Clogged DPF?

[bluefish7]

So I've got like 76g of soot and 44g of ash, DPF warnings for 480A and 481A of course. My question is whether this "exhaust pressure upstream particulate" reading of zero (all day long) is a result of the DFP being fully clogged or a cause of the regen not starting? I have requested regen from Carly and gone one hour at 80mph to get the readings in the pic so it should regen or at least try? Thanks for any input, waiting on parts for delete fyi.

[dang2407]

You do need to make sure all relevant fault codes are deleted and you do need to keep an eye on the values and states while driving. Check out my thread on the Xoutpost forum

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...dpf-regen.html

[bluefish7]

Thanks, yes I cleared as much as Carly will clear everything, did it a few times for the multiple drives I did where the exhaust temps stayed up and coolant was 135-140 the whole time. The 480 and 481 codes come back fast. Are you saying Bimmercode worked?

[dang2407]

Yes. I had ISTA+ but I couldn't get a good regen with that. I ordered Carly which took a few days to arrive and in the meantime I tried BimmerTool which reportedly did clear-faults in the background, so I thought it is ideally suited for me. It worked, but I did have to re-apply the Fodced Regen a couple times. Possibly I have a sensor which sends duff values every now and then which causes the DDE to abort...

But the thing with BimmerTool is that you have a dedicated page of measured values that you can see immediately what is happening. Not tried Carly for DPF regen yet...

[dang2407]

Just converted to real values.... ;-)
140°F is only 60°C, so that could be your problem....

[bluefish7]

Yeah i didn't even think about that, used to some engines running closer to that temp and the Carly gauge shows the red zone around 140 but I guess it should be closer to 190

[bluefish7]

So I was watching the highway temperature sit around 140, but then after I got home and just sat watching the idle temperature, it slowly got up to about 206 F. Any thoughts? Bad water pump and tstat likely

[RL18]

Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com

So I was watching the highway temperature sit around 140, but then after I got home and just sat watching the idle temperature, it slowly got up to about 206 F. Any thoughts? Bad water pump and tstat likely

Replace the thermostat and water pump. Get 4 new bolts for water pump too. Everything you need can be found on FCP euro.

Also if you plan on deleting down the road... buy a egr race pipe kit and fully delete the egr and leave the egr valve plugged in and secured to the side. You have to remove the cooler anyways. You'll get an engine light, but no limp from doing this. Then also change both belts (get belt removal tool), Harmonic dampener (should come with removal tools), and upgrade to clutched pulley.

It's a lot to do up front and may turn into a fully day of repairs but you will get a lot of preventative maintenance done with and your x5d will be very happy

[bluefish7]

So with my 480A and 481A codes that don't seem to be "clearable" with Carly, if I can get my water pump and thermostat replaced, do you think I would be able to start a regen and avoid pulling the DPF? Speculative I know, but its running cold and not sure how long that has been happening, likely kept regens from happening without my knowledge and now I'm trying to determine the best course of action. Thanks

Originally Posted by RL18

Replace the thermostat and water pump. Get 4 new bolts for water pump too. Everything you need can be found on FCP euro.

Also if you plan on deleting down the road... buy a egr race pipe kit and fully delete the egr and leave the egr valve plugged in and secured to the side. You have to remove the cooler anyways. You'll get an engine light, but no limp from doing this. Then also change both belts (get belt removal tool), Harmonic dampener (should come with removal tools), and upgrade to clutched pulley.

It's a lot to do up front and may turn into a fully day of repairs but you will get a lot of preventative maintenance done with and your x5d will be very happy

[RL18]

Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com

So with my 480A and 481A codes that don't seem to be "clearable" with Carly, if I can get my water pump and thermostat replaced, do you think I would be able to start a regen and avoid pulling the DPF? Speculative I know, but its running cold and not sure how long that has been happening, likely kept regens from happening without my knowledge and now I'm trying to determine the best course of action. Thanks

If everything else is operating correctly then yes you should have no issue going into regen once you do replace those two thing. But I would still at the very least fully delete the egr cooler with an egr race pipe kit since you have to fully remove the egr cooler anyways.

I have been running like this for 20k and my x5d still regens without issue. I still highly recommend doing the other things while your in there, especially if your harmonic dampener is still the factory HD

[bluefish7]

How to tell if its the factory HD? I have a downpipe and mid pipe being sent so was going to do DPF full delete (SCR and EGR too), probably wait to do water pump and stat then. Best course of action?

Originally Posted by RL18

If everything else is operating correctly then yes you should have no issue going into regen once you do replace those two thing. But I would still at the very least fully delete the egr cooler with an egr race pipe kit since you have to fully remove the egr cooler anyways.

I have been running like this for 20k and my x5d still regens without issue. I still highly recommend doing the other things while your in there, especially if your harmonic dampener is still the factory HD

[RL18]

Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com

How to tell if its the factory HD? I have a downpipe and mid pipe being sent so was going to do DPF full delete (SCR and EGR too), probably wait to do water pump and stat then. Best course of action?

Look for cracking on the HD itself. If it's is you're probably on borrowed time. And yes

[Hatchet87]

I had a bad thermostat which led to the DPF clogging and giving the warning. I am still yet to understand these not having the coolant temp gauge as would have noticed much sooner it was not getting up to correct temp, so not even sure how long it was bad for!

Its my wife's car and the only outward sign was the low MPG she was getting, which she did not mention to me After I drove it I suspected something was not right and got the temp up on the hidden menu, and even after a long drive on the motorway (highway) it would struggle to get over 70c!

[dang2407]

I know that they have to make them stupid-people proof.... as with all new things these days, you get more features and less functionality.

Note, there are 2 types of regen - passive and active.

For passive regen, the exhaust temp needs to be 280-350°C and the soot will automatically oxidise away. A mobile App to monitor the temps and Soot mass is essential for this... otherwise you are blind and guessing what is or isn't happening. Look around and don't get the expensive one everybody talks about...

For Active Regen, the car needs no DDE errors, water temp above 65°C (it says 75°C in the literature, but I know on mine a forced regen happens from 65°C) and exhaust temp above 240°C. Again, you need an App to check everything is happening.

Active Regen is generated through one of 3 ways:
1) A request via an external tool (Forced Regen).
2) Triggered by the DDE as the Soot Mass rises above approx 50grams (60grams is the max which triggers the errors)
3) Periodic activation by the ECU every 500-600 miles based on driving profile.

In Active Regen, the ECU boosts the exhaust temp to 500-600°C so that the soot is burnt off and converted to Ash.


If you have the Clogged DPF error on your dash, you will also have the 480A/481A errors in your DDE so Forced Regen won't work. Your choice is to either:
i) burn off the soot in the Passive Regen mode, i.e. on a longish drive. In actual fact, satisfying the requirements of exhaust temps is not that difficult, but I say again get the App to make sure the Soot Mass is diminishing. When the mass reduces below a certain level, the 481A and 480A errors will change state to inactive, allowing Active Regen to take place.
ii) Request a Forced Regen. Note firstly that the high soot mass may cause a fire or other thermal issues, and secondly you do need the afore-mentioned mobile App to continually send clear-error messages to the ECU.

[bluefish7]

Thanks I have the iCarly app for forcing regens, but need to get my thermostat and water pump changed first I guess. Is it easier to do tstat and water pump from the top or from underneath?

Originally Posted by dang2407

I know that they have to make them stupid-people proof.... as with all new things these days, you get more features and less functionality.

Note, there are 2 types of regen - passive and active.

For passive regen, the exhaust temp needs to be 280-350°C and the soot will automatically oxidise away. A mobile App to monitor the temps and Soot mass is essential for this... otherwise you are blind and guessing what is or isn't happening. Look around and don't get the expensive one everybody talks about...

For Active Regen, the car needs no DDE errors, water temp above 65°C (it says 75°C in the literature, but I know on mine a forced regen happens from 65°C) and exhaust temp above 240°C. Again, you need an App to check everything is happening.

Active Regen is generated through one of 3 ways:
1) A request via an external tool (Forced Regen).
2) Triggered by the DDE as the Soot Mass rises above approx 50grams (60grams is the max which triggers the errors)
3) Periodic activation by the ECU every 500-600 miles based on driving profile.

In Active Regen, the ECU boosts the exhaust temp to 500-600°C so that the soot is burnt off and converted to Ash.


If you have the Clogged DPF error on your dash, you will also have the 480A/481A errors in your DDE so Forced Regen won't work. Your choice is to either:
i) burn off the soot in the Passive Regen mode, i.e. on a longish drive. In actual fact, satisfying the requirements of exhaust temps is not that difficult, but I say again get the App to make sure the Soot Mass is diminishing. When the mass reduces below a certain level, the 481A and 480A errors will change state to inactive, allowing Active Regen to take place.
ii) Request a Forced Regen. Note firstly that the high soot mass may cause a fire or other thermal issues, and secondly you do need the afore-mentioned mobile App to continually send clear-error messages to the ECU.

[Spyro235]

Can do both from the top with relative ease. The EGR is coming off to get to them anyway, so you might as well do a race pipe at that point.

I buy dpf's if you're looking to sell yours when the time comes!

My deleted and tuend X5 is at 282k miles and runs wonderfully.

[bluefish7]

So is the race pipe just a plug n play if I don't do any tune right now? I imagine not. I'm just doing coolant and tstat now to see if I can push the DPF further down the line.

Originally Posted by Spyro235

Can do both from the top with relative ease. The EGR is coming off to get to them anyway, so you might as well do a race pipe at that point.

I buy dpf's if you're looking to sell yours when the time comes!

My deleted and tuend X5 is at 282k miles and runs wonderfully.

[bluefish7]

Update, changed tstat and water pump so now it will hold 190F on the highway but Carly app has requested 7 or 8 regens and still it is not doing them. Codes 480A and 481A are still there and I can clear but guessing they're stored in the background enough for the car not to try and regen. Against my better judgement I put the EGR back on after doing the tstat and WP, have only driven about 40 miles on the highway at 80 mph. Any recommendations to try and get a regen to happen before I take to shop and get the DPF off?

I also had an exhaust backpressure signal code 004D00 and DPF pressure signal code 004BF4 and a turbo boost pressure control code 004530. I assumed those were from having the car disconnected from power for a month. These are gone now only 480 codes remain.

Thanks for any help. I've heard that there is a trick by way of cutting a hose to fool the differential pressure readings to get a regen to happen?

[dang2407]

The 480x codes need to be deleted. You get 10 mins from when they are deleted to kick off a regen. Bimmertool resends the 'clear errors' command repeatedly.... your tool is lacking... and expensive...

[bluefish7]

Bimmertool is only Android or no? And from what I'm understanding you're saying it can repeatedly send clear error codes that Carly cannot?

Originally Posted by dang2407

The 480x codes need to be deleted. You get 10 mins from when they are deleted to kick off a regen. Bimmertool resends the 'clear errors' command repeatedly.... your tool is lacking... and expensive...

[dang2407]

I have both but didn't use Carly for DPF work as it has limited measured values on display, for a start. From what you say, it sounds like it doesn't send clear-error repeatedly...
The key to all this is to be able to monitor all parameters and measurements while driving, e.g. TexhBeforeDPF, TWater, RegenActive, ErrorCodes etc.