X5m jack points

[coolmayank]

I was looking for the exact jack points for a 2010 x5m to lift the entire vehicle on jack stands . Has anyone done it before . Any pictures highlighting the jack points will be very helpful . On front I see a metal part, which may be part of subframe so it may be safe to jack from their . It’s hard to find the same for the rear . What’s the precaution needed to ensure I am not damaging anything


https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...neral/1M86TlIK

[jandref321]

Yeah that PDF shows the best spots. The center front point sticks out from the plastic tray. The rear jacking point I’ve never dont on the M but have done on my e46 M3 and wife’s E70. Just make sure you lift on the meat of the differential and not the back cover like it says in the PDF. I usually lift with a block of wood protecting from metal to metal contact. I’ve used a bottle jack for this also, which isnt recommended in the PDF. Depending on the height of the jack and if your vehicle is lowered you may have to set it on jack stands then put a big 12” x 12” piece of wood under your jack to lift it higher and get the wheels off the ground...if that makes any sense. Also...if you don’t have bmw jack stands or 4 of the jack stand adapters then you might end up braking the jack pads. Be safe! Keep the jacks in place in front and rear center points just in case, throw the wheels under also for redundancy if/when necessary. I’ll post some pics when I get the chance

[Qsilver7]

Ditto the reply above & the illustration from the TIS. The rear of the vehicle can be lifted from below the rear diff (be careful not to place the jack on the COVER of the rear diff).

You may also want to be prepaired and have at least one wheel chock because on some vehicles, when you lift the rear of the vehicle, there's nothing to prevent the vehicle from moving forward (like a wheel barrow) because the front axle doesn't have a parking brake or the transmission pawl to prevent it from moving.

[coolmayank]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Ditto the reply above & the illustration from the TIS. The rear of the vehicle can be lifted from below the rear diff (be careful not to place the jack on the COVER of the rear diff).

You may also want to be prepaired and have at least one wheel chock because on some vehicles, when you lift the rear of the vehicle, there's nothing to prevent the vehicle from moving forward (like a wheel barrow) because the front axle doesn't have a parking brake or the transmission pawl to prevent it from moving.

Thanks for chiming in , I read the important points you highlighted I. The TIS, I was keen to see the actual pic of the part for a x5 to be lifted , do you drive a x5. Anyone else would like to update the thread with the real pics. That will be a useful information

[jandref321]

Yep, So...If you need all four off the ground at the same time, which isn't recommended without a lift, then you need to lift the front first. Put blocks behind the rear tires and lift at the center jacking point. When you reach your max lift the throw the jack stands under the front side jacking points. and lower the jack. If you only have one jack then pull it out for use in the rear. If you have two then leave that jack in place with most of the weight/pressure on the jack stands.
Center Jacking Point:


If you only had the one jack then move the blocks to the front of the car where the tires would be touching the ground, just in case the vehicle pivots too much on the jack stands when lifting the rear and you have the wheelbarrow effect described above. Then you move to the rear and jack from the differential. The ///M diff is very different from standard diffs since it is a massive three part torque vectoring diff. The cooling fins are on the bottom instead of having a rear cover with cooling fins. I have not done this yet myself, but I would place a 2x4 across the fins perpendicular to the travel direction of the vehicle (parallel with the axle) and lift on the wood to distribute the weight across the fins. Then same deal with lifting to max and placing the jack stands underneath. Leave the jack in place if you can with most of the weight on the jack stands.
Rear Center Jacking Point:


You may have to go back and forth jacking up the car and adding a click to the jack stands to get all the tires off the ground depending on how high your jack lifts.

Alternately I have been successful on other vehicles jacking up the rear side jacking point, which lifts the front enough to get a jack stand under the front side jacking point on the same side. then do the same for the other side of the vehicle. Then use the diff to jack up the rear. The problem with this is that the vehicle teeters diagonally when lifting the second side...and it is just dangerous.

[philly42]

It's difficult to put most cars on jack stands because they are usually the same as the jacking points. Also most people don't have long jacks that can reach the diff and front jacking. (usually a problem on lowered cars)

My experience with other cars, I found that there are other areas where you can use for jacking or as a safety area. I'm not an expert and this is only based on my observation from other cars. The frame area where the the front and rear subframes are usually very strong areas that can support a jack or jack stand. Usually these areas are closer to the center of the car so they are not ideal.

After many years of dealing with the pain of putting the car on 4 jack stands, I ended up getting a lift.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by coolmayank

...I was keen to see the actual pic of the part for a x5 to be lifted , do you drive a x5. Anyone else would like to update the thread with the real pics. That will be a useful information

I drive an e53 X5...and you can see the location of the front jack pad in pic below...the e70 front jack pad is probably 90% in the same location/same design etc...just like the 4 side jack stand pads are in the same location and same design:

[coolmayank]

Originally Posted by jandref321

Yep, So...If you need all four off the ground at the same time, which isn't recommended without a lift, then you need to lift the front first. Put blocks behind the rear tires and lift at the center jacking point. When you reach your max lift the throw the jack stands under the front side jacking points. and lower the jack. If you only have one jack then pull it out for use in the rear. If you have two then leave that jack in place with most of the weight/pressure on the jack stands.
Center Jacking Point:


If you only had the one jack then move the blocks to the front of the car where the tires would be touching the ground, just in case the vehicle pivots too much on the jack stands when lifting the rear and you have the wheelbarrow effect described above. Then you move to the rear and jack from the differential. The ///M diff is very different from standard diffs since it is a massive three part torque vectoring diff. The cooling fins are on the bottom instead of having a rear cover with cooling fins. I have not done this yet myself, but I would place a 2x4 across the fins perpendicular to the travel direction of the vehicle (parallel with the axle) and lift on the wood to distribute the weight across the fins. Then same deal with lifting to max and placing the jack stands underneath. Leave the jack in place if you can with most of the weight on the jack stands.
Rear Center Jacking Point:


You may have to go back and forth jacking up the car and adding a click to the jack stands to get all the tires off the ground depending on how high your jack lifts.

Alternately I have been successful on other vehicles jacking up the rear side jacking point, which lifts the front enough to get a jack stand under the front side jacking point on the same side. then do the same for the other side of the vehicle. Then use the diff to jack up the rear. The problem with this is that the vehicle teeters diagonally when lifting the second side...and it is just dangerous.

Thanks much for detailed explanation and pics , I was curious to check the oil leaks and other components on the engine bay . I think I will be good with just by jacking the front . Thanks again

[coolmayank]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

I drive an e53 X5...and you can see the location of the front jack pad in pic below...the e70 front jack pad is probably 90% in the same location/same design etc...just like the 4 side jack stand pads are in the same location and same design:

Yes I have seen it’s very similar to E70. The challenge is to have the head of the jack small so it only touches the sub frame jacking points

[coolmayank]

Originally Posted by philly42

It's difficult to put most cars on jack stands because they are usually the same as the jacking points. Also most people don't have long jacks that can reach the diff and front jacking. (usually a problem on lowered cars)

My experience with other cars, I found that there are other areas where you can use for jacking or as a safety area. I'm not an expert and this is only based on my observation from other cars. The frame area where the the front and rear subframes are usually very strong areas that can support a jack or jack stand. Usually these areas are closer to the center of the car so they are not ideal.

After many years of dealing with the pain of putting the car on 4 jack stands, I ended up getting a lift.

It’s great that you could get a lift , I don’t have this option as I do t have a garage . I did see the jack plus stand combination which seems like a good idea

Powerbuilt 640912 All-In-One 3-Ton Bottle Jack with Jack Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ULZGFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0Se4zbGG59JVS

[jandref321]

Originally Posted by coolmayank

It’s great that you could get a lift , I don’t have this option as I do t have a garage . I did see the jack plus stand combination which seems like a good idea

Powerbuilt 640912 All-In-One 3-Ton Bottle Jack with Jack Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ULZGFU..._0Se4zbGG59JVS

It's a cool idea, but it sits 12.5" tall fully lowered, I think from the specs anyway. Regardless, I think our clearance at the front jack pad is around 6.5" or 7". I've seen ones that go under either side of your tire and jack up from the tire, then you throw the jack stands underneath...you'd have to have four of them and four people to jack at the same time though...it would be more expensive than a lift too.

Step 1: Buy house with a garage that has over 11.5' overhead clearance.

Step2: Buy lift if you're not broke.

[jandref321]

Hey OP, I swapped out my brake lines and lifted all four corners so I took pictures and did a short write up…

STEP 1: LIFT THE FRONT
a) put on the parking brake
b) block the back wheels

c) prepare jack stands for use

d) loosen lug bolts

e) jack up the front of the car using center jack point until you can’t lift anymore

f) place jacks under side lift points

g) lower vehicle onto jack stands

h) compress jack and place wood under the jack

i) jack up the front of the car again using center jack point until tires lift off the ground
j) lock the jack stands into position and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands; leave jack in place if you can for safety.
k) remove wheels (THIS PREVENTS THE CAR ROLLING FORWARD WHEN LIFTING REAR)
l) place wheels under the vehicle for safety (BEND A RIM vs LOSE YOUR LIFE)


STEP 2: LIFT REAR
a) prepare jack stands for use

b) place block of wood and jack under rear differential
c) loosen lug bolts

d) lift vehicle until wheels leave the ground
e) place jack stands under the side lifting points

f) lower vehicle onto jack stands
g) remove wheels
h) place wheels under car for safety (if they will fit)

[coolmayank]

Originally Posted by jandref321

Hey OP, I swapped out my brake lines and lifted all four corners so I took pictures and did a short write up…

STEP 1: LIFT THE FRONT
a) put on the parking brake
b) block the back wheels

c) prepare jack stands for use

d) loosen lug bolts

e) jack up the front of the car using center jack point until you can’t lift anymore

f) place jacks under side lift points

g) lower vehicle onto jack stands

h) compress jack and place wood under the jack

i) jack up the front of the car again using center jack point until tires lift off the ground
j) lock the jack stands into position and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands; leave jack in place if you can for safety.
k) remove wheels (THIS PREVENTS THE CAR ROLLING FORWARD WHEN LIFTING REAR)
l) place wheels under the vehicle for safety (BEND A RIM vs LOSE YOUR LIFE)


STEP 2: LIFT REAR
a) prepare jack stands for use

b) place block of wood and jack under rear differential
c) loosen lug bolts

d) lift vehicle until wheels leave the ground
e) place jack stands under the side lifting points

f) lower vehicle onto jack stands
g) remove wheels
h) place wheels under car for safety (if they will fit)

This information is certainly useful for someone who is planning to jack the car..
I end up selling my jack as i wasn’t inclined to work on the car. The problem with the front jacking point was that the part big the jack was touching the area and i was afraid of damaging anything. The rear looked even more fragile.. I think the BMWs jack lift points are the best places to lift the vechicle. They expect people to have lifts to work on these vehicle. Thanks again for the write up and pics. The wheels are looking awesome. Have you got these polished? Now I am planning to work on removing the swirl marks . Please check my other threads if that topic is of your interest

[Alex Ander]

For how crazy and a big No No that it may sound... on my e70 2013 with running boards, you can actually lift it from the bottom where the running board is attached by leaning completely flat and flush with the body work underneath it. The running board bottom is completely flat and directly in contact with the body work which is also flat, therefore if you use a thick rubber puck or a rubber block, the running board bottom, will not flex, crack or get damaged.

Today I went to rotate the tires, and the shop had a lift that could not reach the 4 jack points.The lifting pad was a few inches shorter than the distance between the plastic jack points. So the mechanic placed 4 thick rubber blocks (2 each sides) between the lifting pad and the bottom of the car along the running boards and it lifted without damaging anything.

I assume if your car has running boards that lay flat on the body work, using a floor jack with a thick and large rubber puck and place it at the center of the bottom part of the running board, you can lift the car without damaging anything. Once the car is up, you put 2 jacks stands on the jack points.

[conandrum]

First post here. I am trying to lift my X6 XDrive 35D from the rear center point as advised in this thread. I found the axle and in the middle there is the rear differential.


Most people said that I should use some 2x4 under the grills and away from the joint... if I understood correctly. So I tried it like this:

As the car was lifting up 1-2cm I could hear some cracking so I shit my pants and reversed back down. The cracking ofcourse could be entirely normal.

It seems to me that the grills are not the actual dead center between the 2 rear axles. The center seems to be the actual joint.


So what do you think? Should I lift from under the joints or from under the grills as shown in the next 2 photos?



Anybody who has actually done this before please let me know.

[argento]

I’m pretty sure the cracking was your piece of wood. I’ve done this many times and if I grab the wrong block of wood I’ll hear cracking and realize I didn’t grab my piece of hardwood I normally use.

I’m not a fan of lifting from the diff, but it’s really the only place and I used the diff on my E46 all the time.

Check your wood block for craccking.

[conandrum]

You are right argento. The cracking was from my cheap wood. Nonetheless, I still was holding my breath when the car was going up, thinking what if the wood just crumbles suddenly and everything goes horribly wrong - then the alarm started going off LOL. Thankfully nothing bad happened. It went up uneventfully and I placed my jacks and lowered it onto them.

BTW, I changed my lift point. Since I received no reply up to the time I decided to go for it, I looked again carefully at the photos in this thread (jandref321 https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...9&postcount=12). So I placed my wood lengthwise (parallel to the axle), and its midpoint between the joint and the first fin. That's where my jack was pushing. (In my previous post I had the long side of my wood forming a cross with the axle - not necessarily wrong, but I thought to replicate the photo I saw in a previous post)