also cooled down to ambient temps on average 3 hours earlier then with the partitions. This is when most of the high temp oxidative damage to all the plastic and rubber bits under the hood occurs.

It does have its downsides, there will be more dust and dirt allowed into the engine compartment, you will hear your injectors clicking away (as well as sweet turbo noises!) and I do not know how snow would effect it as being in Phoenix, I have only seen pictures of that white stuff. But for us desert dwellers where heat is the number one enemy of our cars and trucks, I highly recommend it.

Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 06-24-2021 at 12:08 PM..
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      06-29-2021, 06:47 AM   #13
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Just do the lower temps tstat and clean out your coolers. I am here in a high heat and high humidity and very harsh environment (125f air temps, Ground temps are higher) and my X5M never even reaches half for the oil temps and runs cooler as far as water temps are concerned. Also I used one bottle of water wetter in the turbo coolant and 2 in the radiator as well.
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      06-29-2021, 07:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
I spent many hours testing what made a difference, the back partition is appears to be mainly for sound and engine bay odor suppression, the plastic rain gutters even with 1/2" trimmed off the top still keeps nearly all of the rain off the engine. What little does make it is quickly evaporated off.

I also used wireless thermal probes to conduct highway, city, and parked temps. I recorded a 20 degree drop on average in city driving, highway would run cooler partition-less much sooner, but the biggest difference is actually in parked temps. It shaves 30-40 degrees depending on the location in the engine compartment. When I conducted the tests it was 116 out. With the partitions in place and the engine bay reached 220-240 degrees after 15min parked and stayed in that range for hours. With the back partition removed and the gutters trimmed, peak temps were 167-190 degrees in the engine compartment. It also cooled down to ambient temps on average 3 hours earlier then with the partitions. This is when most of the high temp oxidative damage to all the plastic and rubber bits under the hood occurs.

It does have its downsides, there will be more dust and dirt allowed into the engine compartment, you will hear your injectors clicking away (as well as sweet turbo noises!) and I do not know how snow would effect it as being in Phoenix, I have only seen pictures of that white stuff. But for us desert dwellers where heat is the number one enemy of our cars and trucks, I highly recommend it.
Good Data. Though with all of the problems I read from folks who have leaky engine partitions. Plus living in a sub tropical climate where we have had weeks of rain, I'm sticking with my low temp thermostat and turbo blanket ;-)

I will comment that the low temp thermostat and turbo blanket have noticeably reduced underhood temps. I remember after towing opening the hood I'd be welcomed with a blast of heat. Now I don't feel anything but I know its warm in there. Anecdotal I know.

My X5M is used mostly as a tow vehicle and burns 0 oil and was generally healthy before the mods. It has 66K miles now. I've been running a low temp t-stat on this car for 1.5 years, and a turbo blanket for 1+ years, and heat sheilding over the turbo lines. Though all of my turbo coolant lines, oil lines, and oil return block seals have been replaced before I added the turbo blanket. Also had to replace the electric turbo cooling pump.
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      07-03-2021, 02:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherArchitect View Post
I will! Placing the order on VRSF next month.
I do NOT recommend VRSF Down pipes for the S63. I have a separate thread on my experience with them. Pain in the Ass and did not fit for me, with install attempt done by a BMW/MB specialty tuning shop.
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      07-03-2021, 06:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobacs View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherArchitect View Post
I will! Placing the order on VRSF next month.
I do NOT recommend VRSF Down pipes for the S63. I have a separate thread on my experience with them. Pain in the Ass and did not fit for me, with install attempt done by a BMW/MB specialty tuning shop.
I've read about many others having issues with VRSF install as well. I've been running Active Autowerke for the past 2 years and can say build quality was excellent and install was straightforward.
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      07-15-2021, 07:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobacs View Post
I do NOT recommend VRSF Down pipes for the S63. I have a separate thread on my experience with them. Pain in the Ass and did not fit for me, with install attempt done by a BMW/MB specialty tuning shop.
THAT bad? :/
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      07-15-2021, 07:25 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
Just do the lower temps tstat and clean out your coolers. I am here in a high heat and high humidity and very harsh environment (125f air temps, Ground temps are higher) and my X5M never even reaches half for the oil temps and runs cooler as far as water temps are concerned. Also I used one bottle of water wetter in the turbo coolant and 2 in the radiator as well.
I don't have any "heat" issues, I just hate that it normally runs at such high temps. I've used the BMW coolant for both; I'm assuming from your experience it's better to use red line's WW?

Sometimes I get the "itch" to step on the gas a little; I worry about the heat ruining the internals slowly but surely. So, whatever helps it last longer, I'd do it.

Good to hear from you
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      07-15-2021, 08:59 AM   #19
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Turbo blankets is prob a bad idea on this setup you're going to keep extra heat near the back cylinders.
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      07-15-2021, 12:53 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherArchitect View Post
THAT bad? :/
So bad it made me write an article about it to spare others the frustration. I mean you already have other people saying the same thing so not sure what other proof you need. I would hate for you to try it and experience the same thing
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      07-16-2021, 05:40 PM   #21
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Great suggestions in here, I've done many and will be doing more from this post. What I didn't see is running Evans Waterless coolant, which I've been running for about 4yrs now. Slightly expensive but ZERO pressure on BMW's notorious use of shitty, brittle plastics. I've driven from Seattle to Hollywood to Vegas (Bimmerfest trips) and countless places in between, currently have 144k and around 700hp, all without cooling issues.
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      07-16-2021, 07:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
2 x DEI 1" wrap (for manifolds): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R4XL2Q

2 x DEI 2" wrap (for downpipes/cats): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R4U72I

1 X Stainless steel ties: https://www.amazon.com/SunplusTrade-.../dp/B072WC1MXT

1 x Locking tie tool: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engine.../dp/*****U1UOI

1 x Heat Shielding for engine valley and turbo shield:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YJERW40
Are the lengths/quantities correct via the links?

- 2 rolls of 1"x50' header wrap...seems like a lot but then again I'll be wrapping S63TU manifolds
- 2 rolls of 2"x50' DP wrap...I've already wrapped mine but wasn't sure if it was used elsewhere while you're at it
- 100 SS exhaust cable ties...I used safety wire from work but this would probably work better
- your locking tool link is broken but I found "Design Engineering 010220 Locking Tie Tool"
- 1 sheet measuring 42" x 24" or 7 sq ft...you just lay this in the valley pan before putting the turbos back in?
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