12-11-2020, 09:56 AM | #1 |
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E70 X5M or E71 X6M?
Hello all,
I am coming from the world of Audi's and potentially considering an X5/6M. My previous cars include B7 S4, B7 RS4, and a couple B8 S4's (1 DSG and 1 manual which is my current vehicle). My wife and I are expecting a baby girl and I am looking to get something with more size than my current S4 (could probably be serviceable but with a kid and a dog it's likely going to be small). I absolutely love high revving NA V8's (loved my RS4) and my realistic dream car is a e90 M3 but I'm not convinced that an e90 is justifiable given my, soon to be, situation (not to mention I live in a region with considerable amounts of snow). Initially I was considering a Jeep SRT (or SRT8) but I'm not sure that I can justify them given lackluster performance (as compared to an X5/6M) and their insane prices...Ideally I would look for a 14+ SRT but for $35k you are talking about a high mileage example, whereas you can get a mint (or what appears to be mint) X5/6M for sub $30k. This leads me to the E70/71 X5/6M... Aesthetically I think they have aged well (dated compared to the F85 yes). I am seeing that stock they are capable of running in the mid-high 12's at around 112MPH (give or take) which is PLENTY of power for a stock 5000+ lbs tank. For $25-30k I am not sure of an SUV that I would rather have (a '12+ ML63 would be nice as well but I am more partial to BMW). My questions are as follows: -Is this a good idea or have I lost my mind? Reliability wise I have heard the S63 is better than the N63 engine but is that really saying much? Ideally I would be looking for a cherry example (minimal previous owners) from a legitimate dealer (not Jim and Tony's down on the corner). -How "bad" is this transmission? Obviously not a dual clutch transmission that is found in the e9x M's. I am a manual guy at heart but, given the situation, I realize that I will have to adapt. Is this transmission reasonably responsive? Any other words of wisdom will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance guys, Adam |
12-11-2020, 10:10 AM | #2 |
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Sounds like you are interested in space, so I would definitely say the X5M over the X6M, for the rear space and roofline for the rear seat. I have had 2 car seats with lots of space, or a single rear facing car seat and 2 adults in the back of mine.
Without having a ton of other experience with auto trans, I am happy with the 6HP, and if you drive it in manual with the paddle shifters, it is great. The most common complaint is a harsh 2-3 shift at low load, and that can usually be fixed with a fluid change and valvebody update. The engine itself seems very reliable, as aside from the random horror stories, there are plenty of us with rigs over 130K miles now, and pushing more than factory power. The biggest items to deal with are the plastics under the hood, mainly vacuum lines and coolant lines in the front of the hot vee, as well as the drain lines from the turbo. Oil leaks are common on the drain block, as well as the seal ring on the vacuum pump, and the oil pan gaskets. Other issues that seem to pop up are misfires due to plugs or coils, or injectors getting stuck open, so checking that they are the latest index 12 injectors is always a plus. Personally, if you find a low mileage well maintained example in the color/ option package that you want, I think they are a solid choice. |
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12-11-2020, 10:34 AM | #3 | |
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Yes from the sounds of it, the X5M would be a better choice for me size-wise. |
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12-11-2020, 11:55 AM | #4 |
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You really can't go wrong with a well kept, low mileage '13 X5M. It's updated, capable and unique enough that gives you a sense of satisfaction to not think of immediately jumping ship.
On the other hand, you should also need to be aware of things like spark plug replacement, vacuum lines and oil pan gaskets are common service items that get pricey. Oil pan gasket replacement can be upwards of $4k at the dealership, and that's discounted. Because of the high carbon buildup, you'd also want to be running fuel cleaner quite regularly too. Major items like transmission and other engine issues have never been an issue for me.
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12-11-2020, 12:06 PM | #5 | |
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Any reason why you suggest a '13 other than the fact that it would be the newest E70 M? Is there any updates technologically speaking vs a 10, 11, or 12? For example, I know the 08 M3's had the garbage CCC iDrive system and then in 09+ it was updated to the CIC. |
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12-11-2020, 01:58 PM | #7 |
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Correct, it has the better CIC nav system and LCI taillights.
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12-11-2020, 04:57 PM | #8 |
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I would say that at this time, the service history of X5M is more important than what year model you got. Yes, ideally, with everything else equal, a 2013 would be preferable. But with what can go wrong with these vehicles, its history (specially those 15K mile oil changes) is going to be more important. My X5M has has a long history of major parts replaced (transmission, turbos, control arms, in addition to all the recall items) which actually is the reason I got it. almost 2 years now and 14K miles, not one CEL or hiccup, other than replacing the leaking expansion tank, which is minor. The one thing that I can say about the S63 compared to the N63 (BMW CPO 650i I had before), is that it does not burn oil as much (1/2 quart every 5K vs 0.5 quart every 1k miles), even though the N63 was lower mileage (64K vis 43K).
This SUV is a blast to drive for sure!
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12-11-2020, 05:20 PM | #9 | |
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https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...1&goto=newpost OP, it's a great car and I love my 13' as well. |
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12-11-2020, 05:23 PM | #10 |
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LED's for the Headlights and Tails were an extra option and I believe (Adaptive LED). The tails may have been stock LED on the M (can't remember) but the headlights for sure were an extra (hefty) option. I have them on my M and love them.
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12-11-2020, 10:14 PM | #12 | ||
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12-12-2020, 01:10 PM | #13 |
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Quick question, what does a full bolt on e70 X5 M run in the quartermile? Everything I’m finding has been from years ago so I’m looking for current stats. Stock I’m seeing 12.5@112 (motortrend), so I would figure that a twin turbo V8 would pick up some nice power with a tune and downpipes.
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12-12-2020, 02:54 PM | #14 |
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It's a DIY and the only thing you'll loose is your engine cover as it won't fit with the Catchcan setup mounted to the engine partition. Here's everything I listed i the thread that you'll need and I purchased it all on Amazon. You technically don't need the Heat Sleeve or Shrink Tube as you'll see in the thread I just used those to dress the hose up a bit and make the install look nice.
I bought EVERYTHING on Amazon (including the cans) as they were about $20-25 cheaper with Prime shipping!!! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I needed the 22 and 25mm clamps: 3 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 4 of these (come in 2 packs): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 4 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This hose is 25 foot so it gives you plenty to work with and spares for the future: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hose Dress/Insulation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hose Heat Shrink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here's a pic of it all installed and it works great: Last edited by Dave00; 12-12-2020 at 03:06 PM.. |
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12-12-2020, 09:15 PM | #15 | |
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