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      04-17-2018, 08:42 AM   #1
boneca
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green residue and lights questions

Hi guys, couple of quick questions, maybe somebody can give me some advice

1st. I was replacing the engine bay partitions past weekend and when opened the top engine cover saw some amount of dry green residue near the top hoses. I'm not sure what is causing that and what should I do about it? Please let me know...
p.s. couple of bad pictures for reference...

2nd. this question is mostly for those who have Adaptive LEDs, recently I noticed when lights are on (low beam) the driver's side rings light up much dimmer than passenger side, same rings light up evenly high when on DRLs, again if anybody has any suggestions on how to fix it, I would defiantly appreciate it
I'm not able to take pictures of the uneven lighting, maybe my camera not that good...

Thanks all
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      04-17-2018, 09:35 AM   #2
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The greenish crust is dried coolant. The fix would be to replace the hoses and clamps, where they get super heated going to the turbos.
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      04-17-2018, 09:43 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colodano View Post
The greenish crust is dried coolant. The fix would be to replace the hoses and clamps, where they get super heated going to the turbos.
I appreciate the answer, does this mean that hoses or clamps getting bad and there is a leak? Just wondering how soon this needs to be addressed?
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      04-17-2018, 11:14 AM   #4
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It's a leak. If you look under that residue you will see the green stuff is dripping down below turbos. You can try to fix them in 3 phases:

1) replace the clamps and install them tighter. You can use generic ones with screwdriver tightening style. It will hold a while.

2) There might be room to shorten the hoses about 10mm. At least this is possible in 50i model X5. Cut them and tighten the clamps again to the fresh (now non squeezed) end of the hose. But not too tight this time.

3. Replace the coolant lines. It will be difficult to find the matching rubber pipes only, so you might have to buy the complete lines.
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      04-17-2018, 12:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKR View Post
It's a leak. If you look under that residue you will see the green stuff is dripping down below turbos. You can try to fix them in 3 phases:

1) replace the clamps and install them tighter. You can use generic ones with screwdriver tightening style. It will hold a while.

2) There might be room to shorten the hoses about 10mm. At least this is possible in 50i model X5. Cut them and tighten the clamps again to the fresh (now non squeezed) end of the hose. But not too tight this time.

3. Replace the coolant lines. It will be difficult to find the matching rubber pipes only, so you might have to buy the complete lines.
I appreciate the reply, very useful info! I will look in to it as to what is the best way to approach it!
I know this needs to be done but I assume this is not must be done ASAP thing, so I should have some time for additional research!
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      04-20-2018, 09:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneca View Post
I appreciate the reply, very useful info! I will look in to it as to what is the best way to approach it!
I know this needs to be done but I assume this is not must be done ASAP thing, so I should have some time for additional research!
when those pipes really start to leak you ll feel like a toxic smell in the cabin that burns nose and eyes pretty much.. then you can understand its time to change.. i had the same issue and changed those piping 1-2 month ago..
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      04-21-2018, 04:43 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by yco View Post
when those pipes really start to leak you ll feel like a toxic smell in the cabin that burns nose and eyes pretty much.. then you can understand its time to change.. i had the same issue and changed those piping 1-2 month ago..
I haven't noticed any smell and remember that my mechanic added coolant somewhat recently, this could be that he put little too much, not sure...
I will need to replace cabin air filters soon and will clean up the area so I can watch it once its cleaned.
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      05-25-2018, 02:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneca View Post
I haven't noticed any smell and remember that my mechanic added coolant somewhat recently, this could be that he put little too much, not sure...
I will need to replace cabin air filters soon and will clean up the area so I can watch it once its cleaned.
Those lines are actually a known week point on these vehicles. It doesn't have anything to do with too much coolant but more just age and thermal fatigue. The whole hose assemblies can be found for about $60 bucks each and you'll need two of them and they are different for each side. You can always source individual upgraded hosing and clamps but the easiest way is to just replace them.

Here's the OEM part numbers you need:
Return hose- 11537598343
Feed hose- 11537598341

Here's a youtube video on how to replace them
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      05-30-2018, 01:02 PM   #9
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I replaced a couple of the hoses and when removed you can see how the heat has deteriorated the rubber hose which allows coolant to seep through.

Regarding the LED headlights, did you recently do any coding or firmware update to the car? Maybe some of the parameters have changed. I just mounted these lights to the car and need to finish up the wiring so I can get things coded. At this point the rings light up evenly but the DRL don't work.
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      05-30-2018, 01:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philly42 View Post
I replaced a couple of the hoses and when removed you can see how the heat has deteriorated the rubber hose which allows coolant to seep through.

Regarding the LED headlights, did you recently do any coding or firmware update to the car? Maybe some of the parameters have changed. I just mounted these lights to the car and need to finish up the wiring so I can get things coded. At this point the rings light up evenly but the DRL don't work.
I'm planning to replace those hoses in a near future, in a mean time I just cleaned all residue in there while changing and washing filters past weekend, I want to monitor the condition first but I assume I will be replacing them anyway!

As far as LEDs goes, no I haven't changed anything coding wise since I did LED retrofit couple of years ago where I coded them myself.

I doubt that something has changed by itself, this could be another question to the dealer where I need to go to check on my keyless issue anyway!
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      05-30-2018, 04:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneca View Post
I'm planning to replace those hoses in a near future, in a mean time I just cleaned all residue in there while changing and washing filters past weekend, I want to monitor the condition first but I assume I will be replacing them anyway!

As far as LEDs goes, no I haven't changed anything coding wise since I did LED retrofit couple of years ago where I coded them myself.

I doubt that something has changed by itself, this could be another question to the dealer where I need to go to check on my keyless issue anyway!
If you don't mind I may pick your brain on the coding the LED lights.

The FRMs are known to have issues since BMW still provides warranty for them. That might be causing the light issue. Maybe the dealer will swap it out under warranty.
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      05-30-2018, 08:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philly42 View Post
If you don't mind I may pick your brain on the coding the LED lights.

The FRMs are known to have issues since BMW still provides warranty for them. That might be causing the light issue. Maybe the dealer will swap it out under warranty.
when I did retrofit I bought a brand new FRM3 module that was just updated to the latest
that was the only time I did that kind of coding, I had to install older version of Windows thru VMware on Macbook Pro, I bought a cable thru amazon and got all the needed software thru some forum links. It took a little bit of learning but I was able to complete coding successful. I haven't touch any coding (except Carly) since and I don't even have that laptop anymore. I might have cable and all the software I used laying somewhere.
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      05-30-2018, 10:25 PM   #13
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Dude just come over and I'll sort you out with the leak situation. Just dealt with this. Dealer wanted $1500+-? I solved it in 10 min with $5 worth of parts.
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      05-31-2018, 09:11 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by TheVazha View Post
Dude just come over and I'll sort you out with the leak situation. Just dealt with this. Dealer wanted $1500+-? I solved it in 10 min with $5 worth of parts.
ty bro, don't think that driving to LA to solve this is the best solution
but I'm glad it's doesn't take much time
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