X5M Downpipe install

[Toneaero]

Originally Posted by m5james

4 jackstands at the stock locations will also get the height needed to do just about anything. I did a coilover install as well as a full suspension and cooling system rebuild this way just before Bimmerfest.

Nice! I had mine on ramps and it was a tight squeeze underneath. The skid plate has to be removed to gain access to the bottom flange nuts. The tough part is during the installation of the new pipes. You will be bouncing between the top side and bottom side over and over again to get the alignment right. It does help if you have a buddy to help.

[m5james]

I've done jackstands too...definitely tighter, but being able to lower or raise the transmission on my chest made for easier removal and installation at my mom's house.

With the concern of fitment issues, I'm half tempted to pay the exhaust shop to install the DP's (I'll do as much as I can short of the actual pipes to prep them), then if there's any issues, they can cut and adjust as needed...they'll be doing my muffler delete as well. Even with their help, I'll still be 1/4 the price of the other vendors.

[Toneaero]

Here is a video I made of what it would sound like with catless downpipes and muffler delete.

https://youtu.be/me3LHG9LTQk

[u2b]https://youtu.be/me3LHG9LTQk[/u2b]

[m5james]

Haha...mines white and appears to have the same Niche wheels as the gray one. I'll eventually get 22's, but they'll suffice for now. I recently put on 1" spacers to give them a better stance.

Sounds good...I've searched all over YouTube and only found a few videos yet somehow missed yours.

[Cattivo]

Originally Posted by Toneaero

Here is a video I made of what it would sound like with catless downpipes and muffler delete.

https://youtu.be/me3LHG9LTQk

[u2b]https://youtu.be/me3LHG9LTQk[/u2b]

I have AA 3'' catless dp's on order and already have the muffler delete(straight pipes) hopefully my truck will sound as good as yours

[Toneaero]

I had my exhaust shop do the following to my OEM exhaust:
*Straight pipe when the M button is engaged
*OEM muffler when the M button is disengaged

This allows me to have beast mode on when I want and OEM quiet when im doing my daily commute and driving through my neighborhood.

I'm pretty happy with the setup.

[Cattivo]

Originally Posted by Toneaero

I had my exhaust shop do the following to my OEM exhaust:
*Straight pipe when the M button is engaged
*OEM muffler when the M button is disengaged

This allows me to have beast mode on when I want and OEM quiet when im doing my daily commute and driving through my neighborhood.

I'm pretty happy with the setup.

Sounds like a nice setup but who drives their beast with the M button disengaged

[m5james]

Originally Posted by Cattivo

I have AA 3'' catless dp's on order and already have the muffler delete(straight pipes) hopefully my truck will sound as good as yours

Do you have a further away picture? I'm likely going to install an x-pipe in what would usually be the stock F10 M5/aftermarket X5M location once I measure the piping diameter.

[Cattivo]

Originally Posted by m5james

Do you have a further away picture? I'm likely going to install an x-pipe in what would usually be the stock F10 M5/aftermarket X5M location once I measure the piping diameter.

No that's all I took

[m5james]

Well go take another

[xpl0sive]

I'm going to be installing my AA downpipes next week. Just have a couple of questions...
1. Are there any gaskets I need to get from BMW?
2. What bolts should I use for the connection between the downpipe and exhaust?

[Toneaero]

Originally Posted by xpl0sive

I'm going to be installing my AA downpipes next week. Just have a couple of questions...
1. Are there any gaskets I need to get from BMW?
2. What bolts should I use for the connection between the downpipe and exhaust?

I bought some new gaskets for my install but to be honest, the original gaskets didn't look any different than the new ones. The gaskets ran about $30-45 at the dealer and wasn't worth it. I still smell fumes so it's not due to seal issues.

My downpipe came with bolts welded on so I can't help you there. I would however, buy a few extra brass exhaust nuts for $8 a piece since those will most likely be mangeled when removing the OEM downpipes off.

[X Driver]

Originally Posted by Toneaero

I had my exhaust shop do the following to my OEM exhaust:
*Straight pipe when the M button is engaged
*OEM muffler when the M button is disengaged

This allows me to have beast mode on when I want and OEM quiet when im doing my daily commute and driving through my neighborhood.

I'm pretty happy with the setup.

Same i did.. Nice Setup...

[m5james]

Originally Posted by Toneaero

I bought some new gaskets for my install but to be honest, the original gaskets didn't look any different than the new ones. The gaskets ran about $30-45 at the dealer and wasn't worth it. I still smell fumes so it's not due to seal issues.

My downpipe came with bolts welded on so I can't help you there. I would however, buy a few extra brass exhaust nuts for $8 a piece since those will most likely be mangeled when removing the OEM downpipes off.

I screwed up the passenger side gasket (#7) putting my downpipes in and then I've realized I don't have any gaskets (#4) on the downpipe to turbo clamps.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=18_0793

[xpl0sive]

I installed my ceramic coated AA downpipes last night. Didn't end up putting the stock pipe shields back in, just put the top one back on. We'll see how the heat is. Overall the job wasn't bad. I really do wish that AA dp's came with bolts welded on. It's such a tight area down there, I spent about two hours getting the bolts into the flanges and tightening them up. Driver side was the biggest pain since there is a driveshaft in the way.

[Toneaero]

Originally Posted by xpl0sive

I installed my ceramic coated AA downpipes last night. Didn't end up putting the stock pipe shields back in, just put the top one back on. We'll see how the heat is. Overall the job wasn't bad. I really do wish that AA dp's came with bolts welded on. It's such a tight area down there, I spent about two hours getting the bolts into the flanges and tightening them up. Driver side was the biggest pain since there is a driveshaft in the way.

I didn't put my heatshields back on either. Just the easier top portion was reinstalled. So far, after a few months now, still no noticeable heat difference in the cabin or in the engine bay. I guess catless downpipes run cooler than OEM with full heat shields.

[xpl0sive]

I actually found some melted plastic in my engine bay as I was taking everything apart. It seems the way the stock system is designed is still not good enough to contain the heat. Some pics attached...







I hope the part that melted off doesn't do anything lol

[Toneaero]

Originally Posted by xpl0sive

I actually found some melted plastic in my engine bay as I was taking everything apart. It seems the way the stock system is designed is still not good enough to contain the heat. Some pics attached...







I hope the part that melted off doesn't do anything lol

I'm not sure what that part is. Whatever it is, I didn't notice anything melted.

[Travis1807]

Originally Posted by Toneaero

I had my exhaust shop do the following to my OEM exhaust:
*Straight pipe when the M button is engaged
*OEM muffler when the M button is disengaged

This allows me to have beast mode on when I want and OEM quiet when im doing my daily commute and driving through my neighborhood.

I'm pretty happy with the setup.

How exactly is this done? I just got my 2013 X5M on monday and haven't been underneath it yet. is there some kind of electric cut out?

This sounds like a nice plan but I need further clarification. please explain I'm lost.

[RustyX5M]

Originally Posted by xpl0sive

Is there anyone here that can shed some light on what type of fastener is below the melted area? The fastener on the underside, not the top side. I'm in the process of removing the downpipe heat shields, and it seems the only thing holding the left and right heat shields together is the fastener underneath the middle portion, though I cannot find any documentation on what it is, and can't see it.

[m5james]

Looks like a T27.

[RustyX5M]

Originally Posted by m5james

Looks like a T27.

T27 internal bolt? The only way I see to get to it is from underneath the car so I plan on just shoving a bunch of extensions and universals to reach it. ...that is unless there's an easier way?

The disclaimer is that I am attempting to remove the left and right heat shields while leaving all top components and heat shields intact. If I can access this bolt I don't see why this couldn't be done...