Clunk sound

[Bengineer330]

Its the same for you, you just need to remove the acoustic plastic on-top that covers the brake fluid reservoir on the drivers side and the one that covers the cabin air filters on the passenger side. Then remove the 3 piece engine partition and you'll have full access to both of them.

[svho]

Quick update:

1) changed sway bar end link - didn't resolve issue.

2) changed thrust arm - the braking noise went away but the seldom clunk over bad road/big dip clunk is still there.

3) will change the lower arm tomorrow (see pic) since I already bought it.

For the lower arm do I still torque 80 NM at the spindle and 100 NM at the frame side? I normally use a jack to raise the spindle up and torque at the frame side (keeping note of the hub to center distance).


I also went ahead and ordered the grommet. Also from past cars when I get clunking noise, it was the lack of grease on the bushing on the sway bars. Could this be also the issue?

[jbash87]

Originally Posted by svho

For the lower arm do I still torque 80 NM at the spindle and 100 NM at the frame side? I normally use a jack to raise the spindle up and torque at the frame side (keeping note of the hub to center distance).

80Nm on the spindle side ball joint. Both bolts get 165Nm when loaded.

I checked my driver side grommet yesterday. It is not in great shape. Cracked and splitting. The ID is nearing separation form the OD but remains in one piece. None available at the local dealers so I'll have to wait until Monday to see if my guy can get one quickly.

[svho]

Originally Posted by jbash87

80Nm on the spindle side ball joint. Both bolts get 165Nm when loaded.

I checked my driver side grommet yesterday. It is not in great shape. Cracked and splitting. The ID is nearing separation form the OD but remains in one piece. None available at the local dealers so I'll have to wait until Monday to see if my guy can get one quickly.

Thank you!

[jbash87]

A new upper grommet did not fix my issue. I did notice something interesting though. The strut rod can spin fairly freely (with a wrench) and makes a creaking noise. Basically sounds like the grommet rotating against metal. This is with the nut torqued to spec. Is this normal? Could this be my issue?

[svho]

Originally Posted by jbash87

A new upper grommet did not fix my issue. I did notice something interesting though. The strut rod can spin fairly freely (with a wrench) and makes a creaking noise. Basically sounds like the grommet rotating against metal. This is with the nut torqued to spec. Is this normal? Could this be my issue?

I don't think its normal. Btw, what is the torque of the nut by the grommet? My order should be here this week.

So far my issue hasn't gone away.

[garrypeterson]

There is a washer under the strut mount as well, see https://www.realoem.com/bmw/images/diag_3een.png.

I'm chasing the same clunk and have the washers and strut bearings on order.

[jbash87]

Originally Posted by svho

I don't think its normal. Btw, what is the torque of the nut by the grommet? My order should be here this week.

So far my issue hasn't gone away.

48Nm. Its an 18mm nut which is the only size crows foot I didn't have in that range

I used a 21mm foot and a 3mm Allen jammed in there. It held enough to get my torque wrench to click!

There is a 2nd grommet under the top hat. I'll be disassembling to replace both the top hat and the 2nd grommet this weekend.

[svho]

Originally Posted by jbash87

64Nm. Its an 18mm nut which is the only size crows foot I didn't have in that range

I used a 21mm foot and a 3mm Allen jammed in there. It held enough to get my torque wrench to click!

There is a 2nd grommet under the top hat. I'll be disassembling to replace both the top hat and the 2nd grommet this weekend.

Thank you. I also didn't have 18 mm wrench (got everything else). Had to run to Lowes to get a whole set .

The grommet just came, I will work on it during lunch time tomorrow..

Does anyone know what part number is for those 8 mm nuts/screw under the wheel well? My gf had the suv serviced by the dealership and I guess its a common thing those bastards lose them.

[jbash87]

Originally Posted by svho

Thank you. I also didn't have 18 mm wrench (got everything else). Had to run to Lowes to get a whole set .

The grommet just came, I will work on it during lunch time tomorrow..

Does anyone know what part number is for those 8 mm nuts/screw under the wheel well? My gf had the suv serviced by the dealership and I guess its a common thing those bastards lose them.

Check out realoem.com for all your part number needs. But here is the part number for the lazy
07119905507

Also... I lied. It is NOT 64Nm. It should be 48. I will edit my old post.

[svho]

Thanks jbash87!

Which side is on the bottom (assuming mine is bad and I couldn't tell when I opened her up)? It might not matter .

Btw, did I order the right piece? Looks like there are two items (upper and lower) that is close to being identical, I ordered item 10 on the diagram below. This is where I ordered.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-31336776390

Cross reference is correct 31336776390. Diagram on this link (item 10 & 8).

https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...tra2=&filter=()

[svho]

Update:
Changed the grommet and issue is still there. Going to take a break from this.

[jbash87]

svho the 390 is the correct part for the upper grommet if you don't have adaptive drive. It should be installed with the larger OD on the top. Not sure why it matters, but that's what the TIS says.

[svho]

Thank you , I am going to correct that!

[jbash87]

Well this is embarrassing. Good news is that I have fixed the annoying clunking sound I was having. Bad news is that it was due to poor mechanic work. I should fire that guy.

My noise was caused by improper clamp load on the wheel bearing. Here is a video of the cause of the noise.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iPFLgPhoH1pFm4Y66

I swapped diffs a few months back and did a bad job reinstalling the CV on the drivers side. Its all good now.

[svho]

Originally Posted by jbash87

Well this is embarrassing. Good news is that I have fixed the annoying clunking sound I was having. Bad news is that it was due to poor mechanic work. I should fire that guy.

My noise was caused by improper clamp load on the wheel bearing. Here is a video of the cause of the noise.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iPFLgPhoH1pFm4Y66

I swapped diffs a few months back and did a bad job reinstalling the CV on the drivers side. Its all good now.

Its ok, now go have a beer

[jbash87]

Originally Posted by svho

Its ok, now go have a beer

Good idea. On to the next project!

[X5Pye]

Last winter when the temp was below -30C, after I was able to start the diesel in my X5d, I noticed a clunking sound more like a gravel in a wheelbarrow sound. After the weather warmed the sound went away and I forgot about it. I figured the rear bushings were as hard as rocks from the low temp, I was also concerned they could have shattered. My X5 is 11 years old now and those bushings could be aging to the point of brittleness. I dunno.

After swapping the square winter tires out for my staggered summer tires was admiring the stance, but then noticed the rear wheels were toe out like there was a load in the back, which there wasn't. I am 67 and I recently injured my back so I am not ready to climb underneath to inspect the rear suspension but I suspect some of the bushings are either missing or the suspension is worn out.

Since I have a 2024 X5 50e on order, I am not ready to pay to have this work done. After the 50e arrives, I may convert this 2012 e70 into an off-roader. I live in the Canadian Rockies, and the X5d would be a great back country ride to hikes in the spring and summer and skiing in the winter.

Any thoughts out there as to the cause given the clunk last winter and the toe out stance of the rear wheels? Am I looking at an expensive repair job, or an easy bushing replacement.

AND, if I am going to repair/replace suspension parts and keep it for an off-roader should I consider lifting the suspension if possible. I don't really want to do that, but having more clearance could be helpful.

[svho]

Originally Posted by garrypeterson

There is a washer under the strut mount as well, see https://www.realoem.com/bmw/images/diag_3een.png.

I'm chasing the same clunk and have the washers and strut bearings on order.

Is item 9 the strut bearing that you are referring? Also are items 8 and 10 the same?

[garrypeterson]

Originally Posted by svho

Is item 9 the strut bearing that you are referring

Yes, although now I have the part on hand and see it doesn't have a bearing like on the E36.

Originally Posted by svho

Also are items 8 and 10 the same?

Yes

[svho]

Originally Posted by garrypeterson

Yes, although now I have the part on hand and see it doesn't have a bearing like on the E36.



Yes

Thanks,

Are you going to change the support guide which is item 8 (bottom one)? I already changed the top one.

Are you planning to take out the entire strut and clamp on the springs to change that support guide?

[garrypeterson]

Originally Posted by svho

Thanks,

Are you going to change the support guide which is item 8 (bottom one)? I already changed the top one.

Are you planning to take out the entire strut and clamp on the springs to change that support guide?

Yes and yes. I have already replaced everything but these and the upper arms, probably won't get around to it for about 2 weeks.