Reduced Power Engine Malfunction - Diagnosis Thread

[windsailor]

Thanks for the thread, had the lines issue solved by dealer. Noticed rough idle, 'laziness' to take off from 5th to 4 or 3rd gear and higher consumption, all sorted out after replacement.

Not an easy diagnose but, certainly easy to fix if you know what's wrong.

[protecon]

Originally Posted by m5james

Might be too soon to tell after only 5hrs of combined driving, but I'm pretty confident I've fixed my reduced power warning. The usual driving patterns that would kick off the warning haven't caused anything:

- WOT in M and Sport mode just before it's about to shift
- 75% throttle in low speed and high gear situations while sitting in traffic
- pretty much anything above 50% throttle while on the highway

I wasn't able just yet to replace ALL the vacuum lines as the front 4 lines are the hardest to access. Those are the ones coming off the front of both vacuum canisters and both wastegates, which ultimately connect to two different sensors on the front of the engine, mounted to a bracket that requires removal of the passenger intercooler, all of which are mentioned on a thread linked above.

The lines I did replace connect from the vacuum module/pump on the backside of the engine, which feeds to the rear of the vacuum canister on the passenger side. I also did the line that goes from the rear of the vacuum canister on the drivers side, goes overtop the engine and connects to two T's behind the passenger canister. See top picture.

Here's where I'm not sure which was my issue:
- the vacuum line coming off the back of the drivers side canister was fairly short and didn't have a nice gradual curve, but instead was tight. I can't say it was crimped, but who knows what could happen under vacuum
- the vacuum line that fed into the muffler exhaust valves were removed and plugged when I bought the truck. I figured why have more vacuum lines running than necessary, so I figured out which line feeds to the trunk. Note also that this line is 99% hard plastic and only switches to rubber at the trunk sensor and at the T behind the passenger side vacuum canister. See the T I removed on the bottom right picture, which is located to the right of #7 on the bottom left picture.
- since deleting the vacuum line running to the trunk, I was able to delete one T from the lines. See bottom right picture.

My advice...double check for kinks (i don't know why it was kinked at all since it was stock vacuum line) and if you've already deleted your muffler valves, go a step further and simply remove one T, eliminating a possible leak from the entire length of the truck. If you haven't deleted your muffler valves, remove that one T for shits and giggles anyways, then leave the line dangling there as there's no need to plug it since vacuum won't be going through it any longer. Just note that the valves won't open in M mode due to lack of vacuum.

Started getting this error under acceleration (usually in lower gears) where it would throw the Engine Fault - Reduced Power Mode and sound like it was running on half the cylinders. Usually I could make this reset itself on the fly after backing off the gas for a couple of seconds, but as it was pretty unpredictable, it was getting annoying. Guessed it was due to running higher boost with the JB4 module, but as it wasn't throwing a code when going into limp mode, figured it had to be outside of the management system - potentially same vacuum issue.

So I've just used James' idea above to replace some of the vacuum lines.

Replaced both sections that pass over the turbos (to the canister on the opposite side of the motor) by running high-temp 3mm ID silicone vacuum hose through some fire sleeve to try and make it last a bit longer. Removed the T-piece out of the loop (as James suggested) that connects to the exhaust solenoids and secured the valves open permanently.

Found when replacing the factory lines that some were quite easy to remove, which would suggest they've lost some of the original elasticity which could allow a leak path I guess. Seems to have fixed the problem, as tried to replicate conditions that usually cause the error and it hasn't popped up in the 30 mins of testing just now.

Will let you know if this is a confirmed fix.
It's booked in to do some dyno pulls next week, so fingers crossed this headache has gone away.

Here's a higher res schematic to show you where all the lines go.

[m5james]

I've yet to replace the 4 lines coming from the boost solenoids that run to the wastegates and vacuum canisters, but I haven't received the warning since. I'll likely do them this spring when I do the M5 headers (will arrive tomorrow) swap and Pure stage 2 turbos ( should be done in a couple more months) :-)

[Revnato]

Originally Posted by m5james

I've yet to replace the 4 lines coming from the boost solenoids that run to the wastegates and vacuum canisters, but I haven't received the warning since. I'll likely do them this spring when I do the M5 headers (will arrive tomorrow) swap and Pure stage 2 turbos ( should be done in a couple more months) :-)

Hell. Yes.

I can't wait to hear how the tu header swap + Pure Stage 2 turbos goes!

Do the tu headers bolt right up?? Who are you using to help with tuning? I spoke with velos and they said they would help with the tuning if I upgraded to stage 2.

You're ride is truly going to be one of a kind!

[m5james]

Yes, headers bolt right up to the block but the stock X5M turbos don't bolt up directly to the headers as the flanges are different. You can either get S63TU turbos as well (it's my understanding they're no different and they're exactly the same internally after Pure reworks them) or have your S63 turbo flanges machined to mate up with the S63TU headers. I'm just going the easier route and buying a set of S63TU turbos that'll have the Pure treatment.

Currently I'm running a Halim/HCP Tuning stage 2 tune, custom intake, gutted factory downpipes. I've got a set of aftermarket catless downpipes that are a full 3" and then I plan on copying the S63TU by adding an x-pipe and then MSR gave me some advice to use Vibrant resonators to duplicate their system since it's highly unlikely he'll make a system for the S63. I just got my JB4 and BCM in the mail today, I've kept Halim in the loop so the plan is to do what many of the S63TU did which is run the JB4 as my tuner, datalogger and meth controller and keep Halim's tune as a back end flash.

I don't remember what the requirements are to run stage 2 vs stage 1, but if possible, I'd jump to stage 2 right away. I did it due to a CEL for catless downpipes but even then the power difference was night and day.

Thank you, sir...it's been a rough balance and taken longer than I'd planned since I just bought a house last November, the GF has a 535xiT that she wants to tweak after having driven mine and 3 other cars that want my attention as well lol. At the end of the day this still has to be daily drivable for me as I drive it to work, I'll be taking it to Bimmerfest again this year, etc so I won't be going so crazy as making it E85, race fuel, etc only.

[Revnato]

Originally Posted by m5james

Yes, headers bolt right up to the block but the stock X5M turbos don't bolt up directly to the headers as the flanges are different. You can either get S63TU turbos as well (it's my understanding they're no different and they're exactly the same internally after Pure reworks them) or have your S63 turbo flanges machined to mate up with the S63TU headers. I'm just going the easier route and buying a set of S63TU turbos that'll have the Pure treatment.

Currently I'm running a Halim/HCP Tuning stage 2 tune, custom intake, gutted factory downpipes. I've got a set of aftermarket catless downpipes that are a full 3" and then I plan on copying the S63TU by adding an x-pipe and then MSR gave me some advice to use Vibrant resonators to duplicate their system since it's highly unlikely he'll make a system for the S63. I just got my JB4 and BCM in the mail today, I've kept Halim in the loop so the plan is to do what many of the S63TU did which is run the JB4 as my tuner, datalogger and meth controller and keep Halim's tune as a back end flash.

I don't remember what the requirements are to run stage 2 vs stage 1, but if possible, I'd jump to stage 2 right away. I did it due to a CEL for catless downpipes but even then the power difference was night and day.

Thank you, sir...it's been a rough balance and taken longer than I'd planned since I just bought a house last November, the GF has a 535xiT that she wants to tweak after having driven mine and 3 other cars that want my attention as well lol. At the end of the day this still has to be daily drivable for me as I drive it to work, I'll be taking it to Bimmerfest again this year, etc so I won't be going so crazy as making it E85, race fuel, etc only.

Wow I applaud you sir! You are really sailing through some uncharted waters with these new S63tu headers and turbo upgrades you're doing. I can't wait to hear how its running once you get it all bolted and tuned up!

I can't believe the tu headers bolt right up that's great to know! My car is currently awaiting a valve seal job so I'm thinking about upgrading the headers at the same time now that you've proved its a direct fit. My worry is with machining the stock S63 turbos to mate with the tu headers like you mentioned. Not sure who I could get to do that for me. I would love to upgrade the turbos as well but the valve job in itself is costing a pretty penny so the turbos will mostly likely have to wait. However I'm still really curios what gains could be had by upgrading to tu headers alone and machining the stock turbos to fit.

That JB4 by those Burgertuning guys is awesome. I've been following them for a while and they do some pretty awesome stuff with that fuel mapping and tuning. Just recently saw a post on their instagram of a JB4 + tuned e70 X5M putting down ridiculous numbers at the track. Really impressive stuff.

Your car is going to be absolutely nuts. I envy you very much. Hahaha

[SyL3nTFoRcE]

i just got the engine malfunction power reduced with a check engine light which is throwing a p1030 code. Unfortunately my scanner doesnt recognize the code. Also got a 2E0F valvetronic system: deactivated , adjustment fault too frequent. also a 2DCE valvetronic system: no adjustment possible. I brought it to the warranty shop from the dealer i bought it from and they changed the valvetronic servomotor and the sensors with it. The car shut off on me at idle twice in the past week. After the car shuts off i turn it on and it chokes and i wait 1 minute and it starts up with engine malfunction. Also have a check engine light to and sometimes the engine malfunction comes on. I do have the golf tee mod but the hose is plugged up and this engine malfunction showed up 3 days after.

Any help would be appreciated before i bring it to the mechanic again.

[m5james]

Originally Posted by Revnato

Wow I applaud you sir! You are really sailing through some uncharted waters with these new S63tu headers and turbo upgrades you're doing. I can't wait to hear how its running once you get it all bolted and tuned up!

I can't believe the tu headers bolt right up that's great to know! My car is currently awaiting a valve seal job so I'm thinking about upgrading the headers at the same time now that you've proved its a direct fit. My worry is with machining the stock S63 turbos to mate with the tu headers like you mentioned. Not sure who I could get to do that for me. I would love to upgrade the turbos as well but the valve job in itself is costing a pretty penny so the turbos will mostly likely have to wait. However I'm still really curios what gains could be had by upgrading to tu headers alone and machining the stock turbos to fit.

That JB4 by those Burgertuning guys is awesome. I've been following them for a while and they do some pretty awesome stuff with that fuel mapping and tuning. Just recently saw a post on their instagram of a JB4 + tuned e70 X5M putting down ridiculous numbers at the track. Really impressive stuff.

Your car is going to be absolutely nuts. I envy you very much. Hahaha

Thank you...so far I only know of two people who've done the S63TU headers swap, a company in Dubai (who charged an arm and a leg and the thread went silent once I pointed out they were doing the same thing Dinan used to do in the 90's with simply re-part numbering stock BMW parts) and a guy from Sweden...typical since those guys ALWAYS do the crazy swaps and builds over there. The Sweden guy is also the one who showed me pics of how to machine the S63 turbos to fit the S63TU headers. I just happen to luck out and find a set of gently used Pure's since the M5 guys are working their way towards stage 3

Yeah, I've seen valve job pricing range from $2500-$5000 I don't expect the headers to provide a ton of extra power, but I figure it's like catless downpipes...frees up some horsepower and the power comes on quicker with the smoother flow. I'm having the headers and a second set of catless downpipes ceramic coated as we speak since it's getting to be a known fact that catless downpipes can cause overheating issues on the back two cylinders. To be on the safe side, I'll also be wrapping the downpipes after they're coated.

I remember bugging Terry for the longest time about JB4 for the S63, but the market wasn't there he said. It wasn't until someone brought in an X6M and he figured out the N63 and S63 basically share the same ECU and the floodgates opened. I'd have bought it sooner but I've been holding out since I still have an $1100 Aquamist setup sitting BNIB that I wanted to sell first, but I couldn't wait anymore. I'll try to install the JB4 this weekend but the headers and downpipes are still going to wait until Spring.

Thanks again...I fear I'm going to be sending follow up email to transmission builders very soon since that's going to be the next weak point in my build. $1k here, $5k there, $3k here...it never ends lol I still do it because I LOVE sleepers and walking unsuspecting cars...totally makes it worth it for me when I get to and out the window as I'm pulling away.

[m5james]

Originally Posted by SyL3nTFoRcE

i just got the engine malfunction power reduced with a check engine light which is throwing a p1030 code. Unfortunately my scanner doesnt recognize the code. Also got a 2E0F valvetronic system: deactivated , adjustment fault too frequent. also a 2DCE valvetronic system: no adjustment possible. I brought it to the warranty shop from the dealer i bought it from and they changed the valvetronic servomotor and the sensors with it. The car shut off on me at idle twice in the past week. After the car shuts off i turn it on and it chokes and i wait 1 minute and it starts up with engine malfunction. Also have a check engine light to and sometimes the engine malfunction comes on. I do have the golf tee mod but the hose is plugged up and this engine malfunction showed up 3 days after.

Any help would be appreciated before i bring it to the mechanic again.

Remove the T from the vacuum line that feeds to the exhaust valves and see if that fixes your issue. That T feeds a line that goes to the passenger side fender, which then runs the entire length of the car to the mufflers...that's a HUGE amount of opportunity for a vacuum leak.

http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=61

What scanner are you using? I've got a BMW laptop myself with apps such as Rheingold, INPA, etc but for quick stuff I use a simple $5 eBay Bluetooth OBDII dongle and the Android app Carista for quick scanning, resetting and even light coding for options such as windows up via remote, European dual flash hazards, DVD in Motion, etc.

A generic Google search for "BMW P1030" mentions it being a Valvetronic issue being slow to react. Are you running too thick of an oil? I personally run Castrol Edge 0w40 and do 10k intervals. How many miles on the truck? This is your personal choice, but you can run a quart of transmission fluid (any kind) through your engine for a few hundred miles before an oil change (the detergents act as an engine cleaner) so long as you drive it like a baby and/or something like Seafoam in your oil and then switch to a lighter weight oil if you're running something thicker than 0w40.

[Revnato]

Originally Posted by m5james

Thank you...so far I only know of two people who've done the S63TU headers swap, a company in Dubai (who charged an arm and a leg and the thread went silent once I pointed out they were doing the same thing Dinan used to do in the 90's with simply re-part numbering stock BMW parts) and a guy from Sweden...typical since those guys ALWAYS do the crazy swaps and builds over there. The Sweden guy is also the one who showed me pics of how to machine the S63 turbos to fit the S63TU headers. I just happen to luck out and find a set of gently used Pure's since the M5 guys are working their way towards stage 3

Yeah, I've seen valve job pricing range from $2500-$5000 I don't expect the headers to provide a ton of extra power, but I figure it's like catless downpipes...frees up some horsepower and the power comes on quicker with the smoother flow. I'm having the headers and a second set of catless downpipes ceramic coated as we speak since it's getting to be a known fact that catless downpipes can cause overheating issues on the back two cylinders. To be on the safe side, I'll also be wrapping the downpipes after they're coated.

I remember bugging Terry for the longest time about JB4 for the S63, but the market wasn't there he said. It wasn't until someone brought in an X6M and he figured out the N63 and S63 basically share the same ECU and the floodgates opened. I'd have bought it sooner but I've been holding out since I still have an $1100 Aquamist setup sitting BNIB that I wanted to sell first, but I couldn't wait anymore. I'll try to install the JB4 this weekend but the headers and downpipes are still going to wait until Spring.

Thanks again...I fear I'm going to be sending follow up email to transmission builders very soon since that's going to be the next weak point in my build. $1k here, $5k there, $3k here...it never ends lol I still do it because I LOVE sleepers and walking unsuspecting cars...totally makes it worth it for me when I get to and out the window as I'm pulling away.

I can't wait to hear about the finished product. Your car is going to be putting down ridiculous numbers. It'll be the fastest e70 X5M by A LOT

I decided to hold off on the headers for now. Since my mechanic is going to pull the engine for a full valve job (4 way valve job on heads, head gasket, head studs, decked heads, timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket, valve seals) I asked him to replace all of the vacuum lines, timing chains, and tensioners as well. I might ask him to do a refresh of the entire cooling system before summer time as well, but he's going to wait until he gets the engine out to let me know if its worth doing. All I can say is my car better run like damn racehorse when its done because I'm spending an arse load on basically an engine rebuild. At least the car should be good to go well over 100k miles and its only got 57K on it now

Really curious what your solution to the transmission is going to be. I wonder how well the trans will hold that ridiculous amount of torque you're going to have. I know theres a company named SSP Performance who makes all the built transmission and clutch kits for the DCT transmissions. I'm not sure they make anything for our e70 transmissions though.

You should definitely start a new thread once your parts arrive. I would love to follow your engine build as I'm sure many others would too. All i can say is I envy you so much lol

[Dawgz]

I had the same code (310B) pop up.

The previous owner deleted the muffler, so today I went ahead and removed the T which M5James mentions in his post. I ordered 4mm HPS black silicon (20feet of it) to replace all the vacuum lines that I can. I noticed that the stock lines that go to the driver side canister is very easy to pull off.

Going to run the car a little more to see if this has resolved the issue. I was thinking it was diverter valves but both look good ..no rips. If it's not the vacuum lines then ill look at this being a wastegate issue.

[Dawgz]

Got the new silicon vacuum lines, replaced all the easy ones to get to.

Ran the car a few times...I don't get the code any more...


Whew!