2011 X5 50i Buyers Advice

[carbonM]

*Edited - I mistyped and wrote 12k miles but its actually 120k*

I'm looking at purchasing a 2011 BMW 50i x5 w/M option with 120k miles. It's very clean and has had two owners. Current owner has all the receipts for the work completed over the years. I'm a lurker on the forums and have read all the issues with these cars but typically I see people saying they have anywhere between 40-80k miles.

Could anybody offer some advice for things I should look for that could be a red flag? Should I look for specific maintenance on the receipts that has been completed?

Thanks!

[jiggz]

1st off, most people here will think you're nuts considering a 50i with 120K miles. Actually, most people here are scared of 50i's with 40K miles.

If you can get it for the right price (mid teen's I would think?), and the maintenance is as good as you say, it could be the performance bargain of a lifetime given the depreciation of these vehicles. I can't think of another 15K SUV that could touch a 50i M Sport in regards to looks, power/torque, and fun to drive.

You still need to figure stuff is going to fail, and it's always costly. Be ready for it. Maybe even look into a warranty. But again, if you buy it cheap enough, it could all be worth it.

Big ticket items? Valve guide seals, about $9K at dealer. Upper oil pan gasket, $3K at dealer. Coolant lines to the turbos fail about ever 50K, those were $1500-$2000K as I recall. I think purchasing this vehicle would depend a lot on what specifically has already been done to it, and at what mileage.

Just my .02.

[carbonM]

Thanks Jiggz, The price is pretty good and I'm having a buyer's inspection completed on the car so I'm hoping that will offer some addition info. I feel comfortable being able to do all the work myself as I have been working on cars for a long time. But obviously what I don't want is the engine to blow up and have a costly bill.

[JoeyBimX5din]

Do you complete your own service work and repairs? If you do, keeping up with a 50i is no more hateful then anything else, as long as you are ok waiting for parts. Parts stores don't seem to stock ANYTHING for these trucks. The dealers do, but they can get pricey.

No, 12-16k for this truck even with 120k, these things are ROCKETS. I love mine even with her issues.

Do the records show any major repairs or any other things? This would be a positive in my book, for example, you see a module has been replaced before, you know the life of that module may be extended.

Got any pictures of the truck?

[carbonM]

yes, I have always done my own work because I want to pick the part manufacturer if OEM is too pricey or not available. I also like to know the job was done right. Just piece of mind I guess. I don't mind having to order parts. I'm use to that with my past BMWs.

The inspection came back with some normal wear and tear stuff that will need to be done soon, brakes, front control arm bushings, and brake fluid flush. Two more serious items was a possible oil and coolant leak at rear bottom of engine. Tech said they weren't sure of the source. The rear HVAC system wasn't working at all. Since it was just an inspection they didn't diagnosis.

The records show a computer module replacement around 30k miles. Other than that just normal wear and tear services.

[TKR]

Originally Posted by carbonM

Two more serious items was a possible oil and coolant leak at rear bottom of engine.

So yes, car needs upper oil pan gasket replacement, like all 50i's need around 80-100k.
The coolant leak is probably turbo coolant lines, which is separate loop from engine coolant.

Coolant pipes and (sometimes clamps only) you can replace yourself.

The upper oil pan gasket is unfortunately a tricky one. Engine has to be supported above, and the subframe dropped down at least 3 inch. Again you can DIY with a lift and proper ISTA instructions.

Dealers quote near 4k for that gasket work. It's 12 hours job and Indy shops quote close 2k as well. That's why the car is for sale.

Other than those fixes, drive the engine warm and let idle 5mins. Then hit gas pedal. If a massive cloud of smoke comes out, valve stem seals need replacement. Dealers do it for 10k, and it can be done cheaper with AGA N63 kit.

While test driving, listen any whines from the drive train. If the car ever had non-bmw-certified tires, the transfer case might become loud or make popping sounds when cornering. It's around 1k remanufactured part.

After all these fixes, the truck is ready for another 100k miles Fantastic car to drive when front tension arms and bushings are tight and wheel alignment is good.

[carbonM]

Hey thanks for the info that is really helpful.

The upper gasket sounds like a pain in the ass. Is there a way to check if that is the actual leak before really taking it apart?

No smoke I checked for that when I test drove it. It drove well with no noticeable noises from the drive train.

[socale39]

I know the power is intoxicating and the price might be attractive but I would seriously consider the “what if’s” when considering a 50i outside of warranty.

[UglyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by socale39

I know the power is intoxicating and the price might be attractive but I would seriously consider the “what if’s” when considering a 50i outside of warranty.

This

[Cattivo]

I've owned the 50i for 4 years now with little to no issues...ever since hitting 90k miles, it's been drinking a quart of oil every 7-10 days

[carbonM]

Originally Posted by Cattivo

I've owned the 50i for 4 years now with little to no issues...ever since hitting 90k miles, it's been drinking a quart of oil every 7-10 days

I have read about the valve stem seals failing causing increased oil consumption. It's definitely a job if you wanted to tackle it yourself. Most importantly you need the correct tools. Buying them is expensive but I believe there is some shops out there renting them.

[carbonM]

Originally Posted by UglyBuzzard

This

lol i can't tell if you are agreeing this guy or not.

[UglyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by carbonM

lol i can't tell if you are agreeing this guy or not.

Agree with. Fun truck but have a warranty.

[carbonM]

Originally Posted by UglyBuzzard

Agree with. Fun truck but have a warranty.

Have you had a lot of issues with yours?

[UglyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by carbonM

Have you had a lot of issues with yours?

Valve seals, injectors, new turbos, some other minor stuff. 48k miles

[j6yd]

buy mine!

I'm just about to have the rear oil seal replaced before i sell, only selling because I want something more Utah 4x4 friendly, its had 5k oil changes and just touched 103k. 2nd owner 2011 carbon black m-sport, wo/rear dvd, wo/hud but every other option.

[carbonM]

Originally Posted by j6yd

buy mine!

I'm just about to have the rear oil seal replaced before i sell, only selling because I want something more Utah 4x4 friendly, its had 5k oil changes and just touched 103k. 2nd owner 2011 carbon black m-sport, wo/rear dvd, wo/hud but every other option.

PM sent

[carbonM]

Originally Posted by UglyBuzzard

Valve seals, injectors, new turbos, some other minor stuff. 48k miles

Alright that sucks, but you are in the mileage range that most people were reporting these kinds of issues.

Why did you need new turbos?

[j6yd]

I'd be interested to know what kind of service intervals everyone is using?

When it comes to the coolant lines I think it's better to just run the car without the engine cover, the cover keeps the heat contained which is far from ideal given its exhaust temps.

I had a coolant line clamp fail so I removed the cover and its been fine ever since. If i were to keep mine i'd wrap the downpipes and get the turbo jacket plus relocate some of the connections on top that probably bare the brunt of all the heat.

[JoeyBimX5din]

Originally Posted by carbonM

yes, I have always done my own work because I want to pick the part manufacturer if OEM is too pricey or not available. I also like to know the job was done right. Just piece of mind I guess. I don't mind having to order parts. I'm use to that with my past BMWs.

The inspection came back with some normal wear and tear stuff that will need to be done soon, brakes, front control arm bushings, and brake fluid flush. Two more serious items was a possible oil and coolant leak at rear bottom of engine. Tech said they weren't sure of the source. The rear HVAC system wasn't working at all. Since it was just an inspection they didn't diagnosis.

The records show a computer module replacement around 30k miles. Other than that just normal wear and tear services.

How sure are they the rear HVAC is inop? You can disable it through iDrive, it may just be turned off.

[JoeyBimX5din]

Originally Posted by j6yd

I'd be interested to know what kind of service intervals everyone is using?

When it comes to the coolant lines I think it's better to just run the car without the engine cover, the cover keeps the heat contained which is far from ideal given its exhaust temps.

I had a coolant line clamp fail so I removed the cover and its been fine ever since. If i were to keep mine i'd wrap the downpipes and get the turbo jacket plus relocate some of the connections on top that probably bare the brunt of all the heat.

I know it isn't a lot of folks cup of tea(or their states are CRAZY), but you could go catless DP's, that should take a bit of heat away from that space.

I would worry about heat soaking the intake components running without the cover, it holds a ton of heat I agree with you. I did my coil pack when it was 28*s here the other day. I ran an errand with the truck, then did the pack, pulling the cover off you could feel this wave of heat come rushing out, it does hold a ton of heat

[carbonM]

Originally Posted by JoeyBimX5din

How sure are they the rear HVAC is inop? You can disable it through iDrive, it may just be turned off.

I haven't been back to check the operation of it since the seller took it in for the inspection but the mechanic could have missed it. However when I told the seller about it he didn't dispute that it wasn't working.