04-11-2019, 07:25 PM | #23 |
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MUST HAVE'S: (2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1 (2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now if you want to do it on the cheap, just pick up some 5/8" and 1/2" heater hose and hose clamps and go to town. Will work just fine but wont be pretty... To do it right with the -AN fittings, you will need the following: (8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (4) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I will do a full write up when time permits but basically look at the pics above and you can see how you must cut the original fittings and then screw in the 3/8 NPT to -8An adapters (it will self thread, just lube up with some oil, fitment is super tight and perfect. You will need to drill and tap the inlet on the pressure value and screw in the 1/8" npt to -6an. Then assemble the hoses the proper length to wherever you want to have the cans at. They are super small so multiple mounting locations. Oh and say goodbye to you engine cover, wont fit with these hoses on NOBODY should have the heat-retaining POS on anyway.... BTW, ebay has better prices on everything, I just ordered from Amazon because #iamanimpatientbastard Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 04-11-2019 at 07:32 PM.. |
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04-11-2019, 07:39 PM | #24 |
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One more thing, I recommend taping the oil fill cap (notice two holes drilled in underside of cap so vacuum can reach gauge) to read the CC pressures and hook up a Vacuum/boost gauge and adjust your valves so your around -8 -10 psi (anymore then that and your engine will start sucking air through its front crank seal and sound like a slipping belt being murdered plus when you get around -14psi, shit gets weird, like oil winding up around the crank due to lack of air resistance so keep it -10 to -8psi is the happy spot at Idle. then just pull off the gauge and cap it with a rubber vacuum cap when your done.
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04-11-2019, 07:52 PM | #25 | |
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04-11-2019, 07:55 PM | #26 | |
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https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vargas-t...-flapper-dele/ Also, I'm hoping to find all billet parts, and ideas for a billet pressure valve vs brass? |
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04-11-2019, 08:43 PM | #27 |
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Here is where I would cut and insert the 3/8NPT to -8AN. This allows you to keep the crossover pipe. This is assuming the internal tube dimension is perfect for threading in 3/8" NPT as it is on the N63. So if when you are threading them in they are not super tight and perfect like the N63 let me know and will find suitable replacement. I am betting its the same though.
I know you have the adapters for the intake manifold tube but I put the cutline in there for those that dont. Hook up the Vacuum valve to the center port on the Catch Can, then the intake manifold connection to the Vacuum valve, your Valve cover connection to one of the side ports on the Catch can and the second stage scavenger/crossover tube connection to the other side port and you are good to go! |
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04-11-2019, 08:44 PM | #28 | |
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04-11-2019, 08:52 PM | #29 |
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Found one! This would work: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/150023/10002/-1
You would need to tweak its spring so its bascally just sitting there, stock it doesnt open until 5psi and the Scavenging system at best does -1 to -2 psi This has got me thinking about doing it to mine. Those flappers are so damn ugly and honestly probably why BMW tries to hide it with the engine cover |
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04-11-2019, 10:00 PM | #31 |
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Not quite sure I understand. The only stock check-valve we are taking out is the one located in the PCV tree right in the connection to the Intake Manifold tube because it sucks and is set to limit the CC vacuum to -.8 yes -0.8 PSI and thus why everyone's car smokes as soon as there is a little wear on the valve guides. This is replaced by the adjustable vacuum valve so we can set it to a proper -8 to -10psi that also serves as a one-way check valve (I've tested it to 120PSI so it will handle anything we throw at it).
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04-11-2019, 10:12 PM | #32 | |
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04-11-2019, 11:27 PM | #33 |
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Oh wow, interesting, I didnt know the passenger side had a different setup, I assumed they where identical...I will have to study this more and will get back to you. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for some parts, I'll ask them for the S63 version of the CCV tubes so I can study them in person and get back to you...I'm curious as to why BMW did it this way...
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04-11-2019, 11:40 PM | #34 | |
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I think the passenger side is mostly just pass through... the thing is because vacuum only comes from one side of the engine, it seems like the two cans would need to connect, like the crosspipe line. Or we need one can with 4 lines in... |
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04-12-2019, 10:38 AM | #35 | |
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Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 04-12-2019 at 10:45 AM.. |
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06-06-2019, 12:22 PM | #36 |
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Any update on this for the S63 motor? I'm very curious on the implementation of a catch can setup as I've got very low mileage on my 13' X5M (10K miles) and want to keep the oil out of the intake to keep the intake valve deposits at bay now and not have to worry about the buildup down the road. Any advise or write-ups would be wonderful.
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07-05-2019, 12:31 AM | #37 | |
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Interested in the S63 motor setup as well |
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02-28-2022, 09:51 AM | #38 |
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This thread has been super helpful!
Any chance you have a write up? I'm making plans to do this over a weekend, but would to see how you did the intake manifold side. I just installed the CPG Performance CAI and used some heater hose to connect the forward facing inlets to the CCV system... I'm embarrassed to look at it and to make it worse, I have that horrible whine at idle, like a belt is slipping! Not the bets look for a 750Li!!! |
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09-14-2023, 05:56 PM | #39 |
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Hi Everyone,
I appreciate the work you've done! I was researching creating a catch can for my 2013 550i. From your posts, everything sounds straightforward. The only part that confused me was adjusting the one-way valve. The way I understand it the valve should have zero resistance(of course it will always be some) when air goes one way and should block any air trying to go the opposite direction. I didn't get the point about "limiting the back pressure to -8 to -10psi." Could someone clarify this moment, please? |
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09-15-2023, 07:39 PM | #40 | |
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Drives: G12 B7,F02 750li,E70 X5M,E46M3
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09-25-2023, 05:15 AM | #41 |
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Update to this:
After I complete my intake manifold production (will be wrapped up by Mid October) I am going to produce a complete plug and play catch can solution for the E70 that anyone can install. Below are pics of its development and install on a F02. The E70 version will look nearly identical save for a updated base mount. The ugly brass pressure valve is now incorporated into the adapter for the lower CCV line for a much cleaner installation. Logo and anodizing colors can be changed be request. Cost will not be cheap, approx. 290 as machining and making these expensive and labor intensive. As mentioned before, it will come pre-made and plug- and play install nearly anyone can do. More updates to come next month after intake production is complete. |
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10-14-2023, 06:23 PM | #42 | |
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10-20-2023, 08:20 AM | #44 |
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Drives: G12 B7,F02 750li,E70 X5M,E46M3
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Latest update, cleaner more stronger CCV Flap Connections that Troy designed.
Troy can decide but some of you might have to send him your OEMs as the China copies do not work well; we tried them.. We can source OEM for 11157646086 Connecting Line 111060 $72.82 1 $72.82 11157646087 Connecting Line 111060 $72.82 1 $72.82 But if you want to have Troy send you the parts, and you make them yourself with cutting and tapping, that will likely be the best route. In a week or so, Troy can finalize who wants the CCV kits etc. you will want to use new or rather new flaps so you don't have a failure. Joe |
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