2013 X6M Performance Delivery last Thursday!

[evanevery]

What a Beast!

I took delivery of my long awaited 2013 X6M at the Performance Delivery Center last Thursday. (YES - The side view cameras are installed depite NOT being listed on the web site build/status/progress page). I just got back home after driving the 900 miles back. It was a long, but somewhat interesting, drive as I programmed the GPS to avoid all highways. This would help keep the RPM changing constantly during the break in. Lots of small towns, stoplights, etc though!

The PDC delivery was amazing. They gave me an X6M to drive (2012 model) on the track. They broke the deliverees down into a couple of groups. I was one of 5 people who worked with Donnie Isley for the delivery. Donnie provided track instruction (and encouragement), one on one explanation and delivery of my vehicle, and also programmed a few waypoints on my GPS to ensure I had a most "interesting course" through the Blue Ridge mountains on my way to Knoxville for my stopover. (Thanks Donnie!)

All I can say is that I'm so glad I did the PCD. To be able to take a matching car out on the track, under expert instruction, and see what the car is actually capable of is truly an eye opening experience. I really enjoyed the twisty road course they for us to run as fast as we were capable. I pushed the car faster and faster through the turns, I eventually reached the speed where the tires (all 4) would start breaking loose. Its unbelievable how much side force the X6M will accept before it starts to break loose. Its even more impressive to see how flat , balanced, and predictable the car remains as it is pushed beyond that limit. I eventually reached the point where I could exit the corners with 555 Hp and all four wheels ripping and tearing at the exit of the corner and out into the transition to the next section of track. The X6M was eating up another M3 and a 6 Series that were also on the track - so much so that Donnie had to wave me through a shortcut (3X) so I could regain breathing room in front of the other cars. As I didn't have a guest with me for the delivery, I got to do all the track events twice!

To have someone hand you a $100,000 car and let you "drive it like you stole it" is astounding. You can read all about how the X6M seemingly defies the laws of physics but there is absolutely no way to comprehend how well the vehicle handles and performs unless you actually have the opportunity to push it to its (and your) limits.

Another benefit is that I had a couple of days, and 900 miles, to drive the car back and get most of the break-in period (3/4) completed before I arrived home. It also gave me a lot of time to become familiar with the vehicle systems (Nav, Entertainment, etc)

I absolutely can not recommend strongly enough, that if you are buying one of these cars, do the PDC delivery! No matter how far you live from Greenvile, SC - just make it a trip, and start bonding with your vehicle.

It also became apparent why the folks at the PDC knew more about the delivery status (Monroney Hold) than anyone else at BMWNA, Customer Service, or the Dealer. I had an customer service engineer sit through my delivery to take notes on the delivery process and how the cars features were presented to the customer. He, and the PDC staff, noted that while the PDC used to work directly for BMWNA (in Ohio), they were now part of the Production (factory) group building the cars (across the street). Although it was not specifically addressed, I'm quite certain this is why the PDC staff knew about the Monroney hold and could get real time status, while everyone else at BMW seemed absolutely clueless. Another good reason to do the PCD, as they will be able to follow the status of your X3/X5/X6 vehicle much more closely...

Gotta go now... I have 900 miles of bugs to be washing!

[doug_999]

Congrats! Where are the pictures?

For the others...
Be aware that the PDC loses a bit of luster for X5/X6 owners if you are not picking up a M product. They don't have regular X5s/X6s to drive except for the off road part (did you do that?). So you end up driving an X5M/X6M and then hoping in your plebeian 35/50 and driving the trip back wondering where all the power went.

Also, most PDC employees actually work for a contractor out in NJ (forget the name). People like Donnie are contractors as well.

Last but not least, next time you do PDC (or anyone does), go a bit out of your way and check out the Tail of the Dragon. Amazing.
http://www.tailofthedragon.com/

[Poleposition]

Congrats. I did PCD on my M3. Felt the same. Enjoy your M.

[evanevery]

Yes, I did the off road section in an X5.

...and Luca tells me the break-in is 3000 miles. The 1300 I found in online research must be for non-M vehicles. I better do some more reading...

Oh well, at least I've got already 900 miles out of the way...

[doug_999]

Your car was broken in in the first 20 miles

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Drive it hard

PS - per BMW, break- in is 1,200 miles.
http://cache.bmwusa.com/pdf_49939fd1...0-304f00354655

edit - they say from 1,200 miles on you can gradually increase. The supplemental M manual says that ends officially at 3,000 miles. Which is kind of funny. Do you add 100 RPM every so often?
http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/attac...6&d=1261824778

[wang490]

cong mn! show ur pics ! show off ur M!

[evanevery]

According to the "M" supplementary manual, it is 1200 miles at the first break in point and then 3000 for the final. I don't care what any other self-proclaimed "Internet Experts" have to say - I'm going by the manual - you can bet the engineers at BMW know whats best for our cars...

I'll take some photos tomorrow (after the sun comes back up)...

I'll try to remember to get some shots of the LED headlights tonight as well...

[Biff Grissel]

congrats and nice write up, sounds like u had fun!...btw theese trucks are track ready right out of the box...the "break in period" is some what over analized imo, but if u do choose to abide by the break in instructions i believe u said u chose to take the route that would make the vehicle fluctuate rpm as much as possible?...for an engine break in i believe u want to keep a constant rpm...for example u would want to cruise the freeway home with ur cc set @ 65 keeping at a constant 2500ish rpm for optimal break in, not vice versa...please correct me if im wrong. anyway congrats on the new purchase,im sure u will love it.

[evanevery]

Everything I have every read indicates AVOIDING a constant RPM. You want to vary the RPM's during the break in to help seat the rings properly and avoid using the Cruise Control. Engine breaking (decelerating) and occasional burst of throttle (not full WOT) are recommended.

I don't know where you got that info, but it is exactly the OPPOSITE of how a break in should be performed. The folks at the PDC confirmed my understanding of the process and also the selection of my return routing (No Highways)...

[bulldog_yyc]

dont forget the post break-in oil change!

[evanevery]

Here is a night photo of the LED headlights that folks have been requesting:

[evanevery]

Originally Posted by Biff Grissel

for an engine break in i believe u want to keep a constant rpm...for example u would want to cruise the freeway home with ur cc set @ 65 keeping at a constant 2500ish rpm for optimal break in, not vice versa...please correct me if im wrong. anyway congrats on the new purchase,im sure u will love it.

Just do a quick search on Engine Break-In and RPM. This is just the first link of many which I found that address the subject. You DO NOT want to maintain a constant RPM by setting your CC and cruising the highway for long distances during the break-in period...

Scuffed pistons due to extreme heat can normally be avoided by running the engine at various speeds during the break-in period, rather than maintaining a constant rpm. By gently increasing and decreasing engine rpm, heat buildup between the pistons and cylinder walls becomes more tolerable as oil is replenished to reduce friction and cool the mating surfaces. Be sure that the time of acceleration is not too long. Several short bursts are adequate to generate enough heat to assure proper piston ring seating while not harming the engine.

http://support.jpcycles.com/app/answ...ngine-break-in

[evanevery]

RE Post Break-In Oil Change:

I would have assumed an immediate oil change as well! However, BMW states that NO oil change needs to be performed after the 1200 mile initial break-in period. (I checked since my vehicle will be brought in on Monday - with almost that many miles - to have the hitch and illuminated doorsills installed). However, they did NOT specifically address whether an oil change will be required after the 3000 mile secondary break in period for the M Vehicles. I was told the car would simply notify me when the oil needed to be changed...

I also asked what kind of oil was being used for break-in. Normally/historically, synthetics were not used during the break-in because they were too slippery and did not encourage the kind of wear which is required to seat/fit the internals properly. In fact, I just had a complete top end overhaul on my airplane (Cirrus SR22 w/a Teledyne Continental twin turbo 5.5L engine) and we used straight mineral oil for the first 30 hours of operation and then switched over to a multigrade semi-synthetic oil for normal use. I have been told though that BMW uses synthetics for the break-in period so this apparently is not as important as it once was (at least to BMW)...

[Biff Grissel]

Originally Posted by evanevery

Just do a quick search on Engine Break-In and RPM. This is just the first link of many which I found that address the subject. You DO NOT want to maintain a constant RPM by setting your CC and cruising the highway for long distances during the break-in period...



http://support.jpcycles.com/app/answ...ngine-break-in

interesting seems like it would be the other way around. i changed the oil in my truck right around 3k miles anyway dispite bmw saying it doesnt need it till 15k miles. i always do with all my vehicles, and always will. thanks for the info.

[evanevery]

Originally Posted by Biff Grissel

interesting seems like it would be the other way around. i changed the oil in my truck right around 3k miles anyway dispite bmw saying it doesnt need it till 15k miles. i always do with all my vehicles, and always will. thanks for the info.

BMW provides all service on the vehicles at no additional charge for the first 50K and I'm going to let them do their stuff. This service is included in the purchase price of the vehicle. They are also extremely selective about what type and brand of lubricant goes into the car (see other threads on this board) and I do not want to do anything which might be perceived as inappropriate from a warranty perspective...

[doug_999]

Originally Posted by evanevery

According to the "M" supplementary manual, it is 1200 miles at the first break in point and then 3000 for the final. I don't care what any other self-proclaimed "Internet Experts" have to say - I'm going by the manual - you can bet the engineers at BMW know whats best for our cars...

I'll take some photos tomorrow (after the sun comes back up)...

I'll try to remember to get some shots of the LED headlights tonight as well...

Yea, those darn "internet experts" with empirical proof. What do they know!

Hey, believe what you want but just to make sure, you aware that all of the BMW "recommended" service intervals changed (read "went longer") after BMW made the switch to "included" service?

Wait, it gets better - in every country, EXCEPT the US, the trans fluid on the BMW 1M is changed at 1,200 miles - but not the US.

Do what you want - however, my M5 was broken in per those "internet experts" and strangely enough it was one of those few M5s that did not burn oil.

Oh and why is the X5M/X6M the only M car to not get an oil change at 1,200 miles? (hint, consider it - you will have to pay for it, but if you want to keep the car for a long time, it is not a bad idea).

My point is, there is/are a lot of reasons behind the BMW recommended rules/service intervals and not all are for YOUR benefit.

Originally Posted by evanevery

I also asked what kind of oil was being used for break-in. Normally/historically, synthetics were not used during the break-in because they were too slippery and did not encourage the kind of wear which is required to seat/fit the internals properly.

Because tolerances are so different now that the "old school" rules do not apply any more.

[bulldog_yyc]

Originally Posted by doug_999

Yea, those darn "internet experts" with empirical proof. What do they know!

Hey, believe what you want but just to make sure, you aware that all of the BMW "recommended" service intervals changed (read "went longer") after BMW made the switch to "included" service?

Wait, it gets better - in every country, EXCEPT the US, the trans fluid on the BMW 1M is changed at 1,200 miles - but not the US.

Do what you want - however, my M5 was broken in per those "internet experts" and strangely enough it was one of those few M5s that did not burn oil.

Oh and why is the X5M/X6M the only M car to not get an oil change at 1,200 miles? (hint, consider it - you will have to pay for it, but if you want to keep the car for a long time, it is not a bad idea).

My point is, there is/are a lot of reasons behind the BMW recommended rules/service intervals and not all are for YOUR benefit.



Because tolerances are so different now that the "old school" rules do not apply any more.

Agreed! I just paid the dealer to do a break in oil change.. makes me sleep better at night

[evanevery]

An empirical observation, by definition, is neither proof nor evidence, just promotes theory. Saying an engine runs "better", or "looser", by observation is not evidence and does not make anyone an expert. If we did a side-by-side, post break-in teardown, of multiple engines which were broken in both "by the book" and by an alternate method (driving hard) - and measured component clearances, did surface and metallurgical analysis, then we might have a start at some evidence. A collection of guys on the Internet who say their bike/car/truck/haywagon runs better because they ignored the manufacturers recommendations and ran it hard off the lot, is NOT evidence.

I've rebuilt a bunch of engines. This includes high performance automobile (www.blowngt.com), motorcycle, and airplane engines. Its typical NOT to use the same lubricant on a fresh or rebuilt engine that you would use for normal operation. Normally (at least historically), a straight mineral oil is used for break-in. (Synthetics or typical oils with anti-friction additives are generally too slippery to promote the desired wear required for proper break-in).

I did check with my service center, before I went to the PDC to pick up my car, as to when the first (post break-in) oil change was to be performed. I was anticipating that this was to be done immediately after break-in, which I originally thought was 1200 miles (it turns out the M break-in has three phases, the last of which is completed at 3000 miles). My thought was, bring the car in right after my drive back (900 mile drive + some local driving), get my hitch, doorsills installed, and do the first oil change all at the same service visit... One visit, properly timed, all done...

Anyway, they said there was no 1200/3000 mile oil change required. However, as you understand, I'm also accustomed to getting the break-in oil out of the car as soon as possible... So I needed to do some more research to find out what kind of oil was initially used in the engine...

I specifically asked what type of lubricant they were using for break in while I was at the PDC last week. Although no one could provide a specific answer, Donnie informed me they DID use a special break-in synthetic oil for his race/track car. So educated speculation was that they did NOT use mineral oil, but no one knew exactly what spec lubricant was being used.

The forums are full of debates on what type of aftermarket oil is acceptable for NORMAL operation of the vehicle. Lots of debate on that "simple" subject. However, the topic of break-in lubricants is a much more complicated topic yet. Many manufacturers explicitly state NOT to use a general purpose synthetic oil (i.e. Mobil-One) until post break-in or even later...

The fact of the matter is, I could not determine what type of lubricant was put into the engine at the factory. Its quite possible that they use a specific lubricant just for initial break-in. If I could be sure that I could do an "early" oil change, and use the exact same fluid, I would be all for it. However, if you dumped your oil early, and replaced it with a normal spec oil, and that was NOT what they put in the engine for break-in, then you have prematurely interrupted the normal break-in process. That would NOT be good. Say hello to glazed cylinder walls and bearing surfaces... Once a cylinder wall is glazed, the only effective method to remove the glazing is to break down the engine and re-home the bores. No gasoline or oil additives are going to repair that kind of a problem...

..and if you think a car manufacturer like BMW is skipping a single oil change to save money on a 100K car, then you don't give them much credit for understanding the value of the historical longevity of customer vehicles. I'm quite certain BMW is not going to skip a $50 oil change if it comes anywhere close to tarnishing the perceived engineering of their brand.

Regardless of what all the home grown "Internet Experts" have to say, I'm sticking with the manufacturers recommendations. After all - they seem to build "pretty good" cars...

[doug_999]

Originally Posted by evanevery

An empirical observation, by definition, is neither proof nor evidence, just promotes theory. Saying an engine runs "better", or "looser", by observation is not evidence and does not make anyone an expert. If we did a side-by-side, post break-in teardown, of multiple engines which were broken in both "by the book" and by an alternate method (driving hard) - and measured component clearances, did surface and metallurgical analysis, then we might have a start at some evidence. A collection of guys on the Internet who say their bike/car/truck/haywagon runs better because they ignored the manufacturers recommendations and ran it hard off the lot, is NOT evidence.

I've rebuilt a bunch of engines. This includes high performance automobile (www.blowngt.com), motorcycle, and airplane engines. Its typical NOT to use the same lubricant on a fresh or rebuilt engine that you would use for normal operation. Normally (at least historically), a straight mineral oil is used for break-in. (Synthetics or typical oils with anti-friction additives are generally too slippery to promote the desired wear required for proper break-in).

I did check with my service center, before I went to the PDC to pick up my car, as to when the first (post break-in) oil change was to be performed. I was anticipating that this was to be done immediately after break-in, which I originally thought was 1200 miles (it turns out the M break-in has three phases, the last of which is completed at 3000 miles). My thought was, bring the car in right after my drive back (900 mile drive + some local driving), get my hitch, doorsills installed, and do the first oil change all at the same service visit... One visit, properly timed, all done...

Anyway, they said there was no 1200/3000 mile oil change required. However, as you understand, I'm also accustomed to getting the break-in oil out of the car as soon as possible... So I needed to do some more research to find out what kind of oil was initially used in the engine...

I specifically asked what type of lubricant they were using for break in while I was at the PDC last week. Although no one could provide a specific answer, Donnie informed me they DID use a special break-in synthetic oil for his race/track car. So educated speculation was that they did NOT use mineral oil, but no one knew exactly what spec lubricant was being used.

The forums are full of debates on what type of aftermarket oil is acceptable for NORMAL operation of the vehicle. Lots of debate on that "simple" subject. However, the topic of break-in lubricants is a much more complicated topic yet. Many manufacturers explicitly state NOT to use a general purpose synthetic oil (i.e. Mobil-One) until post break-in or even later...

The fact of the matter is, I could not determine what type of lubricant was put into the engine at the factory. Its quite possible that they use a specific lubricant just for initial break-in. If I could be sure that I could do an "early" oil change, and use the exact same fluid, I would be all for it. However, if you dumped your oil early, and replaced it with a normal spec oil, and that was NOT what they put in the engine for break-in, then you have prematurely interrupted the normal break-in process. That would NOT be good. Say hello to glazed cylinder walls and bearing surfaces... Once a cylinder wall is glazed, the only effective method to remove the glazing is to break down the engine and re-home the bores. No gasoline or oil additives are going to repair that kind of a problem...

..and if you think a car manufacturer like BMW is skipping a single oil change to save money on a 100K car, then you don't give them much credit for understanding the value of the historical longevity of customer vehicles. I'm quite certain BMW is not going to skip a $50 oil change if it comes anywhere close to tarnishing the perceived engineering of their brand.

Regardless of what all the home grown "Internet Experts" have to say, I'm sticking with the manufacturers recommendations. After all - they seem to build "pretty good" cars...

Empirical: "derived from or relating to experiment and observation rather than theory "

Fact: The original oil in your car is the same oil that BMW recommends. There is nothing special about break-in oil on BMWs (Honda vehicles use a special add in- and even there I'm not sure they still do that).

Fact: The BMW engines built by the factory overseas have MUCH higher tolerances than the ones YOU rebuild.

"..and if you think a car manufacturer like BMW is skipping a single oil change to save money on a 100K car, then you don't give them much credit for understanding the value of the historical longevity of customer vehicles. I'm quite certain BMW is not going to skip a $50 oil change if it comes anywhere close to tarnishing the perceived engineering of their brand. "

Are you serious? Is this your first BMW? I suggest you become a member of the BMW CCA and start reading Roundel (if you are already a member, you saved $1K on your purchase, if you are not, become one now and your next BMW will come with a rebate). Anyway..... yes, BMW now does "lifetime fill" of things like the auto trans and there is lots of history that these things will now only last 100K if you are lucky. Sorry, but the fact is, BMW does LOTS of things to save money on a $50,75, and 100K car. I'm not sure what you think the "brand" stands for, but it is not longevity these days. Read up my friend, lots to learn out there.

PS - have you figured out that it is a truck yet? The IRS has

PPS - why are you asking the PDC what oil was put in your car? As noted, they are contractors. My delivery "specialist" said to me "Wow, you have a spare, you didn't get run flats". Wrong place to ask IMHO.

[UAxDEATH(NYC)]

I did the brake in as per manual, my engine sound right now is like a diesel. I know something wrong with it. I went may times to dealerships (3 states). Only 1 mechanic-supervisor had a balls to admit that something wrong with it by it sound. But according to they manuals its all fine. Car is only 2 years of old. and burning oil like mad. I have followed the instruction. Lesson learned. Never again. Oil has to be changed way often, then what they said. Be cause they are cheap ass company. Who saving a money - YES ON YOUR 100kk+ vehicle.

PS Any time stop by in Brookly NY, I'll let you hear my engine sounds.

[evanevery]

Royal Purple is one of the few oil manufacturers who make an oil specifically for BMW vehicles. Here is what they have to say on their web page (http://www.bimmian.com/Royal-Purple-...for-BMW-E71-X6) for that particular product:

...many manufactures use special engine break in oil that is specially formulated to ensure that specific engine has the proper break in.

specifically

Royal Purple recommends waiting until the manufacturer’s first scheduled oil change in new gasoline engines before upgrading to Royal Purple.

...that's not in the fine print - that's on the web page for the product. ...and these are the guys that are in the business to sell the oil.

I'm all for an early oil change, but only if I can be sure I'm using exactly the same spec lubricant that was designed to be in the engine until the first scheduled oil change. As I have not been able to find out exactly what that spec is, I'll leave in what's there. At least one oil manufacturers (who makes a product specifically for our vehicles) seems to agree. So given Doug Vs BMW & Royal Purple - the choice is pretty easy for me to make...

Unless you have access to the specific fluid being used in the initial fill, I personally don't find much value in going back and forth on this.

Originally Posted by doug_999

Empirical: "PS - have you figured out that it is a truck yet?

Although you seem to enjoy trying to irritate other folks (truck vs car), I would rather have an intelligent discussion regarding the topic at hand. In any case: "A rose by any other name..."

[evanevery]

Originally Posted by doug_999

Fact: The BMW engines built by the factory overseas have MUCH higher tolerances than the ones YOU rebuild.

Truly amazing... I didn't realize you knew what the tolerances were on a Teledyne Continental IO-550N Aircraft engine! I'm so sorry I would even question that. You truly are an expert on everything!

BTW - Unlike automobile engines, aircraft engines are rated for 100% continuous service. So my meager 315 HP aircraft engine is designed to run at 315 HP for an entire flight. In order to do that, they require a very high level of engineering... But I'm sure you already knew that....