Clunk sound

[svho]

Hey guys,

When the SUV (2009 X5 3.0 Xdrive with 91k miles, original owner) go over a big dip/bad road in Socal there is a clunk sound below near the driver side.

I know troubleshooting suspension is one of the hardest tasks. Anyone want to take a stab. I am guessing its the arm/bushing.

I took off the wheel and don't see anything abnormal.

svho

[jbash87]

I have seemingly the same problem. I notice mine more when braking and hitting bumps or turning. Do you notice any difference under braking?
My plan is to replace the sway bar end links because I know those are in rough shape and they could cause similar symptoms. They're also cheap and easy to swap.
If that doesn't work I'm thinking it's the upper strut mounts, but if I'm in there doing those I'll probably replace the UCAs and LCAs because I'm in there and they're getting tired.

At least for me it is not the thrust arms because those are new and they were installed correctly.

[Dekero]

This noise is almost always caused by a failing thrust arm... And then should be replaced in pairs.

I just replaced mine for this exact reason...

Here's a video showing the problem.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2uqZWQSBs4gUuyqWA

[svho]

Originally Posted by jbash87

I have seemingly the same problem. I notice mine more when braking and hitting bumps or turning. Do you notice any difference under braking?
My plan is to replace the sway bar end links because I know those are in rough shape and they could cause similar symptoms. They're also cheap and easy to swap.
If that doesn't work I'm thinking it's the upper strut mounts, but if I'm in there doing those I'll probably replace the UCAs and LCAs because I'm in there and they're getting tired.

At least for me it is not the thrust arms because those are new and they were installed correctly.

No issue under braking. How long have you had this issue? I got this car from the GF about 1500 miles ago (she of course hasn't noticed of the clunk before LOL). Already changed serpentine & AC belts, spark plugs, coils, installed hitch receiver/harness, backup camera.

Been working on the car more than I driven.

Dekero,

How long did it take you to replace them? Also, if you can provide the part # for reference so I have an idea what to order for my year. I have a trip next Thursday to which will be around 700 total miles. I think I should be fine driving like this before changing them.

[Dekero]

I used parts from eeuroparts.com by a new company called Bison, they are a US company and their pricing is amazing... And currently on sale here's links to each side.. it took me about 2-3 hours to do it all plus had an alignment done afterward.


Left

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bison...ance/BPSS03280

Right

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bison...ance/BPSS03279


The price is so good I highly recommend replacing the lower control arm at the same time...as it helps to move the lower arm out the way when installing the thrust arm.. this they get unbolted... And in my book if they get unbolted...they don't go back on... They get replaced. Here's links

Left

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bison...ance/BPSS03282

Right

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bison...ance/BPSS03281

[svho]

Originally Posted by Dekero

I used parts from eeuroparts.com by a new company called Bison, they are a US company and their pricing is amazing... And currently on sale here's links to each side.. it took me about 2-3 hours to do it all plus had an alignment done afterward.


Left

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bison...ance/BPSS03280

Right

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bison...ance/BPSS03279


The price is so good I highly recommend replacing the lower control arm at the same time...as it helps to move the lower arm out the way when installing the thrust arm.. this they get unbolted... And in my book if they get unbolted...they don't go back on... They get replaced. Here's links

Left

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bison...ance/BPSS03282

Right

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bison...ance/BPSS03281

Did you do one side first and go for a test drive or do both sides the same time? I just order the left parts for now. Will replace right side after I am satisfied . Btw, do you have the torque specs?

Thanks again, looks like my 2009 3.0 uses the same parts as yours.

[jbash87]

Originally Posted by svho

Did you do one side first and go for a test drive or do both sides the same time? I just order the left parts for now. Will replace right side after I am satisfied . Btw, do you have the torque specs?

Thanks again, looks like my 2009 3.0 uses the same parts as yours.

I did both at the same time because jacking up the car takes time and isn't worth dropping inbetween sides. When my left side failed I only replaced that thrust arm. Again, this did not fix my issue, but it seems ours are slightly different.

Torque specs are 80NM for the spindle side and 100NM + 90degrees for the frame side. Frame side MUST BE DONE with the suspension loaded. All hardware should be replaced too.

Please report back on the Bison parts. I've not heard of them. Most folks move to the Meyle HD over Lemforder when they get tired of having the fluid filled bushings leak. I'm close...

[cayx5]

Most folks move to the Meyle HD over Lemforder when they get tired of having the fluid filled bushings leak. I'm close...[/QUOTE]

Are the Meyle bushings on the frame side not fluid filled? I'm also at the point of switching brands.

FCP has already replaced both of the Lemforder tension struts under warranty. First set leaked after 5k miles, now one of the warranty replacement struts is leaking after 6k miles. I watched the shop install the tension struts the last time. Final torque done with suspension loaded. I'm really disappointed with these OE replacement struts.

[jbash87]

Originally Posted by cayx5

Are the Meyle bushings on the frame side not fluid filled? I'm also at the point of switching brands.

That is my understanding. Turner's website mentions it in the description.

[X535dee]

I had a similar issue. Thing is you can try and describe the issue but with suspension it's tough to pin point over forums. MY issue was small clunk from drivers wheel over. Small bumps and did not matter whether I was braking or not. Ended up being the sway end link. Ordered one and swap was under 30min for me. Issue fixed. Good luck.

[Bengineer330]

Also check the grommet on-top of the spring perch. It’s easy to see with the hood open. If that is disintegrated you’ll be able to use your body weight to push the front fender down and the top of the spring will move. You’ll also get a clunk over everything like you explain. I replaced ALL my front control arms for the fix to ultimately be a $5 grommet.

[jbash87]

Update:
Unfortunately the sway bar end links did not solve my issue. I didn't have high hopes but knowing they were bad and them being quick and easy seemed like a good place to start.

Because I'll need an alignment for the other possible suspects I'll be replacing everything but the thrust arms all at once. I'll inspect it all off the car and report back what I find.

[Dekero]

I really see NO LOGIC in only replacing one side thrust arm when they cost less than $40 bux...

But hey it's your truck... Nothing like having to do an alignment twice.

[svho]

Got the 3 parts (end link and two arms). Do I need to use loctite?

[E30Darkknight]

Originally Posted by Bengineer330

Also check the grommet on-top of the spring perch. It’s easy to see with the hood open. If that is disintegrated you’ll be able to use your body weight to push the front fender down and the top of the spring will move. You’ll also get a clunk over everything like you explain. I replaced ALL my front control arms for the fix to ultimately be a $5 grommet.

Am going to say 90% of the time that grommet/bushing is the cause of clunk. It’s made of that a foam material, so it falls apart over time.

[svho]

Changed the end link during lunch today and the clunking still there. The grommet checked out fine.

I will change the thrust arm next

[Bengineer330]

Before spending $$$$ on all the front controls arms just try the top perch grommet. Its an extremely easy cheap thing to try before tearing into EVERYTHING.

you'll need two of each part number. One does come up as control arm locking nut but its the same.

33326760668

31336778108

[jbash87]

Bengineer330 I will check the grommets today. The reason I was going to replace most everything else is because it is all old and I'll need an alignment for each component being replaced so I figured I would only do that once.

Can I remove the top nut on the spring to inspect the grommet w/o removing the assembly from the vehicle? I've never done it that way but I think it should be possible..?

[RL18]

Originally Posted by Bengineer330

Also check the grommet on-top of the spring perch. It’s easy to see with the hood open. If that is disintegrated you’ll be able to use your body weight to push the front fender down and the top of the spring will move. You’ll also get a clunk over everything like you explain. I replaced ALL my front control arms for the fix to ultimately be a $5 grommet.

^^ This. Most common cupprit especially on original suspension, not to mention a cheap fix like you said

[jbash87]

Originally Posted by RL18

^^ This. Most common cupprit especially on original suspension, not to mention a cheap fix like you said

I can do this w/o removing the strut assembly?

[Bengineer330]

No need to remove anything but a little bit of plastic to expose the top nut.

Then with a hex key and a wrench you take the top nut off (i used a crows foot for whatever reason). Then you tighten the new one down till it stops.

[svho]

How easy to access the grommet on the 2009 X5 (3.0)? I already bought the arms with the endlink and about to attempt the thrust arm replacement later after my noon nap

I would like to add to my original post that the SUV under hard braking will make noise on the same side.