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      05-29-2016, 09:43 AM   #1
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Replacing cylinder head cover gasket on S63B44 engine

My right side cylinder head cover gasket seems to be leaking oil. The amount of leaking oil is very small; however, I am afraid that it will get worst with time.

Question #1: Will this get worst with time or will this remain the same as far as the amount of oil leaking, considering location of the leak is not under any pressure?

Question #2: Has anyone attempted to do this yourself? How difficult of a DIY job would this be? BMW dealership is asking $3500 to get this done. Sounds a bit high to me. Any thoughts?

new gasket cost - $29.77 (see image)

any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated
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      05-30-2016, 03:24 PM   #2
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1. If its leaking now change it or it will get worse, it has already failed.

2. $3.5k is a lot but that is the trend with the s63 in general ... I would recommend doing both while your in there DIY shouldn't be too difficult maybe a 5/10 on difficult scale just a bunch of things to take apart to get there.

Should also replace gaskets #5 and O-ring #12 while you in there as well.
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      06-04-2016, 03:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankenm View Post
1. If its leaking now change it or it will get worse, it has already failed.

2. $3.5k is a lot but that is the trend with the s63 in general ... I would recommend doing both while your in there DIY shouldn't be too difficult maybe a 5/10 on difficult scale just a bunch of things to take apart to get there.

Should also replace gaskets #5 and O-ring #12 while you in there as well.
Thank you for the information, Frank. If you have any DIY records from when you have done it, such as images, descriptions and which specific components I will need to remove to get this done, please forward them to me. Thanks again.
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      06-25-2016, 09:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankenm View Post
1. If its leaking now change it or it will get worse, it has already failed.

2. $3.5k is a lot but that is the trend with the s63 in general ... I would recommend doing both while your in there DIY shouldn't be too difficult maybe a 5/10 on difficult scale just a bunch of things to take apart to get there.

Should also replace gaskets #5 and O-ring #12 while you in there as well.
Any special tools are needed for this DIY job? I heard horror stories on removing and re-seating back in a proper way fuel injectors. Any truth in that?
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      06-27-2016, 09:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igorbmwx6 View Post
Any special tools are needed for this DIY job? I heard horror stories on removing and re-seating back in a proper way fuel injectors. Any truth in that?
Your standard e-torx bits and metric socket set should be fine.

The injectors are not that hard at all to get in and out once you do a few... sometimes you just need to wiggle them a bit and they pop out, they are seated in with a bracket so refitting them is no big deal, just need to make sure you put them back in the ones they came out.

I don't think you should have to remove the injectors to change the valve cover gasket though.
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      06-27-2016, 10:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankenm View Post
Your standard e-torx bits and metric socket set should be fine.

The injectors are not that hard at all to get in and out once you do a few... sometimes you just need to wiggle them a bit and they pop out, they are seated in with a bracket so refitting them is no big deal, just need to make sure you put them back in the ones they came out.

I don't think you should have to remove the injectors to change the valve cover gasket though.
Thank you very much for the feedback. Are you sure about the injectors? I was told that for valve cover gasket replacement, injectors have to be removed. It would make this DIY a whole lot easier and faster if the injectors did not have to be removed and then re-installed.
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      06-28-2016, 09:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igorbmwx6 View Post
Thank you very much for the feedback. Are you sure about the injectors? I was told that for valve cover gasket replacement, injectors have to be removed. It would make this DIY a whole lot easier and faster if the injectors did not have to be removed and then re-installed.
Just took a look at them on my truck and it does appear they need to be removed ... sorry for the misleading info.

As long as you are confident in your mechanical skills you can DIY this but it will be a pita with all the shit to take apart just to get the covers off ...
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      06-28-2016, 07:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankenm View Post
Just took a look at them on my truck and it does appear they need to be removed ... sorry for the misleading info.

As long as you are confident in your mechanical skills you can DIY this but it will be a pita with all the shit to take apart just to get the covers off ...
Here is a list of preliminary tasks that BMW recommends. I am still not sure as to why fuel injectors have to be removed, if cover is designed in such a way, where is goes around the fuel injectors. Logically this was designed this way on purpose, so that injectors would not have to be removed for this job. Very confused now.
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      07-02-2016, 12:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankenm View Post
Just took a look at them on my truck and it does appear they need to be removed ... sorry for the misleading info.

As long as you are confident in your mechanical skills you can DIY this but it will be a pita with all the shit to take apart just to get the covers off ...
Does anyone know if the fuel injectors are required to be removed for Valve Cover Gasket replacement DIY or can they be left in place? By the looks of it, Valve Cover is shaped in such a way, where there are two cut-outs specifically made to the shape of the fuel injectors, making me think that they can be left intact. However, I may be wrong. Can someone, who has performed this DIY on a BMW S63 engine chime-in, please.
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      11-23-2020, 06:16 PM   #10
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Just completed and the injectors must be removed. I recently replaced the turbos, all coolant system etc. This is more than a 5/10 due to the reach and availability. Like the air pump, super easy job for folks with tiny hands. Total pia for everyone else.
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      08-19-2021, 06:22 PM   #11
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I just got a quote from my local reputable Indy (Terry Sayther in Austin) of $6,631 to fix the leaking valve cover gaskets on my 2012 X5M.

They said "it's 43 hours of labor and you have to pull the engine". They also said they had never done one of these on an X5M.

It sounds like this is NOT accurate. From this threads, it sounds like others have DIY'd this job. Does anyone have additional information or DIY instructions?
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      08-19-2021, 08:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanFromTucson View Post
I just got a quote from my local reputable Indy (Terry Sayther in Austin) of $6,631 to fix the leaking valve cover gaskets on my 2012 X5M.

They said "it's 43 hours of labor and you have to pull the engine". They also said they had never done one of these on an X5M.

It sounds like this is NOT accurate. From this threads, it sounds like others have DIY'd this job. Does anyone have additional information or DIY instructions?
Engine doesn't have to come off. 43 hours may slightly be on the higher side from a shop perspective, more like 30-35 hours.

I've done it - it is tedious and labor intensive, a lot of things have to come off to get access but can be done. if you plan to do it, you'd need a special socket set for fuel hard lines.
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      04-24-2022, 03:45 PM   #13
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camshaft position sensor question

Quote:
Originally Posted by igorbmwx6 View Post
Here is a list of preliminary tasks that BMW recommends. I am still not sure as to why fuel injectors have to be removed, if cover is designed in such a way, where is goes around the fuel injectors. Logically this was designed this way on purpose, so that injectors would not have to be removed for this job. Very confused now.
Folks -

I'm about 2/3 of the way into the disassembly for this job. There's a sh$%t ton of stuff that has to be removed to get to the covers. I'm doing this as part of a mid-life overhaul...wrapped the turbos and cats, replacing all of the vacuum lines, replacing coolant hoses, adding catch cans to the CCV systems, etc.

My question is in regards to the camshaft position sensor. I don't understand TIS instructions. Can someone explain in more detail what this means? I haven't removed the cover yet (or the sensor) as I'd like to understand this step before proceeding. Thanks.

"Installation note:
It is important to join screw (1) for exact positioning of the camshaft sensors.


Fit cylinder head cover.
Position screw (1).
Release screw (1) by 90°"

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      04-26-2022, 10:38 AM   #14
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Do the Air-Oil-Separators in each valve cover too. They are the #1 cause of oil consumption. Might as well do the Filtered Air Ducts, while at it too.
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      04-26-2022, 08:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1er_vert View Post
Do the Air-Oil-Separators in each valve cover too. They are the #1 cause of oil consumption. Might as well do the Filtered Air Ducts, while at it too.
I'm replacing all of the corrugated breather hose with silicone heater hose and installing a dual catch can setup.

Thanks for the suggestion about the air/oil separators. I just ordered a set of those.
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      07-22-2022, 05:18 PM   #16
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Hi guys need an advice about fuel rails from someone who did this job.
Bank 1 is already open I've removed fuel rail for injector 1-4 completely as one piece now I'm working on bank 2 and the amount of space is very limited. I have the fuel rail loose but I can't manage to pull it out should I just remove each line individually? It will be major pain in the but to loose the connection if even possible due to no space at all. It's the last step missing to pull te cover off.

BTW I didn't have to pull the injectors on bank 1 let's see if I get away with it on bank 2 as well. I'm little bit sceptical.
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      01-06-2023, 12:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pruzina View Post
Hi guys need an advice about fuel rails from someone who did this job.
Bank 1 is already open I've removed fuel rail for injector 1-4 completely as one piece now I'm working on bank 2 and the amount of space is very limited. I have the fuel rail loose but I can't manage to pull it out should I just remove each line individually? It will be major pain in the but to loose the connection if even possible due to no space at all. It's the last step missing to pull te cover off.

BTW I didn't have to pull the injectors on bank 1 let's see if I get away with it on bank 2 as well. I'm little bit sceptical.
Hi Pruzina, how did you manage to make out with the bank 2 valve cover?

Was the main issue that bank 1 had enough clearance to remove the valve cover but bank 1 doesn't? Or was there something special about bank 2 that is preventing the cover from being removed with the injectors still installed?

Thanks!
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      01-06-2023, 05:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatP View Post
Hi Pruzina, how did you manage to make out with the bank 2 valve cover?

Was the main issue that bank 1 had enough clearance to remove the valve cover but bank 1 doesn't? Or was there something special about bank 2 that is preventing the cover from being removed with the injectors still installed?

Thanks!
PhatP
Bank 1 has enough clearance but bank requires a special tool for removing fuel line, I bought it off of ebay for $30 and it helped get the job done.

Check my build journal I might have a photo in there.

Thanks
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      01-06-2023, 07:31 PM   #19
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The issue is not the space to remove the actual valve cover.
You need to remove 8 fuel lines to the injectors as they are on top of the valve cover.
Bank 1 you can remove the whole fuel rail with 4 lines still attached to them or remove individual lines 1-4. That's up to you there is enough space to do it either way.
Bank 2 there is not enough space to remove complete fuel rail you got to remove lines 5-8 one by one. And there is not enough space to see or use regular sockets or wrench. You definitely need special fuel line sockets.

Invest the money and buy special sockets you'll save yourself time and headache.
Ask me how I know.
Set which I bought was not cheap (around $120) but it was worth every penny.
I've already used it multiple times and it was life saver.
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      01-14-2023, 10:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRatedM View Post
Bank 1 has enough clearance but bank requires a special tool for removing fuel line, I bought it off of ebay for $30 and it helped get the job done.

Check my build journal I might have a photo in there.

Thanks

Can you please provide the link to the special tool that you brought for $30? Thanks.
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      01-14-2023, 10:59 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Dannyjcorcione View Post
Can you please provide the link to the special tool that you brought for $30? Thanks.
Here you go

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26605696132...et_ver=artemis
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      01-14-2023, 11:09 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igorbmwx6 View Post
Thank you for the information, Frank. If you have any DIY records from when you have done it, such as images, descriptions and which specific components I will need to remove to get this done, please forward them to me. Thanks again.
Download ista-bmw diagnostic programming software and it has diy with pictures and videos what to do and how to do. How to remove parts, how to install them, what tools to use and so on.
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