Spark Plug Change DIY - N63 V8

[heatmizr]

*** EDIT ***

I did this job and have posted my full DIY write up below on post #15 of this thread.

***********


Cannot find one for this engine on YouTube, or this forum or Outpost forum.

In lieu of the above, how different is it from the 4.8 liter V8, or the S63?

Thanks for any info...

[jandref321]

There are lots of F10 N63 DIYs on youtube/forums. You could probably use those or the S63 ones. Either way it's simple...the coils/plugs sit on the top of the V; slightly challenging to get to cylinder 4 & 8 in the rear, but if you have different size extensions then you should be fine.
You should be able to just remove the air boxes, pull out the coils, pull out the old plugs and throw in the new ones.
Make sure you have the special thin walled socket and not the normal 5/8 spark plug socket. You can buy the special one on amazon or ECS or BMS.

N63 DIY:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFtqLoQzews

[heatmizr]

You make it sound like a 1 beer job!
Thank you sir... Encouraging to hear.

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by heatmizr

You make it sound like a 1 beer job!
Thank you sir... Encouraging to hear.

Happy to help. It took me 2.5 hours on the S63 taking my time since that was the first maintenance I did on the car after I bought it. Always feels good getting to know your car. Enjoy!

[heatmizr]

And no trouble with the rear plug driver's side, as mentioned on countless older V8 DIYs?
Did you need the flexible socket extension to handle the 5-deg bend at the plugs?

[jandref321]

Do our engines have a bend? I've seen some videos on the newer ones that have a bend requiring the flexible-special socket...I didn't have any trouble with a normal special socket. I think the driver's rear was the toughest. I used three different extensions and a flex joint there. You can't put a single, long extension in there since it's blocked from above. I had to attach a short extension to the socket then drop in another extension, then a flex coupler, then extension then wrench...I think. Maybe it wasn't as easy as I first described...I noticed the problem and had a few extensions so it didn't slow me down. I'm not sure the swivel joint is even necessary. Sorry for memory fail...Serious excuse: Jehovah's Witnesses came into my garage and were talking to me for 10-15 minutes while I was trying to work. I kept working while they were there but was distracted by my wife preaching science to them. No joke.

Here is the DIY I followed:
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1080563

[Ryan5034]

I just did mine and the coils about 2 months ago. The spark plugs I bought a thin wall socket and used it (Schwaben) and it worked great.

When you put the new spark plugs in they are not at the same angle as the hole in the head, that's why you need the flexible or universal joint. Just keep that in mind when you are threading the new plugs in. I was super paranoid and careful to avoid cross threading etc. I was able to thread down the plugs by hand then torque.

Plugs I used BMW OEM brand, the coils I used generic Bosch branded.

Previously I had intermittent misfire at WOT and full boost, Full power and no misfires now. I was quite sure I had a bad coil, but replaced it all not knowing previous history. 78k miles.

Also be aware that the plastic engine partition that you have to remove is super fragile and will probably break. Might consider ordering it in advance. I bought the super cheap Chinese version on Ebay and it's fits C+ . but it's $42 and seals it up and it's covered up at the end of the day. YMMV

Good luck, and take your time.

[Ryan5034]

Here is all the plastic crap that comes off. Crazy!

[beachcomberx5]

It takes more time to remove all the crap than change the coils and plugs. Did mine twice. Once at 78k and once at 106k. 30k miles and the plugs are toast on the N63. To reach #4 and #8 you need to remove the sway bars and use a 12" extension. Make sure you screw in new plugs by hand all the way until you need to tighten down. Also get a torque wrench. The plugs have the torque specs on the box. If they don't go in smooth the back off and keep trying. Trick is to notice the angle of the socket extension when removing old plugs.

Coils are a pain to remove and a good idea to replace all at the same time. You can buy a coil pull kit from VW. I think it fits but not 100% sure. Or use a small screw driver threw the retaining clip and pull up just make sure you hold the sides of the clip with your other hand or the clip will pull off.

Final thought. Be careful putting rubber intake boots back on. If not you could get an error code for to rich intake. These might crack when wrestling to remove and put back on. I also replaced these as well.

[heatmizr]

Thanks for all the awesome info gents! I better clear my bench for all that plastic
So that DIY is for the S63 M engine, its the same as N63?

So how do I know what the correct special plug socket is, search by N63 or.. Anyone got a link for what they used?

[beachcomberx5]

Oh yeah one more tip. Duct tape the socket to the extension. If not and socket pulls off good luck.

Also the socket has a rubber gasket inside to hold the plug. I just use a little dielectric grease to lube the ring for a smooth fit and no problems when pulling out the socket/extension.

Check bavauto or pelican for socket.

[JoeyBimX5din]

The spark plug holes have this weird offset to them. I bought a 3/8 drive double swivel (it has a swivel on the socket end, and the end the ratchet goes into, as well as a socket lock) that has come in handy doing the spark plugs on my Hemi, and it helped doing them on the BMW to. I may post pictures of it, it looks quite funny, but it is my new go to spark plug setup.

[heatmizr]

Thanks Joey. I would think a single swivel joint in the right location (where the hole bends) would be all you need. But knowing the distance from the plug socket that the bend occurs would be helpful...

[JoeyBimX5din]

If you notice the spark plug socket on the end, this was used for my jeep. I did use this on my BMW to. Timesaver for sure

[heatmizr]

N63 SPARK PLUG CHANGE DIY
SUCCESS!
Ok this wasn't a bad job all in all. 45k miles in and a fairly clean engine bay.
Took me about 4 hours going slow and removing a bit more stuff to get good access (see below).
THANKS to all for the info supplied before me, and the other pics in this thread....

I purchased the correct "bi-hex" plug socket in advance for under $10:
https://www.ebay.com/i/201434600961?chn=ps&dispItem=1
and a set of 8 Bosch spark plugs from ECS Tuning for $76 - p/n 12120037580KT2KT, ECS p/n 2794871

TOOLS:
A couple diff sockets for various hose clamps -6mm and bolts -10mm, brace bolts -15mm.
A small torx bit for shroud silver screws,
Ratchet + one or two 8" extension +u-joint + spark plug socket (above) - (I duct taped the socket to the u-joint to the extension, but since the above plug socket has metal grippers inside and not rubber, it didn't feel like it would have gotten stuck on the plugs. Test fit yours and use your judgement. Having it pull off your ratchet and get stuck on the plug would NOT be fun)
Torque wrench for installing new plugs (17 lb-ft)

The process is a bit like the above X5M S63 DIY link (http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1080563)
However there were some differences on the N63:
- Fold away black bulb over the spark plugs - This did not exist
- Remove the coolant reservoir tank - This did not apply
- I had to remove a few other bits...

Basically I did THIS:
1 - Remove silver engine top cover, Its got 4 or 5 little connecting nubs underneath that seat into receiving holes.

2 - Pull out/remove the long L&R molded plastic air ducts that run from above radiator to the air filter housings. They basically just pull right off front and rear, might have to wiggle them a bit.

3 - I removed the two plastic trim pieces along windshield (turn plastic nuts 90-deg, pull out). Then under those, remove all three plastic bulkhead shrouds (aka engine partition), L & R, then Center. NOTE which screws you pull out from where, you will need to re-install the black ones near the fenders, and the silver ones more toward the center.
*These shrouds are the ones noted in another thread that get brittle and crack and can leak water onto the engine (I know there are part #s listed in that thread). Two of mine were cracked severely (R&C). Passenger side was ok, but I ran down to BMW dealer and bought a set of 3 new ones. Keep and re-use original screws!
Sorry, I should have taken pics of all these but its just trim Instead here is a link to a thread with a video of removal of these parts, as well as the cabin air filter in Step 4 below:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=899282

4 - Remove the Cabin air filter housing on passenger side. A few plastic screw nuts just rotate 90-deg and it pulls up and out. See video above. Good time to install a new set of cabin air filters.

5 - With the shrouds and Cabin air filter housing out of the way you can now easily access and remove the two silver aluminum strut tower braces that connect from each wheel well to the center of the bulkhead.

6 - Remove the short rubber L&R boots between the front of the air filter housings and the turbo inlets. 2 hose clamps each.
*Notice how far each rubber boots overlap on the front and rear plastic pieces, and try to fit them the same way on re-assembly.

7 - On each L&R air filter housing, need to unplug the sensor wire connector on the front edge, release metal locking tab on red locating nub. On Driver side air filter housing, there is a large black braided hose that you need to unhook from a clip on the housing before you remove it.

8 - Pull each air filter housing straight up while rocking it a bit. There are 2 locating nubs on the bottom that will just pull free. Now is the time to install new air filters into these housings, as I should have...)
Behold, you can see all 8 coils now! The connectors on top are marked with the little white dots on them.
NOTE you can now also see the two "nubs" on the head that the air filter housing seats onto...


With the above shroud and brace removed, there is NO ISSUE getting to the rearmost coil/plug.


And Passenger side... Why does the front coil have TWO white dots??


*Before step 9 I used a leaf blower to blow all dust and foreign items away from the heads...

9 - My coils all pulled off with no drama. First you lift the connection clips up to disconnect the plug wires. I used a large screwdriver through the hole in the now raised clip, and firmly pulled them stright up and off. A few of mine had a satisfying suction pop when they came off.
Note - The most forward coil on each side of the engine faces/connects to the plug wire toward the front, while the rest connect toward the rear. Remember this for re-install. Also those same coils are a bit crowded by other wiring, but you can bend that stuff a little to gain access ok.

A few of the coils!


10 - I changed the 4 driver side plugs first, using the proper spark plug socket/u-joint/extension combo. A little muscle should remove them without issue. Finger thread in new plugs at first to make sure they are correct. I had zero issues getting them threaded. Note the 5-deg angle upward of the plugs in the hole. Torque spec is on the box for the plugs - 17 lb-ft. I did not use any anti-seize; should I have??


*At 45k miles, my old plugs were a medium grey color and dry. I think that's good Though check out the one on the right with more crud buildup than the rest...
Overall I would say that these ought to be changed a bit more often than the 45k the dealer told me.
Driver side

Passenger side


11 - Replace all coils, facing same direction they were to begin with - front one to the front, rear three toward the rear. You can slightly rotate them before pushing all the way in. Connect plug wires and swing the top latch down to fully seat the connectors. On a couple coils I found it easier to connect the wiring BEFORE pushing the coil quite all the way in.
After wiring is connected and latch is pushed down you can push on the top of that connector/latch to firmly seat the coils down onto the plugs.

12 - Proceed to Passenger side. Very much the same as Driver side.

13 - Re-Assembly is exactly reverse of the above going from step 8 to step 1. Connect the wiring connectors where needed. Gently rock the air filter housings back onto their underneath nubs while pushing them down (taking a glance at the underside to see where they fit helps, see the nubs on the heads in above pics)

DONE!

If I need to do this again I should be able to cut the time in half easily.

Additional notes on plastic shrouds (step 3):
- I read another thread and these "shrouds" I keep referring to are also known as the "engine partitions".
- The new set of 3 OE pieces were $190 with CCA discount! But they seem to be a different material, maybe more composite than plastic. Hopefully an improvement. Also, the middle piece of the three connects to yet a FOURTH plastic piece up under the windshield. THIS piece partially disintegrated on me when I tried to re-attach the center piece to it. I intend to purchase a new one and replace it soon. Only the shrouds need to be removed to access this piece. I hope! Will look at the parts diagrams first.
- Part #s are 51.71.7.169.419 / 51.71.7.169.420 / 51.71.7.169.421

[shark715]

Thanks Heatmizr, I'm about to do mine.

[celluloidheros]

Thx heatmizr. I just did mine today, Changed all the plugs. Air and cabin filters. Took my time and cleaned the plug holes with compressed air. Whole job took 7 hrs but I was taking my time. Put it all back together and started with no codes. Hardest part was the rubber couplings, you really do have to slide them forward and stretch them to put them back on properly. I bet the dealer would have wanted 1000.00 or more for what i just did and would never do as clean a job as we do on our own cars. Taking pictures as you go can never hurt. just snap one every 20 mins in case you need a reference for something. I found if I put the left stuff on one pile and the right stuff on another pile it helped. Funny how much crap you have to remove to get to the coils. #8 was a breeze with the alum. bars removed. Are they sway bars or stabilizers, anti deformation bars ? Noticed there's a big one above the radiator too...

I bought my first BMW when i was 15 in 1979 (a 1971 1600 with a seized engine for $200) , had one ever since... Thx, Don

[heatmizr]

Nice Don! Yes a satisfying maintenance task.
Since I changed them the single misfire code I got once never came back either.

I think those struts are just body bracing, to make the front stiffer. I was just thankful I could remove them, sounds like that is not an option on the M, or ppl entirely missed removing them.

[JoeyBimX5din]

you can go either or. I have one bolt that is stripped out and will not come out, so I work around them. Removing them does make it an easier job, but is not required. I can work around them with the crazy swivel I have to get into the space to get the plugs

[TurnOne]

Replaced 6 coils/plugs today. The other 2 were replaced by dealer since I had gotten the CEL a couple weeks ago. So I figure i'll do the remaining since they wanted over $2K to do them all!! Not a bad job, just need some patience. I can now see why this engine has problems it does. Plastics were brittle and easily broken off. Thanks for the write up and insight from everyone.

The write up above was very useful along with other videos on Youtube. I've been wanting a X5M but these V8's are making me think twice and three times. Some have said the S63 is better but how much better? Are the current N63s any better than their predecessors? I've got 130k on the clock and my goal is 150k. The valve seals were replaced under CPO and it's burning oil again I'm hearing the typewriter chattering too but I digress....

[JoeyBimX5din]

Typewriter chatter?

I still for the life of me cannot figure out why people consider coil packs a service item, I replace them as they drop out, and I have not lost one yet. I may be an oddity, because I do know they go bad.

I wish someone built a bulletproof one. The coils that I had in a 300zx I owned last literally forever. The two coil packs that fire two banks of my current 4.6 in my Tbird last forever also. I wish someone would come around and build a coil pack that should never fail.

[TurnOne]

Yeah the typewriter chatter is an indication the wastegates of the turbos are on the way out...New turbos soon. No CEL yet