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      02-22-2017, 07:51 PM   #1
Frankkao14
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Engine Malfunction

So my 2012 BMW x6 50i decided to go on limp mode while I was on I-95 today....

My car is shaking badly while hitting the gas pedal and also the exhaust sounds like crap. I am assuming its cylinder misfiring.....If thats the case....how much would the dealership cost? I would take it to a local shop but dealership was the closest place I could go near where I was.

Or what other reason could it be?

any info would be appreciated

<I had my N63 CCP about year and a half ago and they did not replace the injectors.>

Thank you
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      02-22-2017, 08:44 PM   #2
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Have you tried turning it off and back on again?
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      02-22-2017, 08:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protecon View Post
Have you tried turning it off and back on again?
Yes....Engine light still there.
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      02-22-2017, 10:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankkao14 View Post
Yes....Engine light still there.
Do you have access to anything that can pull codes?
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      02-23-2017, 11:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankkao14 View Post
So my 2012 BMW x6 50i decided to go on limp mode while I was on I-95 today....

My car is shaking badly while hitting the gas pedal and also the exhaust sounds like crap. I am assuming its cylinder misfiring.....If thats the case....how much would the dealership cost? I would take it to a local shop but dealership was the closest place I could go near where I was.

Or what other reason could it be?

any info would be appreciated

<I had my N63 CCP about year and a half ago and they did not replace the injectors.>

Thank you
You most likely have an ignition coil that went bad. This happened to me 3 or 4 times when I had my 50i. I never paid out of pocket since I was under warranty. It was annoying as hell driving around with the reduced engine power warning and symptoms. Shouldn't be more than a few hundred dollars to replace.
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      02-23-2017, 08:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpie89 View Post
You most likely have an ignition coil that went bad. This happened to me 3 or 4 times when I had my 50i. I never paid out of pocket since I was under warranty. It was annoying as hell driving around with the reduced engine power warning and symptoms. Shouldn't be more than a few hundred dollars to replace.

Yep you are exactly right.

I got my car back today...My ignition coil 7 was bad and I had to replace it at the dealership because that was the only place I could drop of at that time.

so 1 ignition coil + labor = $430



But the good thing is my beast is back! She is pulling strong again
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      02-23-2017, 08:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankkao14 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dpie89 View Post
You most likely have an ignition coil that went bad. This happened to me 3 or 4 times when I had my 50i. I never paid out of pocket since I was under warranty. It was annoying as hell driving around with the reduced engine power warning and symptoms. Shouldn't be more than a few hundred dollars to replace.

Yep you are exactly right.

I got my car back today...My ignition coil 7 was bad and I had to replace it at the dealership because that was the only place I could drop of at that time.

so 1 ignition coil + labor = $430



But the good thing is my beast is back! She is pulling strong again
Glad you got her back!
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      03-20-2017, 08:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankkao14 View Post
Yep you are exactly right.

I got my car back today...My ignition coil 7 was bad and I had to replace it at the dealership because that was the only place I could drop of at that time.

so 1 ignition coil + labor = $430



But the good thing is my beast is back! She is pulling strong again
WOW, $430! I just had the same experience. I floored the X6 trying to pass another vehicle and it went to limp mode. I drove it home and lucky me, I have a computer set up with ISTA. Sure enough, it was ignition coil #7 malfunctioning. $60.00 later, it was fixed. I got the coil from ECS Tuning for $60. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/12138657273/
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      03-22-2017, 08:54 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JMX6V8 View Post
WOW, $430! I just had the same experience. I floored the X6 trying to pass another vehicle and it went to limp mode. I drove it home and lucky me, I have a computer set up with ISTA. Sure enough, it was ignition coil #7 malfunctioning. $60.00 later, it was fixed. I got the coil from ECS Tuning for $60. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/12138657273/

Was it easy to replace on your own?
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      03-23-2017, 12:29 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Frankkao14 View Post
Was it easy to replace on your own?
It was very easy, less than 10 minutes.
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      04-21-2017, 01:35 AM   #11
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Well, I just got another engine malfunction error. The good news is that it happened the day after I got back from a 3K road trip to Texas. The bad news is that it is not as simple as changing the ignition coil. I may start a new thread to document everything I did in case someone inspects their Turbo charge-air coolers(Pic 2) and find what I did, . See new thread for more details(http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1376676) I am posting this here now to see if anyone has seen anything like this before. I found parts from the Wastegate Actuator (Pic 3) inside one of the charge-air cooler. Remember, this is not the reason why I got the engine malfunction light. After inspecting the Wastegate Actuators, they seem to have been broken for a while. Once I saw the parts inside one of the charge-air cooler, I decided to check the other cooler, and sure enough, the same parts were inside of it as well. Picture 4 and 5 shows the actual part that I needed to change. I am still waiting for all the parts including two new Wastegate Actuator and also two new camshaft sensor, just in case. Now, back to the Wastegate Actuator job. This was not an easy DIY. It took me two trips to the auto store and a whole day to figure out the way to remove them. 3 Torx bolts hold them. The first two are not easy to get, but it is durable. The bottom bolt is impossible to get out without taking the whole Turbo Charger off(Pic 6). It was not until I was just so upset that pull on one of them and it just broke (disintegrated) from the bolt. At that time, I was able to get to the last bolt. I broke the second off and took the last bolt out. To put them back, I am not using the same type of screws. I am using one that I can turn with an open end wrench. Part number 07119904524 is the same size and fit (Pic 7).
Picture 1 is the message I received from ISTA, 2A7E.
Picture 2 is the Turbo charge-air cooler with part inside
Picture 3 are the Wastegate Actuators
Picture 4 is the VANOS solenoid valve that needs to be replaced.
Picture 5 is the location of the bank2 VANOS solenoid valve.
Picture 6 is the location of the Wastegate actuators and the impossible bolt (marked by the red line)
Picture 7 is the bolts I am using to replace the unreachable bolts.
Keep in mind, I am still waiting on parts and have not attempted to put everything together. More to follow.

Edit: It is very simple to inspect your charge-air cooler. All you need to do is remove the air hose(Item 4 or 6 from picture 8). Insert a magnet inside and see if you have any parts inside.
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Last edited by JMX6V8; 05-02-2017 at 05:51 PM.. Reason: explain how to inspect cooler
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      04-23-2017, 11:57 AM   #12
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Awesome write-up, thx for posting.
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      05-02-2017, 12:27 AM   #13
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x2 Thanks for the write up.

Any assistance on repair manual resources? saw the pictures you had posted and wondered how you narrowed it down alla DIY.
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      05-02-2017, 11:52 AM   #14
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Awesome write-up, thx for posting.
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      05-02-2017, 12:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vic7780 View Post
wondered how you narrowed it down alla DIY.

If you are referring to the engine malfunction error, I used ISTA to diagnose the problem, but it took a couple of tries. First, I replace the pressure converter (pic 1). The problem was still there. Second, I replaced both bank2 VANOS solenoid valves intake/exhaust (pic 5 on my initial post) and also both VANOS intake/exhaust camshaft (pic 2 here). I didn't have to replace the camshaft, but I did it anyway. That's when I found the parts inside the charge-air cooler, so I replaced Wastegate actuators. I believe when your VANOS valves are getting ready to go out, they will place your engine on limp mode. They will reset when you turn your engine again, but once they are gone the error will not reset and you have to change them. what are your issues? I will help the best I can.
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      05-02-2017, 03:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
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x2 Thanks for the write up.

Any assistance on repair manual resources? saw the pictures you had posted and wondered how you narrowed it down alla DIY.
I don't think Allah had anything to do with this....

Sorry, couldn't help myself LOL
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